I'd removed the cover long time back. I did't know the nut can be removed without any harm. I thought that the nut is crucial for the sprocket.
That is a good idea. Else you will have to keep the sensor hanging outside the cover.
Yes it is a hall effect sensor.... a really good one, because the sprocket spins much more times than the wheels but still the reading is accurate. I had a speedo on my cycle with a hall sensor, that would give false reading if you cross 40 (while coming downhill.)

My question was actually......
5.What grade of engine oil does it use ??? Synthetics are okay ???

People generally call the engine oil,mobil oil some times

I opened it last week, and nut seemed seemed like it is provided for creating flux variations by which the Hall Effect Sensor picks the rpm.So if we remove that nut, sensor wont pick any flux varation and hence no pulse.

Hall effect sensor is highly accurate, the reason why they have fixed there is that even a small movement of tire will make the primary sprocket rotate at least once. The main drawback of rpm sensor is that we will get a pulse only if a rotation is completed. The problem with cycle may be because of latch up.
The recommended grade is 20w40. Synthetics can only be used after doing atleast 5000 km else it may cause engine glazing preventing the proper mating of engine parts. I thought you were mentioning about Mobil 1.

Thanks buddy.....
Mr Go Green said that i can attach Sirac without any mods...
Will probably take a decision based on how the bike performs after my next service

If you want Synthetics then go for best try this "OWS 800 Syntholite 10W40 " fully Synthetics. it cost you 800/- for One liters.

It is recomment that you use this oil after you flush your engine.
But use this only after your bike has done 5000 KM as suggested by Anupdas

I am back

Think its almost 7 months since i last logged in here
Was busy with work and more importantly had forgotten the login password (which was incidently saved by FF in my home desktop in Kerala ...finally got it from FF now)

Having been going just going through this forum...its going I am missing a lot of the updates

Nway will have a complete read of the GS blog from where I left off & oddly xBhp is unblocked in our office, but any other motoring site is
The office firewall block sites based on tags attached to websites & 'vehicles' is one of them

But then wrt GS...its been mix of /
The engine may sometimes Feel and the next day its uber cool

my overall take:
Cons: short 1 & 2nd gear, weight, headlight (alternates were being worked on by buddies then...or is it still )

Pros: Hi-speed performance (not speed but feel) and 3+ gear ratios, brakes(though squeaky), build quality and overall refinement...just gr8

You have to gun the bike in higher gears at 50+ speeds to feel WW and glide at higher gears at <40 to feel

wrt our then infamous Rusting...negligable to nil

Major Issues faced: tyre punctures & broken clutch cable
Persistant Issues: Some tink tink sound at 6th gear while acc. at low speeds (though tappet was adjusted on 3rd service) and some metallic sound from rear suspension side when going over sharp potholes... (but then its normal at other times)

Overview after 5 services (always late by a month with one missed): Chennai SC (tried ABT once sucks ..idle rpm was set at 4K) Castrol BZ better & Kerala SC

Oil: Used SC approved new Castrol P1 (Rs.240) for each service(SC guys wonder why oil change ) with oil-filter change also...

Works fine...sometimes engine might feel harsh at low gears...just drive at higher gears/speed or rev the bike to 6K on N...everything becomes butter smooth and engine is revy

Bottomline: Will i buy this bike if given another chance today: 100% Yep
(Provided other manuf. dont come out with similar quality BiG bike

Am making it short cause gotta go 4 lunch...cheerios

man i dont like to fuss any more,wth are the forums here for any way ha?to tell their experiences,what i said was true,i still think tube less are a waste,about that high performance thing.....they have anti locking brakes and some new bikes are coming with them too.... and about me iam a safe rider and i dont over speed or race on raods so dont worry about me!

Are you sure this is the only way? My speedo was stopped when I bought the vehicle (because of no registration), and it was on after some 2-300 kms. The mech just tighten something with his hands to make it work. At that time, my rpm meter was working perfect, with both the modes. Only thing is my speed would be shown 0.

I don't remember the mech removing any part of the bike or even touching a screw driver.

Tubeless Tires

I'm truly sorry if I offended you by any chance. The incident you mentioned was never because of the tubeless tires, its always more dangerous to know a little than nothing. Go through the pros and cons of tubeless tires, you will understand clearly.

Pros of tires are

1. Lower rolling resistance: Tubeless tires have more inertia and they will continue to roll more distance than tubed tires
2. Puncture resistant: Since there is an impenetrable halobutyl lining they are more resistant to puncture. If it gets punctured, air escapes only through the hole, leading to a gentle deflation of the tyre. Conversely, an inner tube could potentially burst like a balloon, leading to a rapid deflation of the tyre which could result in sudden loss of control of the vehicle.
3. Since there is no friction between the tyre wall and inner tube generating excess heat which may cause blowout in long run.
4. Lower profile tires (Like FZ)are possible which will increase the stability under hard braking.
5. Minimal maintenance.

Cons are

1. Obviously expensive
2. The sidewall of the tires are not supported. This is the main reason why tubeless tires are mostly low profile i.e. breadth of tires are larger than height. So will cause severe damage to tires if ridden without proper pressure( as there is no support by tube).

Sorry guys for posting this here, I hope this will be informative.

Today went to service center to complaint about low mileage. So got an oppurtunity to see how things are done there. The technician connected another exhaust like device to the exhaust, guess its oxygen sensor. He then connected an accurate digital rpm to engine which showed 1560 rpm. Adjusted the golden screw waited for some time to let the reading from exhaust gases to stabilize. He said that the engine was running lean causing it to vibrate and heat.

Finally guys decided to go for Castrol Activ 4T SAE 20w40( 210 INR). I think no one has used it, will give my experience shortly.

I have a query friends. I was riding my bike the other day in rains. when i reached home my bike bike was drenched in mud. A lot of mud was their on the engine too. So is their any remedy for the same. I have seen some black kind of sheet on the engine guard. Is it safe to put such a thing.

Any more care tips to take of the bike during rains.

anup this oil is good but ordinary one , even for my previous pulsar i used , and i change at after 5000km only.

Man I have used this on my Zeus.........since its also a Suzuki engine.....I am telling my part.This Castrol Active 4T is very good for the first 1000kms.......but after that its no different from the Red can Suzuki oil thats used in the SCs.Infact one may avoid the Red cans and use Active 4T for the entirely new bike.......its practically the same,looses all viscosity after 1000kms.Better to switch to Synthetics after 5000kms for a bike like GSR.

Its better to leave as it is now. If you try to get rid of the mud by placing any rubber screens, it will obstruct the air flow and makes engine run hotter. Its really sad to see our bike covered in mud, just make habit of cleaning bike everyday. After cleaning dont just leave it dry with a towel. This is the only way. I have seen very few GS with engine guard, it probably wont do any good . While washing, clean the underside of engine as well and check if mud has been collected in crevices . By design GS don't have any crevices excepts the oil drainage

Yeah bro, i didnt dare to go for anything beside Castrol thats the truth. Only options left were Gulf Pride 4T 20w40(200 INR),Mobil 20w40(190 INR) and Mobil fully synthetic 5w40(750INR). Castrol Activ costs 210 INR, finally decided to go for it. The old oil totally lost its viscosity in just 2K Kms. The oil was draining like water, fully carbonized, looked like crude oil

I went to a local mechanic and he changed for just 10 bucks. He has done many mods on Suzuki Fiero and RX's, he said that bike is very good, tappets need some adjusting thats all. In his opinion the engine block looks just like Fiero, Carburetor is same and said may be this one is a refined Fiero. I said that GS has got balancer shafts ,Jet cooling system and 6 gear transmission to which he said heart is still the same

In that workshop, there was Fiero fully dismantled, saw the engine full aluminium, only the cylinder had a lining of cast iron or so. Saw the camshaft, the intake and exhaust valves had different size, the later being bigger. And saw the so called tappets causing all the fuss. I never thought that springs holding the valves was this hard. Technician said its a necessary evil otherwise it wont open and close reliably in higher rpm. Carburetor was of Piston type Mikuni. In his opinion Fiero was a real value for money bike. Now the question my question is why did they stop making Fiero?

Thanks buddy, if it runs 1500 km I'm more than happy. No synthetics before 10 K mark, it may will cause glazing and the engine mating may arrest. After 5K we can go for semi synthetics and after couple of changes, if still not satisfied one can go for synthetics. Im not that of a high revver, so I think semi synthetics will be good enough for commuters like me