Stalling has nothing to do with the bike's service, the short revving engine is a characteristic of duke, one just have to keep the revs high if the bike is not to be stalled.
Riding the duke in between the speeds of 80 - 120 is pure fun!

I will freely admit to not being familiar with the various engine oils available here (at least not yet), but I would like to pass along some wisdom on that subject that I have accumulated over 30 years of motorcycles and building engines:

First: Synthetic oil is wonderful stuff, and can dramatically increase fuel mileage while reducing engine wear to practically nil. HOWEVER, every engine builder I have ever worked with has said the same thing: Don't use synthetic in the engine until you've put at least 2000-3000 MILES (so, about 5000km) on it. This is because synthetic does such a good job of lubricating that it can prevent the last bits of wear-in from happening, particularly with regard to piston rings, and on motorcycles also wear in the transmission. Petroleum-based oil has so many irregular molecules in it that it allows more wear on those important parts.

Second, regarding grade i.e. 15w50, 20w50, 10w40, 5w50 etc. The numbers there refer to the "weight" i.e. viscosity of the oil. Oils with two numbers are known as "multigrade" and behave like several different viscosities of oil, depending on the temperature. The first number is the "cold" weight, and the second is the "hot" weight". NB you used to be able to buy single grade oil, which was usually 30 or 40-weight, but that is rare now. The important thing about oil is that you want it to stay "thick" enough to lubricate and shield the moving parts inside the motor even when hot. Imagine cooking oil for a moment. When cold, it is pretty syrupy, but when hot thins out considerably. If it thins too much, it won't coat the pan and your food sticks. It also starts burning if it gets too thin. Same with motor oil. You want it to be thin enough to quickly coat the inside of the motor when you start it, but stay thick enough to keep lubricating once the motor reaches operating temperature. Here in India, where the daytime temps are so high, and night temps rarely drop below 20C, 15w50 or 20w50 is fine. Those of you west of Delhi, or in South India, will see better lubrication from the 20w50, while those in North India can get away with 15w50. Up in the hills you might even be able to manage 10w40. I know in the US, we could even get 5w50 and what Mobil Oil called 1w40, which was a super-synthetic that flowed almost like water, and was good for very cold climates.

Third: Use motorcycle oil only. This is probably obvious to everyone, but needs to be said anyway. Motorcycle oils have special additives that work with the wet clutch. Since the transmission and clutch run in the same oil as the piston and crank bearings, you need something to keep them lubricated while still allowing the clutch to maintain friction.

Shubz,
How are the soft compound tyres behaving in the rains?

Does it get you jittery? (Apart from the fact that you are riding a new bike in its first monsoon )

I drove the bike a bit on wet roads. The braking is no problem as long as the tyres are clean. The bike skids badly if it has mud stuck on the tyre. So we need to be sure not to drive over mud during the rainy season(I mean the habit of getting off the road to the sides to overtake vehicles in signals).

Also my bike was out in the rain for a while and a little water seeped in through the gap for the rear seat..............it was a little wet inside. I am worried as thats where the battery is!!!!

I drove the bike a bit on wet roads. The braking is no problem as long as the tyres are clean. The bike skids badly if it has mud stuck on the tyre. So we need to be sure not to drive over mud during the rainy season(I mean the habit of getting off the road to the sides to overtake vehicles in signals).

Also my bike was out in the rain for a while and a little water seeped in through the gap for the rear seat..............it was a little wet inside. I am worried as thats where the battery is!!!!

Not sure if this has been shared earlier.. here's the link to Performance stores KTM Duke related stuff..

Performance Racing Store. Search

A quick question, what's the real function of the Cotton Reels ?

Not sure if this has been shared earlier.. here's the link to Performance stores KTM Duke related stuff..

Performance Racing Store. Search

A quick question, what's the real function of the Cotton Reels ?

connected to the swing arm, they provide support for paddock stands when the bike is lifted for service purpose. Though they are not necessary (that's why I don't have them) as the stands that the service guys use support the swing arm directly and not a particular point on the swing arm.

Do you have the tyre hugger on or have you removed it?

connected to the swing arm, they provide support for paddock stands when the bike is lifted for service purpose. Though they are not necessary (that's why I don't have them) as the stands that the service guys use support the swing arm directly and not a particular point on the swing arm.

even i have problem with bike stalling, i have ridden my bike only in city where max speed can be 30-35 km/hr during cornering or turn i usually slow down and have faced problem of stalling in mid of road when speed at 3rd gear falls below 8 or 10 (though i ve not check the RPM) and bike stops with rear tyre skits toward left. ......

500km done.
should i change the oil to flush out the metalic substances and run another 500, then give for 1st service and MOTUL oil, or should i continue to 1000km for the 1st service and change to MOTUL oil directly?

saj*

Bro, the bike tends to stall when u slow down especially at corners, because the engine braking is very high and speed reduces quickly.
Best thing to do at this point to pull the clutch and down shift a gear or 2. Once you finish cornering (in city conditions), u can slightly open the throttle and slowly release the clutch, it will take of smoothly, try it, needs getting used to it though.

.............
Parking light lamp:

Mine will required to be replaced soon as the lamp has turned black.

Oh Thanks R-series ... Posted the question in the India DUke Owners group in FB.. we were of the opinion that it acts like a crash guard and protect the swing arms . will let them know

while servicing the duke i asked the service manger about the paddock stand..
he told me that bajaj is working on small compact stand. which can help the duke owners to do self servicing like cleaning and lubrication of chain.

and it might cost around Rs. 1000-1200

I will thank GOD and obviousy them if they come up with this. However, I think in this thread only, I have seen posts for low cost orange color paddock stand manufactured and sold by someone. The cost was around 1300, I guess.