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  • Originally posted by basumataryraj View Post
    Hey guys, I have changed the oil to castrol active 4t. The printed price is 204. The dealer charged 200. I just agreed as I was on a hurry. I could not find gulf, motul, shell etc. Then went to a mechanic and asked him to change the oil and tighten the chain. After the oil change the gears has become hard. I mean upshifting has become harder. Down shifting is total pain in the ***. I have to blip the accelerator sometimes to upshift also. I am wondering why. Is it because I was using semi-synthetic earlier? Help needed guys. Raj
    What a contradiction? I'm currently running on Activ 4T as well, have only done 50Km with it, but so far its running engine smoother than anyone sofar.
    Last edited by Anupdas; 06-11-2010, 05:35 PM.
    Well-trained reflexes are quicker than luck.........

    Comment


    • This seems to be due to over tightening of the chain, not the oil!
      Quench my thirst with gasoline!

      Comment


      • The oil is SAE 20W40. So the oil grade is ok. I will have to check if the chain is too tight. There is no way to ensure that I am buying an original castrol and not a counterfeit one. Probably I will try to go for a different brand than castrol. But availability of other brands is a problem in my place. People here has the inclination for the tried and tested (read castrol). @anupdas. Have you bought the 900ml can? Then what did you do about the remaining 100ml? Is it ok to fill 900ml only. Raj.

        Comment


        • Originally posted by basumataryraj View Post
          The oil is SAE 20W40. So the oil grade is ok. I will have to check if the chain is too tight. There is no way to ensure that I am buying an original castrol and not a counterfeit one. Probably I will try to go for a different brand than castrol. But availability of other brands is a problem in my place. People here has the inclination for the tried and tested (read castrol). @anupdas. Have you bought the 900ml can? Then what did you do about the remaining 100ml? Is it ok to fill 900ml only. Raj.
          You need to fill 1 litre in your bike for normal oil change.
          (even with this much the oil level comes around little more than halfway between E and F lines)
          1.1 litre with oil filter change..

          I think 900ml would be near the E line which is not recommended..
          just check the level before riding

          Comment


          • Originally posted by basumataryraj View Post
            The oil is SAE 20W40. So the oil grade is ok. I will have to check if the chain is too tight. There is no way to ensure that I am buying an original castrol and not a counterfeit one. Probably I will try to go for a different brand than castrol. But availability of other brands is a problem in my place. People here has the inclination for the tried and tested (read castrol). @anupdas. Have you bought the 900ml can? Then what did you do about the remaining 100ml? Is it ok to fill 900ml only. Raj.
            Yes bro its 20w40. 1 L only made it just above middle level. Many are not going for Castrol not because of poor quality but they have most number of duplicates. You cannot say its the problem of oil remove the rubber cork in the chain cover and see if the chain play is at least the dia of the opening( 1 inch). Are you hearing excessive sound from chain while rolling of throttle?

            Im attaching the photo of Oil can
            Well-trained reflexes are quicker than luck.........

            Comment


            • Originally posted by MSN1 View Post
              It may be due to too tight in the chain just check that and
              also check if the oil grade is 20w -40 or 15w-40 if not its not suitable for GS150R

              if everything is done and still having issue

              It may be a duplicate oil; go ahead and change oil again
              i would recomend you to visit nearest shell bunk and buy one

              just to correct it... you can even use 15 w 40 for our bike.
              Rides: HH SPl (2000-2005) | TVS Vic GLX (2005-2010) | S GS150 R (Current)

              Gears: Scoyco JK -17 | Cramster Twister | Cramster Bionics | Vega Boolean

              Comment


              • Originally posted by basumataryraj View Post
                Hey guys, I have changed the oil to castrol active 4t. The printed price is 204. The dealer charged 200. I just agreed as I was on a hurry. I could not find gulf, motul, shell etc. Then went to a mechanic and asked him to change the oil and tighten the chain. After the oil change the gears has become hard. I mean upshifting has become harder. Down shifting is total pain in the ***. I have to blip the accelerator sometimes to upshift also. I am wondering why. Is it because I was using semi-synthetic earlier? Help needed guys. Raj
                Hi Guys i checked out at domlur about mineral oil. He had shell and castrol. For shell i saw printed 210 bucks he said cost is 190. For castrol he quoted 210 something.

                How do i knw shell is original, can it be cheaper than castrol? sc guy was charging 315 for castrol. I asked him to wait till tomorrow morning.

                I am thinking of taking shell its 20w-40 4 T "mineral oil for motorbike". comments invited.

                Comment


                • Originally posted by rajesh1136 View Post
                  just to correct it... you can even use 15 w 40 for our bike.
                  Even 10 W - 40 Doesn't harm

                  Did any one tried Elf 4t Oil they have two varients ELF MOTO 4 GOLD 20W40 and ELF MOTO 4 PRO 20W40 it seems both are mineral did anyone used it please provide your feedback

                  @ basumataryraj

                  Have you checked again with the local service guy hope your issue is fixed

                  @ Anup

                  the oil can seems to be a semi - synthetic one coz manufacturer wont say synthetic technology with out any such contents so it may have little bit synthetic in it dont worry major part is mineral oil only
                  Last edited by MSN1; 06-12-2010, 08:00 AM.
                  Sarcasm is my automatic response to stupidity

                  Currently Using Gusto |Enfield Bullet 500 | Ecosport Titanium+ Diesel

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by MSN1 View Post
                    Even 10 W - 40 Doesn't harm
                    bro sorry... i missed to process not in your post.. went back and read again

                    i thgt u saying 15w40 not suitable for GS my bad
                    Rides: HH SPl (2000-2005) | TVS Vic GLX (2005-2010) | S GS150 R (Current)

                    Gears: Scoyco JK -17 | Cramster Twister | Cramster Bionics | Vega Boolean

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by MSN1 View Post
                      Even 10 W - 40 Doesn't harm

                      Did any one tried Elf 4t Oil they have two varients ELF MOTO 4 GOLD 20W40 and ELF MOTO 4 PRO 20W40 it seems both are mineral did anyone used it please provide your feedback

                      @ basumataryraj

                      Have you checked again with the local service guy hope your issue is fixed

                      @ Anup

                      the oil can seems to be a semi - synthetic one coz manufacturer wont say synthetic technology with out any such contents so it may have little bit synthetic in it dont worry major part is mineral oil only
                      I will check the chain today. But I bought a 900ml can. What do you guys suggest? Should I buy another can and topup as recommended oil quantity without oil filter change is 1l. I dont think small pouches of 100ml is available in the market. Also I was using castrol power 1 semi synthetic 15w40 earlier. It was very good for around 1700kms. Later gears became hard.

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by parag.pj View Post
                        Hi Guys i checked out at domlur about mineral oil. He had shell and castrol. For shell i saw printed 210 bucks he said cost is 190. For castrol he quoted 210 something.

                        How do i knw shell is original, can it be cheaper than castrol? sc guy was charging 315 for castrol. I asked him to wait till tomorrow morning.

                        I am thinking of taking shell its 20w-40 4 T "mineral oil for motorbike". comments invited.
                        Here in our country most people of unaware of premium brands like shell, elf, motul so there wont be much duplicates, one's like castrol have more counterfeits. S.C was sure milking you, any oil other than SC oil will be good. Don't worry about price, Motul another premium brand have only 160 for its mineral oil. If you can find Shell at 190 it would be a steal

                        Originally posted by MSN1 View Post
                        @ Anup

                        the oil can seems to be a semi - synthetic one coz manufacturer wont say synthetic technology with out any such contents so it may have little bit synthetic in it dont worry major part is mineral oil only
                        I thought it was mineral oil , I tried to google it out couldnt find a reliable information. Service centre was charging 220, the one i bought costed 210 so i thought this one will be mineral one as well. Anyway I have already crossed 6K mark so it won't be a problem. This oil is working good for me, the problem is that engine feels sluggish on cold starts( may be due to cold weather ), takes some time to get warm after that rest all are fine.
                        Well-trained reflexes are quicker than luck.........

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by basumataryraj View Post
                          I will check the chain today. But I bought a 900ml can. What do you guys suggest? Should I buy another can and topup as recommended oil quantity without oil filter change is 1l. I dont think small pouches of 100ml is available in the market. Also I was using castrol power 1 semi synthetic 15w40 earlier. It was very good for around 1700kms. Later gears became hard.
                          First you need to check the condition of chain. Most probably it will be the culprit. 900ml will be around half level it will be enough, i think these 900ml cans are exclusively for 100cc's. Next time make sure to buy 1L. Keep an eye on the oil level and change the oil a little sooner say around 1500. If the oil level is lower than half buy another can of 900ml and topple it up just below the high level. You will have some spare oil. I think you have already done some 6500+ kms so you can change the filter.
                          Well-trained reflexes are quicker than luck.........

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by basumataryraj View Post
                            I will check the chain today. But I bought a 900ml can. What do you guys suggest? Should I buy another can and topup as recommended oil quantity without oil filter change is 1l. I dont think small pouches of 100ml is available in the market. Also I was using castrol power 1 semi synthetic 15w40 earlier. It was very good for around 1700kms. Later gears became hard.
                            I don't think it as a problem with oil it should be the chain; its better to exchange the oil for 1000 ml and check the chain first

                            I am using Castrol Power 1 15W 40 its going good just crossed 1200 kms with that
                            Sarcasm is my automatic response to stupidity

                            Currently Using Gusto |Enfield Bullet 500 | Ecosport Titanium+ Diesel

                            Comment


                            • Yes, the chain is the culprit here. Its over tightened and also very dirty. Its been raining incessantly since last two months here. So had to encounter lot of mud. I will clean the chain tomorrow. Is it ok to use kerosene to clean the chain. The mechanic said I can use petrol, but I am not sure. What do you guys say? I was also using power 1 (semi-synthetic) before this oil change. It was good maybe for 1700 kms and later gears became hard. Now I am thinking this happened maybe because the chain was dirty. My next service is due in 15days. I would change the oil filter and oil again then. My bike has clocked 6250kms till now. I think I would stick to semi-synthetic from now on. Raj

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by basumataryraj View Post
                                Yes, the chain is the culprit here. Its over tightened and also very dirty. Its been raining incessantly since last two months here. So had to encounter lot of mud. I will clean the chain tomorrow. Is it ok to use kerosene to clean the chain. The mechanic said I can use petrol, but I am not sure. What do you guys say? I was also using power 1 (semi-synthetic) before this oil change. It was good maybe for 1700 kms and later gears became hard. Now I am thinking this happened maybe because the chain was dirty. My next service is due in 15days. I would change the oil filter and oil again then. My bike has clocked 6250kms till now. I think I would stick to semi-synthetic from now on. Raj
                                Its not at all advisable to ask SC to lubricate the chain, as they would just splash oil to the chain without cleaning it. So all the mud and dust remains there.

                                It will be better if we clean it by ourselves. As ours is D ring type we can use any of the petrol, diesel and kerosene. Using kerosene will be better. Let me suggest a way to clean the chain.

                                Items required half a liter kerosene, spraying can, old tooth brush, pair of rubber gloves, cleaning cloth, lots of news papers and 90/140 grade gear oil.
                                1. Spread the newspapers all around the work area, use in plenty so as to keep floor from staining Keep the bike in center stand and remove the lower chain cover.
                                2. Fill the kerosene in the sprayer and spray it over the entire chain.
                                3. Clean each link using tooth brush. Its not the rollers but the side of the chain, area between the links need cleaning as they hold most of the dirt.
                                4. Once completed cleaning with tooth brush, clean the dirt with cloth.
                                5. Repeat the steps 2,3,4 couple of times to remove all the dirt.
                                6. Allow some 30 min for the kerosene to evaporate completely

                                Now the cleaning procedures are completed, we can apply SAE 90 or 140 gear oil to the chain. Apply just enough oil to form a thin layer and let the oil seep into the rollers for half an hour.

                                Depending on the riding conditions, this can be done once or twice a month.
                                Last edited by Anupdas; 06-12-2010, 10:58 PM.
                                Well-trained reflexes are quicker than luck.........

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