Lol yeah, I think bike has become much more meaner with low slung handle bar

@ All

My bike has come back from service & I am feeling the bike has become much better than what it was when it went to service.

Although I have ridden just about 5kms with FZ handle It feels like good, its on the lower side than STD handle but the feel from the road is much more & bike feels much more planted than in the std handle bar.

Now the rim - Have put stock 1.80" rim although the tire is same i.e 100/90-18, but here is the interesting part the bike has become much more relaxed while picking up speed & pick up from low speed in 3rd or 4th gear is much relaxed than what it was with fatter rim

I am feeling mileage will surely improve & I have decided that my next rear tire change will be in to 3.00x18 & not any bigger than that .

Will come back & post mileage updates after the rim change done

Having seen and ridden the new set-up,it surely is worth the small amount of money spent on it.The handle is not too radical as my set-up,but much,much better than the stock .It is in fact highly recommended for all bikes,because having ridden Abhi's bike,it's in fact very comfortable rather than being sporty.

The rim has increased the tyre's profile,so the contact area has reduced,which should mean a relative improvement over the previous wide set-up which used to make the tyre have lot of contact area when upright.
The other upside is the reduction in weight,which should reduce the stress on the engine a bit more.

Overall, definitely a much needed change.More practical than being cosmetic.

Ding dong, where are everyone ?

Ha ha ha I was waiting for someone to do my duty......SEVEN days without a single post....Nano what happened to your bore check up ? and Gixxer is your BS29 set up properly now ?..

My Fiero Classic restored

Hi PSR Sir and all!! I have been checking for so long but this lull was really long, was keen to know, what happened to nano's bike, I think he is busy with his exams and deficiency of vitamin M is still there. Chief is also out of action for so many days so I break this silence and tell you about my restoration work
Engine work complete with timing chain, rocker, crank, head reboring, piston(usha) could not get another brand and none was available with TVS ass( I prefer to call them), could not get carb from them so got bajaj pulsars carb, new fuel tank (blue), new side panels(blue), new TPFC(silver) have ordered blue one though,new mudguard front and plastic one complete for rear, new headlight fixture (complete), new wire hang (minda), new regulator from TVS, FZ handle bars as suggested by Gixx and bike feels completely new, both sirac street tyres, new backlight, new leg-guard. silencer and both the rims were sent for chrome and truing but rims are rusted so have to change them now after monsoon,new set of wheel spokes for both tyres both drums, breakshoes, new lock set, new meter console of pricol, meter gears and wires of clutch and accelerator, choke, break and clutch levers, new switches on both sides of handle, cone set, rear shockers of Gabriel from TVS, new battery, front shocker were straightened and repaired and refilled with oil,
now the report after 1400 kms on odo, it lacks power after 2nd gear it seems there is problem with carb tuning and TVS ass here in Rishikesh does not have CO machine so had talk with Dehradun TVS ass, will take bike to Dehradun TVS. other problem is of fuel gauze, in the morning when bike is switched on the fuel meter shows tank half reading irrespective of fuel in tank but as soon as bike is kick started the meter goes nil and it come to half sometimes in between the ride but most of time it is nil. so advise is needed. I have ordered complete Magneto assembly as I feel the light during night driving is very dim as I have new fixtures with good bulb in it.
above all, I have bought new Bolero SLX too but restoration of Fiero and riding it gave me more pleasure than new Bolero

Oh yeah,absolutely! The carb has pretty much completed the performance up-grade for my girl.No complaints what so ever!The 29mm p180carb is bringing out the TCI and big-bore's advantages quite clearly.It's a straight fit and another good thing about it ,is that there's no need for a K&N and that alone is sufficient to make it a better choice over the 32mm one.
Still haven't heard a thing from the TVS ASS about the manifold though and the mech is too damn busy to get the header pipe done.
The spark plug(coldest) is nice and dark after the mech tuned it with a digital tacho. So overall ,it's been a worthy 2,300 bucks invested on it.Thanks to Bajaj!! without whom it would have cost us 3,750 for the same!

Good to hear that you're happy riding the fiero again.Yes nothing quite like riding a bike and exploring mother nature's curves .Especially at a place where she's putting her full beauty on display.

Usha pistons are the first choice,so there's nothing to worry there.Yes the carb might need tuning to bring her back to stock level of performance.
Although,i think you should have gone for the RTR bore kit,along with a used RTR head.It would have been cheaper and you'd have gotten 180cc's for the same buck.
The fuel guage/sensor might need servicing and that should solve it.

Nice to hear from you and happy that the BS29 had once and for all settled well into your bike...
Good Luck to you ALWAYS..

Thanks ,yes you can safely suggest this carb to anyone looking for a decent,bang-for-the-buck,performing carb.

Thanks Gixx.... I think most of the little problems will be solved when I take it to Dun, I should have gone for the RTR 180 setup but that time I did not have advisers like you but I hope I can do it in next 3 yrs as I am planning to keep it. moreover any advise on Magneto assembly thing, it will cost 2700 grand and I have inquired in many places there are'nt many people who wound that thing..

@ PSR

Didn't go to the mech, but i assume its just a frozen piston ring.
I don't know, if its a bigger problem i might not be able to repair it maybe.
The main reason is great shortage of TIME, coupled with cash.

Mech too is quite busy, so he'll give me a call once he's free.

If in case i can source money from somewhere, and reboring is needed, i might go for p220's piston.

But to be honest, i don't feel to mod this bike even more, Its kinda reached at a stage where i might just give up.
I don't know how to explain.

@ rafting guru

Nice to see that you've done great job on your bike.
Even i think you should have got rtr's bore kit.
Its really great.

Thanks! Nano.. I would definately go for RTR 180 kit soon it crosses 10 k on Odo. now, I have few mods in mind suggest if it is possible
1) electric start
2) Front disc brakes (It is possible as I have read somehere in this thread that F@ disc brakes are direct fit) so I need to know what has to be done
3) Rear Disc brakes
4 alloy wheels front and rear
so advise what all things are possible

RTR kit is highly recommended.
Here's my advice for other queries.

1.
Electric Start.

Definitely Possible, i have done that already.
You'll need a few things.

• Starter motor (MOST IMPORTANT) ~ 2300 bucks
• One way bearing (clutch) ~ 1280 bucks
• Magnet Flywheel ~ 800 bucks
• Step down gear (difficult to source) ~ 240 bucks
• Pin (Maybe you won't need it) ~ 50 bucks
• Bush over the pin (very very difficult to source) ~ 30 bucks
• Wiring Harness with starter circuit (optional) ~ 300 to 1000 bucks
• Starter relay ~ 20 bucks
• RH switch with a starter button ~ 600 bucks

Apart from all these, you'll need to get a hole made on the starter motor's groove already provided.
There's a inner circle on the groove, you need to slice it in all the way matching the exact diameter of the inner circle.
Remember to use good quality cutter ( mine was done using diamond tip cutter) and file off the edges.

The starter motor will have an o-ring, so you won't have to worry about absolute perfection using a vernier.
Rest of the query is simple, the starter motor will run the step down gear, and the step down gear will run the magnet flywheel which literally means rotate the crank (similar to what we do while kicking) and the bike will spark.

Remember to either dismantle the engine and then get the hole made, as a lot of scrap metal will be sucked in the engine if you do in as it is ( i however took that risk) or not, provided the guy who's doing it is confident.

Another important thing, remember to buy the above list as RTR's kit only, as fiero once's as undoubtedly good but the one way mechanism as well as the flywheel of fiero is very complex.
Apart from costing double.

But the money and effort is well worth it, gives a latest gen feel, coupled with ease of start and stop anywhere, specially in traffic.

Another thing worth mentioning - You'll need atleast a 5 amp battery to run the starter motor, rest all the electricals can be kept exactly the same.

2.

Disk brakes are again very well possible, but F2 ones will cost a fortune, i recommend go for Pulsar's one, all you need is a standard disk mechanism, the master cylinder, brake lever, caliper's etc etc, and you'll need to change your right (in case of pulsar's) fork bottom to accommodate the calipers and left (in case of f2's) for the same, the pulsar's one will give you the disk on the right, and the fiero one will give you a disk on the left.

Besides, i haven't done it, GIX has, so he can guide you much better.

3.

Rear disk !!

Well its again possible, but too expensive.
You'll need to change your swing-arm
Your rear wheel
would need installing RTR's rearsets (entire unit) as the brake hose that your bike currently has couldn't be used.
Adding standard disk brake mechanism for the rear too.

As a personal opinion, i don't recommend you to do it as the money spent on the gain isn't worth it.
But if you have made up your mind, and have enough cash, go for RTR's 180's ABS mechanism as a whole to the front and rear.
would cost you a tad more than the front and rear disk assembly, but it will be ABS .....

This would include a new TCI as well as the sensors (in case you wanted to know).

4.

Alloy wheels front and rear will be mandatory if your going for front and rear disk as a whole, otherwise only the front spoke unit can be sourced with the disk setup not the rear.
But i think you shouldn't go for the entire thing, alloys are good only if your considering tubeless tyres, otherwise it doesn't make much of a difference (looks apart).

Bottomline.

Put up a self starter if you wish to, put up the front disk even if you don't wish to, but don't go for the rear disk even if you wish to, and about the alloys, its all upto you.
Either ways, you will need to change your front spoke set to anything with a disk, why not alloys....

I hope this helped.

Dear Nano, Thanks a lot!! for the advice and guidance, AFAIK.. only possible mod are now front disc brakes (Pulsar), alloy wheels and Rtr 180 kit later.
work needs to be done for electric starter quite impossible here so it will have to be kept in backburner

P220 piston? interesting.If you go for that,your current sleeve will be removed and a new sleeve will be put and that means the life will depend on it's quality.So think about it.My suggestion would be to go for the next size piston of the RTR180 by re-boring the stock sleeve.

I'll tell you what i'd do.I would find a used bore of a RTR and bore it out to put a new sleeve for the P220 piston.That is, keep the existing RTR bore of yours as it is(re-bore it).

Every mm increase in bore or stroke makes a difference.But a increase of bore size, from 62.5mm to 65.5mm(ZMA/ZMR) ,or 67mm(P220) will make the performance improvement really tangible.