Got 2nd service done today. Costed about 2200 inr. Got one of rear view mirrors changed. Costed only rs182 + tax. Thats pretty cheap and quality is good.

Thinking of gifting one to (imaginary) girlfriend to keep in purse. Whenever she wants to check hair/makeup etc.

After 2nd service, acceleration has increased quiet noticeably.

I was under impression its a very quaint machine. But now its ready to fly even if I don't want it to. Have to be careful with throttle. Its somewhat scary.

under normal conditions you wouldn't need to adjust the chain at-least until around 4k km. why don't you try this: bump up the rear suspension by 1 point and check if you still notice the noise.
prices seem to vary from svc to svc when it comes to chain maintenance (adjust/clean/lube).
adjusting the chain isn't different from other bikes.. but a paddock definitely makes the work easier.

i get the chain adjusted if required and it is mostly at regular services.. i dont get charged separately for it.
even the one off case where i need to get it adjusted outside a service, my svc will do it for free/complementary (i just tip the guy 50rs).
the chain lubing part, again the svc i visit will do it for free (they use used engine oil to clean/lube the chain) and sometimes i provide the lube in a can (nulon grease spray) if am heading out on a tour or riding in the wet. some people might scoff at using used engine oil to lube a chain.. but i don't care it works well for me and am not advising this to anyone. my chain and sprockets are happy at 38k km (with only the front sprocket changed at around 27k km).
i am lucky to have a svc close to where i live that won't charge for chain clean/lube or small 5 min adjustments/work.. and also a good rapport with them helps. when it comes to certain other aspects they do behave like any other svc

Anything specific they did more compared to the first service as the cost is 2200 compared to approx 1400 for the first service ?
Any parts they changed ?

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----



I think they keep the rev limiter till 8k or 10k after the 1st service and remove it fully once the 2nd service is done.
Somebody correct me if I am wrong here.

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----



I will try out the suspension idea which u suggested and report back.
And that's great news to have an SVC for small small works to be done like chain lubing cleaning and tightening.
I also went with the same impression that I will give out some 70 80 rs for the chain tightening and then when the guy quoted 160 bucks and filling the job card.
I was like for such a small task job card and all..and then i left the SVC..

Great news on your sprockets for getting so much life out of it.
i didnt know they can change individual sprockets .. how much did the front sprocket alone cost ?

HI All,

Why is the Insurance cost for the Duke 390 so high compared to the RE 650 Twins, if I'm not wrong insurance is based on the value of the bike.

Regards,
Mohan

Anything specific they did more compared to the first service as the cost is 2200 compared to approx 1400 for the first service ?
Any parts they changed ?

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----
as he mentioned, the filters are changed at second service (air, oil, fuel) and they together cost around 500rs.. and sometimes the spark plug (though not really required)


I think they keep the rev limiter till 8k or 10k after the 1st service and remove it fully once the 2nd service is done.
Somebody correct me if I am wrong here.

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----
there is no such rev limiter setting, what they set is just the shift light which is a visual indicator and can be set to whatever you want. the rev limiter kicks in at 10500rpm irrespective of the so called 'setting' they do.


I will try out the suspension idea which u suggested and report back.

Great news on your sprockets for getting so much life out of it.
i didnt know they can change individual sprockets .. how much did the front sprocket alone cost ?
ktm mostly will not sell you just the individual sprockets. for the 200's the front sprocket from a p220 is the same part, which i bought from a local spares shop.. cost is 150rs, plus 100rs labor. like i said i have a good rapport/friendly svc, they will do the labor if you provide the part.

my replies in bold above

Also when standing at a signal, do you guys switch off the engine using the key or the engine cut off switch. I think i had read in the manual that you should not frequently use the engine cut off switch but make more use of the key to switch off the engine. Dont know how much of this is correct.

I always used to use the engine cut off switch in my Apache for 6 years and the switch held up pretty well. Dont know how will be the case with our Duke 390s.

I have read about this but usually manufacturers warn not to use Kill Switch is because they want to avoid battery drain in case you forget to turn off the bike and also flooding of engine in case you forget to turn on the kill switch.
There's a very good video about this in MC garage channel.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0S4nMx_tbA

There's nothing wrong in using the engine kill switch. The reason most provide engine kill switch is for them emergencies, where in one can easily kill the engine while still holding to the bike or in other words staying in control. Some say, it will weaken the CDI, the ignition coil, and what not, and this isn't the case. An engine kill switch is an easy and effective method to kill the engine without any problems per se. The only thing one has to keep in mind and as you've already pointed out is to make sure one turn the ignition off and remove the key.

I use the kill switch almost all the time to kill the engine, and there have been instances where I've forgotten to to remove the key with the ignition and dash on for several minutes. Luckily, the battery didn't drain. But I would STRONGLY recommend everyone to remove the key and use the ignition if possible.

Lastly, if it were to lead to issues, the manufacturer wouldn't put them in the first place.

Cheers!
VJ

There's nothing wrong in using the engine kill switch. The reason most provide engine kill switch is for them emergencies, where in one can easily kill the engine while still holding to the bike or in other words staying in control. Some say, it will weaken the CDI, the ignition coil, and what not, and this isn't the case. An engine kill switch is an easy and effective method to kill the engine without any problems per se. The only thing one has to keep in mind and as you've already pointed out is to make sure one turn the ignition off and remove the key.

I use the kill switch almost all the time to kill the engine, and there have been instances where I've forgotten to to remove the key with the ignition and dash on for several minutes. Luckily, the battery didn't drain. But I would STRONGLY recommend everyone to remove the key and use the ignition if possible.

Lastly, if it were to lead to issues, the manufacturer wouldn't put them in the first place.

Cheers!
VJ

Never imagined Ktm would be this worst .
Too many issues cropping up.
1) fan not working and bike stalling in the middle of the peek traffic in sarjapur and jr market flyouver with only 1.5k on the odo..
This time the left frame near the engine had scratch marks in them [emoji2959].
2)coolant mixing with engine oil and engine had to be opened at 10k. And they charged me for the engine oil and they couldn't providers the engine oil checking glass window for 2 months with constant checking with the showroom. During this process they had made mark in the engine casing which can't be covered unless the case in changed [emoji35].
3)fan again not working with odo 14.5k. mailed Ktm and the service people took the bike at the earliest. but when the bike was returned the radiator protection plastic guard was not fitted properly with one nut missing and other one loose. Then on proper checking found out that radiator fins were damaged.


Ktm-bajaj was very close to my heart after all these ****ups I don't think they deserve that much money or respect.
My old pulsar220 was way reliable than this shit, I never gave it for service, only used to change oil and used to rip the shit out of it still it was rock solid @62k on odo when I sold it..

Complained in Ktm website, then the mechanic called and argued that the radiator dent was before only to which I didn't listen then he said he would get it repaired from radiator repairing people..I wasn't convinced about this and called the manager even he said that same.. talked as if I was asking money from his pocket. If they can't repair the damage caused by them then why the heck wont they handle it properly. ****ing chutes ..

This has completely lost all my love for the brand. They should properly train their mechanics and then release any product..

In-between all this the front fork is leaking [emoji2959].

I am pretty much sure they wouldn't replace your entire radiator readily abhi unless there is pressure from the top brass. Secondly, the dent being so minimal, it wouldn't impact the cooling system, operation or efficiency negatively. I see a few fins bent, you can mend them using a safety pin and touch it up with black paint, so that it isn't an eye sore. At least think of it this way, it could have been a lot worse. If you keep thinking about little things, they eat your mind and you lose your peace of mind.

Secondly, your leaking forks are a matter of concern, yes. If you're under warranty, I'd recommend you to replace the fork seals and fork oil and make sure your forks are clean before the fork seal installation. IIRC, it seems you have this recurring issue of fork leak, it means either your fork slider is pitted or your fork is put through torture, i.e. wheelies, hard landings, and what not, this can cause premature seal wear. Or it can simply mean, improper fork seal installation.

Keep your observations posted.

Cheers!
VJ

Evening the mechanic called and said we will replace the radiator with new one so went there got it done..
It was not repairable with safety pins, it was pushed on that nut below it while installing hence the mark was like a hole...
Fork seal I showed to him he said it wont be covered with warranty and said there is no stock of the seal.. he inserted some plastic thing to clear the dust off the seal.
From beginning as in when the bike was just 1k km old there was slight leakage, nothing alarming, but this time the leakage was more, as in it was spilled on the black part of the fork anything more it might land on the disc.

Anyway too many issues cropping up with the bike, never thought this would be the case...

Sorry to hear about your problems. I was also doubting that the fork-seals will be covered under warranty as they might straightforward say that you jumped in some pothole at high speeds and broke them by your mistake. And Bangalore is famous for potholes and rims getting bent which they also know.

One thing which anyone here can avoid in future is standing with the bike when they get serviced. I mean if possible.
As i am seeing in your case the SVC guys telling that the case scratches and the radiator damages were already there even though they might have done it.

If you are with the bike the whole time chances at least reduce by some extent for such issues. I hope all your issues get resolved soon and you are back on the bike asap.