Re: Suzuki GS150R : Adjusting Rear Suspension

I can only guess, your mouse is faulty; assuming you use mouse to select text.

It doesn't include the scenario when brake fluid is drawn from Master-Cylinder.

We both know, you're not guessing.

Re: Suzuki GS150R : Adjusting Rear Suspension

I don't have any problem with any body, i just shared what is my view of it. I am also happy that i got Rs. 350 (courtesy of punarvasu ) back and i don't think asking anything more is justifiable, considering the fact that they charged exactly what is recommended by suzuki. I cannot ask more.

How did you know that somebody told me so?. It is from my experience

Say what else you learned.

I don't have any statistics about the GS's rear suspension damage. I am not saying it will last long or get damaged early, what i said was i heard something from somebody. By sturt i mean not exactly that, but you know what Gs's rear suspension looks like, imagine it without the springs.

Leaking is there but, i later found out that the oil is coming through the camshaft cover. I removed it, cleaned and re fitted it. Will take some time to conform the head gasket is all right though.

You missed forward slash in "[/QUOTE]", that is causing the problem.

Re: Suzuki GS150R : Adjusting Rear Suspension


A big zero and nothing more.

Re: Suzuki GS150R : Adjusting Rear Suspension

What are you talking about?

Re: Suzuki GS150R : Adjusting Rear Suspension

My GS150R is due for 2nd service this week. I feel that the engine is getting heated up quickly and so I am thinking of changing the engine oil to 20w50 rather than manufacturer recommended 20w40. Is 20w50 easily available in market? Any possible side effects on engine life on using 20w50? Has anybody used 20w50 earlier?

Re: Suzuki GS150R : Adjusting Rear Suspension

Engine heat is felt when bike is new. I switched to castrol Activ in second service and from third service to power 1. Currently i don't feel any engine heat.
Castrol has 15w-50 version of power 1 but the website says it is meant "for performance as its protects engine from the build-up of power robbing deposit". You can find the store from their website.

Re: Suzuki GS150R : Adjusting Rear Suspension

Engine heating and viscosity of the oil are not interrelated. The heat you feel is mainly due to the ambient temperature and lack of air flow around the engine while stopped at signals without switching off the engine.
The numbers 20 and 50 does not mean it is suitable for any temperature between 20 and 50 degree C. The 20 before the ‘W’ denotes it is suitable for cold start at any ambient temperature from zero degree C and the 50, its viscosity at 100 degree C, the engine operating temperature.
Low viscosity oils – generally- are for high revving engines and vice versa. GS’s engine is designed for xxW- 40 oil which flows more easily than xxW-50.

Now the ambient temperature here at my town is 37 degree C and at Chennai it is 34. I too am using Castrol 15W-40 Power 1 SS oil.
Nobody has complained about GS’s engine seizing due to this heat. So, stick to the 20W-40 oil recommended by Suzuki or change to any 10W-40 or 15W-40 and switch off the engine at stops. That saves fuel too.

Re: Suzuki GS150R : Multigrade Engine Oil

Motor oil - Wikipedia

Consider a SAE J300 grade 20w40 Engine Oil, 20 is the viscosity of base(petroleum byproducts) oil at room-temp. To this base oil one or more VIIs(Viscosity Index Improvers- Wikipedia) are added to raise viscosity of mixture @100⁰ C(standards).

1. Why viscosity of a multi-grade oil is low at room temp, but high @100⁰ C ?

The VIIs are said be long polymers which curl up @room temperature. I don't know, may be they form week bonds like in water, benzene or complex chemicals(OT). These curled up polymers open up and elongate with rise in temperature. Long molecules obstruct laminar flow & hence increase viscosity. So, low viscosity for easy engine starts. Consider 4-wheeler where you can't kick-start them, easy start is/was a vital requirement. In good old days single grade engine-oil gave nightmares to people living above tropical belt in winters. Hence, multi-grade came out.

I think motorcycle manufacturers test their engine with various eng-oil from business partners and recommend one for optimal performance to a given region(like India).

By the time oil runs 2000-3000 kms in an engine, the base(winter) viscosity remains almost same. But additives degrade, break up & what not(sheared); hence it's not surprising to find a 20w40 oil reduced to 20w35 grade, or even to 20w30; totally depends on the quality of VIIs & status of engine.

Viscosity of a liquid is measured by:
- time taken by liquid of certain volume to pass through a standard orifice.
- rate at which liquid passes through a standard orifice; i.e. using units like mm²/s
- ...

cheers

Re: Suzuki GS150R : Multigrade Engine Oil

There was a mistake which was added later in my post. Thanks for pointing it out.

Suzuki GS150R : Engine-Oil replacement, Filter replacement : Periodic Maintenance

I had 1800 km Shell Ax7 10w40 inside. There was nothing wrong with the oil or the feel I was getting while revving. However, I had 300 ml of 10w30, left over from Dio's oil change several weeks back. 1L full bottle of 15w50 oil sitting in the shelf for few months now; both from Motul 5100 Semi-Synths series. I had bought Oil-Filter & O-Rings that go with it several months back. I said heck, let's change it today.

I planned to mix 300ml of 10w30 with 700ml of 15w50; going by ratio of proportions:

(0.3L * 10w) + (0.7L * 15w) = 3 + 10.5 = 13.5w base oil grade of 1L

(0.3L * w30) + (0.7L * w50) = 9 + 35 = w44 additives grade of 1L

Roughly, it's 1L of 13.5w44 in the engine.

I will mix them 50:50 next time & roughly come up with 12.5w40 grade Semi-Synth. Oh, Motul 5100 10w40 is not available in India(I guess).

__________________
1. Purchased Oil-Filter & O-Rings; should cost around ₹ 50/-


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2. Purchased Motul 5100 10w30 & 15w50, both costing ₹ 500+ i.e. like 520 or 530...
Tools required


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3. Use 17mm socket together with Lever to loosen the drain bolt; place a bowl/container underneath to collect drained engine oil. Visualize anti-clockwise rotation before putting force on the lever, coz I've seen couple of mechanics(Shell) doing otherwise(i.e. tightening).

Oil draining:


Oil drained looked healthy, there was pleasant smell emanating from it. So, I decided not to mix it with old drained oil.


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4. I wanted to see/check oil-strainer this time. Decided to remove Oil-Strainer plate using 8mm ring spanner


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5. Strainer-Plate came off and a photo for you. Inspected threads on Drain-Bolt & strainer-plate, they looked fine(I'm happy).



And the most eluding Engine-Oil Strainer-Screen:


I was very curious to look beyond this screen. One of the screw was adamant, didn't budge; had to put back the other screw. Cleaned the screen with clean cloth.
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6. Cleaned Strainer-Plate, O-Ring & bolts using kerosene as there was lot of dirt/muck sticking to it.




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7. Applied some lithium based grease around the O-Ring & in the groove where it sits. Put back strainer-plate assembly in reverse order.

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8. Now that strainer screen is checked & cleaned, we move on to Oil-Filter. Use 8mm T-Spanner to remove filter cover bolts & a nose-plier on oil-filler cap.

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9. Removed Oil-Filter, take a look at oil-filter chamber:


Now the removed parts:


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10. Let's replace old parts with new ones:



I applied some lithium based grease on to O-Ring and the groove in which it sits. Put back Oil-Filter & cap then bolt them. Only use strength in your fingers to tighten those bolts(as Vishnu says), not your arm, not even your wrist strength.
__________________

11. And finally filling empty oil sump with fresh oil:


Filled 300ml of 10w30 & 700ml of 15w50 oil through Oil-filler hole using a funnel. Motul oil cans come with embossed measurement marker for easy reference. I replaced filler cap & tightened it with nose-plier. I poured drained shell oil back into 10w30 empty can.



Voila, it's done.

Bullets:

• Use only finger strength to tighten filter-cap bolts
• Use only wrist strength to tighten drain-bolt & a little less on strainer-plate bolts.
• Since we are working with oil, hands will become slippery don't forget it.
• be careful while cleaning around metal parts, esp lathed ones will be sharp if not razor sharp. you might cut yourself
• clean your hands thoroughly using soap & warm water several time to get rid of oil from your skin.
• drained-oil is dangerous, contain it properly & participate in recycling. I've a 5L oil can, waiting for it to fill.

Have fun...

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

I took a photo today, have a look. Bulb has skewed orientation:



Am I right here?

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Thanks a lot dip097, punarvasu and Sparkot for helping me as usual.


@dip097,

Sockets I got are 12-point (Taparia). I got that "engine block" paint from a hardware store and yes, it stayed good for 2 years till I exchanged my Eterno for a GS in ABT Suzuki, Nandanam. Eterno - all of them rusted very badly. Later discovered a shop that sells automotive paints, got a matt black spray paint and coated the rusting steel rims too. Brake centering is: before tightening the axle nut, we rotate the rear tyre, stab the rear brake and tighten the axle nut before releasing the brake pedal. Didn't do it this time. Torque link nut/rod setup is the one that keeps the rear brake shoe assembly from rotating (I try to use the names from our good manual! but many manufacturers use their own names. confusion!).


@SparKot,

Owner's manual mentions to repack grease every 10K kms. I didn't want to unnecessarily damage the seals or wash off the good grease present there already, so, left them as they were before. Did grease the axle nut and various points of contact.

Torque Wrench: I vaguely remember punarvasu telling the importance of torquing axle nut to specified torque, else the most likely result will be wobbling/vibration. Yes, I agree its an overkill to use a torque wrench for a simple chain slack adjustment. I would have said "Jeezy Creezy" too if someone asked about using a torque wrench for the oil drain bolt - because am very comfortable doing an oil change by myself.

Many many thanks for those wonderful DIY posts - all duly noted !


@nikhil.krishnan,

I too started out with no experience, anyway, get into DIY only if you are interested/have time, etc. Else, I think SVC can do the job - But make sure they have done it properly - oil drain bolt tightened, oil level perfect, chain alignment correct on both sides, master link in chain fitted the correct way, etc. Don't let them add additives to petrol/engine oil without asking you.

Been months since I visited a SVC. Might visit soon if Sparkot doesn't post a "Fork oil change".


@punarvasu,

What about rear brake's cam/pin that moves the shoes - do we have to use caliper grease or ordinary one will do?

++1 for digital tyre pressure gauge - a lot easier to read than the tiny analogs.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Originally posted by ashwanth.r View Post

What about rear brake's cam/pin that moves the shoes - do we have to use caliper grease or ordinary one will do?

Any petroleum grease including bearing grease or lithium based grease causes swelling and damaging of rubber parts. This petroleum grease is never used to lube rubber or plastic parts. In case of caliper pins, the moving pins are in contact with the rubber boots which swells. Besides the high heat burns the ordinary grease which leaves a white residue there resulting sticky pins. Hence no sane mechanic who does not play with the life of others applies petroleum grease there.
Earlier lubing the springs and pin you mentioned was a common practice but not now to avoid even the slightest possibility of grease coming between the drum and shoes.
Petroleum grease is at lube moving metallic parts. Here the parts are metallic but considering the low melting point of ordinary grease, synthetic grease and that too sparingly is better. Or clean the springs and that cam and leave it unlubed.
The mechanics have a tendency to do all the foolishnesses and pose to be authoritative. Keep away from their advices for your safety and long life.
Just what I think about it. Others may have different opinions.
Drum brake.

Re: Suzuki GS150R : Engine-Oil replacement, Filter replacement : Periodic Maintenance

Do you still hear that roaring sound at 6000 RPM?
In my knowledge the scooter oils are different compared to bike's engine oil. Because the engine of a scooter is enclosed in it's shell, their operating temp. is higher than bike's + a scooter don't have a wet clutch. But i have heard about people using engine oil of car in bike and bike still works perfectly. Not recommending it though.

Is this the proven way of deriving different viscosity oils?

This is the same situation you will come across with most of the screws in GS. I would recommend you to buy a proper star screw driver with long handle from Taparia. If the oil inlet ports are correct, as shown in the picture, i would recommend you better don't unscrew the strainer screen.
Manual says after releasing the bulb holder spring, the bulb can be pulled out. I don't know if there is only one position to install the bulb. Need to find out by our self.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Yes, when I do aggressive throttling; it's quite perceivable, they call it throaty sound. However, if acceleration is lazy/conservative, by the time we touch 6000 RPM(80km/h on my console) wind-blast masks the engine sound. I can't really tell if it sounds the same. A pedestrian/walker might point out differently.
I forgot to mention earlier, both 10w30 & 10w50 were JASO-MA2 certified. That 10w30 was in fact meant for Honda motorcycles.

I've not seen any standard authority backing it up. It's my first trial, will observe the response. Oh, I read Motul saying "Can be mixed with synthetic or mineral lubricants" on its data-sheets. So, it should be perfectly OK as far as safety is concerned.

Most parts are out-sourced across India. I've a friend's brother who works in clutch manufacturing lineup (of Exedy: EXEDY India Limited, I guess) near Kolar. Apparently, they sell it to many automobile companies in India.
Share the info when you do. As they say, a picture will tell any story better. Please post photo of engine-block paint & matt-black spray-paint if possible.
Similar thought ran across my mind then, esp considering the dust that gets in.
Well, I've couple of doubts/hindrances in that regard:

1. Found a fork-rod after roaming on foot around JC-Road for ₹ 110/-. From the same shop purchased an Oil-Can paying ₹ 90/-

This rod roughly has 20"(inch) reach, 19" considering free movement & hex-socket depth.



Where is this 14mm Hex-nut/bolt located in fork assembly? Does 19" length suffice to reach & remove that hex-nut/bolt?

2. I'm looking for a reliable measuring jar. I forgot it last time when I went for collecting tools.

3. @dip097 said while he was working on the fork, he damaged bushes & newer GS's has different fork setup. Mine is Oct-2010 make, does that make mine new/old?

4. I need some pointers/warnings from @punarvasu regarding the process apart from telling me to get it done @SVC

[MENTION=46210]punarvasu[/MENTION]
What's the stock price for front & rear wheel bearings?

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Originally posted by SparKot View Post

What's the stock price for front & rear wheel bearings?

Less than Rs. 450/- for all the bearings. Why are you planning a replacement?
Your bulb is correctly aligned and it cannot be positioned differently. The bulb, lens and the reflector is designed to provide asymmetric low beam.