Direct in the sense that I can simply remove Fiero's swing arm and put in RTR's?

Another query, what about the shock mounts? Does the angle of them changes, considering that RTR swing arm would be longer. Thanks.

Sorry was asking this but its a case of once bitten twice shy. A few years back I was told that Victor swing arm is a direct fit on Fiero & when I confidently told this to the mech, he went ahead and bought the swing arm and while fitting it was found that the alignment isn't correct, it needs some jugad work.

aah good question

Fierosutra or you can say Fiero-Tantra/SriVidya

That looks like some serious mud-plugging!

Tell me which bike's intake-manifold clamp's that?because it looks like the ones used to fit the hoses and from my experience with using similar clamps for the oil-cooler hoses.They are very good.The prob i've been facing is with the carb getting blown out with a loud bang, due to high compression when starting the bike and last time around this was solved by getting the carb tuned on a CO machine.I've been thinking of installing the suzuki GS150R's intake manifold clamp ,or to sort it out by getting this 29mm carb tuned on a CO machine as well.
The thread of the clutch cover oil line is shredded on my bike,but the stock banjo bolt is ok and hence it's been used.The mech did that and subsequently the oil-cooler output line has been given to the head.As it's a harder metal mix than the clutch cover.
Nothing's that simple You'd need swing-arm pivot bolt,axle bolt,spacers,brake rod etc of the RTR 160.But,if you are ok with all these,then it's a direct fit according to the mech.He has done it many times and the Victor Glx swing-arm is the preferred one ,as it will keep the wheel-base short.If you want more info,i'll give you his number.
The same shox can be used , albeit with the help of increasing their length with bushes which are available.That's because,as you've mentioned the swing-arm shox mount will be further back,thus needing a increase in shox length/height.

See, buying stuff and fixing them is not a big deal but when you got to fabricate/mod something to fit, there is an issue. As here, there aren't many people who are willing to fabricate/mod anything.
Let me see if I can find some RTR160/Victor Glx for test purpose.

I think in that case, the pulsar gas shocks that I have should work fine. As pulsar shocks had increased the height due to them being a bit longer than the stock/victor's gas shocks(me currently running).

@All

Like i mentioned a few posts back,i did a 500km+ trip to mysore about a month back and the air temp was hovering around 38 deg c.The oil-cooler addition was tested out in this way,though engine never heats up when doing highway runs(without oil-cooler ie) and the oil-cooler's earns its worth on city's traffic laden roads. But still the oil-cooler works really well,as i have been checking as to how quickly it cools down once the bike starts moving after idling at signals/jams.
The main reason of the trip was to visit my Fav goddess Temples of Chamundeshwari ,Nanjangud,Temple at Mysore palace and other temples in and around mysore.It went well and what i noticed was that the bike needs taller gearing.That is ,even with the 14T front sprocket(Yam YBX),on downshifting to 2nd gear,it used to feel like hitting a wall at low speeds because of the higher grunt from increased cc's and compression.So on my return i've put the RX135's 15T GB sprocket.I had been using the very same sprocket when the bike was stock and had done a few highway runs to bangalore from mysore etc back then.The bike in stock spec used to cruise effortlessly at 100 kmph,that too with a 58kg pillion.In stock spec the acceleration was missing and it was almost impossible to put the bike in top-gear when riding within city traffic laden roads.So i had this sprocket with me from over 9 years and i decided to use it once again.Now the acceleration has gone down,but the bike can easily run in top-gear on city roads.
The bike hits 80 kmph like with half an inch of throttle on highways with the 14T that is.So now with the 15T the gearing has become much taller and i'd like to check it out on a highway run once again.

The next thing on my agenda is some engine-head work by Mr Venugopal.I met him yesterday to discus the same and i'm thinking of his 29mm intake valve installation on the stock fiero head. Yes i know,that a 29mm valve would hit the exhaust valve on a fiero head.But Mr Venugopal does a modification job which makes it possible.He has worked on a fiero to make it hit 143kmph actual speed.So let's see.

Other update is that the bike's running on Gulf Pride 20W50 and it's a good oil which surprisingly is actually cheaper than shell !!

No fabrications needed.That's what i meant when i said that it was a direct fit.I asked him specifically about the tyre hitting the rear mud guard,because i had read here that it might need "jugaad" and he assured me nothing like that would happen.This mech knows what he's talking about, as he does such works to prepare rally bikes.So i confidently told you guys here what he said.Maybe with the fitting of a bush,which incidentally is readily available here,the shox length will increase and thus ensuring the tyre won't hit the rear mud-guard.What most of the time is needed in such modification works is a knowledgeable mech.So think about it.

Thanks.. I have a race in 2 months..(And exams next week.. ) i'll post the pics of the race.. BTW, i'm just a beginner.. I race in beginners and stock category(yamaha ybx).. I'm learning to ride from a 33 year old guy who has 10 years of experience and has a lot of podium finishes to his name... Even with his tons of experience and with his mighty RXG, he finds it very difficult to beat me and my fiero in the start.. he catches me either in the first or second corner(although i try to block him with my long legs by covering half the track )..I'm not boasting myself, but my fiero is really a kick ass machine.. i just want to make a few podiums to establish myself as a good Tuner.. And i have a good news for you!! Thats a secret for you to be unlocked in private messages..

I guess this thread should be renamed as Fiero/SriVidya ownership thread!!
No offence buddy.. Just kidding..

Guess what!! I had more mud on my clothes than my bike..
you are right.. Thats a clamp used to fit water hoses in Ambassador radiator.. .. Even i had serious carb blow out issue when i used bs26 and 29(Thunderbird's).. But it never happened after installing the vm24.. Maybe if you get an RX carb, try it bro... Pulls me better..

OT:Yamaha RX135 complete engine rebuild pics

Guessed as much.How do you make the fork inner tubes last?That kinda mud on em would ruin the oil-seals and the fork tubes?Anyone using rubber covers on em?
Will try out that clamp then.About the carb,you need bottom-end and mid-range,were as for me it's all about big bore carbs.

The dust shield alone is doing great dude.. Haven't had any fork issues from the beginning of time.. Most of them use rubbers, but i guess its unnecessary.. I'd be happy if my oil seal tears.. I haven't touched my fork for more than 2 years now..
Just try it dude.. It really gives a crisp throttle response.. Maybe you can borrow a RX carb and give some feedback!! If you want big bore carb, you can also try a vm28 RD350 carb... Very hard to get one though!!

Update on my Fiero:
I checked out the head oil bolt and it was fine.. The Head gasket has given up and it was leaking through the timing chain passage way in the cylinder... This caused oil to exit out of the breather tube!! Bloody thing gave up even after sticking with araldite!! Does anyone have any idea of what i can do?? I have used anabond, 3 bond, Yamaha 3m, etc.. Nothing holds my gasket permanently.. I have no interest in reducing the compression... i use enough torque to tight the stud nuts..

Knock knock,is there no one in this house????

Just popped by to say that this product rocks!
Used it for a couple of months before posting a thumbs up about it here. Makes lubing super-easy and non-messy.

Gone to view SBKs .

Can any one post me a picture or specification of fiero self motor, one side clutch/bearing, relay/ coupling gear at magnet.

since i was collecting spares for my Suzuki Classic fiero i thought of restoring along with selfstart.

Hey Guys, whats up?? i have come back after a very long time!!!
Now everyones very unhappy about the recent petrol price hike, it costs almost 79Rs for a litre of pet in pune.. And my office is located about 55kms away from my house. So it means a good 110km ride bothways..and as you all know our bikes and all the newer 150cc bikes in the market have a avg of 52-55kmpl, so it has become very very uneconomical for me. i end up spending 150Rs worth of petrol everyday. And there is no local transport available upto my office. So guys i am planning to buy a economical bike (100-125cc) segment.. Can u guys please suggest me one, which shall be economical, reliable and also i should be able to use it for a min of upto 8 yrs just like my current F2... Any brands including TVS would be a welcome.... And i would be keeping my F2 as well..!!! Thnx a lot!!

@ vijaymeyou

I had got the work done, all you need is RTR's parts like flywheel, step down gear and one way bearing, the starter motor of rtr might fit, i got a fiero one though.
You can ask the service manual of rtr 180 at any TVS spare part dealer (that's what i did) and mention the parts that you want.

@ tintin

Petrol is 78.something here in Mumbai as well.
I would say go for twister.
Its not a very good bike to ride, but returns a decent mileage.
Or probably go for some FI bike, My friend's ZMR returns 55~60 kmpl (very hard to believe I know) I've used the bike personally for a week and known this myself.
I read an article back in 2009 i guess in Bike India where they had tested the mileage of almost all the commuter bikes, and Glamor FI topped the sheets with somewhere around 70ish figure.

@ all and GIX

I've got my run-in competed and first service done.
Changed the clutch plates for the 5th time and got a new clutch cable too as the previous one was twisted in 2~3 places.
The bike feels like a breeze.
As now its 1mm over the stock rtr 180 now, its at the maximum capacity it has ever been.
The shortage of 5th gear is much more disappointing now.
All that knocking has disappeared and the bike is real smooth.

I guess the re-bore is always a better option than a bore kit, bike never felt this smooth even when the new bore kit was installed.
When i was riding back home like a demon from the mech's place after the oil change, those words of gix came into my mind.
he said once "a proper re-bore from an expert is even better than new bore kit in terms of reliability".
I guess all my bike related problems have come to an end now.