Could someone please post a pic of the carb indicating the fuel/air screw. I dont want to touch any wrong screws.

Are you going to tune the carb by yourself ? I too have done a little fine tuning myself . Turning the golden screw in clockwise will make the air-fuel mixture lean and counter clockwise will make it richer. I turned the screw by half a rotation at a time and noted the mileage.

Suzuki GS150R the King.

Our own GS150R is the best 150cc bike in all stakes.
The Bike India test of CB Unicorn Dazzler has the following specs:
0-60: 5.45 secs
0-400m drag: 19.72secs @101.59kmph
Mileage:55.7kmpl
Weight of the bike : 138kg
Price:Rs.71,564 on road.

FZ16/FZS/Fazer :
0-60: 5.51 secs
0-400m drag: 20.40sec @96.11kmph
Mileage:54kmpl
Weight of the bike :136kg
Price:Rs.72,649 on road.

GS150R:
0-60: 5.46 secs
0-400m drag: 19.87sec @101.99kmph
Mileage: 59.75kmpl
Weight of the Bike :149kg
Price :Rs.68,260 on road

See it for yourselves now what a 149kg bike do to 14-15kg lighter bikes.Smokes the FZ, makes the Dazzler run ...............all these tests on GSR were in ECO mode !!!! Thats why the high mileage figure way above the average 150cc bikes
It also smokes the competition with its exceptional VFM(6-gears,gear indicator enabled digi-console,power-modes) and low pricing for its performance.
Note the drag times too..........Dazzler is quicker only by 0.15 secs but the real magic of GSR is at 102kmph in comparison to Dazzler's 101kmph,which means they cross the line at the same time..........Dazzler screaming all the way,while the GSR going easy and stable without enabled power mode

One can cruise the roads at top speeds with the GSR(110kmph ECO mode)..........like the US-SR71 which flies at Mach3.5 max and cruises at that Top speed.
Dazzler(118.1 kmph) is like the MiG25 or MiG31.....which does a good top speeds(Mach 3.45) too but cant cruise at that speeds at all Dazzler wobbles and is very nervous catching crosswinds at speeds above 100........aerodynamics are worse than an Unicorn.
GSR is still the King and Dazzler's introduction makes no difference at all.GS's mill is also the smoothest here in league with Unicorn only.Dazzler's mill is relatively rough.

Ok,now about the clutch and systems.............even my bike does turn its wheel by itself in 1st gear with clutch disengaged.But its not related a lot with gearshifts.............my gearshifts are very easy......infact even if I mistakenly put the heel of my foot on the heel of the shifter with clutch in slightly disengaged position.........it shifts at lower rpms !!!!!
This system makes riding the heavy bike easier.........at start stop traffic its an ease to ride,even with the clutch totally depressed and at 2-5kmph,theres no need of puttin my foot on ground !!!! The bike is magical

No wonder.........in power mode,I ride with R15s and ZMAs of my group

@MACH50

Nice write up..
But i must admit one thing..
I get smoked almost everytime if i'm dragging with any 150cc bike when the signal becomes green.. even the old unicorn

I'm not blaming the bike though.. since this is my first bike i'm not used to shifting gears with a racing orientation.
I guess i take too much time to pull the clutch, shift, and then release clutch and accelerate..

But the 0 to 20km/h in 1st gear i do get an initial lead..
By the way, when you rev the bike to say 20-25 in 1st gear and then shift to 2nd, do you get a loud thud sound ?? it happens to me while dragging..
Any idea why this happens ? (it might be because i dont press clutch fully while shifting or i dont release the throttle)

And ya, up shifting with the heel makes gear shifts feel smoother compared to toe shifting in my bike. i tried it out today.. but the heel shifter is so high and it takes time to find it..(may be coz i've never used it till now)


Edit: Does anyone know how much fuel our carb holds ??
For example, if the carb is empty initially(with fuel knob in off), then we turn it on for 30 seconds to 1 min so the carb gets filled, then if we turn it off again and ride till bike stalls, we can calculate the mileage of the bike..
It seems like a very simple and easy way of calculating mileage as we'll need to ride for 3kms max, no need to wait for reserve, and it doesn''t depend on whether the bunks are filling the right quantity of fuel.

I think there's a screw on the carb which can be used to drain fuel from carb so we can collect and measure quantity.. wish i had a measuring jar to calculte the amount of fuel.

Till the second service I used only heel shifter and after that the gear shifts became so smooth that i began to use only the toe shifter. But the problem is that all my shoes and sandals have started to tear apart. The drawback of using heel shifter is that it takes more time to downshift and have to move our foot. In toe shifting we can do upshifting and downshifting without moving our foot and much faster.

@ Falcon

I oniy hear a thud when I change from first gear to second gear for the first time in a day(I found it strange, but it happens everyday), then no sound at all even at higher rpm. I even tried clutchless upshifting no problems at all. I always roll off throttle while shifting and blips the throttle while downshifting.

Good one buddy........really its MAGICAL......in eco mode but in power mode...its just a magnificient richness of drive.....

Well u'll learn with time .......for mah case it totally opposite as of you....(u have to be the fastest if you are driving in mumbai though,riding within just space to pass out and getting ahead of every one at signals.......phew.....u just need a bike like our GS which gives a feel to other fellows and four wheelers that there's a guy passing beside you)

even i got the loud sound,but then i started using heel shifter for that and IT's gone....there's no more sound......

Thanks Anup for the quick reply. Its just what I thought. The SC guys leave the mixture too lean. I wanted to try make it a bit more rich. Came back from the SC yesterday to find the chain too tight. I didt't realize it at the SC. Then had to loosen it myself.

Nowadays I have plenty of time so its nothing. Yeah same thing happened to me, when I complained about low mileage they made air-fuel mixture too lean and engine started to give vibrations past 60 kmph speed. Frustrated I tuned carb myself. Surprisingly the very next mileage I got was 53 with a pillion for most of the time and in power mode.

If you adjusted the chain verify its in proper alignment. Usually the tight chain problem can be reduced by lubricating the chain. Did you had all the tools necessary to do it by yourself?

@Anup

The tool Kit provided with the bike has it all. In my case lubrication would not have done it. The free play was not even 5mm. The manual says 20 to 30mm. I cleaned the chain by squirting kerosene on it(I'd read you do the same). Finding kerosene here was a task! Will lube it tomorrow morning. What lube do you use?

If you consulted service centre guys they would only need 5 min for tightening the chain. The tools provided will be very difficult to work na, considering they have very less leverage. You would have had a tough time tightening the nuts. Its because GS has chain cover they use the window to check the tightness. I think they used their intuition to tighten the chain. With such a chain play how did you even ride bike to home?

I found many threads using chain cleaning sprays, the price was too high for its job. So bought a sprayer, filled with kerosene. It does it job well. Did you only spray kerosene? Didn't you clean it? I used SAE 140 grade gear oil. Here we get 1.5 L kerosene per month and I'm using most of it .

hi anup,can u Elaborate how u do tuning? I mean u make half turn clockwise from the current position right.After certain km our carb need optimum tuning right, for that we have to make it clockwise or anticlockwise.Previously i use to get 52 to 53kmpl now 47.5 to 49kmpl .So what u think can i do clockwise to make lean mixture or anticlockwise to make rich mixture.....
One more doubt, valve adjust means any difference in mileage, bcos i am gettng this less mileage after valve sound(tik tik tik frm engine) ....
Today MY MAIN SC finally got over phone, instead he coming to my local town he told me he will send a special tool for valve adjust Is tht our suzuki need any special tool 4 valve adjust?

@ Anup
The SC is 25kms from home. Yesterday it was already late when they had done the work. And I could feel the rains comming. So i hurried up home before it rained. Did't want to go back just for this. Ya the leverage is less with the tools in the tool kit, had to struggle, but its done. I cleaned the chain with a old tooth brush. It did not have much dirt on it. the rollers were rolling freely already. Now will have to find the gear oil tomorrow. Because of the rains I dont feel like going out with the bike. I'm waiting for the rains to subside to go for a long ride.

@ Abdul Bhai

My bike was giving vibrations past 60 speed after I asked S.C guys to tune the carb. It was clearly a case of setting the air-fuel mixture lean. Bike was not accepting my throttle inputs, with a pillion it was very frustrating. It was then I decided to tune carb myself. The air fuel ratio is adjusted by turning the golden screw as indicated in the image.

This method is a trial and error method. Turning the screw clockwise direction will make air fuel mixture lean and counter clockwise direction will make it rich. I turned the screw half a rotation in counter clockwise direction and checked the mileage. In my case the first try itself gave very good mileage. My mind said turn a little more to see if it increases, I said not to disturb the setup anymore. It gave two consecutive above 50 mileages in power mode ridden around 70.

After tuning the vibrations have reduced to nil, not much of a noticeable change in pick up. But engine sounded very stress free and I could easily cruise in 60+ speeds. No idea about the valve adjustment but I can hear a hissing like sound from them. After the oil change the sound has reduced to a great extend.

thannx anup, u did'nt tell me the vibration part is also gone after u do urself the tuning?
what abt the pickup after ur tuning? mileage and valve adjust any answer for me?

Hahahahaha

Today I dragged my bike with my friend and Xbhp member Nighthawk_Lee on his R15
No one got smoked,though I had my nose slightly ahead !!!! We both reached 100kmph equally fast and then ran out road
I know I would have had lost after that............R15 reaches 130kmph with ease
Now this is really a big compliment for an air-cooled 2 valves 150cc,though the bike was in no power mode again,and that too sitting straight,while any R15(Liquid cooled, 4Valves-LC4V) begs you to crouch in comparison (Nighthawk_lee is one of the most bad ass riders.....he uses R15 to chase away the likes of Comet and Ninja in our locality,so no doubt about the rider)

GS150R.......the magic lies in intense high rev gear shifts with the clutch fully pulled in.
As for the thud sounds at 25-26kmph shift to second gear---NO, my gearshifts are smoother than any Unicorn I had ridden so far,namely my friend's own 2nd Gen Unicorn and Xbhpian Wingryder's Unicorn too.What more I used to smoke Unicorns with my modded Zeus GSR is way above.......

Here is a way to drag the GSR.
1.If you are new to dragging,you should know the basics first......
Never watch for the speeds at which you are shifting,watch the RPMs.
2.Loosen your clutch play on your GSR,so that you can feel butter smooth shifts,sometimes it so happens that hard shifting gear lever messes the quickness of drag reflex.
3.Dont swerve your bike while dragging,make it go as straight as possible........GSR,is a beautiful bike,it corrects all tendency to swerve while sudden acceleration.

Now the secret,
Based on calculations there are two types of shifts used in a drag,
Torque shifting and Power shifting.......a third type of shift is customised and is mostly for the pros(this is the type I use)

Torque shifting-This involves playing with the torque curve,the max torque of our GSR comes out around 6500rpms,you need to shift quickly when this rpm is reached,your bike will surge forward,as in every gear it gets to build up the peak torque.
So....thing is always rev at 6500rpm-1st gear(quickly shift the gear),6400rpm-2nd gear(quick shift),6300rpm-3rd gear(slow shift),6200rpm-4th gear(slower shift),6100rpm-5th gear(still slower shift),6000rpm-6th gear(slowest shift).The short gear ratio of our GSR really compliments acceleration,cupled with its meaty torque curve......a bike like ours would emerge like a diesel train headed towards the Capital The RPMs climb faster in power mode.This method is more useful for streetfights and in city overtakes of a fast moving vehicle.

Power shifting-People who are too conservative about riding their bikes,wont follow this process This involves shifting near the redline or the peak power curve.
Same as above.........only that you have to Shift the 1st gear at 8500rpm......then reduce rpm shifts as above,the bike usually flies in this mode and it really requires very clear drag strips otherwise it maybe dangerous and maybe slow due to sudden braking to avoid obstacles.This is a professional method.Engine is hard revved and stressed.Same thing for the power mode too......and it helps you to shift at power curves.

My own customised shift...
1st gear at 8200rpm
2nd gear at 7600rpm
3rd gear at 7000rpm
4th gear at 6800rpm
5th gear at 6500rpm
6th gear at 7500rpm

By this method..........my bike gets the advantage of the building Power at high rpms and when a shift occurs,it falls directly on the Torque curve.Nowhere the bike is left without momentum and it accelerates its way away to the sky

This is enjoyed more on ,my tuned 2T.......as it reaches around 130kmph with ease.
Tried this on my GSR and it smoked all 150cc and ran along with R15,ZMA and P220