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Pulsar 200 NS Owners Review and Experiences
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keep it on or below 4k rpm.. at all gears.. you would reach a speed of 55-56kmph in 6th gear at 4k rpm...you can give short bursts to touch 5k but do not continue to ride at higher rpm ..Originally posted by NitSpeed200 View PostATGATT! There are many wonderful riders/drivers out there who would intrude in your riding space without any notice. Be prepared. Stay Safe.
My True Wanderers Blog Entry :
www.truewanderers.in/travelogues/entry/144.html
True Wanderers Final Ride :
http://http://truewanderers.in/trave...inalist/6.html
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I have faced this in other bikes also ,try slowing down enough and then shift down .Originally posted by faffy View Postthis is what i do, diownshifting in single clutch pull, but sometimes the gear lever becomes totally free and then i have no choice but to let the next lower gear get engaged and then again downshift... whats the issue here? in my Karizma this never used to happen...
sigpic < --BENGALURU-- >
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I tried half clutch pull method as you suggested.. and it worked as a charm..Originally posted by csajal View PostI guess I've been lucky with the "Khat" till now
!! But seriously people, you won't get the "Khat" sound with this technique if things are done correctly.
No false neutrals, lever not getting stuck anywhere.. not becoming free while downshifting.. and no Khat Khat

My left thumb also hurts after long rides..Originally posted by Red_Redemption View Post
The complaints i have are left thumb (indicators) and right ankle (brake - here, my riding style might be wrong)
Do what @csajal suggested , pull the clutch 2/3rd instead of fully pulling the clutch.. Previously i also faced this problem of lever becoming totally free and while downshifting getting stuck at neutral , and not able to come down to 1st gear even after 3-4 tries... but after following his method no problems at all..Originally posted by faffy View Postthis is what i do, diownshifting in single clutch pull, but sometimes the gear lever becomes totally free and then i have no choice but to let the next lower gear get engaged and then again downshift... whats the issue here? in my Karizma this never used to happen...
ATGATT! There are many wonderful riders/drivers out there who would intrude in your riding space without any notice. Be prepared. Stay Safe.
My True Wanderers Blog Entry :
www.truewanderers.in/travelogues/entry/144.html
True Wanderers Final Ride :
http://http://truewanderers.in/trave...inalist/6.html
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Phew.....Originally posted by Shibadip View PostAfter all the hue and cry, due to the long and saturated period of remaining bikeless, FINALLYYYYYY I got my NS yesterday evening.
Beware guys, coz a verrryyyyy long Ownership experience will be up by evening. Till then enjoy another teaser



at last... Shibadip got it..!!!
Really good to know that bro..
ah ya waiting for the review.sigpicUSED IN PAST: Ct100, Victor, Xcd 135For a true motorcyclist, the straight portions of the roads exist just to take him from one turn to the next!
CURRENT: PULSAR 200 NS
FUTURE: No plan
DREAM BIKES: Ducati multistrada, Yamaha R6, KTM Super Duke
Catch me on FACEBOOK
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Originally posted by Shibadip View PostAfter all the hue and cry, due to the long and saturated period of remaining bikeless, FINALLYYYYYY I got my NS yesterday evening.
Beware guys, coz a verrryyyyy long Ownership experience will be up by evening. Till then enjoy another teaser

BTW, Biswajit is the name of the dealer....
Short update No doubt on the long list of positive features of the bike, but I'm having some trouble adjusting my riding style with the bike.. however was too exited last night to make some sensible adjustments. Will try it today, and then will add it to the report. Also since I did'nt opted for teflon coating/ other polishing, so a nice bathing and polishing session is due toady..
Have lots to share and ask.... But my mind is constantly dancing on Salman's DINKACHIKA track
Congrats on the ride buddy
EnJoY Happy miles ahead
sigpicBengaluru NakedWolves
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Thanks for explaining in detail. However, the picture I have posted is not wrong. To cut the long story short, in essence, the AFR screw on Pulsar 200NS works exactly the opposite of Pulsar 220. I think this should make things clear.Originally posted by leodj29 View PostWARNING: the following post might be offtopic but it is of vital importance to everyone here.
I rarely post in here since the bike doesn't reach my country until at least mid 2013 but in this case I consider it necessary to post and in it is to correct you on the AFR explanation from your picture.
First I want to say is that I know I'm a newish member here and going by what I have read (the entire thread) some people in here tend to disagree or have no trust whatsoever on informational posts from newbies if you want to call us that, it is understandable though so now to the matter at hand to prevent people from messing up their AFR:
Unless the P200NS is employing an outdated carb (which I doubt) then what you have shown in the picture, i.e. clockwise for a richer AFR and counterclockwise for a leaner AFR is completely and totally WRONG, now comes the disagreement and distrust with the newbie but hold your horses fellow riders, here comes the explanation:
In older carbs the AFR screw used to be located nearer to the rear of the carb, hence towards the air filter, controlling the air intake to the venturi of the carb. For those cases what you say is TRUE since turning it clockwise will allow less air thus making the mixture richer and leaner if you turn it counterclockwise.
However in newer carbs like the mikuni UCAL in the P220 the AFR screw is located towards the front of the carb, therefore closer to the cylinder admission and hence controlling the amount of fuel in the mixture, so in these cases if you turn it clockwise you are decreasing the amount of fuel and therefore making the mixture lean, by contrary if you turn it counterclockwise you are allowing more fuel into the mixture therefore making it richer.
If your bike is cold (has been off for 6+ hours) and you turn it clockwise till it closes completely you'll notice that when you start the bike it will stall inmediately if you don't rev it, the reason being that the mixture has been made as lean as possible.
Now that being said I hope that people will not mess up their AFR by doing the wrong procedure and as a bonus I also have info about the shock preload/seat height controversy that will leave it as clear as possible for everyone but I won't post that to avoid backlash for contradicting a respected member on two topics of the same post so only if you want me to post it then I will.
Cheers, ride safe and enjoy your machines.
Regarding the suspension, I'm not sure about it. But I really need to check and measure!Been There, Done That; Better!
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Thanks a lot for the appreciation of the info and I know you're totally cool mate, just making sure hehe. Now as I stated in my previous comment, it might be right depending on the kind of carb and since I have not had the pleasure to see a P200NS in flesh I can't confirm which kind of carb setup does it have however you lucky owners can and in my humble opinion should check it before modifying the AFROriginally posted by banerjee View PostFeel free to share any information with us, newbie or oldie information is always beneficial, moderator never said that a newbie can't spread an information, nobody backlashes anyone, we indians are mighty cool
Coming on to the afr screw, when everyone is doing exactly opposite then how they are achieving their desire.
What information do you have about shock preload?
Another variable to consider is that you in India might have a different way to define what is lean and what is rich, what we (south americans and north americans as well) call lean is a mixture where there is more air than necessary for the amount of fuel in the mixture thus making it harder for a cold engine to start without issues, in the other hand what we call rich is a mixture where there is less air than necessary for the amount of fuel in the mixture thus making it easier for a cold engine to start without issues, however when it is extremely rich the FE will drop like a fly, there will be a loss of performance when the engine is hot, carbon deposits on the cylinder, valves, spark plugs and piston as well as idling issues where the needle is not going to stay at a stable rpm rate and will hesitate to return to the normal rpm after revving the engine while a extremely lean mixture will give you kick ass FE, rev faster when hot but will most likely cause overheating and excessive wear of the prior mentioned parts of the engine.
I apologize if my previous post offended anyone and for the length of my posts but I prefer to explain myself as clear as possible, maybe a teachers habit
EDIT: Rahul already claryfied the matter a couple of posts back so, my bad, just intended to make things clear and succeeded.
As for the shock stiffness vs seat height I read is already been settled by the input from Rohan200NS so lets just add that the seat height is negligibly increased, it's just that a stiffer setting prevents the bike from sinking down when you sit on it, therefore giving you the impression that the height has been increased by a lot but if you measure it with a measuring tape while off the bike you'll see little to not difference in height whatsoever.
Cheers fellow riders.Last edited by leodj29; 08-30-2012, 02:59 PM.
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it is the gear shifter spring's fault .. get it replaced if the gear shifts are not giving you any return feedback ( lever going completely loose ) while downshifting .. i consider r15's gears shifts as the benchmark .. the best according to me for sporty riding style .. unicorn's gear shifts according to me are the best for commuter riding style ..Originally posted by faffy View Postthis is what i do, diownshifting in single clutch pull, but sometimes the gear lever becomes totally free and then i have no choice but to let the next lower gear get engaged and then again downshift... whats the issue here? in my Karizma this never used to happen...
you need to get the chain cleaned,set and lubed every 500kms .. during monsoon it has to be done more often .. ns uses an O-ring chain so never run it dry .. you would have to clean and lube the chain after 2-3 rides in rain and slush ...Originally posted by sagar_phoenix View PostI can hear more noise than usual ( I think from the chain )after first service. Is this normal? Can anyone clarify this?
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We use the same definition here in India as well.Originally posted by leodj29 View PostAnother variable to consider is that you in India might have a different way to define what is lean and what is rich, what we (south americans and north americans as well) call lean is a mixture where there is more air than necessary for the amount of fuel in the mixture thus making it harder for a cold engine to start without issues, in the other hand what we call rich is a mixture where there is less air than necessary for the amount of fuel in the mixture thus making it easier for a cold engine to start without issues, however when it is extremely rich the FE will drop like a fly, there will be a loss of performance when the engine is hot, carbon deposits on the cylinder, valves, spark plugs and piston as well as idling issues where the needle is not going to stay at a stable rpm rate and will hesitate to return to the normal rpm after revving the engine while a extremely lean mixture will give you kick ass FE, rev faster when hot but will most likely cause overheating and excessive wear of the prior mentioned parts of the engine.
Nice and precise explanation.Originally posted by leodj29 View PostAs for the shock stiffness vs seat height I read is already been settled by the input from Rohan200NS so lets just add that the seat height is negligibly increased, it's just that a stiffer setting prevents the bike from sinking down when you sit on it, therefore giving you the impression that the height has been increased by a lot but if you measure it with a measuring tape while off the bike you'll see little to not difference in height whatsoever.
.sigpicRelationships change, evolve, and it goes deep.
Only thing I can say - "The storm is coming"
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To cut the long story short on the confusion, this is what happens inside a general motorcycle gear box -

The violet input shaft is from the engine. This violet input shaft is not the engine, the crank shaft is actually separated from the input shaft by the clutch.
The Blue gear in the picture above attached to the input shaft is turning a gray gear and this setup is currently in neutral and the motorcycle is stationary to start with.
The green cylinder is a barrel shaft that's rotated by a ratchet mechanism (what you're actually moving when you raise or lower your shift lever)
As the animation rotates that shaft rotates and moves the fork. As the fork moves it pushes the gold colored disk (with holes in it) toward the gear (with dogs that fit into those holes) and drive is engaged.
Once engaged the yellow output shaft turns and the motorcycle is in motion.

The pegs or dogs on the gear are what latches on the holes of the clutch plate to engage the gear.
From the above diagram it should be very clear that how the gear actually operates and what kind of stress the entire system is put to. So, basically as long we are giving time to the clutch plate hole and the gear dogs to fit in properly by matching the transmission speed with the engine speed and making the shift quick enough to make the transition between resultant speed of the gear and the rear wheel through the final drive, there would be no harm to the gear assembly.
The way one engages the gear actually and really depends on how the gear box in constructed, and in most of the sports motorcycles, it's designed to be released quickly, but only after we match the transmission speed with the engine speed.
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