congrats for the menace

when you turn on the bike the ABS light blinks up to check for ABS configuration and when you ride the bike from 0-10km/h speed the ABS will be configured and the light will off(or you can say light will not glow anymore) and ABS light will only glow in case when ABS will be having any error or when you switched off the ABS by pressing ABS button 4-5 secs don,t press ABS button more than 10 secs it will reset the ABS which is not recommended by TVS

that's GR8 you back on the road ....and sad to see your menace like this

Guys,
My bike's gear box has become really bad now after 15000 kms. It is hard especially the first and the second gears, finding neutral is another problem. Will replacing the clutch plates solve the problem? I haven't changed it yet.

I saw the parts catalogue but I'm not convinced with that since the km at which brake pads, clutch plates are all changed are very less so I want to know what is the usual range (Bike used only for regular commute and sometimes touring) at which the following parts are replaced/done (I know it varies from person to person, but still.. ):

1. Clutch plates
2. Brake pads (rear & front)
3. Clutch & Throttle cable
4. Cylinder head cleaning
5. Engine flushing (This is recommended by the service center people everytime I go)

- from the above I've just replaced clutch cable once at 11000 kms and rear brake pad at 14000 kms.

1.Clutch Plates- have rode 32 k kms,with the stock plates,which are still good(I do a lot of fast ripping and wheelies)
2.Rear break pads are changed twice(11000 & 30000 kms).front still stock,though lost the bite.
3.changed the throttle cable once(20000 kms) and clutch cable once(25000 kms)
4.cleaned the cylinder head recently at 31000 kms.
The internals, I feel are of great quality.If you are sure of your clutch plates ,then change it.But it should have lasted atleast 30k kms.

and changed the Rear break "disc" once.

Which oil are you using ? Try switching to fully synthetic oil, gear shifts will become a lot smoother, ignore if you are running on full syn already.

Hey thanks, 32k seems to be a long way. So I feel its got nothing to do with the clutch plates, because I'm a decent rider who never "clutch" ride at all.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm totally new to this full synthetic oils since I've always believed in what the manufacturer recommends and till date I've had no problems with my earlier bikes. If this TVS TRU 4 oil is what made my bike like this I will very well change this mind set of mine. All I want is a smooth engine with smooth gear changes. Tell me what are all to be taken care while I change it like flushing the oil tank, any change in oil filter ..etc.,.

Suggest me a brand and what would be its cost and oil change interval?

Recommended grade is 10W 30 which is actually not good in hot climates.
You can try 10 W40.Since you have been using TVS Tru4(correct me if this not mineral oil) switch to Semi Synthetic oil(Shell Ax7 or Castrol Power1) then switch to full synthetic oils(Shell Ultra). I recently switched to Shell Ultra, Gear shifts are a lot smoother and I could notice lesser vibes as well.

Oil change interval for semi syn oil what i followed is for every 2.5k kms for fully syn it should last for 4k kms.

Please check older posts as well lot of discussions happened recently on this topic.

Took delivery of my RTR 180 ABS today

Hello guys,

My 4 month old RTR160 (1450 km, 2 free services done, using Shell AX5 engine oil) is troubling me:

1) Engine misfiring: I had this issue right from day 1 but it was fixed during 1st servicing. The issue resurfaced after 2nd servicing and it still persists. I told the SVC guys to fix it yet again. They kept my bike for a day and returned it to me saying they've cleaned the spark plug.

Bike makes "phat-phat-phat" sound at high RPM (especially when rolling down a slope). SVC guys have given up and have advised me to use better quality petrol and additives. I'm using normal HP petrol. Should I switch to "Speed" petrol. Will doing so fix this issue of engine misfiring?

2) Front disc brake makes loud screeching noise when I apply the brake. This issue persists since 2nd servicing. It was non-existent until then. What should be done to fix this? SVC guys didn't do anything.

3) Idling RPM varies according to surrounding temperature and engine temperature. After riding my bike continuously for 15 mins, idling RPM shoots up to almost 2.5k RPM. How to fix this? SVC guys have given up. They're unable to fix it. Do all RTRs have this issue?

4) There are some noticeable scratches on my bike including a couple of them on the headlight. How to remove such scratches?

RTR owners and others please help me out...

Your carb tuning is screwed.Did you tell the svc guy that you are getting low mileage?
Your bike is running too lean.And when takkin your bike for a wash, blow compressed air on to the brake pads.I think your problem will be resolved.

Most mechs dont knot shit about tuning and if you believe them,your bike only has a problem when it's un-rideable.

I would try SS for the moment and I have no idea where to get these lubs. Kindly guide me on that too. Thanks

Mis-firing could be the result of a lean mixture. If your service guys give-up on issues as small as this, you are in a definite need to the change the service center. Nothing to do with the quality of petrol.

It could be that the pads did not break-in properly. Try and ask the service guy to take the brake pads out, scrub them with sand paper and fix it back. If the issue still persists, you'd have to change the pads. The same thing happened to my bike's rear pads some time back.

Do you fiddle with the idle-screw everyday?

After running your bike for about 15-20 minutes (i.e when the engine has warmed up sufficiently), set the idle rpm at 1400 or 1500 rpms.

DO NOT change this setting afterwards. During cold starts, simply use the choke cable and let the engine warm-up on its own for at the very least 1 minute.


I am hearing a strange clunky sound from the front while braking hard. Are these signs of a battered cone-set? Can anyone enlighten me on this? And please, do quote the price of this thing as well...Thanks!

I had the same problem and it is nothing but pathetic tuning by the mechanics. They'll give all sorts of excuses, in my case they replaced spark plug,they were even checking the terminal which is right below the seat ! I just kept insisting it is due to improper tuning and made the best mechanic to come and tune it. This guy was also saying it wont be due to improper tuning but after me insisting again and again this guy sat, tuned it properly with the correct number of turns and the bike was perfect. Then they were all scratching their heads in disbelief and I left the SVC bewildered how can a mechanic not know a simple thing like the bike is not properly tuned ?

Hey thanks for the this useful info..now i got it..

To check the cone set, chose an open level road with less traffic, do the free hand ride for a few meters. See if the handle is remaining in the st line or swaying here and there (by itself, not due to road profile, important). IF in doubt, take to a good mech

This particular sound can also come when the front shock absorbers are suddenly stressed to the max...