Thanks Bro, I'm trying to read through your lines but however hard I try, I see only "Contempt" in your words. Earlier I was taking an anticipatory bail. I'm quite inept to say anything but motors. Lets be optimistic and hope for best.

Thank you bro, I thought if it took 10 minutes for me to read then how much time it would have taken for you to type the whole post that too in your cell phone. Really commendable.

Yeah I checked by detaching the side panel. And also I went to Bajaj show room and asked for the rubber nut. They call it as "Nut-Well", Rs.7/- per piece. The nut well was quite similar to our GS's. One cannot expect to remove the sound just by changing to Pulsars.

The bottom two nut-wells are floating in the visor whereas the top two are fixed to metallic structure. It seemed to lack rigidity and hence the sound. The windscreen is quite hard, so i thought it would be better if the windscreen is firmly hold against the visor to add rigidity. And it seems to be working for the time being

while traveling at high speed to apply sudden break without falling down try the below method
In Kawasaki Ninja thread there are quite many posts about the the braking technique. What you just stated is correct if its an anticipated braking. But the combination of front and rear brake should be according to the braking requirement and the feedback from the bike. First apply rear brake to dive the forks into the fork tubes and then then start applying the front brake. As PSR mentioned start by a gentle squeeze and then giving a hell. This would make the weight transition smooth and also the front tires wont give away(lock up) by doing so.

This goes for anticipatory braking, but at times of panic braking we just dont get time to do all these. At those times it will be better if we concentrate only on front brake. But always increase the brake force gently. Its always better if we can avoid panic situation by anticipation and riding safely.

The best way is to practice our braking technique when ever we can like parking lot, vacant road etc. Make sure no one is following us. By this way we can make our braking technique a muscle memory which will handle any panic situation

I am sure i did fixed my issue two days back the bottom two are not floating type, i believe thats causing the sound for you

those bottom two are also associated to metalic structure please see again and fix it

Do they have metallic support ? I think that may be the reason for sound. Now after sticking the double side tape its no more noisy. It wont be good to open the visor every now and then. I will open when it become noisy again. Thanks bro

Ok, after reading through the last few pages, i'm confused. How exactly can you identify this visor noise ? i dont think i have this problem, but i just want to check again anyway because my visor has been opened once by SC for beam adjusting, and those screws have scratches, probably from the screw driver, on it.

@anupdas: you stuck the double layer sticky tape on the visor as shown in that pic ?? it looks ugly as hell, i hope that was just some paintbrush thing and the actual tape was inside. (i couldn't click on the pic and zoom in to see it clearly so i asked)

@ Falcon

Its been long time buddy. As you said its just a a "paint job" showing how i sticked the double side tape on the inside of windscreen. I think you dont have that problem, else you would have noticed the sound coming from visor around 4K rpm.

The problem occur only if the visor rubber bush is not fixed properly but it
seems in your case its fixed in the right way

to check so just drive the bike on 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th gear at 3.5k to 4k RPM and the vibration noise will come from visor exactly or some where close to our GS rough spot in the 3.5 k to 4 k RPM

First time my visor was opened by the local mechanic to host the ultra blue lamp, but that time the vibration issue didn't occurred but
second time during 5th service i asked our well suzuki trained service engineers to fix the default head lamp bulb then it started

About breaking of the bike

It has been nearly 7 years since i started to use a vehicle. Before that i was using a bicycle. Right from when i was using bicycle i am used to both break applying system and i use it till now no matter which bike i use. I dont get how people manage to stop the bike using only rear break. I never push only the rear break hard to stop the bike. Its always some amount of front and some of rear and i think its the best way to do it. I have used a bajaj spirit before and a cd100 too and i have used the same way in both. And one more thing its not that we can tell the exact breaking percentage in figures like 60-40 or 70-30 it totally depends on the current condition of breaks in that bike. As we apply the breaks each time they are becoming loose by small amount so each time the percentage may differ. Its totally your skill, timing and most important muscle memory.
Now coming to gs as gs has a front disc break i had thought it would be difficult to use it as they make bike stop instantly but in gs the disc breaks are not that hard as on pulsar. I think its good otherwise in other bikes its like they are made to throw off from your bike. I still use both breaks in gs and i dont think breaking is a serious issue in gs. As you go on driving you become good at breaking too.

Nice one bro, the proportion 60:40 can be read as , Let 100% be the force required to stop the bike. In that 60% is from front and 40% is by rear brake. This is only a theoretical value, as you said we can only brake with the feedback from bike.

I have a habit of stamping rear brake in panic situations. Since I also use front brake progressively I never locked up the rear wheel. Thanks to lower braking power of rear brake, if it was more powerful definitely the wheel would have locked up.

Also there was situations where I used only front brake and since the bike was in an upright position even after slightly locking the front wheel(screeching sound ) it remained in straight line.

I have seen many of friends riding zig-zag and by tilting excessively after entering the corner too fast. By using the grip of tyre alone we can do such fancy maneuvers but in that position if we need to brake it will be really hard to keep bike in control . By anticipation we avoid excessive tilting and our pillion will feel much relaxed.

Ok, tried it out, my bike doesn't have these vibrations at the visor.
Guess i should try and avoid opening the headlight assembly unless absolutely needed to avoid this prob.

Yup, its been long time. How was your industrial training experience ?

visor bottom two screws connection

Hi anup,

Sorry man this morning I checked the inside connection point (holding point) of the bottom two bush they are not connected to the metal road but sitting firmly (tight) on the fiber

May be you didn tight it properly because those two screws needs more rotations(need to screw it more you can detect it with the feel on the effort applyed from your hands) to settle.

300km in 7hrs

Yesterday, went for a 300km ride from mumbai to igatpuri on GSR with my wife.
Bike runs exceptionally well on the highways, even on kasara ghat, could ride the bike in 4-5 gears. great bike, the most comfy of the current lot.
Kept a constant speed of 70-80kph 50% of the time. Amazing handling at highways. Fantastic tourer. Loved the experience. After yesterday's drive, plan to go for even longer drives on GSR.

Only wish the seats were a more softer. Butt is not in the best of shape after the long ride.

By floating I meant that only. I too noted that they needed more turns than the others. I did tighten them to their maximum point.

After 6th service bike is running like butter and the noise from the visor is almost gone together with taping. Changed oil and oil filter and bike is revving stress free, great improvement in throttle response. Now that bike is nearing the 10 K mark I'm planning to put Fully synthetic oil.

@ Sumitdey

That was some awesome riding bro, no matter how much we ride we will never get tired of GS.

I'm still feeling like a child who got a new toy

Anup This is may give you more clarity on visor bottom screw and bush

Anup This is may give you more clarity on visor bottom screw and bush

As you said earlier most of your riding is close to 70, 80 and 90 kmph synthetic will help your engine at during top end performance


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Checked with my local mechanic on connecting the Pilot lamps to DC
he gave the following options

* With a separate switch for pilot lamp
* connecting to break lamp port (but light only if break is applied)
* connect to DC directly thru a wire (this is the bad option because its all time on
* connect to DC like the tail lamp this sounds better coz if i turn on the head lamp this will be on like the tail lamp

Let me know which way is good and do tell me if we have any other better way to do

hello everyone i am a new GS owner i got my black last week, and i am facing some problems with my GS that is some sound comes from engine i approached SC but they cant able to fix it please help me to fix it
as per one local mech. guy said:
1 tappet noise
2 some noise from clutch side not from chain
3 primary secondary wheel noise inside engine

and also i compared my bike other GS. my GS is much noise and i cant feel the real smoothness in my GS.
please help me to fix this.
thanks.

Welcome to the world of GSPians,

Their is only one solution for you, approach the place from where you bought it don't leave them till the issue gets resolved.

Also post your issue / concern with the dealer and other details in the below web link

Suzuki Motorcycle Corporate Office

By the way you are from which city