Hello mates,

I'm facing two issues with my bike.

1. Gear shifts have become hard.
2. The throttle, only when the bike is started, is very hard to rotate but becomes normal once it is raised a bit. Then no hardness is faced from then on.

Any pointers on above issue would be very helpful. Thanks in advance!

Cheers!

Hello mates,

I'm facing two issues with my bike.

1. Gear shifts have become hard.
2. The throttle, only when the bike is started, is very hard to rotate but becomes normal once it is raised a bit. Then no hardness is faced from then on.

Any pointers on above issue would be very helpful. Thanks in advance!

Cheers!

Check Chain slack (40-45mm) if not adjust clutch.

Check throttle free play, it's mentioned in manual. Even if it still causing issue then you'll have to lube wire. For lubing you can use chain lube too.

1. Clutch adjustment or possible oil change
2. Get the throttle cable checked and grease'd to see if that helps. Its monsoon and most likely there must be something holding it up from inside the cable.

Please go throw this video this will help... Am done same on my bike now it's butter smooth.

Okay. You're pretty inclined to disagree, so I'll agree. You're right. I'll change my clutch plate at 1 lakh km and come back to you.

8k 3rd Service update.....

Till now no compliant bike running quite good...

Installed & Repairs

01-Crash Guard 1200+120 Laber =1320
02-Front Break Pads 600+ 200 Laber=800
03-Motul 7100 4T 10W-40,
04-NGK iridium spark plug 650+20 Laber (Done by local shop)

After Oil Change not much difference till 100km, Now am done 250km bike felt smoother, Engine become quieter and less vibration then before and felt little quicker then before.

Hello mates,

I'm facing two issues with my bike.

1. Gear shifts have become hard.
2. The throttle, only when the bike is started, is very hard to rotate but becomes normal once it is raised a bit. Then no hardness is faced from then on.

Any pointers on above issue would be very helpful. Thanks in advance!

Cheers!

8k 3rd service is it not too early? Service interval for FZ25 is 5k km's.

Hello [emoji112]
Any steel braided brake line available that is direct fit in fz?

Duke 200s is a direct fit...

Hi have you tried it ? Any notable difference?

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On my bike the tappets come very very slightly out of adjustment in 5 to 6000km. The manual says check every 5000km anyway. If adjusted correctly then very negligible sound from the engine head.

Noticed the timing chain is made by Morse. Expected DID since this is a Japanese bike. Just an observation.

Some friend of mine have tried it. The bite has increased noticeably and sponginess has reduced.

Duke 200s is a direct fit...

very useful video, nice job.

iirc, you were the guy who posted about fz25's alternator being 162w. do you mind sharing where did you found that info ? because i'm also looking to install aux spotlights but i can't find alternator current rating anywhere, it's nowhere on user manual/ workshop manual/ training manual. only thing i found is it's rated at 14.4+/- 4v @ 5000rpm but nothing about amps.


btw, i also did some testing attached multimeter on battery's negative side terminal (let me know if this is a bad way to calculate amps rating), and found out fuel-pump's current requirement. it's around 1.4-1.6 amps @ 13.6v. other components take following current @ 13.6v -

1. LED console - 0.40amps
2. Both 5w bulbs - 0.74amps (0.37amps each)
3. Tail light - 0.20amps
4. Brake light - 0.45amps
5. Turn signals - 1.46amps (2.86amps if both sides are on)
6. Fuel pump - 1.60amps (this also includes ECU's power consumption because pump won't run unless ECU is on)
---------------------------------------------
Total - 4.85amps @13.6v = ~ 66watts (46watts without turn signals)


Note: this doesn't include headlights, horn and ignition system's power consumption as bike wouldn't crank when multi-meter was attached. but we know headlights are rated at 26+9w. but no idea about horn as i forgot to take readings for it. and ignition system should be 5-10w but it's just pure guess.


so basically we have 162-(66+26+9)= 61w (with blinkers on) or 81w left for aux lights + ignition+ battery charging as we don't use turn signals and horn always. now only thing i need is proof for 162w rating for alternator. and then i'm pretty much done with aux lights of either 20wx2 or 40wx2.


Edit: i forgot to mention, it also doesn't include injector's power consumption as well. as i don't know if it turns on or not while priming.

I found that 162w rating in workshop manual. There is load test meter which is used to test how much load any equipment can take. The way you tested is not right. I am using 24w+24w aux without any issue. R15 have 160w and runs 70w HL. So there is a room in FZ25 as well. An estimate load test would be to connect multimeter to battery on a DC voltage point. That would show, i dont know whatever maybe like 13-14v with crank variable rpm. Then connect 55/60w bulb to check if the voltage drops at 5k rpm. At low it will. If doesn't drop then it means battery is taking that load and alternator is providing sufficient power at 5k rpm. That type of test will give some insights which i will do soon