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Originally posted by gixxer_junkie_m View PostWhen Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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Originally posted by psr View PostEvery time I look at YOUR bike i can't help feeling how sexed up your bike is...you are always in the forward lean position......it is mean looking at the same time shows care...good care..
For me it's either a full blown sports bike or a cafe-racer kind,the other kinds don't touch the same chord.Life begins, once you hit the power band !!
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Originally posted by psr View PostEvery time I look at YOUR bike i can't help feeling how sexed up your bike is...you are always in the forward lean position......it is mean looking at the same time shows care...good care..Life begins, once you hit the power band !!
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Originally posted by gixxer_junkie_m View PostYeah she's sexed up alright The riding position is like,well you know doggy style She's still a work-in-progress,let's see how much more i can improve her.When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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Originally posted by psr View PostI find the handle bar is a bit low..don't you get back strain on long rides ?My MVX used to be lower and combined with 18" rear and 16 " front made my life miserable even in city rides...I guess You have a strong back from all that riding
Regarding my back i have had a lower back injury from a dead-lift at gym(It's stronger than ever now,thanks to goddess) .Believe it or not,i get back aches if i ride high handle bikes and that's because once the handle gets higher the weight shifts to your lower back as arms and shoulders won't bear the weight.That is the sport bike riding position puts the weight on the arms and the shoulders,making us keep our backs straight and they won't bear any weight.
If your remember the classic bikes of even 20's and 30's vintage,they all had a low handle bar with mid-ship foot pegs and weight on the front end.That is a 60/40 weight distribution, biased to the front-end.They knew what they were doing. Only when the jap bikes came did the sit-up-and-beg dog style of riding position came.Along with it back injuries,light front ends leading to poor handling/road grip.In our country itself see Jawa and Bullet .They both had low handle bars.Last edited by gixxer_junkie_m; 06-19-2011, 09:29 PM.Life begins, once you hit the power band !!
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Originally posted by gixxer_junkie_m View PostThe picture doesn't show how low the handle bar actually is The front end looks big because of the angle so it has made the handle look higher than it is.
Regarding my back i have had a lower back injury from a dead-lift at gym(It's stronger than ever now,thanks to goddess) .Believe it or not,i get back aches if i ride high handle bikes and that's because once the handle gets higher the weight shifts to your lower back as arms and shoulders won't bear the weight.That is the sport bike riding position puts the weight on the arms and the shoulders,making us keep our backs straight and they won't bear any weight.
If your remember the classic bikes of even 20's and 30's vintage,they all had a low handle bar with mid-ship foot pegs and weight on the front end.That is a 60/40 weight distribution, biased to the front-end.They knew what they were doing. Only when the jap bikes came did the sit-up-and-beg dog style of riding position came.Along with it back injuries,light front ends leading to poor handling/road grip.In our country itself see Jawa and Bullet .They both had low handle bars.When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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Originally posted by gixxer_junkie_m View Post@Sarvajit
Star city mud guard's price is 550.Whether it fits your bike's fork legs or not ,you'd have see that.
Originally posted by tintin708 View PostHi! my bike is having a new problem. just yesterday i filled in petrol (3.5ltrs), came back home, and then when i started my bike after half n hour or so, i found the idling rpm below 1000! god knows how it automatically came down. and the same day in the evening while riding for about 18kms, i stopped at a signal and the rpm was fluctuating between 1000 and 1200rpm!!! what could be the problem? since 2 months i have never changed the idling rpm setting.
Originally posted by MaSh View PostA good Saturday. Treated the Fiero with a new Amron Battery, Round head light and handle bar from Bajaj Pulsar 150 Classic.
FZ handle bar was not in stock and the headlight needed a custom bracket for which I did not have the time. So maybe in due course.
Battery:
Amron maintenance free battery. Rs.800/-. On testing my old battery, I was told, that it was dead(I was not surprised) as two of its cells were not working. With the new one in place, Neutral light and indicators are brighter. Horn could not be tested as it had conked off a year ago. It is in any case of little use when there is a free flow singing.
OT: Even the car got a new battery. Amron maintenance free. My used battery fetched me Rs.700/-. So in all I paid 4k for two batteries. The guy came to my apartment and changed both the batteries. Not sure but it could be on the higher side. Bike battery comes with 4 years warranty and Car's 3 years.
Headlight:
Classic Pulsar 150 round head light. Rs. 450/- + 200 for bracket. Another 80 bucks for bulb, rubber washers,etc. The headlight and bracket were a direct fit, beam is quite alright. I would say, does the Job. Can manage with it, till I find a way to add the projector.
Handle Bar:
Pulsar 150 Classic handle bar. Rs. 250/-.Handle bar is not too different from the OE Fiero Classic handle bar. The height is slightly lesser and that sure helps. I can imagine what an FZ handle bar can do.
The bike feels a lot better, after the handle bar change. The reason being, the handle on my bike got bent on her first fall 10 years ago. So have always ridden with a bent handle. Will have to get used to a normal handle now.
Pics: Very soon.
MaSh
Originally posted by psr View PostHa ha ha ...yes but for long rides the slight situp style seems to be better..Even after 140 kms ride in my ZMA i had no back or any body pain....(4 Kms of it both ways was on unpaved Bridge in progress dug up road )....oh... by the way it is also called commuter styleQuench my thirst with gasoline!
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Originally posted by gixxer_junkie_m View PostThe picture doesn't show how low the handle bar actually is The front end looks big because of the angle so it has made the handle look higher than it is.
Regarding my back i have had a lower back injury from a dead-lift at gym(It's stronger than ever now,thanks to goddess) .Believe it or not,i get back aches if i ride high handle bikes and that's because once the handle gets higher the weight shifts to your lower back as arms and shoulders won't bear the weight.That is the sport bike riding position puts the weight on the arms and the shoulders,making us keep our backs straight and they won't bear any weight.
If your remember the classic bikes of even 20's and 30's vintage,they all had a low handle bar with mid-ship foot pegs and weight on the front end.That is a 60/40 weight distribution, biased to the front-end.They knew what they were doing. Only when the jap bikes came did the sit-up-and-beg dog style of riding position came.Along with it back injuries,light front ends leading to poor handling/road grip.In our country itself see Jawa and Bullet .They both had low handle bars.
The ONLY difference between your and my re-bent handlebar is that mine is slightly wider.
as we share the same footpeg placement too, so i COMPLETELY know how it feels to ride and steer it, and its AMAZING.
Even i thought I'll have some upper back issues with this new handlebar, but on contrary this saved my lower back, even after doing some 470kms, there was no backache.
Upper-back has become rock solid with 4 years of Jeet-Kune-Do anyways.
Even i find the upper handlebar bikes a bit difficult to ride.
1 more thing, this handlebar position gives amazing front end feedback, which even clip-ons fail to give, i have my friend's ZMR with me until 22nd, i do ride it almost everyday, and i still feel that in RAINS, fiero feels much much better coz of the handle bar, whereas karizma sometimes gives a feeling that we can't turn at a particular patch.
Even FZ's front end doesn't feel that confidence inspiring.
and as MASH asked in the previous page about what's needed to fit this, we don't need to drill any holes on the handlebar to fit our STOCK switches, only p135 switches need a drill on this handlebar.Giving a lot to a fiero.
Expecting a lot from a fiero.
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Originally posted by NANOtechnology View Post+100 to that.
1 more thing, this handlebar position gives amazing front end feedback, which even clip-ons fail to give, i have my friend's ZMR with me until 22nd, i do ride it almost everyday, and i still feel that in RAINS, fiero feels much much better coz of the handle bar, whereas karizma sometimes gives a feeling that we can't turn at a particular patch.When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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@Nanotech
Spot on! The difference between your bike and mine is that it's USD.
@Psr
Had thought of putting clip-on handles(real sport bike ones,which fit onto the fork),but changed my mind,as i had experienced first hand,as to what happens if a bike with clip-on handle falls(classic CBZ).If the bolts of the handles get de-threaded,or handle breaks ,then it's time to hitch a ride back home on the back of a truck.Imagine that happening in the middle of nowhere!Were as in case of a steel handle,at most it'll get bent,yet very much ride-able and i've ridden a road-king for 90+ kms that way.Life begins, once you hit the power band !!
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Originally posted by Sarvajit View Post
Waiting for pics. Where did you get all this done btw? I would have loved to join but was busy.
You can join me when I get the shocks done.
Originally posted by gixxer_junkie_m View PostIt's a good thing that you went for the classic round headlight.You could have at least gone for the pulsar150 ug4's handle.It's lot lower than the classic pulsar,even Apache150 had a much much lower handle than the classic pulsar.
FZ handle is the one which suits the fiero best.
That will lower the front end drastically and the weight bias on the front end improves the handling/road grip like no one's business!Last edited by MaSh; 06-20-2011, 04:09 AM.**MaSh**
**Work to Ride and Ride to Work**
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Originally posted by gixxer_junkie_m View Post@Nanotech
Spot on! The difference between your bike and mine is that it's USD.
@Psr
Had thought of putting clip-on handles(real sport bike ones,which fit onto the fork),but changed my mind,as i had experienced first hand,as to what happens if a bike with clip-on handle falls(classic CBZ).If the bolts of the handles get de-threaded,or handle breaks ,then it's time to hitch a ride back home on the back of a truck.Imagine that happening in the middle of nowhere!Were as in case of a steel handle,at most it'll get bent,yet very much ride-able and i've ridden a road-king for 90+ kms that way.When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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@Sarvajit
F2 mudguard isn't available,so they don't know it's price.
@MASH
Yeah it'll be clear once the pictures are seen.
@Nanotech
How's your bike? The mech of ZEN had gone for the maruti dare rally as support mech for the bikes they prepare.So once he comes to garage i'll ask him about clutch plate options.Life begins, once you hit the power band !!
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@ all
Just when i thought all my problems are over, they started again.
From past 1-2 weeks my bike's doing well again, but today i was riding and it started to rain again, in just 3-4 mins of rain the bike STOPPED like before.
Its not ready to start.
Was lucky that I'd been carrying my bag today, so i had a screwdriver.
The first thing i did was drain some fuel off the fuel tank, and i am 100% sure there was not a single drop of water in it, infact even after opening up the tank cap, i realized that the area which has grooves was dry.
I did drain some amount of fuel from the carb too, pure and clean fuel from it too.
I did open up the plug socket, since the IDI unit has a smaller spark plug wire, i couldn't directly attach it to the plug without that holder, so i did try to blow off some water (if present) inside the holder and put it back.
BUT No luck.
tried push start, kick start and button start.
Nothing helped.
with heavy amount of choke, and after some 100 or so attempts, it did start.
But as soon as i touched the throttle, it stopped again.
After 5 to 10 attempts, and adjusting the idling screw to some 3.5k ~ 4k rpm, it did start (with choke pulled too).
I rode for like some 1-2 kms with choke pulled out, and then put it back it, the bike stopped again.
But after some another 500 to 600 mts, it felt a bit better, was behaving normally, so adjusted the idling screw back to 1000 rpm.
it did shut itself down again, but after some 10 or so attempts with the choke pulled out, it worked.
now it was okay, was behaving normal again.
Was reaching home, and just a km before the house, it was brilliant.
Was ripping it a bit, and was performing amazingly, suddenly it started wobbling like crazy, i stopped and checked for a puncture, and the rear wheel was flat.
However i was riding it as the destination wasn't far away, and it started raining heavily again.
Bike stopped again when the raindrops touched it, and i had to bring it home pulling it all the way, getting wet.
Giving a lot to a fiero.
Expecting a lot from a fiero.
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Originally posted by NANOtechnology View Post@ all
Just when i thought all my problems are over, they started again.
From past 1-2 weeks my bike's doing well again, but today i was riding and it started to rain again, in just 3-4 mins of rain the bike STOPPED like before.
Its not ready to start.
Was lucky that I'd been carrying my bag today, so i had a screwdriver.
The first thing i did was drain some fuel off the fuel tank, and i am 100% sure there was not a single drop of water in it, infact even after opening up the tank cap, i realized that the area which has grooves was dry.
I did drain some amount of fuel from the carb too, pure and clean fuel from it too.
I did open up the plug socket, since the IDI unit has a smaller spark plug wire, i couldn't directly attach it to the plug without that holder, so i did try to blow off some water (if present) inside the holder and put it back.
BUT No luck.
tried push start, kick start and button start.
Nothing helped.
with heavy amount of choke, and after some 100 or so attempts, it did start.
But as soon as i touched the throttle, it stopped again.
After 5 to 10 attempts, and adjusting the idling screw to some 3.5k ~ 4k rpm, it did start (with choke pulled too).
I rode for like some 1-2 kms with choke pulled out, and then put it back it, the bike stopped again.
But after some another 500 to 600 mts, it felt a bit better, was behaving normally, so adjusted the idling screw back to 1000 rpm.
it did shut itself down again, but after some 10 or so attempts with the choke pulled out, it worked.
now it was okay, was behaving normal again.
Was reaching home, and just a km before the house, it was brilliant.
Was ripping it a bit, and was performing amazingly, suddenly it started wobbling like crazy, i stopped and checked for a puncture, and the rear wheel was flat.
However i was riding it as the destination wasn't far away, and it started raining heavily again.
Bike stopped again when the raindrops touched it, and i had to bring it home pulling it all the way, getting wet.
u also make sure that the red cut-off switch along with the ignition key assembly are in good condition. water should never enter these parts!
you have modified ur bike heavily, so also make sure ur entire electrical assembly, wires are in condition. tape the wires which may have got cut or the rubber coating if removed (i.e if wires are naked)
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