FOR WATER PUMP

when the engine is cold open the radiator cap and let the bike run if you see a fall in the coolant level then congrats your water pump is working. if not then here lies your problem.
Do this step first if the level falls then move to the next step.

FOR THERMOSTAT AND FAN
Let the bike run for 10-15 mins in standstill if the fan runs then the fan and thermostat are fine.
If the fan fails to run then do the below-mentioned thing.

JUST FAN
[ATTACH]219860[/ATTACH]

Disconnect the red marked clip when the bike is running the fan will switch on.
If the fan switches on then your fan n relay are fine. Your thermostat is junk most probably.
Try to take the thermostat out and put it in water and boil it. At a certain temperature ~100 degrees celsius you will hear a click. If you hear the click your thermostat is fine.
Move to the next step if you hear a click.

FOR RADIATOR FAN RELAY

I don't know about present R15 but if your R15 is before 2015 model the open the rear seat and take out the rubber covering. locate the ECU and on the left side of the ECU, there will be 2 blue color boxes. Those are the relays. The top one is starter relay as far as i remember. The bottom one is the radiator fan relay. swap the relays with each other and try to start the vehicle. If it doesn't start then the relay is at fault.


I am sure in your case, the thing which is faulty is the radiator fan relay. Get it checked. costs 80 bucks to replace.

P.S. Do all these things with a cold engine. With a hot engine instead of checking coolant or water pump etc, you will mostly have to check with a doctor afterwards for burns and scalds if hot coolant spills or boils over. Lastly, I am not responsible for mishaps of any kind that may arise due to negligence.

CHEERS

*Posting from R15S thread. Not spamming, we just have a larger audience here*

Update on the headlight bulb of my R15S :-

I didn't really get a lot of time recently however today I went ahead to the main city area(Nana Peth) to look for some replacements of possibly all the bulbs.

Replaced the parking lights with 2 normal white wedge LEDs, the illumination is good and it can be seen from a good distance. So these are the DRL for me.

Couldn't find any LED tail lamp alternative for the kind of buld type R15S has, but I found a same filament type bulb of 12v 10/5W so I installed it. The OEM one is of 12v 21/10W, so I think I'm saving some 10/5 watts there(STOP/NORMAL).

Also got 4 LED parking indicators, replaced all 4 turn indicators with those LEDs myself.

Now, I got one 12v 60/55W OSRAM BILUX H4 type bulb(P43t, 64193). The OEM ones are same OSRAM BILUX HS1 12V but 35/35W, thus I thought of keeping the same manufacturer and H4 is a direct fit to HS1. Costed me 100 bucks only.

I replaced it myself, didn't go out today as I type so can't really tell the difference as of now. However my query is(pardon me if this has been asked before) -

- Am I saving enough amount of power with the parking/turn LEDs and smaller tail lamp I just replaced with that I can use that for 55w?

- I'll be using that new 55w bulb in low beam and I in city ride only with low beam(35w high beam will be only for either flashing or highways at night), still I'm concerned that will it have any adverse effect on the stock battery or the reflector of R15S?

Thanks in advance.

Thanks a lot bro.. I appreciate for the detailed answer.. Once again thank you so much...

The R15-S has a single phase system( read cost cutting) and i dont know the charging rate of the stator. In case of 2008-2014 models(3-Phase systems) it was ~160w at 5000rpm . I did all the jugaad you mentioned 3 years back and used 2 55w lights and the battery charge dropped like a stone even when the revs were above 5000rpm. Then i used 55W in low beam n 35 w in high beam. It was fine. Now the reason behind narrating this case is that the stock reflectors of R15 are awesomely horrible especially the low beam. Even if you plonk 55W lights the intensity will increase but the spread is abysmal. In my opinion not worth it.
Still if you want to go ahead and try then i dont think any issue will related to battery discharge. Avoid using 2X 55 w whatever the case may be.

CHEERS

That was really helpful man. I didn't know about single phase system of the R15 S. So does the version 2. 0 also has the same single phase system?
I'll just be riding the bike for some time tonight to see how much of a difference does the new bulb make. And I agree on the reflector design part, its horrible when it comes to spread.
Thanks a bunch buddy.

Even I want my baby's headlight to be changed! The stock one just spreads the light on the corners of the road but never on the middle of the road!
So please suggest me some good ideas! 🙂
Note: Mine is Version 2.0 2016 model!

All the R15 v2 whose chassis number starts from 2FB are single phase and with O2 sensor with a different wiring harness, ECU etc. Even the rectifier are mounted at a different place than the v1 and early model V2s

CHEERS

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Go for good quality projectors with 4300K hids or go for Led lights. In case you are using Leds then the same spread issue will arise because the reflector is still the same.
In short until and unless you want to risk going for projectors(which i wont suggest) there is not much you can do for good illumination.

CHEERS

Thanks for the suggestion bro!
And is there anything to consider about the battery as it's only 3.5Amps?

When I check with the fan motor relay, I find that one of the wire(the red wire) was disconnected. So I connect that wire to the relay, now the problem starts. When I switch off the ignition switch(the main key switch) the fan starts running. And when I switch on the ignition switch it stops. I don't know what's happening. Do u have any idea?

Take the battery out, take the foam padding from the battery holder box and put in a 5 ah amaron battery. Won't help much but its good to have more capacity.

CHEERS

Also do anyone know the price of coolant temperature sensor for r15v2. Actually I broke it.

Bro can you see the brown and white wires in the relay that acts as the trigger switch for the relay. The red wire supplies +12v always. The blue wire connects to the radiator fan positive pole. The negative pole of the radiator fan is grounded.

What do you mean by 'Won't help much'? You say that the stock battery can handle the headlight upgrades?