+1 to the bold part above. Nice that you are riding the way the duke has to be ridden, keep posting .

AFAIK many ASC people say that changing headlights entirely would void the warranty even though the internal circuitry remains same... Couldnt get a reason from them... they always stick to the golden sentence... MODS ON WARRANTY GONE!!!

Please correct me if i am WRONG!!!

I guess you can change it back before taking it to the ASC... as long as you don't visit them once in a week or so

u cant keep on changing the wiring of this hid kit very often as its tedious job and take sometime and every time he visit the SVC he cant do it
,
even i was said no playing with the bike electrical's with hid's or horns as it'l void warranty

Ok, got a confirmation that it is indeed Soft compound! Apologies for the distraction!

sir can you please post the pictures of headlamp. Any other mod you have done?

even i have problem with bike stalling, i have ridden my bike only in city where max speed can be 30-35 km/hr during cornering or turn i usually slow down and have faced problem of stalling in mid of road when speed at 3rd gear falls below 8 or 10 (though i ve not check the RPM) and bike stops with rear tyre skits toward left. i need to kill the engine to restarts and also gears become tight n its hard to change. its quite embarrassing in middle of the road with such a good bike which doesn't starts......

My comments and questions In Bold.

+
Only option available to clean and lube the chain is mentioned above by calvin. However, I have done the same thing not taking any help from anyone(Not that I tried to avoid any help; but couldn't find some ). Kept the bike in side stand. Sat down near the bike, cleaned and lubed the exposed part; then tried to pull the bike towards me with my Muscle Power and when the rear tire is off the road tried rotating the wheels. Without any help it took me a little more time than normal. But again this process is quite tedious. I'll certainly check for any aftermarket paddock in the local shops.

+
It's true that they will not honor the warranty if you do any kind of mod with horn/hid. What I guess is even if you don't touch the internal circuit and install your device with seperate wiring, they still won't listen to you, coz it'll be using the same battery that's connected with other electrical parts and internal wiring.

Could you please post the pics of the mod and any details/cost about this? Also have you checked with the SVC, whether they find it OK and will not terminate the warranty?

I would be haapy to clock some 1500 KMs before applying the "run it like you stole it" method but still 1000 Kms sane riding will do.

+
Me too have ridden it in rain today. Although I haven't tried hard braking(However, as both the disks were wet, so no actual 'hard braking' was possible) but I didn't find any issue with the tire grip. Will check it throughly next time it rains .

+1 bro for the above. I admit that I am new to a liquid cooled high performance high revving high compression ratio bike. But are all these type of bikes(of +- similar displacement) from engine heating point of view behave similarly? Pardon me bro, but I sometimes think(though I am not an expert) the engine heat is normal but may be the system/design responsible to cool this and to dissipate the heat faster is not that efficient.

Me too confirmed that, but as usual, late to post/reply.

Also Shubz, could you please check with your SVC about the handling problem(problem with the Racer, I was told here) I explained earlier? That problem is still not resolved fully, though my SVC told me that they will replace the 'Racer' if required.

500km done.
should i change the oil to flush out the metalic substances and run another 500, then give for 1st service and MOTUL oil, or should i continue to 1000km for the 1st service and change to MOTUL oil directly?



saj*

No update on tank cover yet Shubz.

Some other things I would like to mention in this thread.
Regarding overheating "inside the city", IMHO, this is just a perception. During highway rides also(upon hard throttle inputs), the temperature bar shows similar levels. Just that because of blowing wind you won't feel the heat as much as you will when riding in bumper to bumper traffic.

Any electrical modification, and warranty for electricals is at risk. One reason why ASCs don't encourage mods is, they can't keep track of what you connect to those open ends. The specification does matter a lot. But this said, warranty is still under the discretion of ASC personnel after a mod. They may or may not accept.

Yup bro it can be really embarrasing..

__________________________________________________ _____


BTW Some chap did an ECU mod and posted it on the FB page..

Is he on this thread by any chance?

And does anyone know about Xenon Headlights for motorcycle?

Bro, the bike tends to stall when u slow down especially at corners, because the engine braking is very high and speed reduces quickly.
Best thing to do at this point to pull the clutch and down shift a gear or 2. Once you finish cornering (in city conditions), u can slightly open the throttle and slowly release the clutch, it will take of smoothly, try it, needs getting used to it though.

Regarding oil

I will freely admit to not being familiar with the various engine oils available here (at least not yet), but I would like to pass along some wisdom on that subject that I have accumulated over 30 years of motorcycles and building engines:

First: Synthetic oil is wonderful stuff, and can dramatically increase fuel mileage while reducing engine wear to practically nil. HOWEVER, every engine builder I have ever worked with has said the same thing: Don't use synthetic in the engine until you've put at least 2000-3000 MILES (so, about 5000km) on it. This is because synthetic does such a good job of lubricating that it can prevent the last bits of wear-in from happening, particularly with regard to piston rings, and on motorcycles also wear in the transmission. Petroleum-based oil has so many irregular molecules in it that it allows more wear on those important parts.

Second, regarding grade i.e. 15w50, 20w50, 10w40, 5w50 etc. The numbers there refer to the "weight" i.e. viscosity of the oil. Oils with two numbers are known as "multigrade" and behave like several different viscosities of oil, depending on the temperature. The first number is the "cold" weight, and the second is the "hot" weight". NB you used to be able to buy single grade oil, which was usually 30 or 40-weight, but that is rare now. The important thing about oil is that you want it to stay "thick" enough to lubricate and shield the moving parts inside the motor even when hot. Imagine cooking oil for a moment. When cold, it is pretty syrupy, but when hot thins out considerably. If it thins too much, it won't coat the pan and your food sticks. It also starts burning if it gets too thin. Same with motor oil. You want it to be thin enough to quickly coat the inside of the motor when you start it, but stay thick enough to keep lubricating once the motor reaches operating temperature. Here in India, where the daytime temps are so high, and night temps rarely drop below 20C, 15w50 or 20w50 is fine. Those of you west of Delhi, or in South India, will see better lubrication from the 20w50, while those in North India can get away with 15w50. Up in the hills you might even be able to manage 10w40. I know in the US, we could even get 5w50 and what Mobil Oil called 1w40, which was a super-synthetic that flowed almost like water, and was good for very cold climates.

Third: Use motorcycle oil only. This is probably obvious to everyone, but needs to be said anyway. Motorcycle oils have special additives that work with the wet clutch. Since the transmission and clutch run in the same oil as the piston and crank bearings, you need something to keep them lubricated while still allowing the clutch to maintain friction.

This is brilliant!!! finally some solid stuff. Guess for mumbai 20w50 will work

Wouldnt it be better to suspect tight valves or lean AFR or low idle.
Cause when we slow down we downshift, and when we do that the RPM rises hence theres no chance of engine stalling. And another fact is that the idle should go below 1~1.5k when riding for the engine to die. And am sure no one would be silly enough to bring the RPM that low in any gear without engaging the clutch.

Taking off the gas while cornering will reduce traction at the rear and hence cause a lowside, its better to plan ahead of the corner, do everything you need to do before the corner i.e braking, shifting etc, and once you enter the corner *Read my signature.*

Now another pointer to note is that, the moment you downshift to overtake while riding passively, is the exact moment you should come to the understanding that you're not doing it right. Always be in the powerband, cause in reality its safer to run out of harms way than to stop and face it.