I have a 14T front sprocket from my old Honda Stunner.

If anyone wants it, he can collect it from my home in Mumbai (Borivali).

Just drop me a mail @ [email protected] if interested.

I will give it to anyone who approaches me first free of cost

I own a Pulsar 150 UG2.I want to change from rollon chain to O-ring.For this im ready to change the sprockets too.Can pulsar 135 sprockets fit Pulsar 150 UG2?any other option?

Guys, My Pulsar 180 UG3, 2007 model, has completed 20,000 kms recently. I have just replaced the chain-sprocket kit on my Pulsar 180 UG3 to a chain sprocket kit from Pulsar 180 UG4:

Stock setup was 15/43 in .428 chain pitch. Chain had 124 links. (Ratio= 2.833, normal)

New Setup is 14/39 in .520 chain pitch. O-Ring Chain has 104 links. (Ratio= 2.766, slight overgearing.)

Initially, the bike was seeming very heavy to pull, and I knew something was wrong. Then I got the chain loosened and its much better now. Got it sprayed with chain spray.

Effect: The bike has been overgeared very slightly. Since I have R15 tyres which undergeared my bike, now the setup is back to normal. Around 50 kmph @ 4 krpm. Rollons might have been affected slightly only.

Visually, the large rear sprocket is looking dashing! The pull has been "slightly" compromised but its not that noticable except for initially. I did a 560 kms trip on Sunday on that chain sprocket setup and its doing fine!

Problem: The chain pitch is so long that despite only 104 links, the sprocket kit had to be set on the tighter side, and I might need to get some chain links cut, to adjust the chain later on as I continue using it.

My suggestion to UG3 owners: For over-gearing & touring, Go for P200's sprocket kit, which is 14/38 with 104 links so that it overgears respectably, and not just "slightly". Then, open the chain cover and use a Plastic Chain guard from "Discover 135 sports" costing Rs. 74, and get a hole drilled into the front part, using a heated screwdriver. Don't ride without any chain guard.

Images of the Pulsar 180 UG3 with new chain sproc. kit. Pardon the bad looks of the tyre/ wheel, it has just been through 560 kms in one day:



















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@ RascalAngel: Your bike has 6 fitment holes, while P135 (I'm not sure) has 4 holes.
So, the LML Freedom 40 teeth fits directly but its not O-Ring chain which runs on it.
You may also try to see, if the FZ16's rear sprocket (40 teeth) fits your bike... It runs on O-Ring chain, I think you can get the chain too. As for the front, I'm really not sure of the stock size. So, can't say...

@ cmahajan: You mean a new sprocket, right? or an old one?

@ fayad: So, what are your objectives with this change? Do you need to change gearing ratio? or do you just want a maintenance free o-ring chain?

I checked with the service center folks and they are telling that the ug4 front sprocket dia is more and will intrude with the engine case cover, did u do any modification on that front or is it simply a direct fit on the ug3??

BTW, what is that on your seat cover mate?? your seat has hair???

Thanks for the reply.

Its a direct fit. It is true that due to bigger chain pitch, the UG4 sprocket is fatter, but it fits just fine. No Mods needed. The chain's just tightened to its ultimate limit, which means that chain tightening later will require links cutting. 2 links cut will do fine later on.

And that seat cover was just an old one, to avoid damages to bike's stock seat. Will get a good one soon.

Mostly, its not necessary to change the wheel, only 2 definite parts must be changed, which is within the wheel's middle cylendrical section where drum brake is also there. (can't recall the name of the part). And the left side covering of this cylendrical section both.

O-Ring may make slight noise too. Although it can be kept in open so its fine. Get a good chain spray though. And get it adjusted a bit loose otherwise it will kill performance.

Check the FZ's chain too.
And to the last question, No, the chain may be replaced to O-Ring and sprockets may definitely remain the same, if the pitch matches exactly.

However, I'm not sure if there're side effects of this move. You know, if the different chains and sprockets have different durability then: Either one of these may wear out faster than the other. And you'll have to replace both earlier.

Ok buddy will check it out next week, by the way what do you mean by chain is tightened to its ultimate limit? the UG4 chain is longer due to lengthier wheelbase right? so when fitting ug4 chain to ug3 we'll have to cut two links and fit it, is it?

Ok, this may get confusing so read carefully: UG3 chain has more links, around 124 or so, and UG4 chain has 104 links, but due to .520 pitch, this chain is slightly longer than UG3 chain. Around 25% per link to be precise.

When any bike's chain is too loose (like after 10,000 kms of usage or some mis-adjustment), there is a mechanism to tighten it on the swingarm. We adjust/ tighten the chain play and tighten the chain. But this can be done only upto a particular limit and not beyond it.

Since, UG4 chain is longer, it proves to be loose and so the mechanic tightened it, to the limit. And its fine now.

But after 8000-10,000 kms as the chain wears out & loosens, I would not be able to tighten it anymore as its already on swingarm limit. THEN, I'll have no choice but to cut 2 links from the chain to make it shorter.

In short: Yes, the ug4 kit fits directly without cutting anything, but you'll have to cut 2 links, now or some thousand kms later, as any chain gets looser and looser with time, and you won't be able to adjust it without shortening the chain...

Chain Life

Wanted to know O-ring chain life (in terms of kms) under dusty condition.
Asking because i can see wear marks on rollers and some were even wraped , is it gonna break?
Sorry if its OT i'm little sacred about it

People have reported upto 30,000 kms before their P200 required replacement of chain-sprockets. But then, those guys replaced the tyres too at around 30k so we can assume that they were not too aggressive riders or stunters. Normally, chain sprockets should last 20-25k.

Rollers don't break if you maintain them well, like never use oil, use only chain spray, etc.

If you don't use chain spray often, then it might result in Frozen Links which have to be repaired from an experienced mechanic or they will SNAP the chain.

A Frozen link looks like this:



Wear marks? And as far as your problem is concerned, it would be better if you show the pics on your chain sprocket...

^^ the rollers/chain are not frozen or were ever frozen.
I always oil them, have not used any chain spray till date.
I most of the time ride in severely dusty condition & my chain is cover less.
And also i'm not cleaning them as often.
Have also got 2 links removed so that it can be adjusted.
And my bike is 22.5k kms old.
.
Here's the wrapped roller

Stop using oil in them now, if you want them to survive for longer and perform better.

You know oil's properties: it gives good lubrication, but it is a dust magnet. Dust STICKS and STAYS on it for as long as its not properly cleaned again with water and chain spray. And this again becomes a reason for frozen links and/ or faster depreciation of the chain.

PS: I have seen a P200 with frozen links at the Anjita Bajaj SVC and the cause was said to be the same: irregular usage of oil in the chain-sprocket.


Secondly, I couldn't make out much from the low-res pic except for a unequally worn out roller. But I think your chain play could be a problem... Keep your bike on the center stand and see if the lower part of the chain can be moved up to down for about 3-4 cms with bare hands. Get it loosened if its too tight.

These 2 things should help if properly checked...

now that's a costly affair


chain play is good if not best. I personaly set it at 1.5 inches at the tightest part, because i off-road daily.

Good chain sprays are available for around Rs. 250, its still better than getting chainsprockets replaced much earlier than their life...

Ok, thinking of trying it now. Can you name a few, specially cheap (but good) ones which are easily available?