@ Raj

From the average values of optimum mileage point, it seems like every one got around 2.5 rotations(Mine was 2.75). Make sure that the setting is still not rich. When you tune carb repeat it at least twice, after first tuning go for a small ride, then do it again. And also when you fine tune, allow some time for engine to stabilize. After completion set your idle to be 1000 rpm and look how stable the bike is running. If the engine is running without fluctuations in rpm then you have obtained optimum point.

My dad was able to remove that pipe.
I put the can and checked it.(with my dad sitting in the back and holding the can).
I got 51.5 km/l (tried with 100ml petrol).
(so i got a little improvement with the half turn anticlockwise tuning method)

The ride included a lot of turnings (as i rode in crossroads mainly), and i revved upto 4.5k-5k mark in all gears, accelerated as fast as i could upto 4.5k-5k in all the gears.

The screw is at 3 turns now. (2.25 previously), can i try making it 3.5 and experiment ?
(i dont want to go thru the whole tuning procedure, setting idle at 3-4k makes the engine loud and its irritating to hear the bike like that

Ya, when we start revving and keep rpm above 4k all the time, the tappet noises start coming quicker after services.
But i find the bike is very smooth if we maintain the rpm at 2.5-3.5k in all gears, though the power reduces drastically if we ride in this range. (and i heard that below 3k isnt good for engine in higher gears)


@Anupdas: i think while tuning its always better to set it a bit richer, because leaner mixtures can cause overheat and it spoils the engine too..
So keep the optimum point at 3 turns.. (even my SC always sets it to 2.25-2.75 turns when i give for servicing)

he heh. Sorry for not being clear. Actually the self start was giving some issues. It seems it has a mind of its own. It doesnt work sometimes even when the clutch is fully depressed. So i requested replacement of the self start.
I have set it to 3.75 revolutions from anti clockwise lock position. Sound of the bike when the rpm is on 1k is stable and not fluctuating. So it should be fine. Even while it was on rich mixture i was getting average of 50 to 55 depending on type of roads. Raj

Check the engine Kill switch,bcos most of case it is the culpit ..My switch will work if i place in 1/2 postion other wise bike self start won't work...
Gulf will last long more km , how many km u ran these oil,for me 2300km(total km ran in that oil) done still going smooth..

Thanx Anup, Also, i would like to share this was how i did it..it is a bit different and nonstandard from the way tuning has been discussed in the thread but it worked!

My understanding is the only thing we can tune in the carb is how much fuel enters when throttle is fully closed and while decelerating so that the engine has a smooth idle and does not die i.e. fuel flow in idle and off idle. When the throttle opening is more than 1/8th the fuel is sucked through the main jet which has three holes vertically stacked (the more you open bigger and more holes line up (progressively bigger) to the vacuum and throttle body and more fuel enters the engine along with air. Of course the pilot fuel screw supplements with its contribution of fuel all the time. My opinion is for the engine to rev more than 3k rpm etc throttle would have to be opened more (raising idle screw) and thereby allowing fuel to get sucked from the main jet smallest hole (there are 3 in progressive order of size) and our idling setting would be imprecise because we can only control the pilot part of the fuel supply and not main jet.

So my suggestion is to do all tuning and setting below 2k rpm (need to be more accurate and precise in observing for changes in engine rpm, smoothness, sound etc because range is reduced between 1k to 2k rpm. Above 2 k rpm I feel main jet starts contributing and there is no control over that.

Start engine, go for a drive warm up well (10 mins)
Screw back pilot (golden screw) full tight, raise rpm to 1.75 or 2 by turning the idle screw.
Slowly start loosening the pilot screw 1/4th turn at a time and observe 30 seconds every time (may be frustrating but it is only a one time exercise)
The engine idling speed will start to rise and rise at around 2 full rotations (could be at different rotations in different engines because of various factors)..from here on the speed gradually plateaus (rpm does not continue to raise as progressively as until now). Then we know this is just enough fuel getting into the engine that it can burn efficiently. Record the number of rotations and then go further with loosening, the rpm may raise but not as much. I prefer not to go above 3.5 turns coz engine may get flooded and further tuning back would become confusing. For me engine idle was standing okay at 2 turns and had very smooth idle at 2.5 and I stopped at that. Meddle no further..

Any inputs are welcome

don't understand ,can u narrate it like what mach50 did...
Thanks

Abdul Bhai, Raghunandan just explained why we need to raise the engine rpm before tuning. I think by understanding how a carburetor works, it will be easier to understand what he really meant to say. A carburetor mixes air and fuel. The volume of air entering is regulated by the throttle. The more we open the throttle the more the air gushes in and more fuel is sucked in. There are mainly three types of jets in a carb. Idling jet, progression jet and main jet.
1. In lower rpm there wont be enough air gushing to the carb, which can create lower pressure to suck the fuel. Thats why there is an idling jet which injects fuel so that engine wont stall.
2. Unlike lawn mover and all, a bike requires to accelerate progressively rather than just idling and going full throttle. The progression jet provides this gradual acceleration by providing varying jet sizes.
3. And above a particular rpm, the main jet takes over other two.

So for the proper tuning we are interested in the main jet than the other two. Thats the reason why we are increasing the rpm before tuning.

By tuning we are setting how much fuel should mix with a particular flow of air, i.e. according to the position of throttle.

This is what I know about working of carburetor. I think this explanation will clear some doubts. Corrections are always welcome..........

K&N will cost you around 1200 -1400 there are 2 models available..

-----------------------------------------------------------
I too got avg of 64kmpl R2R...
but i tuned my caarb according to MACHO50's guide...I have written what i did while tuning...
my fuel screw is @ exact 4 anticlockwise rotations from end point
I rode it 40 city 60% highways.....that too with speeding above 70kmph
@anupdas
dont ever ride your bike on leaner mixtures, it wont give you mileage. and bike will lack the punch too...you should give exact amount of fuel as lesser/higher amount wont be beneficial to anyone. plus engine will be harmed with overheat, low power, bad combustion properties, low mileage etc..

@ Arish
I am Very sorry to to mislead you. DC's dont mod on bikes, but i ll let you know the workshops who do modding.
hey can you tell me some shops in NANA PETH, for bulbs?????

Done with 1st service yesterday @845km.
I had given them list of what to do from my pt of view
-DONT TUNE THE CARB..
-greasing the rear swing arm
-tyre pressure check
This is what they did
-Oil change {they changed it to 10w30!!! n said its original suzuki oil!!!!!!!!!!!! costing rs 203.. n he told that it will last till 2nd service i.e. for 2500km suggestions ???}
-changed oil filter
-rear brake n brake-light adjusted.(they did it by themselves, i had forgotten to tell about it)
-greased both the Stands
-greased swing arm
-tappet tightening (they said so..)
-washed vehicle.
Overall i am happy with SC

Mileage Problem HELP !!!

Guys I followed the carb tuning guide and did all the steps which were told...
Previously i was getting 45 kmpl....i thought maybe after the carb tuning, the mileage will increase but no such improvements were seen...

Yesterday i went for a night out at my friend's place...its approx 15km from my home....the tank contained enough petrol (I thought )....as 2 days ago after the bike came to reserve I reset the trip meter...and yesterday when i took the bike off it was showing exactly 102km on the trip meter....but after I went near about 8km...the bike stopped..petrol was completely over...and it was 11.30pm..no petrol pumps were open....i was so dissappointed with my bike... as per my knowledge 102+8=110....means in 2.5L only 110kms...only 44kmpl...

I did this stupid thing just because someone here in xbhp told me that the reserve capacity of tank is 3.5 litres....but i think he told me all crap...and today when i read the manual it was written as 2.5l reserve...

MY only suggestion to all guys is PLEASE dont misguide anyone if you dont have knowledge about that stuff....


CAN ANYONE tell me what is the problem with my bike..???? I got very frustrated last night...and yes it was very shameful situation for me..
if i want 44kmpl mileage then why will i use this GSR...???even my friend's apacheRTR160..when drove insanely gives 45kmpl...and that too with better acceleration and top speed...
I think if there is no solution for this mileage problem then i should move on by selling my bike...and getting a much more powerful beast...R15...

i dont know the exact shop name because i did'nt took the bike myself...my dad got it fixed.. the HID kit from NANA PETH...somewhere near the Police station..

Hiiiiiii All

Hi,

Hope you all are doing wel and our gs is making you as well as others crazy.
As i came to home after 45 days..
i was at Chennai for almost for one and half month for my project work..
used to see lots of GS in chennai.. i missed ma GS very much ...
after a long period i had a ride of ma bike.. feels very good i am again with my dearest one....

cheers,
Kiran...

Hey man when did I say to set the tuning to a leaner mixture ?

PS: Use multiple quotes option when you give reply to many......