Just out of curiosity,owners are complaining about the pathetic low end torque of pulsar 200 ns.In specs 200 ns have 18 nm torque,which is pretty respectable comparing other bikes in the segment,but this torque is supplied at high rpms only.
Can we use a bigger rear sprocket to make 200 Ns a better city tool,by making ratios shorter?I understand that it will not bring low rpm torque but at lower speeds one could use better torque.Question is can we use its brother's(Duke's),sprocket on this?If not,any other?
Is there any chance of reduction in reliability?Warranty affected?

I want to do the exact opposite. Get the 200NS sprcoket set installed on my duke to boost the top end for highway and for relaxed highway rides. Anybody tried that here? I think it should be no problem as the wheelbase is same for both the bikes(give or take 2-4 mm). But why the difference in price? 200NS kit is 1200 wheres the duke kit is 1600+ ? are the specs different apart from the no of teeth? As in is the chain spec different in terms of load bearing capacity ?

I want to do the exact opposite. Get the 200NS sprcoket set installed on my duke to boost the top end for highway and for relaxed highway rides. Anybody tried that here? I think it should be no problem as the wheelbase is same for both the bikes(give or take 2-4 mm). But why the difference in price? 200NS kit is 1200 wheres the duke kit is 1600+ ? are the specs different apart from the no of teeth? As in is the chain spec different in terms of load bearing capacity ?

First of all, the earlier Pulsars had great low end. But P200 NS is all new, remember?


They're not inter-compatible. Duke 200 is on .520 chain, a 14/43 setup. Pulsar is using a 14 or 15/39 setup, which is most probably on .428 chain. And rear sprocket of Pulsar has 6 holes, unlike Duke 200 which has 4.

If you want to overgear your Duke, try using a 39 teeth rear sprocket from Pulsar 180 UG4, but with your stock chain only. It will become more "balanced" in terms of gearing.


NOTE: Most bikers are under the myth that under-gearing will always mean better acceleration in 0-60 and 0-100. That's not true. The more you undergear, the more gearshifts you would need to reach 60 or 100 for that matter.
And the larger/ super bikes might have a tendency to wheelie a lot. And also, acceleration depends on grip too, in case of superbikes. So, nothing is certain there too.

Duke takes 4 gearshifts to reach 100 kmph. CBR takes just 2. Its an advantage because gearshifts take up valuable time. Overgearing the Duke is a great idea.

First of all, the earlier Pulsars had great low end. But P200 NS is all new, remember?


They're not inter-compatible. Duke 200 is on .520 chain, a 14/43 setup. Pulsar is using a 14 or 15/39 setup, which is most probably on .428 chain. And rear sprocket of Pulsar has 6 holes, unlike Duke 200 which has 4.

If you want to overgear your Duke, try using a 39 teeth rear sprocket from Pulsar 180 UG4, but with your stock chain only. It will become more "balanced" in terms of gearing.


NOTE: Most bikers are under the myth that under-gearing will always mean better acceleration in 0-60 and 0-100. That's not true. The more you undergear, the more gearshifts you would need to reach 60 or 100 for that matter.
And the larger/ super bikes might have a tendency to wheelie a lot. And also, acceleration depends on grip too, in case of superbikes. So, nothing is certain there too.

Duke takes 4 gearshifts to reach 100 kmph. CBR takes just 2. Its an advantage because gearshifts take up valuable time. Overgearing the Duke is a great idea.

Okay. So would it result in any dramatic changes in the top-speed of the Duke?

Cheers!
VJ

btw logic says that a chain which serves a better accelerating(undergeared) bike has to be more robust(in that the force-withstanding/tension rating than a chain serving a bike having better top end. All else remaining same. This, if true, can be one of the reason of the duke chain being costlier because it may have better tension ratings.
But then again, the difference in acceleration may not be much which merits a huge difference in ratings and hence prices. May be BLACKTHORN's reasoning is more apt

First of all, the earlier Pulsars had great low end. But P200 NS is all new, remember?

I think it should increase it by a little, but can't be sure... Since we now have electronics playing a part, I've no idea where the Duke will cut off. Normally, the limiter kicks in at a certain rpm, and in case of bigger bikes like hayabusa, at a certain speed.



Dude, we've been doing enough stunts on our desi bikes to believe this. My chain never snapped, its only tore out with time. You should understand that marketing plays a huge part too. For example, a carburetor main jet costs Rs. 20 for achiever (#118) and Rs. 153 for Karizma (#125)... And I have every reason to believe that it has more to do with marketing than production cost.

Another example is P220 vs Karizma. Both bikes cost very close to each other in terms of initial price. But the spares? You know how expensive Karizma proves to be, in comparison. So, don't believe that chain is costly, because its stronger... but it may be because its longer.


Ok, jokes apart, did you go for the mod? I think Duke can easily pull with a 14/39 combo. Only it would be more suitable for open roads, and you might have to shift a lot more gears. Like I said, Duke in stock condition is on the undergeared side.

I didn't understand?Are you telling that some upgrade for 200 ns is coming in near future with better low end?

Exactly. Electronics screw up things for the most part. Still prefer old school, when it comes to basics. But still will have an eye on this thread. Thanks, bud.

Cheers!
VJ

.... still beating the hell out of some latest stock-condition motorcycles.

Well Anybody tried some more sprocketing?

Gearing is a measure of all the components that determine the rate at which an engine's crankshaft's revolutions are transmitted, into the vehicle's speed. It comes from the word "gears" which are rotating cogs, which decide what speed the machine picks up, at a particular rpm.



A Sample photo of the front sprocket of my bike (Pulsar 180 UG3) is given below:



Sprocketing means changing the front & rear sprocket sizes to affect gearing. It's one of the simplest and easiest mods. The basic info says that:-->

1. Bigger rear sprocket or smaller front sprocket, results in gearing biased towards acceleration, with some lag in top speed.
2. Smaller rear sprocket or bigger front sprocket, results in gearing biased towards top speed, with some lag in acceleration.

Gearing does NOT result in more or less power. It only affects how the power is laid, by changing the balance between top speed and acceleration. So, if one wants more top speed, and is prepared to lose acceleration a bit, or vice versa, then sprocketing is advisable.

Taller gearing results in better highway mileage, and short gearing results in less highway mileage. This is due to the fact, that in longer gearing, the machine travels longer distance for a particular engine speed (rpm), and vice versa.

Gearing maybe affected by: Sprockets' size change, rear tyre's size change, gearbox modification, clutch drag, etc.
Gearing is NOT affected by: Weight/ load change (pillion, etc.), front tyre change, free flow air filters/ power mods, etc.

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Change Measurement: Final Gearing Value: The sizes of front and rear sprocket (measured in "no. of teeth" the sprockets have) determines the final gearing.
It is calculated by Rear Sprocket Teeth divided by Front sprocket Teeth. Like Pulsar 180 UG4 has a 14 front and 39 rear setup. So, its stock final gearing is 39/14 which is equal to 2.786.

Final gearing is for comparison between different sprocket combinations, this way:

45/15= 3.000 (Let's call this "Setup X")
44/14= 3.143 (Under gearing, compared to "Setup X", means more acceleration)
39/14= 2.786 (Over gearing, compared to "Setup X", means more top speed)

Higher Final Gearing value signifies moving gearing towards acceleration (short gearing), and vice versa. So, when changing both sprockets from stock, the new gearing value should be calculated to determine which way you're going with gearing.

But if you overgear too much, you might need a very long stretch to achieve a good top speed, or you might not achieve it at all. So, for a stock bike, a gearing change should be within 10% at maximum, that's it!

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Rear Tyres size change affect Gearing: Rear Tyre change (size) may affect overall gearing, if the profile (height) is affected due to this change. A higher profile increases gearing, while a lower profile decreases it.
A tyre with size 120/70 has a normal height of (120mm x 70%) which is 84mm. But, the broadness of the tyre rim can change the "final height".

A broader rim gives less tyre height, as tyre is rubber, and it expands over the broader rim, causing lesser ride height & lower gearing. And of course, vice versa too. For example, if you fit the R15 rear tyre on your Pulsars, you might not change gearing at all, because although the R15 tyre is of lower height, but the Pulsar rim is narrower than R15's, and a narrow rim raises the ride height.

Front tyre size change doesn't affect gearing, although it may contribute to a different ride height, weight and different speeds on the speedometer.


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Direct Sprocket Fits:

Remember that your stock chain can be successfully adjusted for upto 2-3 teeth changes in sprockets. Beyond that, you may or may not require a new chain OR you may be required to remove some links from the chain. For the sake of pillion travel, the chain play should be adequate. After re-installing the chain, move the bottom portion of chain upwards, it should go upto 10-15mm only, not more or less than this.
Remember that you might need to purchase the whole kit instead of just the sprocket depending on where you purchase it from. These sprocket combinations are direct fits to the mentioned bikes:

Apache RTR 160/ 160 Fi: Stock Setup: 13/44 teeth.

To overgear RTR 160, use the 14 teeth front sprocket from Yamaha YZF R15/ Fiero F2. (Thanks Aparajith)

Apache RTR 180: Stock Setup: 14/46 teeth.

To overgear RTR 180, use the 15 teeth front sprocket from Bajaj Pulsar 150/ 180 UG3 only! But, buy a sprocket holder ring and the nuts to suit, as the RTR ones do not match the Pulsars' sprocket. (Thanks FlyingJian & lijok)

To undergear RTR 180, use the 13 teeth front sprocket from RTR 160, its a direct fit. (Thanks Utkarsh Stunty Sharma)

Pulsar 220 DTS Fi (Old model): Stock setup: 14/37 on .520 pitch.

To undergear it, use:
P200's rear sprocket, 38 teeth,
Karizma's rear sprocket, 40 teeth, (Thanks Prafultripathy)
KTM Duke 200's rear sprocket, 43 teeth, (Thanks joelkraju)

Pulsar 200 DTSi: Stock setup: 14/38 on .520 pitch.

To overgear it, use P220's rear sprocket, 36-37 teeth,
To undergear it, use Karizma's rear sprocket, 40 teeth, (Thanks Prafultripathy)

Pulsar 180 and 150 UG3: Stock Setup: (15/43 and 15/44)

To undergear it, use Discover 135 Sports' Front Sprocket, 14 teeth. But you will need Discover's lock plate and nuts. (Thanks Prabhakar 150)

To overgear it, use the complete chain-sprocket kit of Pulsar 180 UG4 or Pulsar 200 (first ver.), which is 14/39 and 14/38 respectively.
You can remove the metal chain guard and instead, use plastic chain guard from Discover 135 Sports (Rs. 74) after drilling a hole in it, as its maintenance free O Ring chain. Don't put oil, just put chain spray on it. Remove 2 chain links from the chain, if you can. Otherwise, it will require link cutting later on as the chain wears out. (tried by Samarth 619 on P180 UG3)

For ONLY slight gearing change, you can use P150 UG3's kit in P180 UG3 (for undergearing) and P180 UG3's kit in P150 UG3 (for overgearing).

Yamaha YZF R15 Version 1.0: Stock Setup: 14/42

To overgear it, use rear sprocket, 40 teeth from Yamaha FZ 16. (Thanks anirudh_fz1)

Daytona Kits for R15 (may be expensive):

To undergear it, get the Daytona Kit's 13 teeth front,
To undergear it, get the Daytona Kit's 44 teeth rear,
To overgear it, get the Daytona Kit's 40 teeth rear.

Yamaha FZ16: Stock Setup: 14/40

To overgear it, use front sprocket, 15 teeth from Honda Unicorn or Bajaj Pulsar 150/180 UG3. (Thanks iamvik and)
To undergear it, use rear sprocket, 42 teeth from Yamaha YZF R15. (Thanks anirudh_fz1)

Daytona Kits for FZ16 (may be expensive):

To undergear it, get the Daytona Kit's 13 teeth front or 42 or 44 teeth rear.

(For both R15 version 1.0 and FZ16, Daytona kits provide a choice of 40/42/44 teeth sprockets for rear, 13 teeth for front, and either a 122 or a 130 link chain, so you can choose your new gearing accordingly)

Honda Shine 125: Stock Setup: 14/~

To overgear it, use front sprocket, 15 teeth from Honda Unicorn. But, you'll have to shave off the sides of the sprocket so it matches the chain pitch. (Bike India)

Honda Stunner 125 Carb: Stock Setup: 14/~

To overgear it, use front sprocket, 15 teeth from Honda Unicorn. (Thanks cmahajan)

Honda Unicorn 1st and 2nd Gen: Stock Setup: 15/42
Honda Unicorn 3rd/4th onwards: Stock Setup: 15/43

Direct Fits - With Chain pitch .428 (Unicorn Chain)
Front 14T from Hero Honda Ambition/CBZ/Xtreme
with Rear 38T (Ambition)
with Rear 46T (CBZ Classic)

With Chain Pitch .520 (Karizma chain):
13T/40T of Karizma
13T(ZMA)/38T(P200)

Hero Honda Karizma: Stock Setup: 13/40 on .520 Pitch.

To overgear, use a 38 teeth Rear Sprocket from P200, but P200 chain length is not sufficient. Adjust your Karizma Chain after installing. (Thanks Shreeni for above info)

Pulsar 150 UG2 (Analog Meter): Stock setup: ~/44

To overgear, use a 40 teeth rear sprocket (with 6 fitment holes) from LML Freedom. It requires cutting 2 links from the chain. (thanks hotshot.vipin)
(The rear sprockets of FZ, R15, Pulsar UG2 and earlier, LML Freedom, have 6 fitment holes. Others mostly have 4.)

Duke 200: Stock setup: 14/43 on a .520 chain pitch.

To overgear your Duke 200,
1. use a 36 teeth sprocket from P220 DTSi. (confirmed, thanks joelkraju)
2. use a 37, 38, 39, 40 teeth sprocket from P220 DTS Fi, P200 older, P180 UG4 or Karizma. (not confirmed, but these sprockets should definitely fit I think.)

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Gearing Commander Website: Guys, we can find final ratio by using any combo of sprockets by using (Rear no. of teeth/Front no. of teeth) formula.
But what if we change a lot of things like, both sprockets, rear tyres, Primary Ratio, rear rim, etc.?
Fear not, there is a solution. You can find out all about the gearing even before trying it out. Plus it has stock info on gearing of many bikes. You can use the below website for calculating gearing by entering everything that affects gearing:->

Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator (Credits: Sir Old Fox)


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I'll be adding more info. Please suggest improvements to this topic by sending me PM's/ posting here. --Samarth

Thanks Samarth for your excellent article !!Hi Samarth,After 20000 kms, mThe only possible solution was:Btw, I have installed K&N YA1611 flatbed type air filter (without upjetting), NGK Iridium Splitfire cable. And after installing the Raceconcepts Free Flow Exhaust, the bike's pick up and torque at any RPM is awesome (it has ample torque in every band), truly it's a never before experience. Perhaps the top speed is reduced, need to test and confirm again.

if new sprocket is used on Old chain, new sprocket will wear out sooner and also chain will face accelerated wear, because with use your chain-sprocket has changed its pitch, and is bigger than new sprocket (normal wear process). Using new sprocket on old chain will cause lots of noise and vibration. Also I don't think one can get rear sprocket easily. So best best bet is to change the chain set. Or get your hands on chain cutter tool, with it you can remove 2 or 4 links from your chain (as links can only be removed in pairs) regarding free flow air filter [its off topic :@] without jetting and AFR tuning, it will lean out the AFR through out the rev range, hence lower power output.

Thanks Samarth for your excellent article !!

Hi Samarth,

After 20000 kms, my Yamaha FZ-S’s chain has got loosened (became stretched). Even the adjustment limit is over.The sprockets are fair enough (though they are 20k km old) and I don’t want to change them now.
The only possible solution was: to cut few link’s of the chain to make it smaller (though a risky job). But, as everyone knows, FZ/R15 does not have a chain lock (from where the chain opens usually). So the mechanic is saying that I need to buy a whole chain-sprocket set which I don’t want to do. So my question is:

• What should I do now? What is the best and cheapest option for me?

• To make the chain tighter, can I use the 42 teeth rear sprocket of R15 ? I know this would result in under-gearing (more initial acceleration, a bit less top speed…accepted to me). if yes, cost/availability ?


Btw, I have installed K&N YA1611 flatbed type air filter (without upjetting), NGK Iridium+Splitfire cable. And after installing the Raceconcepts Free Flow Exhaust, the bike's pick up and torque at any RPM is awesome (it has ample torque in every band), truly it's a never before experience. Perhaps the top speed is reduced, need to test and confirm again.