When draining put it in a clean container, or the engine oil bottle itself to save oil.

Today had a bad experience for my bike and for me too.
Left my gf at her home and was going back home, stopped in between for water,noticed few drops of engine oil from Engine oil drain nut, thought of reaching the showroom asap. But just drove 4-5kms and again noticed the drops. And after 500mtrs, I just noticed that rear tyre is wobbling (was at 50-55kmph), looked back and saw tyre was on oil spill, stopped at the side of the road with 'these tyres' and *whoosh* all the engine oil drained out. Pushed the bike for 6-7kms only to find all shops closed and my home was still 35kms away, got a mechanic who said 17number nut would work, found a nut but it was small, it needs 19 now, no shop, no help .
And as always India is famous for "jugaad", the mechanic got an old spark plug, washed it with diesel, rinsed it, and fitted it, and guess what its a direct fit (upside down i.e. white portion outside), got castrol active and rushed home.

Now the questions :
1. What nut RTR used for engine oil nut?
2. Should I change it now or wait for 1500kms for engine oil change as changing nut means changing oil in just 40kms??

Engine Oil drained out...? How ..! i think its a issue with all rtr's even in my Efi i've change Drain nut and its assembly 4-5time but never faced such serious issue . This is serious i mean how the hell engine oil just drained out..? Drain bolt was there or it was missing..? Please do change complete assembly ASAP as it costs hardly 300-350Rs .

It is such bull sh*t that I just cannot tolerate. WHY do TVS have to do such stupid things? They should make better tyres if they need to sell it properly. Instead, doing such unheard of things. Tuning brakes for TVS tyres!!
And now if anyone puts in another tyre, they will say u changed tyres, no more warranty!! God!!

This is serious i mean how the hell engine oil just drained out..? Drain bolt was there or it was missing..? .

Thanks guys! As many would base their buying decision on my experience, here is my short report on the brakes: The braking is awesome! Worth the extra 10 K if you think your limb is more worthy.

I tested it on my most dreaded road surface - Post-rain, loose gravel strewn patch.
Run 1 - With the ABS on and at 60 kmph, I grabbed the brakes on this surface as I know for sure that wheels will lock instantly. I could feel strong pulses on the levers and the wheels being released several times, was able to stop right on the patch without losing composure.
Run 2 - With ABS off and at 20 kmph (didn't want to take the risk of falling), I just tapped the front brake lever on the same patch and there went the wheel screeeecching!

My opinion - ABS works and can be a life or limb saver. However, the TVS user manual advices not to test the ABS system but to use it, as it has been tested extensively .

On the downside, I cannot use any other tires for the lifetime of the vehicle because, TVS warns that the ABS system has been tuned for the TVS tires and usage of any other tires would hamper the ABS tuning! (Marketing technique?? maybe, but I don't want to risk safety)

I was very apprehensive about the performance of brakes in case of HECU failure, since the brake lines do not run straight to the brakes from the levers. TVS has cleared this in their manual, stating that the braking system would work like any other disc brake in case of HECU failure.

Warning: The ABS system is not a traction control system. So do not think it will help you in case of hard braking around the corners. For example, the front wheel lost traction while I was climbing up a slippery ramp at office, as I leaned too much and was not braking. Fortunately, was able to regain balance.

Have rode for 120 kms so far. Will post more information as my experience with the brakes grows!

Also Guys, had a weird problem today,was driving at nearly 55km/hr, suddenly the engine gave a race!! No gear shift or breaking or clutch!! just constant at that speed!! Due to it My tachometer started acting weird! It showed 55km/hr in 5th gear below 3k rpm!! But then turned bike on and off then back to normal. Me worried Guys!!

The Dealer is just for namesake I think. If I tell them a issues with they bike all they will say is "Sir, please go to the Service Center. They will surely fix the problem. Also I will give them a call. Hope You know the address?" and if I got to the Service Centre (About 10min later)still they won't get any call from the Dealer. And as about being Customer Centric by the Dealer, when ever I call them is "Sir, I will call You back in 10 min with the information. " And I have them back them after half an hour or so.(Happened 6 times!!)
Hope servicing fixes the shift problem. And I'm gonna sit on their necks and make the problem go. Imagine You are in a junction crossing a road and You shift and bike get's stuck!! So dangerous!! And it happened to Me!!
And Wow! If a pothole is beautiful then the road on which I drive is a part of breathtaking scenery!! I'm gonna make the SVC guys soak in their sweat till they make Her smooth again. And Yeah, will go to authorised SVC only. Won't allow anyone else to Touch My Babe!! Thanks a lot!! And My fingers will be crossed too!!





Hmm.. I thought that We have to keep Rev above 4k for battery to get charged.
Said all this to the SVC. They told Me to get the bike tomorrow as it is closed today.
Also That's what the SVC guy said about battery. That there might be a charging circuit problem as I had charged battery from them earlier and it ran good for a week or so.

I'm a newbie in this kind of things such as fitting screws and all that in a bike. So won't be possible for Me to do it now. But would Love to get My hands dirtier after I learn how to. Till then SVC.


I didn't quite understand the clutch engaging point. Could You pls elaborate?

Will try about the idle rpm by Myself. Will set to default if it doesn't work. I should keep the bike running while doing so, right?

And Nope. It's not only the Visor. The whole unit vibrates. Checked for screws but couldn't find any.

Thank You for the info!! Also I want to ask one thing specially. I cruise at 40km/hr in 5th gear, about 3k to 3.5k rpm. Is it ok?




Could You pls elaboratee?

Are you riding on full clutch or half clutch that s what he asked about clutch engagin point , When shifting gear if its needed to fully let go of lever to get the bike moving then its full clutch default factory setting not recommended for long use.Ask sc guys to adjust free play.

and plz DONT FOOL around with the air/fuel ratio i,e the screw below tank,Default setting gives a superb mileage once you fiddle with it you get all sorts of issue if done incorrectly(misfiring,running too lean on fuel vibs will increase etc)

Crusing is fine at mentioned speeds shift down if rpm goes below 3 and shift up at 4 dont pull from n'th gear if rpm s at 2

and about that noise i too have it , ride with only the key (to check if its coming from key chain if its metal or hard) and some say its because of front fork oil , but this issue is there will many ppl dont know what s the exact issue to me

+1 seriously

VIRUS !!!!

its as kantu said...

and you can start meddling with your bike.... i stated repairing my 180 within 2 hours of delivery..starting with this idling screw...and have done things to all parts except whats inside the cranckcase

Wow! Only 2 hours and already!! And yeah, who has patience once We have the Babe in our hand !!
Although have only got till battery part while exploring the bike. Also, while keeping the tool pack, noticed that there are few wires in the area. won't the tool pack meddle with those wires??