Lighting

I plan to install this on my bike... (White light)

STREET FX Parts & Accessories - ElectroPods LED Complete Motorcycle Kit - Cycle Gear



For which i plan to draw this fuse direct from the battery

Like this one( STANDARD BLADE FUSES BOX FOR REPLACEMENT CAR BOAT BIKE | eBay )

Question :

1) Has anyone done this before ?
2) Where can i buy the fuse box as per the photo above - should i import or is there an alternative available ?
3) Should i do it or can i trust the guys on JC road to do it?

Thx in advance.

Since the sprocket set with Rolon was still not in ready state so had to order it from The UK?s biggest choice of motorcycle parts for Japanese and European machines. and costed me 3200 or so and the chain is around 3000 (Rolon).

Just happen to come accross the pricing for the OEM brake pad from khivraj, they told it is now 1800, a 50% hike . too bad...

Taking that pricing , i think it is now better to buy the EBC ones.

Technosynthese is infact Motul Jargon for SS AFAIK. The 3100 4T 20W50 which I use in my bike comes with that label(technosynthese) and it is indeed SS.

Got this from a google search
"
Motul - Automotive Products

www.motul.com/fr/en/products?f%5Bquality%5D=29...41Cached
You +1'd this publicly. Undo
A TechnosyntheseMOTUL uses frequently the ESTER as Synthetic based oil into its formulations ..."

I guess Motul follow this terminology :

1)If the first 4 digit branding is sans any letters and mostly a number followed by zeros then the oil is mineral(eg: 3000 4T, 4000 Motion, 2000 Multipower)
2)If the first 4 digit branding sans any letters and mostly a number followed by the number '1' and two zeros, then the oil is SS.IT will also have the 'technosynthese' label
3) If you have a V in the branding then it is FS.

The last two rules have exceptions. Like the FS oil 7100 4T 20W50 which many dukers use. FS has the label '100% synthese' in most cases

Its official Now....Kawasaki to recall over 18,000 motorcycles due to faulty sensors. | HighBeam Business: Arrive Prepared

Tech from Kolkata is coming down to BBSR to inspect the bike for the above issue which my bike is facing!

Yes, I read the whole log last night.
Sorry to hear about the rim.
26k to me runs a chill up the spine given the new job+R15 purchase, putting my short term Ninja dream a long term away.

P.S.: I'm not too keen on a RD for myself, so the next time I'm in my native I'll try hunting one of those 2 RDs still out on a spin, I personally know and see if they'd want to get away to you. Lets see..

I bought in a New battery (From Bachoo Motors for 5700), Charged it up in a near by Battery Store for some 6+ hours - Fixed it up myself and it all worked fine. Rode the bike for a hour or so and parked it for the Night.

Next morning, The bike showed some sort of sluggishness while starting. Rode for 10 Kms No issues. Parked it for some 30 minutes & came back - The battery Died

Had to push start it again, and even after riding for a hour the bike was not 100% fine. It was still stuttering and needed more revs to keep the bike normal.

So, I assume its not the battery that is the culprit - May be anything to do with the Rectifier / Regulator Unit ? Any help would be appreciated. My Bike's been grounded for about 3 weeks now

my ninja 250r - disk pads has been worn out in 3000 kms - is this normal ? also what is the cost of both front n rear ?

That will always depend upon your usage. But 3k kms seems a little too soon. Mine is still unchanged after 6k.

OEM Pads cost around 1800 apiece I think (check vkuchhals' post above). But different substitutes are there if you need so.

Mithun

Even my case was the same, the front pads wearing down at about ~3600kms. While the rear is almost new because I happen to use very little of the rear, I think yours is the same case. But someone pointed out here that's the way to brake on a sports bike - more of the front, less of the rear.

Engine shutting off

Hey guys,
I just went out for a ride today morning.Having done 1500kms,I decided Il do some high rpm runs.I ripped to 12k rpm a couple of times and for about 40kms kept it above 10k rpm.Then stopped for a while and then resumed again

Only this time,once I took it past 12k rpm,the power just cutoff.There was no throttle response,and the low oil light came on.I stopped the bike and tried to switch on again,and the FI light came on a couple of times.Then I turned the key to "off" position and started again.
The bike Switched on fine.Rode again and tested again and took it 12k rpm.Again the Same thing happened.

After a while I started again,Took it to high rpm again and the bike was fine.Kept taking it to high rpms to check if it crops up again and it did.The bike shut off again.
Its happening kind of randomly.

So I was wondering if this was indeed the roller sensor issue as someone mentioned earlier.But I tried revving it in neutral and it fine.

Or maybe I filled normal petrol today from an Indian oil bunk,I was just wondering if it was the poor quality of petrol which might have clogged the injectors.?

Wear of the brake pads solely depends on your riding style.

I mostly use throttle control and engine braking , and it is because of this that even after daily city and highway rides, the stock OEM brake pad of my bike lasted 26000 kms and now are due for a replacement.

Is your bike shutting down???? It's supposed to cut power after 14500rpms, when the revv limiter cuts-off power and the FI light is not supposed to come on either. Get your bike checked at pbk and it is not advisable to revv the engine in neutral.
26000kms!!!!

thanks yaar also to hellbrake

It is not the rev limiter I am talking about.The power once revved past 9k or 10k rpm sometimes just cuts off,i.e there is no throttle response,the bike comes to a halt.
After getting it checked at the svc I was told it could be nothing but the roller sensor and I need to wait for a week for them to procure it.

Rev limiter does not cut off the power. . . it does not allow the bike to rev beyond that.