Re: Suzuki GS150R

Originally posted by dip097 View Post

I will try that. Seems good idea.

Originally posted by dip097 View Post

GIXER is 160 cc like Yamaha FZ.

It is not a good idea as high beam is essential at least when riding uphill with a right curve. Try to adjust the beam as shown here.
There are rumors that it is 150 or 155 cc. The mechanic’s training for their new scooter LET’S is over but for the GIXXER it is pending. So, as far as Suzuki hides the details as they did when the modified GS was introduced, nobody – including the leading dealers - knows what it actually is.
Yamaha Fazer, FZ16, FZS, SZ-S and SZ-R is 153 (exactly 152.98) cc; not 160.
“You can believe in stones as far as you don’t throw them at me”.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

In order figure out the cause of the issue(uneven throttle response below 3k RPM) I planned to start with Fuel Tank cleaning. My 3 yr old nephew(with his buddy[4yr]) poured about mug of sand(dry soil) on fuel tank cap. Took me more than 2 hours to clean it using oily kitchen cloth as couple of spoonful seeped inside. Oh, he's responsible for more than 50% scratches on my GS150R.

- Fuel level indicator started to blink after riding it in reserve, don't know how long.
- Tried to take out the petrol as we(dad & me) did in two strokes; but fuel hose was firm couldn't do it.
- In a flash I remember Carb float bowl. Removed more than a litre of Gasoline(Petrol) by loosening the drain screw. That's how they steal, huh!



It's 2.25ltr Sprite can & there's about 1.25ltr of petrol. I drained with bike in centre stand, so I believe there's still some left in the tank.

Current spark-plug is third one and about 5k kms old. I checked it today and it was fine.
How do you clean it? I did however scrape off
How do you adjust the gap? I don't have necessary tools to measure the gap.

It was reported as Suzuki Gixxer 155 in the initial scoops. Suzuki later called it just as Suzuki Gixxer in Auto-Expo 2014 & spec chart said 150cc !!!

Oh yes, it's going to compete against Yamaha FZ16/FZ-S.


Nice link,

- 10m distance is advised, but proportionally one can adjust.
- always a person to be seated without centre stand during adjustment

I adjusted on the road out side my house, considering 72 km/h night speed => 20m/s => high beam to light up around 15-25m* from where the bike was standing. Earlier high beam was directed towards infinity, such a waste of light.

*: `sitting in chair` estimation figures.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

My chain had lot of slack so decided to adjust it. I was unable to loosen the spocket drum nut/sleeve nut with my "Kalyani brand" ring spanner! Further, it almost made some marks on the nut - like what a cat makes on a furniture.

Punvarvasu earlier suggested to me to use Taparia/Everest sockets - got a Taparia socket set/T-handle and the sprocket drum was undone with ease (I had to put my enitre upper body weight to loosen it).

I painted my Eterno's rusting exhaust with "engine block paint" - I think that is what you are suggesting..



Are you planning to replace them (exhaust mounting bolts on engine head) yourself or at SVC? - They should be tightened to a specific torque, no?

I once stuffed a waste cloth into the exhaust pipe of my Dad's Kinetic Honda, got caught the second day while doing the same . So are you planning on cleaning the fuel filter too - the one attached to the fuel cock - I guess GS has one.

+1. On very very poorly lit roads, high beam can help one miss drunkards dancing in the middle. Thanks for the link - have added that to my DIY-to-do list.

Coming back to my sprocket drum nut story:

I have now dismantled the rear wheel, brake and all and brought it home. Some observations/doubts:

1. Brake pads are slightly glazed - will rub them with emery paper and put them back.
2. Is "brake centering" absolutely required - manual doesn't mention to do the same - do you guys do that before tightening the axle nut?
3. I guess there are 3 bearings - 2 in the wheel and one on the sprocket - can I pack grease (one of them appears to have a metallic looking dust seal) or are
they better left alone (sealed, maintenance free)?
4. Will clean most parts in Kerosene before putting them back. Also, the insides of the swing arm are rusting - guess a treatment with Kerosene/Old engine oil
will do good.
5. Manual doesn't mention loosening the torque link nut for simple chain slack adjustment - have they missed something there?
6. How often should we grease the swing arm bearings (I didn't remove it this time)?
7. I don't have a torque wrench , so my tightening of the axle+sprocket drum nut is going to guesstimated.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

What i mean is if GIXER is 155-153 cc it might be called GIXXER 16 or GIXXER 160 like yamaha FZ16. And considering the fact that it produces 16 BHP, there are chances that it can be more than 150CC.

In the case of Headlight adjustment, i am quoting from the link you provided- "If you are lighting up the mirrors of an average-sized car in front, yours are probably too high. Mine seem to sit about number-plate height on the average sedan." This is what i am looking forward to.

Clean spark plug with a sand paper. I use Buffalo Feeler gauge, which cost RS.150 for adjusting the gap.


When it comes to socket sets, there are two types. One is 6-point-

and other is 12 point.

12 point is better because it provide better load distribution and support further more types of bolt/nut heads. It also keeps nuts and bolts in better shape. Proper ring spanner is equally good as as a 12-point socket set. It seems your "Kalyani" is not up to the mark. Buy one from Stanley or Taparia.

I was referring to the paint that is used to coat exhaust system of GS150R / any other bikes. If engine block paint is standing to the heat coming from the exhaust of enterno, it must be sufficient. Where did you bought this paint?.

My answers are in blue.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

As dip097 and others would say, that ring spanner is off the mark(off standards). I've seen nuts/bolts with uneven forging too, quality comes with a price. And that torque-link/torque-bar nut/bolt are prone to lot of mud/muck exposure. I too was afraid that I might break it during loosening.

I don't know, If I get a pair of those bolts, nobody is stopping me. I've seen SVC/ASS people adjusting chain slackness with tools you & I use. No torque wrench was in sight.
It felt like a vinyl/plastic nuts under fuel knob. We'll see anyway, I'm not touching Carb now. Tank -> AirFilter -> SparkPlug then Carb...
I don't believe in it. I give more importance to wheel alignment to chain rotation. My wheel rotates like that of a bicycle, hardly did two revolutions when SVC/ASS had their hands on it. NOTE: they do that keeping in mind of 2000 km service interval. We can't just point at them.
Apparently they're (sealed, maintenance free). I see a point in grease repack if you're in remote area, replace them instead if necessary. However, last time I did sprocket change I couldn't resist from applying few drops of EP90 oil.
I don't know, however adjusting slackness between services shouldn't need changes in torque link(drum) position.
I don't know what you're referring to here. A picture perhaps?
It shouldn't kill you. ;-)

Jeezy Creezy, all this for chain slack adjustment?

PS: I'm not encouraging DIY, but I see no other way to know your bike better.

On-line prices that I checked were bloated, ₹ 150/- seems reasonable. I didn't use sand paper but a paper cutter blade.
Apparently this is only for bikes with drum brakes. Before tightening the rear axle nut/bolt you press(engage) rear break and then tighten them. This is supposed to retain the maximum breaking power, but totally relies on wearing of break pads; wheel alignment in some case may get skewed(screwed).
Yes, the naming convention is confusing. It's the bar/rod that holds rear drum brake assembly in place to counteract break force.


Oops! too much waste of time...

Re: Suzuki GS150R

I think the power produced is not directly proportional to the CC of the engine. See the details of a few bikes. Of course the maximum power produced is at different engine RPM and the torque produced too is different.


As far as I know or what I understand is that the power output depends on the torque and engine rpm and torque – the twisting force - and at which RPM it is produced is important; not the bhp – the work done by the engine.
Anyway, let us hope Gixxer will be with more torque at lower RPM with a suitable gear ratio as in GS favoring speed, pickup and FE even if its engine is 150 cc.


SparKot,

Most of the mechanics are not using torque wrench to tighten any bolt. For them the torque applied depends on their muscle power.

The best way to clean the tank is taking it out, cleaning and refitting at the SC.

Buy a feeler gauge or Iridium plug.

Those who use socket spanner buy an extension bar like this to apply more torque.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

@punarvasu

Power produced is proportional to the CC of the engine. You cannot produce 100BHP from a 100CC motor. But you may be able to produce power in the region of 7-13BHP. R15 produces 17 Bhp because it is a 4 valve fuel injected motor. But in the case of GS150R it s a twin valve carbureted motor, that is why it produces 13.8 BHP. I did't saw any where that GIXXER is a 4-valve and fuel injected. So it might be a 150-155CC bike.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Gixxer is not fuel injected nor it is gonna be 4 valve motor, because they have also to keep the price under control , it is an simple two valve motor, power figures aren't disclosed by the company yet but since suzuki is launching this model to fight directly with Yamaha Fzs, so the bhp will be slight more or equivalent to Yamaha.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

My suggestions in Blue lettering.

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Today found two new things.
I adjusted the headlamp focus and found the pattern on the road similar to this.


It is the first time i am adjusting the headlamp since i bought the bike.
Secondly, i found that there are some dust accumulated near the carburetor due to some moisture ie. petrol. Anyone else have a dusty carb?.

Suzuki GS150R Tank Removal

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1. Removed the seat, saw 10mm bolts at the bottom of tank.

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2. Removed 10mm bolts, and fuel hose from tank to carburetor. Detach Fuel float wiring.


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Rubber cushion for tank:


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3. Lifted the tank keeping in mind the waste pipes
Tank belly:

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4. Attached the piece from AirVent(pipe) to fuel to drain remaining petrol

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5. Got another litre of Petrol to my surprise. There were particles floating/swimming inside petrol.
Green(2.25 Ltr) bottle & Transparent(2.0Ltr) bottle. It can safely said that there will be more than 2.0L of petrol in tank even if the Fuel-Indicator blinks.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
6. Interestingly there was some petrol inside. Removed 10mm bolts holding FuelKnob.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
7. Shook the tank like a baby playing with a toy. Petrol was all over the floor when I tried to pour it into a mug... LOL Fine particles were found in the collected petrol.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
8. There was fine mesh/filter in fuel knob setup. Different(mutually exclusive) values for normal & reserve positions; much like bathroom shower setup.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
9. Removed fuel strainer vinyl/plastic cap, been extra careful with the fragile looking setup. I found very fine metal/sand particles in there. Cleaned it with waste(clean) cloth.


One such Iron/metal filing got stuck in my finger:




That's it! refitted back all parts in reverse order.

- wiped dust settled on underbelly and at other locations while putting parts back in place.
- AirVent & WaterWaste pipe were fine, tested by blowing air slowly.
- lubed moving parts, joints etc. Grease on clutch lever. etc etc
- Fuel indicator was blinking even with empty tank!, I thought it was saying `I don't know, you're on your own!`
- Carefully/Slowly poured around 2 ltr of petrol which was collected, making sure particles stayed back in bottle. Fuel indicator was still blinking as expected.
- connected fuel hose/pipe back to carburetor & loosened drain screw to let fresh petrol to come in.
- rode to nearest Petrol-Pump for a ₹500/- worth petrol @ ₹77.77/Ltr

NOTE: GS150R's fuel tank is more than foolproof !!!. RPM fluctuation was still there as expected.

Re: Suzuki GS150R Tank Removal

The maximum power output of a certain 124.8 cc engine is 33.3 bhp while another 124.8 cc engine produces mere 15 bhp. Output from a 1670 cc engine is 88.8 bhp and of another 1679 cc (just 9 cc more than the former) engine is 197.4 bhp. Here how is the power output proportionate to engine cc? This is what I said or tried to say: engine cc is not the one and only factor deciding power output.
And I too don’t think the new Gixxer will be of 160 cc. It may be 155 cc or, most probably, 150 cc. I prefer a 150 cc engine with more torque to a 160 or more cc engine with lesser torque, provided torque of both is at almost the same RPM. That is why I prefer Duke 200 to P200 NS. That is why I hate CBR 150R.
August is just three and an half months away. Let us wait.
About the headlight, there is a picture in page 1203.
And that extension bar is used to loosen or tighten the axle nuts.

Excellent. Congratulations. Please add this page to your links in firs page.

Auxiliary pictures, issues & rants

Naming conventions are my own for I don't know what they're called; just extrapolated(guessed).

Fuel strainer screen: much like Engine Oil Strainer screen.


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1. Tank with fuel cap/lock removed:


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2. Two dummy hex/allen screws in tank cap:


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3. Corroded(paint is peeling) front disk brake master cylinder with 3yr old brake liquid(probably DOT3), it was dark pinkish when bike was bought, now plain water colour.


Note: replace brake liquid every 12 months if possible & 24 months at the most. Anti-corrosive additives only last that long.

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4. One of the bolts of battery cage is broken at head and bottom part is still inside the nut!!! a decapitated bolt, eh?



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5. Under seat rubber bush gone(kaput): need replacements



FunFact: Posting over here took more time than the actual process. This revelation inspires me all the more, in the light of all those who do post diligently.

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Similar pattern here, asymmetrical light spread annoys me a little. It's the bulb's orientation & can be corrected isn't it?
Believe me, scratches I've on my GS are overwhelming. I owe most of them to my Lota(nephew).

punarvasu is one of the top-most contributor to this thread. Many owners(new) with issues often find confidence in his responses(posts).

It is directly proportional btw, if one plots a graph it'll be evident. However there is variance, reflecting design trade-offs, quality, price-tag, efficiency etc... It's unfair to compare 2t to 4t, naturally aspirated to forced, carburetor to FI, first gen to latest. Co-relation between capacity(cc) and power delivery is there and it's direct if not linear.

We can't deny, experience carries more weight in any line of life/work/etc. An experienced mechanic will be adept to tighten the bolts with bare tools & muscle power. Yes, SVC/ASS is the best place to get one's motorcycle serviced; no denying there. I'll visit on nontrivial necessities.

I've the bottom L lever(extension) for sockets; very useful during engine-oil drainage. I'll buy feeler gauge, Iridium spark-plugs are out of my comfort zone as of now.

Same feelings here, an 150cc engine. To repeat, an engine with flatter/smooth torque curves with not lags in RPM range.

Thanks to you in the first place.

Re: Auxiliary pictures, issues & rants

I think it is intentionally designed like that to prevent glare to the on coming traffic. But i usually gets many dim/bright signal from the oncoming traffic due to slightly higher lower beam.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

sure.. just let me know when you are going next time.. I want someone else to try my bike to verify the power lack problem. wanna know whether am imagining it or not. ! !

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Thanks for the suggestions ashwanth ! everything seems to be normal now after the clutch cable replacement. earlier the clutch was kind of tight and now the new one is so smooth.

i too use toe shifting. am used to it

engine oil is shell 10W40 . its time to replace it.. more than 2500 kms done since last oil change

now a days, am driving more calmly for better mileage. No aggressive acceleration. hence no "Constipated shifts" i believe.

chain lubing is done at the service center during the service. yet to start maintenence by myown. i have no experience in it and i seriouly doubt how well it would go!! so not taking the risk

Blip throttle ?

i dont have a clue why the engine mounting bolt was replaced. only the cashier and few salesmen was there when i went to collect the bike that day ( it was post 7 o clock). he didnt had a specific answer for it..

yup.. the warranty is gone now. . How often do you give your bike for service? other owners ? do we have to go at regluar 50 days / 2500 kms even now ?

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Never.
No. Just replace the oil and oil filter at every 2000-2500 or 3000 kms, clean and adjust the gap of the spark plug in every 2000 kms and replace it in 8000-12000 kms, clean the air cleaner in every 2000 kms and replace in 12,000 kms, check the tyre pressure and inflate if necessary and wash and wax the bike regularly and lubricate and tighten the chain in every 750-1000 kms. You can do all these yourself.