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Re: Royal Enfield Thunderbird 350 Owners Experiences
Originally posted by Vikram Vijaykumar View PostMate first check your bikes breather Pipe I'm sure it's cracked or broken. Proper idling for cold engine is 800-900rpm and for warm engine is 1000-1100rpm.
Bro I already checked & breather pipe is OK.
After 4-5 kms my engine can idle at 1500 rpm, I preset idle rpm (1200) in cold condition. But still facing problem in initial kms. I think it is an issue of pre engine heating.
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Re: Royal Enfield Thunderbird 350 Owners Experiences
There is no issue its normal with all Thunderbirds. Its sound which comes due to high pressure oil flow till brake callipers.Originally posted by ponbaarathi View PostI am hearing some hissing noise(keech keech type) from front disc whenever i applied brake. What is the issue?Thanks,
Anway Kale.
Dominar 400 (2018- Counting)
Benelli Tnt 25 (2016- 2018)
Royal Enfield Thunderbird 350 (2014-15)
Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTSI (2010-13)
Hero Honda CBZ Xtreme (2008-10)
Hero Honda Ambition (2007-08)
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Re: Royal Enfield Thunderbird 350 Owners Experiences
Using it since I purchased my bike in February 2016.suffered a major puncture where someone purposefully pierced a big nail in my rear tyre.it sealed the puncture well.also the liquid that oozed out was minimal.sealed up as soon as in reinflated air.it protects well.Heard that it doesn't help in case of multiple punctures.Originally posted by ponbaarathi View PostWhich one?? Slime ? A brief explanation would be great[emoji4]
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Re: Royal Enfield Thunderbird 350 Owners Experiences
My new TB350 . Happy to be an Enfield man.
----consecutive posts auto-merged-----
I have clocked 463 Km till now and have done the service of my bike - by myself . Things I did :-
1. Engine oil change - (OEM I dont want to use other company) - Used Liquid gun and I have no problem with that - no tappet noise/speed is normal/no pickup problem/no mileage problem/no reduction in performance.
2. Oil filter changed.
3. Spark plug cleaned - the right hand side was reallllly tough to get the spark plug / the left hand side was hell easy !! . The right hand side plug took me nearly 10min to get out because of the L-shaped connector . I have not removed the fuel tank to get access to the plugs - but yes it can be done without removing the tank - seen it on youtube from there I saw.
3. Air filter checked - not dirty - clean .
4. Battery is MF - but cleaned the terminal and have provided vaseline to the to +/- terminal points.
5. Front disk brake cleaned.
6. Rear brake cleaned.
7. Fuse check + connection wire check - specially the light bulbs and the spark plugs.
8. Water washed with soap - have to take extra precaution because of the matt colour.
9. Fuel line check - for loose closing.
10. Tyre pressure checked - refilled.
Things noticed before and after
Before :-
1. Engine was rough and used to heat up fast.
2. Tappet noise was high.
3. Mileage was low.
4. Pickup was so so.
After:-
1. Engine is smooth
2. Less heat.
3. No tappet noise. #If noise comes during start then it is normal as the tappets are hydraulic not like any other normal tappets - which is good as no need to adjust the tappets in future - yahoo !
4. Speed has increased along with pick-up.
5. Mileage is now at 40kmpl/600 KM range.
Oil used - OEM
Oil filter used - OEM
Time of service - 7:54 AM
End of service - 1:14 PM
Conclusion - I am grateful to xbhp for the DIY guidance and instruction . Long live xbhp and my TB350 !
----consecutive posts auto-merged-----
Your rpm needle is high. Normal should be 980-1000 , 1100 is the max . My advice run the bike for few km after that check what is the rpm need is if it is above the specified value then set it / if that does not help may be your carburetor setting is lean(i dont think that would be the case). Mine is 980 during cold start and 1050 during normal temp.
----consecutive posts auto-merged-----Originally posted by Andrew_sumit View PostBro I already checked & breather pipe is OK.
After 4-5 kms my engine can idle at 1500 rpm, I preset idle rpm (1200) in cold condition. But still facing problem in initial kms. I think it is an issue of pre engine heating.
Have you checked your spokes of you motorcycle may be one of it might be loose - or have you checked the tire pressure !
Originally posted by jayanth_b_p View PostThe reason i said crosswinds was, i go on a ride almost every 2 weeks, this the 2nd time i faced this issue in the last 6 months or so (last time near belguam). The wind speed on that particular day was close to 36km/hr( had checked on accu weather) . Electra also had a same issue when suddenly a Hugh breeze comes from the side the bike was being pushed. I'm not saying that R15 & electra had no issues but mine was the worst( I did rode all 3 bikes as well to confirm the same).Alert
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Re: Royal Enfield Thunderbird 350 Owners Experiences
Originally posted by Rohan12 View PostMy new TB350 . Happy to be an Enfield man.
----consecutive posts auto-merged-----
I have clocked 463 Km till now and have done the service of my bike - by myself . Things I did :-
1. Engine oil change - (OEM I dont want to use other company) - Used Liquid gun and I have no problem with that - no tappet noise/speed is normal/no pickup problem/no mileage problem/no reduction in performance.
2. Oil filter changed.
3. Spark plug cleaned - the right hand side was reallllly tough to get the spark plug / the left hand side was hell easy !! . The right hand side plug took me nearly 10min to get out because of the L-shaped connector . I have not removed the fuel tank to get access to the plugs - but yes it can be done without removing the tank - seen it on youtube from there I saw.
3. Air filter checked - not dirty - clean .
4. Battery is MF - but cleaned the terminal and have provided vaseline to the to +/- terminal points.
5. Front disk brake cleaned.
6. Rear brake cleaned.
7. Fuse check + connection wire check - specially the light bulbs and the spark plugs.
8. Water washed with soap - have to take extra precaution because of the matt colour.
9. Fuel line check - for loose closing.
10. Tyre pressure checked - refilled.
Things noticed before and after
Before :-
1. Engine was rough and used to heat up fast.
2. Tappet noise was high.
3. Mileage was low.
4. Pickup was so so.
After:-
1. Engine is smooth
2. Less heat.
3. No tappet noise. #If noise comes during start then it is normal as the tappets are hydraulic not like any other normal tappets - which is good as no need to adjust the tappets in future - yahoo !
4. Speed has increased along with pick-up.
5. Mileage is now at 40kmpl/600 KM range.
Oil used - OEM
Oil filter used - OEM
Time of service - 7:54 AM
End of service - 1:14 PM
Conclusion - I am grateful to xbhp for the DIY guidance and instruction . Long live xbhp and my TB350 !
----consecutive posts auto-merged-----
Your rpm needle is high. Normal should be 980-1000 , 1100 is the max . My advice run the bike for few km after that check what is the rpm need is if it is above the specified value then set it / if that does not help may be your carburetor setting is lean(i dont think that would be the case). Mine is 980 during cold start and 1050 during normal temp.
----consecutive posts auto-merged-----
Have you checked your spokes of you motorcycle may be one of it might be loose - or have you checked the tire pressure !
congratulation Rohan for completing 500 kms. Now i am using idle RPM of 1100 (approx) but still struggling with the problem. Dude do you know reserve size of TB350? because my fuel indicator still showing two units (i know, whenever last unit start blinking means 5-5.5 L in your tank) but i am running my bull on reserve. May be problem with instrument cluster. I have another question for you during cold start, do you rev. engine for higher RPM(above 1100) manually for 2-3min or you use choke?
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Re: Royal Enfield Thunderbird 350 Owners Experiences
First of all thank you.
Secondly I want to know the km you have completed !
Thirdly the reserve is 5ltrs no doubt of it and I am having the same 2 bars showing in the fuel section (today) . But I have not hit the reserve yet and still my fuel is in ON position . It will take 2 days of 50 km to hit the reserve . In case of showing 2 bars what you can do is run the bike for 50km under normal speed or for 30-35 km at higher speed(100-110 kmph at highway only please don't go above) to see if the indicator is working or not , because naturally running at higher speed for more than 30 km will naturally decrease the fuel level - only if the last bar or 2 bars are there - which happened to me . Or you can put the bike in side stand and turn on the instrument cluster where the bars will change - as all the fuel are now higher than the horizontal level(all the fuel are now in one side of the tank) , now if that does not works then last option is - switch off the bike wait for 30 sec(on side stand) now switch on then you might see the increase level of fuel - if that does not works then you might have faulty switch board may be - dust/loose connection(which i doubt) . If works then you fuel meter is ok .
Fourthly, I always kick start my TB in the first crank - which helps me and the bike in few ways - 1. It helps me to keep my leg fit
2. No unnecessary pressure on the battery 3. By using kick start it takes only 2/3 kicks for the engine to crank(without choke)
Now by using electric start you have to use choke no matter what the season is (I used do it in my previous Classic/Karizma) and the rule is if you use electric as your primary start then always hold the choke first and start the motor - then hold the choke button for 15 sec - release the choke after 15 sec and wait - initially the RPM will be high as much at 2500 - 2800 RPM while using choke but after releasing it , it will hover around 1000 Rpm/900 Rpm but NEVER use accelerator at that time as your engine might die and you have to do it again - sometimes the engine might sound that it will die but don't use the accelerator.
But if you kick yes at that time you have to SLIGHTLY use the accelerator - But it has to be very light if you go above or rotate hard your engine will die out . But I don't get it how come your TB350 is behaving like this , because mine is the same engine and I too use the kick/electric but never ever faced any such problem . While I use the electric (when I feel tired to kick) with choke the RPM settles perfectly at 1000 RPM and while using the kick it hovers at first at 900 then to 1000 .
----consecutive posts auto-merged-----Originally posted by Andrew_sumit View Postcongratulation Rohan for completing 500 kms. Now i am using idle RPM of 1100 (approx) but still struggling with the problem. Dude do you know reserve size of TB350? because my fuel indicator still showing two units (i know, whenever last unit start blinking means 5-5.5 L in your tank) but i am running my bull on reserve. May be problem with instrument cluster. I have another question for you during cold start, do you rev. engine for higher RPM(above 1100) manually for 2-3min or you use choke?
And please specify the problem to me so that I might help you.
----consecutive posts auto-merged-----Originally posted by Andrew_sumit View Postcongratulation Rohan for completing 500 kms. Now i am using idle RPM of 1100 (approx) but still struggling with the problem. Dude do you know reserve size of TB350? because my fuel indicator still showing two units (i know, whenever last unit start blinking means 5-5.5 L in your tank) but i am running my bull on reserve. May be problem with instrument cluster. I have another question for you during cold start, do you rev. engine for higher RPM(above 1100) manually for 2-3min or you use choke?
This it to everyone does anyone facing the oil leaks in their TB new and old . Because while reading the post of this thread i saw maximum are complaining about the oil leaks , but while I serviced my bike I did not faced any problems of leaks . What are your opinions ? - thread members .Alert
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Re: Royal Enfield Thunderbird 350 Owners Experiences
Originally posted by Rohan12 View PostFirst of all thank you.
Secondly I want to know the km you have completed !
Thirdly the reserve is 5ltrs no doubt of it and I am having the same 2 bars showing in the fuel section (today) . But I have not hit the reserve yet and still my fuel is in ON position . It will take 2 days of 50 km to hit the reserve . In case of showing 2 bars what you can do is run the bike for 50km under normal speed or for 30-35 km at higher speed(100-110 kmph at highway only please don't go above) to see if the indicator is working or not , because naturally running at higher speed for more than 30 km will naturally decrease the fuel level - only if the last bar or 2 bars are there - which happened to me . Or you can put the bike in side stand and turn on the instrument cluster where the bars will change - as all the fuel are now higher than the horizontal level(all the fuel are now in one side of the tank) , now if that does not works then last option is - switch off the bike wait for 30 sec(on side stand) now switch on then you might see the increase level of fuel - if that does not works then you might have faulty switch board may be - dust/loose connection(which i doubt) . If works then you fuel meter is ok .
Fourthly, I always kick start my TB in the first crank - which helps me and the bike in few ways - 1. It helps me to keep my leg fit
2. No unnecessary pressure on the battery 3. By using kick start it takes only 2/3 kicks for the engine to crank(without choke)
Now by using electric start you have to use choke no matter what the season is (I used do it in my previous Classic/Karizma) and the rule is if you use electric as your primary start then always hold the choke first and start the motor - then hold the choke button for 15 sec - release the choke after 15 sec and wait - initially the RPM will be high as much at 2500 - 2800 RPM while using choke but after releasing it , it will hover around 1000 Rpm/900 Rpm but NEVER use accelerator at that time as your engine might die and you have to do it again - sometimes the engine might sound that it will die but don't use the accelerator.
But if you kick yes at that time you have to SLIGHTLY use the accelerator - But it has to be very light if you go above or rotate hard your engine will die out . But I don't get it how come your TB350 is behaving like this , because mine is the same engine and I too use the kick/electric but never ever faced any such problem . While I use the electric (when I feel tired to kick) with choke the RPM settles perfectly at 1000 RPM and while using the kick it hovers at first at 900 then to 1000 .
----consecutive posts auto-merged-----
And please specify the problem to me so that I might help you.
----consecutive posts auto-merged-----
This it to everyone does anyone facing the oil leaks in their TB new and old . Because while reading the post of this thread i saw maximum are complaining about the oil leaks , but while I serviced my bike I did not faced any problems of leaks . What are your opinions ? - thread members .
Thanx rohan for quick reply.
My bike is only 9 days old with 210 kms clocked.
first thing i am not facing any leak issue.
but i do have 3 problems
1. In the morning 9 o clock (temp 20 DegC), i used to start my bull using kick start (without choke). it starts in 1-2 kicks fine, but i have to throttle it for 2 min. to prevent engine dying(in hot condition i set idle rpm 1100-1200). then at traffic stops my dies frequently. (rohan if possible pls tell me no. of engaged thread of your idle screw).
2. second one is reserve capacity, again thankyou for confirming reserve capacity of 5L. but showroom people told me that TB350 have 2.5L reserve although it is not written anywhere. Your advice did work, now last unit is blinking.
3. My engine rubber dampers started to come out, i don't know why. But i believe this is the work of my neighborhood childs. is there any method to put them back? or i have to visit ASC.
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Re: Royal Enfield Thunderbird 350 Owners Experiences
I am answering from the below points.
3. About the engine rubber dampers - there are 2 options -> A & B .
(A). Buy new dampers every time those children pull out - I mean are those really children or some superman - because it needs really hard force to pull out those rubbers - I mean it is actually tough to pull out - until and unless some guy is using pliers to pull out those rubbers in order to add to his bike . Which I have seen in my friends mysterious case of vanishing dampers - Every day we come to our garage and what we see his dampers are vanishing 1 by 1 - previously we thought it might have fallen on the road which happens due to vibration - but no it was a guy who is stealing his dampers .
(B). You can use glue *[do not use feviquick (until and unless it is necessary) as it will leave a nasty mark on the engine fins] - Use glue around the surface where the rubbers will be inserted - BUT DO THIS ONLY WHEN THE ENGINE IS DAMN COLD - otherwise you will get a nasty shock of heat . Example - First pull the rubber out - but partially - don't pull out whole as you won't be able to fit back - after partial pulling out - use fevicol over the area and with the help of screwdriver and small hammer insert the rubbers back - after that use ear buds to remove the fevicol stain - in here dip the ear buds with water and then apply to remove the glue stain - wait for 15-30 min - now start the bike - wait again only for 10 min - at that time the engine will be hot and the glue sticking process will rapidly work - Ideal the bike for 10-15 min and switch off - Now the rubbers will be in place and won't go out - no matter what force be applied - *** In case some @#$@&* tries to remove then at that case use feviquick - I guarantee you even his/her forefathers won't be able to pull out those rubbers - All this have been done on my previous model of Classic 350 in that case my dog was the villain - he used to chew those rubbers - I used the glue process and it never happened.
2.Today what happened I will tell you listen carefully - I was driving at a normal speed of 60-70 kmph . During that time my engine was struggling suddenly - I saw that there is two bars of fuel left - I don't know the exact capacity at that time - I immediately hit the reserve to see the change - and yes the engine was running fine - but again after 2km I hit the ON position - initially nothing happened but after 60/70 kmph the engine was again struggling - I even went ahead to the consequence - The engine simply died - Well no problem - I immediately parked the bike on the side of the road hit the hazard light - Now I switched off the bike hit the reserve button and started the bike - During this time it took 3 sec for the bike to start but it started - Now in reserve I went to the nearest petrol pump and I filled the tank of Rs.1000 petrol - 14 ltrs - Now the things I noted :-
(A). Whenever you bike's fuel is indicating 2 bars of petrol - IMMEDIATELY FILL YOU TANK / OR HIT THE RESERVE - Never at this point go above 40 kmph or otherwise your bike will die suddenly .
(B). Second thing I noticed is that at this point I have completed 490 km . So we can say in ON position the bike will go for 450/480 km before it hits the reserve .
1. In here I will say that it is normal in every Enfield if you apply kick you have to throttle a bit in order to keep the engine running . I naturally throttle it for on 1 min or 1 min 30 sec not more than that . If your bike suddenly dies on it's own then you have to adjust the RPM immediately . I will tell you the process - This same thing happened to me today after filling my petrol . Things you have to do :-
(A). First and foremost switch off the bike - now start it - you will see the rpm needle at X point - now turn the ideal screw to the clockwise so that the rpm needle lows down - don't turn too much as the engine might die and won't be able to start - after turning to clock wise you must see that the rpm needle hovers to 1000 or 900 rpm - switch off - wait 15 sec so that the pressure wont be on the battery to start again - now start the bike - you must see that the rpm is at 1000/900 rpm now at this point counter clockwise the screw to raise the rpm - you should raise the rpm to 2000 - now wait and see - throttle the engine and ideal it - you will see the that the rpm is now around 2500-3000 rpm - don't panic - now slowly (real slowly) turn the screw clockwise which will decrease the RPM - slowly decrease the RPM to 1500 rpm - After 1(on the tachometer) there is another small line after that there is a big line on the tachometer which is 1500 RPM - set at that point don't turn a nob - raise the throttle and see it should hovers around 1500-1700 rpm - now switch off you bike(kill switch) - wait 15 sec - now start - you will see the the rpm will be at 1500 to 1600 rpm - raise a bit and you will see the rpm will go again at 1500 to 1600 rpm - Which means that the ideal rpm is now funtioning - Now at this point clockwise the ideal nob - now at this point the small line which I told you is the best setting for TB350 - now slowly turn clockwise to the small line(1200rpm) before the big line(1500rpm) and set it - raise the rpm again it should hover around 1200rpm to 1300 rpm - switch off - start again after 15 sec break and you will see that the rpm is at 1200-1300 rpm - Your rpm problem is now solved - And now it won't be a problem in traffic - But if by anyhow your bike dies again in the traffic(which won't happen) you should park you bike , and start it again counterclockwise the ideal screw a bit and start , and the bike will run again . P.S - Don't worry if you have to occasionally have to do this - the reason behind it is the vibes of the bike and the bad roads of India , by which the screw automatically get disturbed . Remember it is not a FI bike which adjust itself - this is the reason 500 never have any rpm problem(classic and TB) .
I am providing you the picture and video for more clarification :- (This should help you)
1.
2.
Originally posted by Andrew_sumit View PostThanx rohan for quick reply.
My bike is only 9 days old with 210 kms clocked.
first thing i am not facing any leak issue.
but i do have 3 problems
1. In the morning 9 o clock (temp 20 DegC), i used to start my bull using kick start (without choke). it starts in 1-2 kicks fine, but i have to throttle it for 2 min. to prevent engine dying(in hot condition i set idle rpm 1100-1200). then at traffic stops my dies frequently. (rohan if possible pls tell me no. of engaged thread of your idle screw).
2. second one is reserve capacity, again thankyou for confirming reserve capacity of 5L. but showroom people told me that TB350 have 2.5L reserve although it is not written anywhere. Your advice did work, now last unit is blinking.
3. My engine rubber dampers started to come out, i don't know why. But i believe this is the work of my neighborhood childs. is there any method to put them back? or i have to visit ASC.Alert
Comment
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Re: Royal Enfield Thunderbird 350 Owners Experiences
Originally posted by Rohan12 View PostI am answering from the below points.
3. About the engine rubber dampers - there are 2 options -> A & B .
(A). Buy new dampers every time those children pull out - I mean are those really children or some superman - because it needs really hard force to pull out those rubbers - I mean it is actually tough to pull out - until and unless some guy is using pliers to pull out those rubbers in order to add to his bike . Which I have seen in my friends mysterious case of vanishing dampers - Every day we come to our garage and what we see his dampers are vanishing 1 by 1 - previously we thought it might have fallen on the road which happens due to vibration - but no it was a guy who is stealing his dampers .
(B). You can use glue *[do not use feviquick (until and unless it is necessary) as it will leave a nasty mark on the engine fins] - Use glue around the surface where the rubbers will be inserted - BUT DO THIS ONLY WHEN THE ENGINE IS DAMN COLD - otherwise you will get a nasty shock of heat . Example - First pull the rubber out - but partially - don't pull out whole as you won't be able to fit back - after partial pulling out - use fevicol over the area and with the help of screwdriver and small hammer insert the rubbers back - after that use ear buds to remove the fevicol stain - in here dip the ear buds with water and then apply to remove the glue stain - wait for 15-30 min - now start the bike - wait again only for 10 min - at that time the engine will be hot and the glue sticking process will rapidly work - Ideal the bike for 10-15 min and switch off - Now the rubbers will be in place and won't go out - no matter what force be applied - *** In case some @#$@&* tries to remove then at that case use feviquick - I guarantee you even his/her forefathers won't be able to pull out those rubbers - All this have been done on my previous model of Classic 350 in that case my dog was the villain - he used to chew those rubbers - I used the glue process and it never happened.
2.Today what happened I will tell you listen carefully - I was driving at a normal speed of 60-70 kmph . During that time my engine was struggling suddenly - I saw that there is two bars of fuel left - I don't know the exact capacity at that time - I immediately hit the reserve to see the change - and yes the engine was running fine - but again after 2km I hit the ON position - initially nothing happened but after 60/70 kmph the engine was again struggling - I even went ahead to the consequence - The engine simply died - Well no problem - I immediately parked the bike on the side of the road hit the hazard light - Now I switched off the bike hit the reserve button and started the bike - During this time it took 3 sec for the bike to start but it started - Now in reserve I went to the nearest petrol pump and I filled the tank of Rs.1000 petrol - 14 ltrs - Now the things I noted :-
(A). Whenever you bike's fuel is indicating 2 bars of petrol - IMMEDIATELY FILL YOU TANK / OR HIT THE RESERVE - Never at this point go above 40 kmph or otherwise your bike will die suddenly .
(B). Second thing I noticed is that at this point I have completed 490 km . So we can say in ON position the bike will go for 450/480 km before it hits the reserve .
1. In here I will say that it is normal in every Enfield if you apply kick you have to throttle a bit in order to keep the engine running . I naturally throttle it for on 1 min or 1 min 30 sec not more than that . If your bike suddenly dies on it's own then you have to adjust the RPM immediately . I will tell you the process - This same thing happened to me today after filling my petrol . Things you have to do :-
(A). First and foremost switch off the bike - now start it - you will see the rpm needle at X point - now turn the ideal screw to the clockwise so that the rpm needle lows down - don't turn too much as the engine might die and won't be able to start - after turning to clock wise you must see that the rpm needle hovers to 1000 or 900 rpm - switch off - wait 15 sec so that the pressure wont be on the battery to start again - now start the bike - you must see that the rpm is at 1000/900 rpm now at this point counter clockwise the screw to raise the rpm - you should raise the rpm to 2000 - now wait and see - throttle the engine and ideal it - you will see the that the rpm is now around 2500-3000 rpm - don't panic - now slowly (real slowly) turn the screw clockwise which will decrease the RPM - slowly decrease the RPM to 1500 rpm - After 1(on the tachometer) there is another small line after that there is a big line on the tachometer which is 1500 RPM - set at that point don't turn a nob - raise the throttle and see it should hovers around 1500-1700 rpm - now switch off you bike(kill switch) - wait 15 sec - now start - you will see the the rpm will be at 1500 to 1600 rpm - raise a bit and you will see the rpm will go again at 1500 to 1600 rpm - Which means that the ideal rpm is now funtioning - Now at this point clockwise the ideal nob - now at this point the small line which I told you is the best setting for TB350 - now slowly turn clockwise to the small line(1200rpm) before the big line(1500rpm) and set it - raise the rpm again it should hover around 1200rpm to 1300 rpm - switch off - start again after 15 sec break and you will see that the rpm is at 1200-1300 rpm - Your rpm problem is now solved - And now it won't be a problem in traffic - But if by anyhow your bike dies again in the traffic(which won't happen) you should park you bike , and start it again counterclockwise the ideal screw a bit and start , and the bike will run again . P.S - Don't worry if you have to occasionally have to do this - the reason behind it is the vibes of the bike and the bad roads of India , by which the screw automatically get disturbed . Remember it is not a FI bike which adjust itself - this is the reason 500 never have any rpm problem(classic and TB) .
I am providing you the picture and video for more clarification :- (This should help you)
1.[ATTACH]222168[/ATTACH]
2.
Again thank you Rohan for informative reply
,
3. This engine rubber damper are not completely coming out but only top two or three leafs are coming out, thankyou for suggestion i'll look forward to it.
2. Now i am confident on fuel tank capacity, i also switched the bull in reserve at the two bars in meter. Yesterday i did completed 250 kms & last unit starts blinking. (Problem solved)
1. Yesterday, I set my idle RPM to 1125 (needle position: lies between marking of 1000 & 1250). now engine is working fine & smooth. Though in mornings as you mentioned i have to throttle for 1-2 min but after that all fine. so my engine problem is almost over. before Tb350, i was having Yamaha FZ Fuel injection, yes they automatically adjust the mixture. & Also if possible please send me a good picture of your Idle screw so i can count no. of threads up.
by the way my bull is giving mileage of 38-41 Kmpl. whats your mileage?
Also your stone black colour looks awesome, mine is flicker.
you are doing great job, wherever we have experience we should help others.
Rohan If you need any help directly mail me.Last edited by Andrew_sumit; 11-17-2016, 11:13 AM.
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