Re: Honda CBR 250R

In my experience, the tappet noise is usually when the clearances increase.. but in many cases the clearance decreases and one will not notice any tappet noise(ticking sound) but rather issues like cold start problems, slightly sluggish performance, lower compression. I've seen this myself on a few engines ranging from splendors/activas/ktms.. And neglecting the clearance inspection (and not setting it to spec if required) can cause more issues, especially if the clearances have got tighter (little more clearance is less harmful than too tight of clearance). Tighter clearance may cause the valves to not close fully.

If one wants to keep the bike for a long time in a healthy condition its always recommended to inspect the clearances approx 20-25k km intervals and adjust it to spec if required. Not saying that the clearance will be out of spec, but just an inspection isn't going to break anything. It takes some time/effort to do this, especially on faired bikes and bikes with shims.. so many mechanics avoid doing this !

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Has anybody tried LiquiMoly Engine Oils? (Street 10W30)

I'm running Shell Advanced Ultra, and will undergo another round of Shell Rimula R4 treatment before shifting to fully synthetic Engine Oil again.

I'm open to trying another brands like LiquiMoly, Mobil1 or Amsoil.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

One thing about tapered roller bearings. They dont last a lifetime, and i had to replace mine, sometime ago. It just lasts longer than stock ones.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

I agree on this point completely. They offer great movement though, but eventually they last a wee bit comparatively than a roller cage bearing.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Hello. I recently acquired a 2011 make Honda CBR 250R C-ABS model (previous owner purchased it from dealer in 2013). I found the bike through OLX. The listing said 40k km. Was also listed for 50k. Anyways i took a gamble and contacted the seller. I took a test ride and was impressed by the power it had (although i rode a ktm D200 before, this one didn't scare me as much as the D200 did). I am a student, my home is in hyderabad (TS) and my college is in Guntur(AP). This CBR will stay at my parents' place and i will use it whenever i come back home. Since this pandemic is going on and there is no scope of visiting the campus for the next 3-4 months, i bought it.


These are the pictures the seller sent me before the day of test ride.







The seller said that this one needed shim replacement, as i asked him about the sound coming from the engine side. When i was driving it and hold the clutch to slow down, it sounded like a 10-year old pulsar. That annoyed me a lot. I decided to get it sorted since shim replacement was a common issue on most CBR's crossing 5 yrs.
After exchanging the keys and cash, I got refuelled her at a Shell station (these are very rare in my state, just HP BP and ESSAR are mostly seen). Then later we got back to my home.


A couple of body panels were not in great shape, and one of them was an altogether different color (the red seen on 2014 models), as mine was a candy ruby red. So decided to get that changed that too, and the rear left silver panel, as that was cracked and faded. The windscreen was also set for replacement. So we went to Fortune Honda Begumpet as most people said that that was the ONLY place to find CBR parts. I hunted down the part numbers, and went there to get the parts. I got them on my 3rd visit there, as the CBR technician had seen my bike and brought the parts from the stock room. This shows how great the parts manager guy was. Anyways, we left the bike there and got it after 3 days, as we had given it for a complete servicing, engine oil refill, coolant liquid change, and repumping of front brakes. We decided that we'd change the cone set later, as i won't be using the bike much. So later when i rode it, i found it to be rough as compared to before giving to the ASC.


So my question is, is this normal? Does it have to be driven more to get that smoothness back?
Also, there was a characteristic grunt when the bike was revved before. Now after servicing, it sounds like a wheezing supercharger. Is this normal?


I have another doubt with this. Whenever i'm riding her, i encounter uneven road surfaces. Now that i can feel it right in the handelbar. Somehow it feels uncomfortable to be. Every up and down, I can feel it right there. Does this have anything to do with front fork oil? Should I get it replaced?


Please note that I'm a beginner rider. The only experience i had on 2 wheels are my dad's Passion X PRO and my mom's Maestro. And i'm new to this forum space. Wanted to post this on Team-BHP actually as it has a better outreach there, but their site takes forever to recognise my id and password. So i'll be posting the same there also.

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For the Moderators: Please post this in the appropriate thread if it's not supposed to be here.The main CBR thread was too cluttered.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

CBR by default uses a soft sprung suspension, and it absorbs all the undulations pretty well. Considering the age of the bike, it's high time you replace your fork oil to stock one which would definitely improve the suspension characteristics of the motorcycle. Low, bad or crappy fork oil would mean the ride quality is rough. Secondly, a faulty coneset too would make the bike behave irrationally when turning or when the bike self corrects, get your fork oil and coneset replaced, they make life much better when riding a motorcycle.

Secondly, make sure your chain sprocket kit is good. Being a 40k almost 9 year old bike, your chain sprocket can be worn even though the bike rides good ( well, it's a Honda, it will run no matter what) Worn out chain sprocket kit will cause vibrations, do get that checked. Replacing all the fluids won't mean a thing, if the parts themselves are worn. Start out with a thorough mechanical check rather than being cosmetically oriented.

Thirdly, the CBR has a supercharger-ish whine to the engine, especially during downshifts and engine braking, that's the characteristic engine sound, nothing to worry about, and so is the grunt. A new air filter would help the bike breathe better and also helps improve mileage and performance. Just to add to it, make sure your front and rear brake pads, your clutch plates are too inspected.

Hope it helps!

Cheers!
VJ

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Hi! Thank you for responding on such a short notice. I'll let you know the condition of the bike after getting it thoroughly inspected by the mechanic.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Hi
Does anyone knows about a trusted CBR mechanic in Delhi-NCR?

Re: Honda CBR 250R

There's one guy in Faridabad Honda who is the best (imo) when it comes to CBRs. Just visit the service center and ask for Umender Kumar.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

There are many honda showrooms in faridabad. Which one are you talking about bro?

Re: Honda CBR 250R

"Faridabad Honda" is the name of the showroom. It is in NIT-5.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

My CBR250R ABS has been lying idle for almost 8 months because of lockdown. The first time I tried to start it, it started in a single crank and shut off soon after. I tried to push start but to no avail. So, I tried to charge the battery. The battery didn't charge anymore. I also checked the fuel - it still has the smell of petrol but not as strong as fresh petrol. There is about 3-3.5 litres petrol in the tank (maybe) because the last bar blinks.

Today, I got a new Amaron battery and tried to crank it 2-3 times. Didn't start.

Then, I drained the old fuel (but a little remained) and filled with 4 litres of fresh petrol. Took 6-7 cranks but the bike started. I kept it revving for about 2 minutes at 3-4k rpm and a burning smell with little bit of white smoke came from the headlight area, so I turned off the engine. The local mechanic said that most likely that happened because of "rich consumption" initially by the FI (i.e. more fuel, less air). Can anyone please clarify if that is actually the case?

After about 10 minutes, I filled up air immediately (rear tyre was at 10 psi and front at 5 psi) and took for a short 3-4 km ride. The cooling system seemed fine because temp bar didn't go above 3. But, I think I will still have to check the coolant and radiator to make sure that they weren't the reason for the white smoke.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Update: I took my bike to service center and got another problem inspected. I had got my bike transported via Agarwal Packers & Movers and when I unpacked it, I noticed the bike leans way too much while parking on the side stand.

I thought the side stand was gone but when I took it to the Honda service center, they noticed that the chassis is bent - due to loading heavy stuff on top of the bike while transporting.



The mechanic suggested to heat up that part of the chassis and straighten it a bit. But, I am not sure if that part will be able to sustain the load of the bike in the future. The other solution is a new chassis which will cost Rs 13k (10k part cost + 3k labour) - I may be able to claim insurance and get a new chassis since my insurance covers damages over road transport.

Has anyone faced a similar issue before? What should I do?

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Hello guys,

Im facing coolant leakage on the cbr,can somebody confirm if any part is missing here,as when opened it was empty.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

If it's the side stand mount that has been bent, yes you can heat up the part, and mend it well as your mechanic suggested. Unless your bike chassis is bent such that the bike doesn't run true, then you have no choice except to replace the chassis. Yours is just a side stand mount bend, that can be easily mended, provided the job is done well. No need of chassis replacement. Just make sure

Always better to replace the fuel after prolonged halts, especially after this lockdown. Though the fuel smells "petrolish" it might have probably lost its calorific value for it to crank. Hence after you replaced the fuel, the bike fired up. The white smoke that came from the headlight area can be something burning on the exhaust or just water condensation evaporating after a prolonged start. Do replace your brake fluid, radiator coolant and engine oil which I'd strongly recommend. Try to fire up the bike every alternate day if you are not riding helps keeps the engine itself lubricated.

Hope it helps!


Oh my! That's the thermostat coupling. You're supposed to have a spring loaded thermostat inside. Was it empty when you opened it? It means someone when installing the thermostat has forgot to install it on your bike. Yikes! Without which the coolant can and will leak from the thermostat housing and your bike won't heat up faster. A thermostat helps an engine warm up and cool whenever necessary.

Cheers!
VJ