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  • Originally posted by gixxer_junkie_m View Post
    Screw eh? don't give him any ideas!! already he's looking for anushka shettty's clone/curves!! With the kinda weather that is there!! it might put a much bigger hole in his pocket than a darker spark plug!!
    Ooopps..I guess i got carried away and typed like we normally speak...
    When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

    Comment


    • Originally posted by psr View Post
      Glad you are realistic and didn't ask for dark brown tip. which would have made the mix very rich and a hole in your pocket.
      You should screw AFR out by one turn and observe plug after 200 kms ride.
      Have done that Sir, turned it by about 3/4th of a turn-it was like this / earlier&is now like this -
      Contrary to what Anand said about the screw thread being too tight, it was very free, luckily!
      I will observe&repost the pic after about 100 kms. or so.

      P.S. Sir, you have really taken a grudge against the CBR, haven't you?
      Quench my thirst with gasoline!

      Comment


      • Originally posted by Sarvajit View Post
        Have done that Sir, turned it by about 3/4th of a turn-it was like this / earlier&is now like this -
        Contrary to what Anand said about the screw thread being too tight, it was very free, luckily!
        I will observe&repost the pic after about 100 kms. or so.

        P.S. Sir, you have really taken a grudge against the CBR, haven't you?
        No grudge, I think Honda had served a half cooked meal at a High Cost and trying to take Indians for a ride. The Thai engine is different than the Indian engine with more power..Honda released CBR without Dealer SVC training,and without even essential spares with the SVC..Many owners have to go without OIL FILTER change at the first Service and oil change, which means that all the small metal pieces ,and debris still keeps running inside the engine killing it slowly....there were no paddock stands with SVC, and to top it all my friend's bike had engine seizure,and a new engine was replaced with a new No.Now my friend has to run to RTO and from pillar to post to get the change done ,and Honda was slow in Giving the letter for the same..Ultimately the bike will have low resale Value...and what improved performance for 1.6L over the other 220s available at half it's price in India ? very marginal...this is what i wish to point out.
        Last edited by psr; 08-03-2011, 02:40 PM.
        When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

        Comment


        • Originally posted by psr View Post
          The Thai engine is different than the Indian engine with more power
          I also felt that after reading reports of top speed which was atleast 10kmph less than a video I saw of a Thai CBR.

          Honda released CBR without Dealer SVC training,and without even essential spares with the SVC.
          Many owners have to go without OIL FILTER change at the first Service and oil change, which means that all the small metal pieces ,and debris still keeps running inside the engine killing it slowly....there were no paddock stands with SVC,
          Precisely my worries before the bike was launched
          1. Long delivery time
          2. Lack of spare parts availability
          3. Poor commitment to service

          And to top it all my friend's bike had engine seizure,and a new engine was replaced with a new No.Now my friend has to run to RTO and from pillar to post to get the change done ,and Honda was slow in Giving the letter for the same..Ultimately the bike will have low resale Value...
          I believe you are referring to Argee's case. I have read through it&really feel sad for what happened. It is totally unacceptable from Honda.

          and what improved performance for 1.6L over the other 220s available at half it's price in India ? very marginal...this is what i wish to point out.
          This is one thing I cannot really comment about, since I haven't ridden the bike, but going by the various owner reviews, the bike is not really that fast, neither is a great handler.
          Many a time I feel R15 is a better bike overall than CBR!
          Quench my thirst with gasoline!

          Comment


          • Originally posted by psr View Post
            and what improved performance for 1.6L over the other 220s available at half it's price in India ? very marginal...this is what i wish to point out.
            Originally posted by Sarvajit View Post
            This is one thing I cannot really comment about, since I haven't ridden the bike, but going by the various owner reviews, the bike is not really that fast, neither is a great handler.
            Many a time I feel R15 is a better bike overall than CBR!
            I'll agree with psr on this.Forget thai spec,india spec etc etc.Look at the other international sites which have dyno'd it on more reliable dyno's than the ones used in thai or indonesia.The same international sites are also quoting the same figures for it,that it will hit 87mph max of actual speed and that too on a slope!
            It's a tourer and not a fire-breather.Just look at what TVS has done with a 150cc liquid cooled underbone!! without the DOHC ,patents etc and running on a 22mm carb!! Within a short time,CBR will be out-gunned for sure from local and Yamaha products i think.
            Life begins, once you hit the power band !!

            Comment


            • Originally posted by gixxer_junkie_m View Post
              I'll agree with psr on this.Forget thai spec,india spec etc etc.Look at the other international sites which have dyno'd it on more reliable dyno's than the ones used in thai or indonesia.The same international sites are also quoting the same figures for it,that it will hit 87mph max of actual speed and that too on a slope!
              It's a tourer and not a fire-breather.Just look at what TVS has done with a 150cc liquid cooled underbone!! without the DOHC ,patents etc and running on a 22mm carb!! Within a short time,CBR will be out-gunned for sure from local and Yamaha products i think.
              I heard that Bajaj is coming out with an entirely spruced up Pulsar range with 4 valves per cylinder engines to take on the these bikes...and with a full fairing ..
              When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

              Comment


              • Originally posted by psr View Post
                I heard that Bajaj is coming out with an entirely spruced up Pulsar range with 4 valves per cylinder engines to take on the these bikes...and with a full fairing ..
                Yes they are and you can bet that the CBR will make a easy target.Honda might have good reliability and refinement advantage over bajaj products with their notorious Dtsi tech.But the KTM badged 200 might take on the CBR and beat it.
                Life begins, once you hit the power band !!

                Comment


                • Originally posted by gixxer_junkie_m View Post
                  Nano has explained very well.I'd ask you to do the same.Which is :-

                  1. Get the front disc brake(It's a must)
                  Options:
                  a. Pulsar disc brake set up with the classic pulsar right fork-leg.This needs,hub,adapter and CBZ classic worm or splendor worm.With the rest of the disc brake parts coming from the existing pulsar range.If you go for alloys then the hub and adapter wont be needed.

                  b. Honda unicorn first gen disc brake set up.(spokes)

                  c. Pricol units of CBZ classic ,or of the Yamaha RXZ.

                  d. The Fiero F2 hub,adapter(If you want use spokes that is) with the RTR160/180 petal disc brake set up.With suzuki Zeus speedo worm.

                  My advise would be to keep the spokes set-up ,as it is stronger and cheaper to maintain than the alloys.Aesthetically too the spokes set-up looks better on current air-cooled engine bikes.

                  Pulsar parts are cheap and easily available and it has a disc rotor which is 1mm thicker than that of the F2/Pricol ones.
                  Thanks! Gixx.., I think You have suggested well that spokes looks are better than Alloys so I m gonna keep those, now I like petal disc of RTR, so what will be the price difference in going for it vs pulsar setup?
                  sigpic
                  Classic Fiero on move again.....

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by Sarvajit View Post
                    +1. psr is right-oily deposits on the plug not a good sign bro. Check if the bike is giving out white smoke then the piston rings are gone.
                    However this much of oil drinking means the bore is mostly damaged. My guess is due to running on too less oil qty.




                    Are you sure OEM plates are only 190 bucks? I think they are around 675 bucks for F2.
                    Also, what are those springs&how much do they cost?


                    Congrats bro! That's a complete restoration! If you don't mind, may I ask how much you have spent?


                    I was advised by my mech. also to change the magnet assembly, but a simple 2-300 buck rewinding did the trick. Bike has no electrical problems now.
                    Also get the fuses checked-as they are old, a few might have melted. 4 out of 6-7 were melted in my case.


                    I also feel the same. Easier to repair in case of bends.
                    If you had asked us this before going for the tyres, I would have told you to get tubeless tyres also if you were too keen on alloys.
                    It pains me to see roadside mechs damaging/bending alloys while they repair punctures in tube type tyres!
                    As for the fuel gauge, I beg to differ with gixxer-there is no sensor. The fuel float has gone for a toss I feel. Mine was also not working, got it replaced for some 300 bucks. Looks like a ball with a rod-like we see in water tanks.
                    Dear sarvajit and all,
                    the restoration cost which incurred
                    Engine reboring + timing chain, rockers, lathe work, etc - Rs5100
                    new carb pilsar 26 mm- Rs 2350
                    new instrument panel (Pricol) - Rs 1100
                    Side panel, TPFC etc - > RS 4000
                    New tank >Rs 4000
                    New Shockers- Rs 1800
                    New tyres Sirac street and M 6....(with tubes) > Rs 2400
                    Chrome plating on silencer and both rims, kick - Rs 1100
                    Leg guard - 450( its rusting now)
                    New handle and grips etc > Rs400
                    New wire hang (Minda) > Rs 900
                    New lock set > Rs 850
                    rear mudguard - Rs 381
                    Painting of chassis and frame ?
                    Front mudguard ?
                    Footsteps ?
                    Regulator?
                    complete headlight assembly ?
                    Headlight's back plastic cover ?

                    as restoration was done from Nov 2010 to May 2011 because I have to wait for many parts so few of things and cost have slipped from my mind
                    sigpic
                    Classic Fiero on move again.....

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Rafting Guru View Post
                      Dear sarvajit and all,
                      the restoration cost which incurred
                      New Shockers- Rs 1800
                      That sounds amazing-did you replace the suspension?
                      I thought you got some repair done?
                      Anyway, all I can say is "Classic Fiero IS on the move again!"!
                      Quench my thirst with gasoline!

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by Rafting Guru View Post
                        Thanks! Gixx.., I think You have suggested well that spokes looks are better than Alloys so I m gonna keep those, now I like petal disc of RTR, so what will be the price difference in going for it vs pulsar setup?
                        Pulsar set-up on my girl had cost me 7k back in 2004.The problem at that time was that the disc brake parts were available from bajaj ASS only and not at other spare shops.Then each part had to be bought individually and not as a kit.So i had to pay tax,vat etc on each and every part individually! Now i don't know,it might be available as a kit and hence might be cheaper.Back then the TVS girling(F2 and Fiero) disc brake kit was costing 6k.But i opted for the pulsar set-up as it was available freely and it was on the right side too.

                        My suggestion would be to buy used parts,i'd do it if i were to do it all over again.You can buy the whole pulsar disc brake set-up for less than 2k i think.

                        If you are interested in the apache petal disc,then you'd better go for the alloy wheels too,because it would need F2's hub in case you want to use the spoke set-up and F2 hub is pretty much impossible to find.

                        My advise? go for the pulsar set-up.Either you opt for spoke pulsar set-up ,or the alloy one .They both will be cheaper now than what i paid for the same and if you are averse to buying used parts.You can source the same pulsar ones from spares shops too, cheaply.In case,if you are ok with used parts,then go for the alloy used wheels of the pulsar and mix them with new disc brake parts etc.
                        Last edited by gixxer_junkie_m; 08-04-2011, 06:51 PM.
                        Life begins, once you hit the power band !!

                        Comment


                        • @Rafting Guru

                          Engine reboring + timing chain, rockers, lathe work, etc - Rs5100 NEw RTR bore kit=2,300 + used RTR head= 1000

                          New Shockers- Rs 1800 Reconditioning the same 150 bucks ,my bike has it and it's better than pulsar's gas shox
                          Chrome plating on silencer and both rims, kick - Rs 1100 You could have gone for new rims itself for a total cost of 500 bucks
                          Leg guard - 450( its rusting now) Go for RTR one
                          complete headlight assembly ? Opt for classic pulsar or that of the FX
                          Headlight's back plastic cover ?

                          My answers in bold.
                          Life begins, once you hit the power band !!

                          Comment


                          • @gixxer_junkie_m: As you might already know, I turned the carb screw by 3/4th turn day before yesterday.
                            Generally the bike starts up in a single kick without opening the throttle, but yesterday it did not.
                            It took 3-4 kicks&finally I opened the throttle&she came to life.
                            I felt that the engine was a bit smoother (with a worn out camchain it won't make much difference but still) but the idling was low.
                            I just rode for 3-4 kms., will check again in a day or two over a longer distance.
                            My question is: Do I need to set the idling also after this? Does richening AFR make the idling go low?
                            Quench my thirst with gasoline!

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by Sarvajit View Post
                              @gixxer_junkie_m: As you might already know, I turned the carb screw by 3/4th turn day before yesterday.
                              Generally the bike starts up in a single kick without opening the throttle, but yesterday it did not.
                              It took 3-4 kicks&finally I opened the throttle&she came to life.
                              I felt that the engine was a bit smoother (with a worn out camchain it won't make much difference but still) but the idling was low.
                              I just rode for 3-4 kms., will check again in a day or two over a longer distance.
                              My question is: Do I need to set the idling also after this? Does richening AFR make the idling go low?
                              Check the plug now itself.There's no need to run her for 100 or 1000k(you prefer ) and don't play with the idling screw.
                              All these,that is A/F and idling are to be done together to tune the carb.But since you are new to it,leave it as it is.
                              Life begins, once you hit the power band !!

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by gixxer_junkie_m View Post
                                Check the plug now itself.There's no need to run her for 100 or 1000k(you prefer ) and don't play with the idling screw.
                                All these,that is A/F and idling are to be done together to tune the carb.But since you are new to it,leave it as it is.
                                That is all I wanted to know. I'm not new to idling adjustment bro-have done it many times earlier. Will check out the idling in a day or two after riding for a slightly longer distance.
                                As for the spark plug, I'll ride it alteast for 100 kms. before pulling it out to see the color!
                                Quench my thirst with gasoline!

                                Comment

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