My mech told me not even the pulsar screw needed, need only the rubber bush,But its avail with screw only.Try first these pulsar screw fit it or not,then try only bush with OEM suzuki screws...see the result

DIY for Visor Vibrating at 3.5 to 4 K RPM

Issue: Visor Vibration at 3.5 to 4 K RPM
Symptoms: vibration in visor while travelling at 3.5 to 4.2 K RPM on 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th gear.
When it will affect the bike: Service center or Mechanic opened the front faring and the visor for troubleshooting either headlamp focus or bulb change or electrical related issue.

Root cause: when fixing the visor back mechanic didn’t handled the fixture of the visor rubber bush properly, to be precise the root cause is mis-alignment of the rubber bush nothing else

Myth: this is not caused by the small cracks found on the visor, but those small cracks are caused due to this vibration issue.

How it happened:

 When fixing back the visor the mechanic didn’t installed the bush properly, or may be in a hurry he pushed the screw with more force (pressure) that in turn moves in the creamy layer (thin layer) of the rubber bush inside the visor fitting fiber GS Head.
 The other way of possibility is if the rubber bush didn’t sits properly with the metal rod made to hold the rubber bush backend (its behind the plastic that holds the visor and slightly hidden beneath the front portion of the speedo console)
 Thus the visor and the fiber head (plastic part) got it contact and cause the vibration.
 Earlier this rubber bush acts as the vibration absorber



Required Tools

 Before trying the below steps you should have patience, confidence, and good diagnostic sense.
 Required tools: the screw drive (the one comes in the tool kit)
 Optional required item: double side sticking rubber like tape (can be obtained from stationary shop, to know better about this you can find it in the back side of the plastic wall hooks) this is optional and need to be used as a temporary fix for time being if any of the rubber bush is gone to useless state.

Troubleshooting:

1. Open all four screws to remove the visor and keep them safe with the provided washer (ring).

2. keep the visor aside and safe

3. Now check all four Rubber bush and see if any of the rubber bush thin layer is gone inside, (in my case one rubber bush’s thin layer that stays in between the fiber and the visor is completely gone inside the fiber base.)

4. if you find the rubber bush is visible in the frond and beneath the visor then check the following

5. from inside two screws are mounted to the corners of the corners of the visor fitting (this will became visible only after removing the visor, now remove those screws and remove the big screw in the front center of the head (that’s just above the headlamp and now its visible as you removed the visor)

6. Slightly release the side plastic cover where you removed the white color screw, to check if all the rubber bushes are in proper position on the metal holder (check all four)

7. Removing and fixing back the rubber bush is bit tactical don't use any sharp screw driver it may tear the rubber bush, but you can fix back the rubber bush to the metal rods by using a small metal rod or screw driver with little force.

8. once step 8 is done try to bring out the rubber bush thin layer so as it will back to default position (covers the gap between the fiber front faring and the visor)

9. Now fix the three screws (one big goes in to center part just above headlamp and two small screws goes in to the side just in the corners of the visor covered area.

10. Now set back the visor in place and hold it with one hand then set back the screws in to its position use hands and screw it with your hand for first few rotations this is to ensure you are placing the screw properly and not pushing the rubber bush thin layer to inside.

11. first tight the bottom two with very light force, you need patience here as it looks like simply rotating, but the fact is the bottom two screws required little bit more turns to fit properly.

12. in a similar fashion now fix the top two screws, remember to stop screwing it once you feel its bit hard to screw more
[screwing to the extreme position with force may cause the rubber bush thin layer to squeeze and go inside the fiber parts screw hole that in turn left the gap between the fiber and the visor and starts the vibes again]

13. if any of the rubber bush is gone take the optional tape to cover the gap between the front faring fiber and the visor and set the rubber bush to settle in default position on the metal rod so as it will hold the screw. This will help you till you reach the service center or till you get the pulsar bush and screws

during the above process if any of the rubber bush felt inside the head, be patience and search it in the back part of the headlamp area its easy to find some times you can find it just behind the false air scoops (below the head lamp and just above the number plate)

Yeah you are right today I tried this and found working did traveled close to 45 kms on Bangalore roads and terrains its not vibrating.

If the above method doesn't works then try Akfara method that's using the pulsar visor bush with our screws ... but the problem here is be with the mechanic and make sure he is not applying force

That's the max I can draw, sorry for the poor bitmap picture.

nice one dude!!!

Regarding starting the bike

As the winter has started. The engine is cold in the morning and my bike doesnt start after many kicks also. My choke is so hard that sometimes its not possible to pull it towards my side it feels like it will break if i apply more pressure so i have to start bike without choke sometimes and the kick is like just to show it is there but i have never managed to start my bike by kickstart but the bike starts by button start only but after few attempts in cold start. In warm condition there is no problem at all the bike starts with first buttonstart only. Help me.

Check your bikes cold RPM (should be above or equal to 1000 Rpm)
change oil to a good one (this may sounds fun but bad oil grade / make will make the things worse)

if all looks fine take it to svc ask them to fine tune the carb

Get the choke cable cleaned and lubricated by the service centre mechanic. It may be cloged. Clean the carburettor plug and re-adjust the gap. If you have used it for more than 12,000 kms, replace it. It is not absolutely necessaryto replace it if it is in good condition. Another suggestion is replacing your engine oil with a lower W index such as 10W40 or 15W40. Castrol power 1, 15W40 part synthetic (not power 1 racing, fully synthetic) may be better. If ready to spend more money, try an iridium plug. But please remember that these two will not result a great increase in mileage or performance. Slightly twist the accelerator when you start the bike.

Which fool told you this nonsense to kick the bike in the morning until it starts, kick it 15 or so times at noon and then use the E S, kick 3 times in the evening and then use E S etc.? What is the level of his technical knowledge? Was he a member of the team designed this bike? Or did he design it himself? He may be a kick addict; nothing else. Keep away from him or he will kick you. He needs an urgent de-addiction treatment. If you know him, get him admitted in a de-addiction centre. A psychiatric treatment may be needed.

Dear friend, do not propagate this kind of utter nonsense. Just chock the engine if it is very cold, start it using the E S button, shift the gear and go. Nothing will happen to your bike. It is not made out of butter or cheese.

The kick start facility is provided to start the bike if the E S facility fails due to poor battery condition or so and nothing else. You can use it in the morning, noon, evening, in night. It is not prohibited to use it in rain or cold atmospheric condition.



Good luck.

Congratulations, Madhu, for finding out the root cause and a solution for rooting out the problem and that too in such a short period of time. Surely a nice job.
All the best.

Common problems

The Suzuki engineers are visiting my place in the next month. I am planning to ask them about the following common problems.

1. Vibration due to the misalignment of windscreen.

3. Poor back brake. (But I think it is helpful to avoid skidding).
4. Bike stalling at certain speeds.
5. Chain getting frequently loose.

7. Engine getting overly heated.
8. Water going inside the fuel tank while raining or washing the bike.

If you have noticed any other problem, please post here.

@ Madhu

Its very kind of you to do such a long post. But in my case even thought every bush was perfectly in place the sound was still coming. So i think the bush alone is not the real problem for the sound. I put double side tape in two layers below the windscreen as shown in the diagram. As for now sound is not coming from visor now.







I think its not a very good idea to use Electric Start all the time. Almost all S.C tell us to use kick start in the morning. I have been following it ever since I began riding. At mornings I kick 2-3 times with engine kill engaged. It can be felt that first kick will be a little tight compared to the later, it may be because the oil isn't there for pistons movement. And then the bike will start within a single kick.

What you said is quite logical ? But I think its good to use ES to a minimum for its long life. And also for the rest of the day the battery will be charged to the maximum. I'm really afraid that you will give a sarcastic reply me. If I'm convinced that what I have been doing is totally waste then Im happy to change it. After all we are here to correct ourselves.

Please include this to your list of common queries, no one can answer this better than the engineers who designed it.

You have answered the reason why the rear brake have lower stopping power. The rear brake is insufficient to stop our heavy weight GS and if there is a pillion its almost impossible to stop our bike without using front brake. It can be used to reduce speed gently. Many of us are used to use only rear brake thats the main problem.

If we have to stop suddenly we have a front disc brake, which has a soft bite and can be safely used even in slow speeds. Its very difficult to use disc brake in Pulsars and Apaches in slow speed as they will suddenly stop the bike.

Under braking the weight is shifted to the front wheel and weight is lifted from the rear wheel. In this condition since there is minimum weight in the rear, on applying rear brake the wheel may lock up which can be very crucial in slippery conditions. So the more the braking power more the chances of wheel lock up.

So i think we can remove that query from your list. Rest of the list summarizes our common queries. Good work bro

Anup try using only two fingers...the fore finger and middle finger to apply the front brake...you can vary the pressure from gentle to harsh.A little practice will make it possible.

Thanks for your tip bro, even now I'm using middle and ring finger to apply front brake.

In city riding conditions we have downshift (trouble of having more gears)while braking and I have a habit of blipping the throttle while downshifting which gives an easier shift and smooth get away.

As many say to use fore and middle finger to brake and the rest to blip the throttle, I just couldn't do it in GS. By the above method I can blip the throttle while downshifting under braking. Do you know anyone doing this ?

thanks yaar it was not only a long post it took me almost 90 minutes time to fix the issue, i was inspired by your trial and error method , thus got a fix

Hope you checked the back end of the bush which should be seated in the metal rod.

if the sound restarts go for the 18 rupees pulsar bush


vishnu,
ask them on oil each service centre is using their favourite brand oil, and only few of them accepting the customer provided oil brand.
moreover per our GS manual suzuki recomended only the oil grade not the oil brand,
in case of honda or yamaha or TVS or Bajaj they have their own brand oil, why suzuki doesn't have one ?

while traveling at high speed to apply sudden break without falling down try the below method

first apply the back break and apply front break in 60:40 method
at the same time dont apply continually just apply break for a second and release it and again apply release continue it till it comes to complete halt

This way sounds weird but will give better result in bringing down the speed with out loosing control, but the draw back is, it will be good to try only if you are almost 20 feet away from the expected crash point.

Sarcastic? You mean barbed? Never. I am not a politician. So please read through my lines; not between them.

One inch forward, two feet backward; again one inch forward, two feet backward.
OK? Hope you got it. Thank you for your suggestions. I really appreciate your readiness to share your knowledge. Regards.

[QUOTE=MSN1;535202]

vishnu,
ask them on oil each service centre is using their favourite brand oil, and only few of them accepting the customer provided oil brand.

in case of honda or yamaha or TVS or Bajaj they have their own brand oil, why suzuki doesn't have one ? QUOTE]

Surely,Madhu. Some service centres are providing oil called Suzuki Genuine. Actually it is Castrol 20W40 but branded as such.
Love.

[QUOTE=vishnukmd;535218]that sounds good,
if that oil comes in 1 ltr pack or can then it is good, but if it is a barrel then no use, because we have no clues when they opened the barrel thus prolonged exposure to air will contaminate the oil quality.