+1 to that. Very true, thats why its called a high level technique

But this explanation seems odd, when you upshift we will be hot on throttle everyone unconsciously reduces throttle not to get a jerk or miss the gear shift which will may cost dear . When we upshift the engine rpm decreases and increases when we downshift. So the effect is more prominent when we downshift (as engine rpm is high) and this explains why we can up shift without clutch.

But its not the case while down shifting. Usually people downshift when they brake. The throttle is rolled off completely and the engine rpm decreases, when we press clutch and change gear there will be an imbalance between the engine rpm and transmission. This will be enough to throw off a rider in super bikes. So most of the riders blip the throttle to match up the rpm of both transmission and engine so as to get a linear power delivery and this also keeps the engine rpm within the power range .
Downshifting techniques are more critical as most of the maneuvers occur on super late hard braking.......

Yeah its same for me too. It seems like neutral can be found easily while bike is moving. On a regular basis i get one or two false neutrals , most happens on shifting from 1st to 2nd and its quite embarrassing to get those.

Guys I found the reason why the gear shifts in FZ and Unicorn are so effortless. Its all due to a single reason, not due to the transmission system. Both FZ and Uni have toe only shifter and they have very high leverage(mechanical gain, so much less effort is needed) than GS. i.e. the lever connecting the shifter to the gear box is longer in FZ and Uni. If we can fix such a lever then our shifts will be ultra smooth.

@anupdas ..the filckering stops at approx 1.6 k to 2.2k rpm and belive me the throw has improved,yesterday i took ma friends unicorn and switched on both bike lights one by one,, in main stand ,, gs was good quite good ..wheras unicorn having dc setup ,was focussing sharp. (in other word gs was in close ties with the unicorn my frnd also said).. .... i tried to take pics from my camera but its uselss to post ..how will u comapre the brightness

So its worth changing the Unit. Is unicorn electrical DC by stock ? When i got call from S.C I felt sorry for them.

It seemed like Today I found an amazing automobile shop. They have every brand of oils and variants. He is ready to order any oil if we are ready to pay 50% in advance. Next time I plan to service bike there. If there is not much improvement in lighting efficiency even after change, I will change to all DC electricals or HID? Its really difficult to find poth holes on road and teach some posers a lesson.

What i was trying to say is, suppose we are at 5k rpm in 3rd gear, with a throttle angle of say 45 degrees from initial position,

When we shift to 4th gear the rpm would drop to around 4k rpm, and for the piston to move at 4k rpm, the throttle angle required may be 30 degrees.

(from what i've heard, all the gear cogs keep rotating at their respective ratio and we just select one of them to transmit power to the wheels)
So when the 3rd gear cog is rotating at 5k rpm, the 4th gear cog is already rotating at 4k rpm.

So we should reduce throttle angle to match the 4k level, keeping the throttle at 45 degrees may cause a mismatch which would lead to more wear..

Atleast this is how i understood it from all the stuff i read.. feel free to correct me if i'm wrong, coz mech wasnt really my subject..

And the gear lever solution, its simple yet elegant.
And it makes perfect sense too.. coz with the heel, we put little more force and the shifts are smooter compared to toe..
In my case, extending it by 4cm seems ideal as the shifter would be at the starting point of my toe, but extending 6cm or more and my feet may miss it

You are correct till now, but rest seems like a misunderstanding. In racing the rider just keep the throttle full open and then do gear shifts. But they always use clutch while downshifting even if its just a touch.

The gearing is provide to divide torque necessary to accelerate the bike. If two gears A & B of equal dia is conneted both will rotate at the same time and the output of the transmission is from gear B. If they are of unequal dias, the one with bigger dia will rotate slower than the smaller one. In our transmission just imagine that from 1st gear to 6th gear we are reducing the size of gear B while the Gear A is being constant. In first gear the gear B will be higher in dia so the final rpm will be low but the torque will be high. In second gear the dia of Gear B is decreased and now its rpm will be higher than first combo but will have reduced torque. The dia of the gear B keeps on reducing increasing the resultant rpm.

This is the basic idea behind all transmission as the engine rpm cannot be used to such a high speed range. That was just for explanation, but in reality both the dia of Gear A & B keeps changing to have efficient coupling.
Now when we change from 2nd gear to 3rd gear there will decrease in engine rpm but whole this time the transmission and engine are not seperated for a moment(clutchless shifting). The change in engine rpm is due to gearing ratio and not due to throttle position.

We downshift while decelerating and we need to get to correct gear whose engine rpm should be in power zone for good acceleration. There we need to increase the engine rpm to match the gear. Just imagine we are decelerating the rpm of the transmission is decreasing, before the engine rpm move out of the power zone we shift one gear, still the rpm of transmission is decreasing we shift another one like this. In this whole time engine is being detached from transmission, now when we connect the engine to transmission there will be a mismatch. And before the transmission drives the engine rpm high we matches the rpm to which engine will rev by increasing the throttle. This will provide a smooth acceleration. Ho I'm tired with explanation, hope you get my point.

I was not really mentioning about the length or the lever but the this one

The connecting lever of FZ and Unicorn is atleast twice than this one. So if we increase the length of that lever our shifts will be very easy.

Yes, the set up on R15 shifts easier than my GSR.(R15 is the only other bike I use most besides the GSR)
But I wont change that heel-toe shifter of the GSR,I would rather wham the heel shifter

The main reason why that lever is small because we have both toe and heel type shifting and the lever cant be placed beyond the middle point as it will disturb the balance of the toe and heel. We can only increase the length of that lever by making the shifter toe only. This explains why high performance bikes have only toe shifter .

BTW I have reverted back to using heel and toe as using toe only is tiring my leg.

Got my RR unit replaced to CA series

Seems Anup in Full Swing

Got my RR unit replaced to CA series

But no time to touch my beauty till monday
will post pictures by monday or tuesday
already took pictures of headlight brightness with old RR (BA) will test the CA and let all know

Am always using clutchless upshifting its smooth and good
only while down shifting and at low speed or sudden breaking i use the clutch shifting

Procedure for clutchless shifts

Please let me know procedure for cluthless gear upshifting/down shifting....like what speed is to be maintained for it and at from what gear we need to engage in cluthless upshifts/downshifts?

@ Kaspermat

The clutch-less technique is high level technique which can be done in controlled predicted environment like race tracks. But we done drive in such an environment, there are too much variables to be considered. As many say the clutch is provided there for a reason so use it .

If you are concerned about the life of clutch plates then use them only to shift gears. Some press clutch while turning and on exit they release it, or use clutch to drive in 3rd gear or 2nd gear while inching in traffic. Check for the clutch play adjust as soon as the play increases. Like falcon mentioned if we overdo this, we will damage the whole transmission. Better be safe than sorry.

But there are some techniques we can use everyday. Like using engine braking to slow down more efficiently. On anticipated braking many people pull the clutch this will suddenly make the bike go little faster and the brakes have to do extra work to slow the bike. But if we do sequential shifting, pull the clutch-shift-release-clutch-shift-release......we are using engine braking+front brake+rear brake. The stopping distance will be much smaller.

my view on clutchless upshifting

When to do gear upshifting without using clutch:

If you are increasing the speed (throttling up) and the bike is at 4000 rpm or above no need to engage clutch.

When to use clutch upshifting:

Changing gears at below 4000 rpm and as mentioned by anup during traffic jams.

What will Cause the clutch plate damage::

Frequently using clutch to increase acceleration faster will spoil.
Fully closing the clutch won't spoil the fuel efficiency or clutch plate much
But holding the clutch slightly on all times and keep on engaging clutch ( we have to do that on traffic jam) will do damage if used too often.

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Race track bikes are manufactured to run in a predefined environment and it was set to do only one particular task thats to win the race high speed and accelerate faster on track.
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Our bikes are different they are made to run in an unexpected (uneven) indian roads and road like routes the task of our bikes is to give smooth ride even for a bulky guy with better mileage on bad roads not only that low maintenance even in rough handling.

Okk here is my whole mantra on why i do upshifts first and foremost +1 to whatever others have said no matter what this does increase the life of the clutch plates. The Reason why i do it keeps your hands from paining :P .

Any way i recommend you only do this when you are at 3.5k RPM and above else you will feel kind of jurk. The gearless shifting is best suited on continuous acceleration sometimes no need to blip throttle also provided you are in 4.5k RPM.

But reducing the throttle is good.Never Downshift without applying clutch.

And The gearless shfits do require some practice i straight away started because i am used to it since i used to do it in my Honda eterno also.
And there are no clear reports that increases mileage but some say it does but i highly doubt it.


p.s Done 3200 Kms,600 Kms done on Gulf Pride Love the Oil it has been awesome providing be with effortless shifts and my engine noise has reduced considerably. Highly Recommended till now. Will post another reports after 1k km since Castrol lost its form after 1k.

Can that part of the gear lever be modified ?? if it can, then i dont mind trying it out.. provided the SC helps me out with the whole process..

Even increasing the lever(which i was talking about) would have the same effect i guess.. it like opening a door by pushing it at the hinged end to opening it by pushing at the free end..

Guys, today I clicked gear levers of bikes from my college parking ground . Just note the length of levers of each one. I.M.O the gear shifts of FZ is the effortless of the all, the pic says it why.........




@ Falcon

Yeah increasing the lever length will definitely make gear shifts easy, but the length to which the lever can be increased has a limit, so that it can be used by everyone(Factory point of view). But the length of connector can be increased the cover that limit. The connector of 2010 GS is similar to that of FZ (Adithya please verify this by posting a pic). There is a window to increase the length of the connector by at least an inch. So if we can make a customized connector, it will be a direct fit.

It looks like unicorn doesnt have any connecting rod at all.. looks like the lever itself is directly mounted to the engine

But any suggestions on how we can fix our lever to match those.?

Ok after checking those pics again, i'm having my doubt whether that connecting rod has any effect at all..
Assuming we press the gear lever on all bikes by same amount while changing the gear, it looks like the same force is present at the engine end of the connecting rod on all bikes coz the lever end of the connecting road moves the same amount. i think my explanation isnt clear at all, didnt know how else to explain it. sorry. []