The beam that holds the tyres at the back is called Swing-arm......I have found it coming out fork like in order to get the rear wheel assembly.........its normal.I dont know what type of bend you are talking about,please click some photos and post it to make it clearer

Look for a oil level screen positioned on the transmission box,closer to the rear brake pedal,focus a torch on it,check the level through the level ruler placed there.Till now I found the Motul30004T plus as best for pick-up and engine smoothness,its a 20W40 mineral oil.Cant say about the Gulf product.Whatever engine oil you might use,always use the Suzuki Oil filter Purolator,this oil filter has much more depth and filtering abilities than any local filters.

The gear shift would be a bit harder on the entirely new bikes,loosen the clutch play a bit,It would be ok.

Honda Activa is a clutchless scooter.....so its normal that the variator rotates with RPMs.GSR is a clutch enabled bike,and its an added property that its wheel rotates in first gear on central stand.

I have no complaints about its performance.........I roam the streets in the evening with my Local Xbhpian and buddy Nighthawk_Lee on his R15 and we jointly smoke numerous FZs and other air-cooled 150ccs here and there.

Yes 2010 models are BS4 compliant and have a bit more characteristic punch.Best part it is that ,the other rider doesnt know but sees the GSR smoking him Silently Even if you high rev the bike.....its silent as ever.Gives a pseudo notion of being underpowered while it is actually going to fly

Hi anup bro, after u do that half turn whether The RPM increase or decrease...?? or no change.....

Yes adi u can go now for Gulf 4T plus , which it do wonders for my bike except mileage(47kmpl) and valve noise.Rajesh116 told me it is semi.But don't belive it drain peroid 10,000km . change it at after running 3000km ,if u satisfied use it again otherwise move to motul or agip.
I am satisfied so far , let see till i change it.to check oil normally in older bikes they have stick with cap so we can see whether oil is less or not by view the stick and also by touching that know how much viscous it have....
I have no idea for GS

I would be coming up with a carb tune method soon,just half rotation clockwise or anti clockwise does nothing.All Suzuki GSRs from factory settings run lean which results in low pick-up.Watch this space.I tuned my own bike and it responded beautifully

@MACH50 here are some pics sorry for the quality my Digi Cam is knocked out using my Mobile. The First two pictures is what i am talking about. The later two just adding it since i didn't Post pics of my GS and also people don't think i don't have one .

Carb Tuning

Fuel screw : Turned in (clockwise) gives a lean mixture.
Turned out : (anti-clockwise) gives a rich mixture.

Air screw turned in (clockwise) gives a rich mixture
Turned out (anti-clockwise) gives a lean mixture.

Lean means more air, less fuel.
Rich means more fuel, less air.
Let’s get started…

First ride the bike… I mean really ride (not just start and warm it up) for at least 15 minutes or so at varying speeds…. Try to reach above 60 km/hr…. Point is to get the engine nice and hot and prepare it for the tuning.
Turn the engine idle screw … engine RPM should reach about 3000 RPM. Now tune the air / fuel screw to make the mixture leanest as possible (turn clockwise).
As you make the air / fuel mixture leaner, the engine RPM slowly decreases… Go on doing this until you have put the fuel screw to the leanest possible point. At the same time, ensure that the engine does not stall, by turning the idle-screw.
The engine is running and the mixture is lean. If you notice from the engine sound or if you see the tachometer, the engine RPM will not be steady at this point. Now very slowly start turning the fuel screw anti-clockwise, quarter revolution at a time. You will notice that the RPM increases slowly and steadily. Again, do this very slowly. Notice that when you have turned it to approx 3-4 full revolutions, the engine RPM gradually becomes constant. Now Stop Screwing Around… Climax has been reached …. You have attained optimal engine performance setting.

@ Madhu Bhai

Anxiously waiting for your reply. Don't worry bro, the S.C will take good care of your stead.

@ Adi

It took this much time for you to post a pic. I think Mach50 cleared your doubt. I checked my swing arm and its just like yours. Swing arm is a very important section and it will have almost zero tolerance to errors, if anything was wrong you couldn't have even kept bike in straight line,leave cornering.

@ Abdul Bhai

I read some tuning methods over net, all of them were done by noting the change in rpm of engine. When a optimum air-fuel mixture is reached the rpm remains constant. When I asked to tune carb, I saw the technician turning the screw more than 3 rotations. Compared to that half a rotation at a time is only a fine tuning and I didn't notice any significant change in rpm. But cold start problem I mentioned earlier have reduced to an extent.

@ Mach50

Waiting for that tuning method, if possible click lots of pictures and make a thread in D.I.Y section.

@ Chiefashman

I remember reading same method over **********. 4 Strokes only have air/fuel screw and 2 strokes have air screw, bro please edit the post so that we wont confuse anyone. Here is the link for a more elaborate explanation How To Tune Your Motorcycle For Performance and Fuel Efficiency

@ Adi,

Per the pics it seems like normal and similar to my bike no need to panic

@ felix.raghav,

The service due date depends on either mileage or due date which ever occurs earlier

Example:: if your 4th service due date is aug 16th or 6500 kms

If you reach 6500 kms means go to service immidiatly ignore the date

If you reach the aug 16th early and the kms crossed is below 5000 or below the 6500 kms then go to service immidiatly don't bother the kms run

Adi........theres a dent in your swing arm
Fellow riders note that depression in his swingarm towards right.....did ya all see it ???
I dint find it on my ride !!!!!

If i consult the SC regarding aftermarket Air Filter, they will surely stop me from fitting it and say that it will Void the Warranty n crap like that.
I think, we can fit a K&N in any Bike and space should not be a constraint.
I have read in the K&N Website's Comments Section that a Guy has fitted RC-1100 to his GS successfully and is happy with it.

If you fit K&N without Upjetting, then i think it will result in Reduced Pickup but better Mileage. For better Pickup, Upjetting is essential.
I am a Novice in this Process but i know a Guy who is into Bike Modding.
But after reading Mach50's Post, still not decided if to go for K&N now as it might mess up the ECO and POWER Mode Settings.

Woooooo. That's a lot of Mods Bro. I am a Novice when it comes to technicality of these Mods but i know a Good Guy here in Pune who is into Bike Modding. Also, i do not plan to change the complete Carb. as of now. Just planning to add more Jets to it to make it Optimum, if i go for K&N. Changing to a Bigger Carb or FFE, that i might think probably after the Bike has completed it's Warranty Period.

Am eagerly waiting for this Space as somehow i feel that my Bike's Pickup is Low and i would like to tune it properly for Good Pickup but do not know the exact process. I would like to try this Process before i think about going for a K&N.

Yesterday I wanted to lube my chain and I thought of doing what I used to do on my cycle. After I cleaned the chain with kerosene I let it dry completely. Then I dissolved some grease in hot kerosene, then filled it ito an oiling can and lubed the chain while it was still hot. It works great.
The idea is that the grease will get into all the gaps without trouble like this and eventually the kerosene will evoporate away leaving only grease which will give superior lubrication. There wont be any excess grease to attract dust and sediments as well.

Suppose i try to tune my carb and forget the initial settings,
and it gets messed up (its a very possible situation )
How bad of a problem would it be to correct it back to optimum settings ??

I've not yet tried anything, i'm scared that i might end up with a bike giving low mileage and power forever, if i try anything.

I have a similar dent in my bike.. guess its normal....
check again on the right side swingarm(inner side). i think every bike has it.

Falcon......my swing arm is not dented........I can assure you.

CARB TUNING GUIDE :

For the Suzuki GSR........
Tune the carb as adviced in the Bike advice article.I also participated in making that article and you will find my suggestions under the name of Suddhatma Mukherjee.

Take note:
Mikuni BS26mm has Bronze colored Fuel screw on its left side.......or the left side of the bike.The Steel colored Idling screw is on the right side,pointing vertically upwards-supporting the dual throttle cable.I wont explain which side rotation makes lean or rich.....as I expect confusion out of it.Just follow whats written below


For the GSR,take the bike out for a ride-ride for about 15 minutes and do some 2-3kms,this is the perfect engine warm up.......
Next,bring the bike home or at garage,put it on central stand.
Get the screw driver out of your tool kit and proceed as follows-
1.raise idling to 3000 rpm by turning the idling screw,then turn the fuel screw clockwise till lock(count the clockwise rotations),rpms would come down to around 1400rpm.
2.Next lower the idling to 1000 rpm with the idling screw,the bike would be about to stall.This means you have reached leanest possible mixture.
3.Then turn the Fuel screw anti-clockwise,four rotations.........bingo,you are at optimum tune.Rpms would auto-matically rise to 1500-1600 rpms from 1000rpms lower the idling screw a bit to bring it around 1500rpms.

You will find the engine humming without any up or down or irregularities in engine beating.
Mine is at 4.5 rotations anticlockwise from lock,5.0 rotations anticlockwise from lock would make rich mixture.

While turning the fuel screw of my bike to lock position clockwise,It had 2.5 rotations on factory set up........which is at leaner position.But now its 4.5 rotations from Lock.

Tests to affirm if your tuning is ok.
1.After the tuning is over.......and you are done setting the idling rpm.........rev the engine till 6500rpm and leave the throttle.If the rpms falls and stops at 1500rpm exactly....then your tuning is alright.If it falls below idling rpm......your tuning is not stable......try it again.If the rpm fall at stop is higher than idling setting,lower the idling by the idling screw.Which means that your bike was not at normal temperature during the tuning.It was colder.

2.After you have been through the first test........keep the engine running,sit the bike on the central stand,engage the first gear,slowly engage the clutch fully.If the rear wheel keeps turning without jerks and without the engine stalling,it means your idling rpms are very much stable and the tuning is perfect.Shift gears and watch for the same in every gear.If its ok in every gears......congrats....you have tuned your bike well Go now smoke

How do you heat the kerosene here? Isn't there the risk of it igniting?
Also, where did you come across this menthod of lubing. Its probably my lack of knowledge, but haven't come across it earlier.

the bend is there in lot of bikes even CBZ xtreme but i am talking about the dent or whatever it is since i can't call it a dent if it is there in all bikes.The Bend is fine even i had doubts about the dent. If it is only in mine then i will go to the SVC does it come under warranty since i haven't had any accidents which will create a dent form inside.