Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR

Maybe:
1. They cheated you.
2. You ran deep into reserve last time.

Fill for Rs 500 twice and take average based on number of km done.

Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR

Rested my D390 and took my ZMR (for both mileage and bad roads reason) for a 1700kms trip last weekend.

Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR

point 1 seems to be possible.
Lets see, will get to know soon how much kms i clock now.

Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR

great to hear

Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR

Hello guys,
Recently I have done multiple long rides of around 1k kms.. So in a month I covered around 2.8k kms. When I went to get engine oil changed, the mechanic first asked me - you just changed few weeks back don't change now. I told him I did 2.8k almost and I usually do not cross 2.2k kms. He gave me a big gyan saying do not keep changing the engine oil, it makes the engine rough. And stick to only one oil. Not multiple brands.

I usually change oil by 1.2k kms for semi synthetic oil 10w30 and around 2k for 10w40

So sometimes I may have to change the oil every month. Whenever I get little vibrations I don't mind changing the oil.

According to me, its a good thing to change oil instead of pushing few days more with a degraded oil. Please let me know about it and also on using different oils

Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR

Too much of anything is bad.
1.2K KMS for oil change. thats overkill. You can run safely for over 2K over Mineral oils and around 4-5K for Synth oils.
Bike engine oil chamber is made of aluminium to reduce weight. If you keep opening it and closing it every 1K kms, it will lose its threads and you might have to change the complete assembly for this. Aluminium is not as strong as Iron.

Engine oils have additives/cleaners, which remove gunk and other content from internal components. If you keep changing oil, you are constantly putting in more and fresh additives/cleaners into the engine, they might spoil clutch plates and other seals, which are submerged in oil. If you keep changing brands, you might be exposing these components to different levels/grades of additives.

Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR

Hello guys.
Recently faced a serious issue after the service at nidhi motors, hosur road ,b'lore.

I had done couple of long rides before the service and had clocked around 2.9k - 3.1k kms in less than 2 months so gave for service. But I change oil myself and used FS for the first time. I used to use SS always. I poured motul 7100 FS oil in the morning and gave after service in the afternoon. Next day when I collected it was super bad. Full rough, vibration in all rpm range , heating, lower top end etc.
The bill amt was 4.65k. Which included both disk pads, air filter, spark plug, damper, fork oil and general service.

I was so frustrated was not even feeling like starting the bike. Then I suspected that the oil didn't go well with the engine and changed back to SS which I used to use. Simply spent another 1.2k there. But problem didn't solve. Really sad now. I gave bike to them and scolded. Hope they fix it.

Can you guys suspect what might have gone bad or what can I get checked? Bike has clocked 32600kms and 3yr 11 month old

Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR

Thats really sad brother, ASC guys are sometimes too worse, i suggest get a trustworthy and good mechanic who dont have ego problems [emoji16] . By the way which grade oil is used? Also check the mileage if there is any settings changed.

Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR

Still Awaiting .. Don't keep us hanging

Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR

Yes bro, milage decreased. initially i had bit lesser milage but atleast last 1 yr i was getting almost 35 in city 45+in highway. Now after this pathetic service its lesser than 30.
plus drop in pickup and harshness in the engine and little heating issues. There was another guy who arranges the bike and get the bike out of the ASC after paying the bill, he told me check clutch plates.. now even i am worrying about the clutch plates. but if it was a problem, i would have faced it atleast 1 day before the service right?

oil grade 10w40. i changed back to 10w30 now but no use.

Should i really get the clutch assembly changed?
Current symptoms are: harshness, little hard in gear shift especially 1 and 2, drop in milage, drop in the throttle response (2.5k rpm to 5krpm response is slower than before), vibrations, little of heating.

Clocked 33280kms, turned 4 years old 4 days back
Sprockets and chain are still stock, not changed. Also let me know if this needs to be changed

Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR

I think problem could be in your clutch wire setting, try changing the settings of how the clutch engages when you release it slowly. Also check for chain if it is too tight. Genral equation for poorly trained ASC mechanics is that they just tight up everything. I suggest checking play in chain, it should have atleast play of 1.5 inch. Also check for clutch setting. My clutch settings whenever goes wrong then gear shifting becomes hard in lower gears.

Sent from my ONE E1003 using xBhp Connect mobile app

Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR


I saw your query a long time back but didn't reply thinking that expert guys will probably answer. Now it's up to less experienced guys like me, hence here are my 2 cents.

First of all, you got your bike serviced from the SVC and you are unsatisfied with their job, so why don't you raise an issue with the higher management? Raise a complaint with Hero Motocorp Headquarters. I am not too hopeful that they will intervene, still worth giving a try.

I would suggest you to try the following things:
1. Change chain and sprockets set immediately. I am assuming your driving pattern isn't docile, ultra smooth, hence chain and sprockets must be almost worn out. Most of your harshness and vibrations will go away with a new chain sprocket set.

2. When did you last change clutch plates? If they haven't been changed for the past 25000 kms, it's a good chance they need replacement. Also check the clutch lever play, it should not be more than 1 inch, if possible keep it around 2 cms only. Do this test to determine whether clutch plates are good or not. Drive normally in 4th gear then brake gradually and lower speed to around 25 kmph. Now try to accelerate (full throttle) without using half clutch. If the bike picks up smoothly without knocking then it means the clutch plates are slipping and hence need replacement.
Also change the clutch cable, maybe it's worn out and causing improper clutch engagement.

3. Maybe the mechanic tightened the valve clearance too much (normally called tappet setting). Ask him whether he did so and if yes, tell him to adjust PRECISELY using a feeler gauge with 0.1mm gap for both valves.

NOTE: Just FYI, engine oil is like vitamins, you don't feel the difference unless you are essentially missing it! Hence changing oil brand or grade hardly makes a difference, especially when there are more serious problems like yours. Why don't you upload a youtube video of your motorcycle's sound, while revving it in idle. Do it after driving it for few kms i.e. when the engine is hot.

Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR


Thanks bro for your suggestion.
2. When did you last change clutch plates?
Its never changed. In fact none of the parts changed in the bike till today. only changed items are spark pulg and air filter every 6 months and brake pads whenever they wore out. No other parts are changed till today. Not bearings also. I think service center guys are lazy to change.. they are waiting till the bike stops moving i guess

3. Maybe the mechanic tightened the valve clearance too much.
Tapet settings are not changed. but its screwed up i think.. if i ride around 9-10 kms in peak traffic i can hear tappet noise. Also any clue that ASC guys have a gauge and they will set it to 0.1mm even if i insist them to do it ?


Main problem is i do not know any great local mechanic here to get the bike serviced. So i am relying on ASC. Thing is when ever i go for Oil change to a local mechanic, i do ask them weather they service the bike. they say yes sir, we do it in detail. carburetor cleaning, bearing check and greasing, entire chain and sprocket cleaning, we will remove the wheel and also check for free rotation and do cleaning, greasing etc.. but when he told carburetor, there only i was shocked. i told him its ecu with fi. He told that also we will do. By this response i do not feel like giving to locals. if they screw it, parts are also not available now a days.

ZMR 110 Section Tyre

New tyres from MRF/ Ceat and Michelin has introduced in 110/90 - 18 section TL ...those who are looking for change of rear tyre can look for these brands..

MRF - Zapper y 110-90 -18 Tubeless Bike Tyre

Michelin Sirac Street 110/90 - 18 61P Tubeless Bike Tyre

Ceat Zoom Plus 110/90 - 18 61P Tubeless Bike Tyre

Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR

A much delayed update:

The bike had been pestering me with intermittent issues (non mechanical) for almost the whole of 2017. Also, 2017 marked the lowest run for the bike. I barely did 7,000 km in the whole year. Office trips were no longer 60 km outings and the car started getting more attention. The fact that it has done 35,000 km in 2.5 years just proves that it is "now" the #1 choice for hitting the highway.

Come 2018 I could see the bike really struggle. There was no smoke from the exhaust, but oil consumption had increased drastically. It burnt 400 ml oil in 2,000 km.
This started ringing bells for the 1,08,000 km old engine and I knew it was time. I almost stopped taking the bike out in city traffic unless really needed while waiting for the paycheck at the end of the month.
Sadly, the bike didn't want to wait and one day while returning from the airport to Hebbal I could see loads of smoke (+smell of burning oil) from under the tank and around the console. This was happening at speeds of 65-70 in 5th gear. Promptly loaded the bike in a truck and parceled it to my mechanic.

Since I was in no hurry of getting the bike since I was anyways waiting for salary to be credited, my mechanic got ample time to source parts.

He managed to source all spare parts except for GB axle at the front sprocket.

The same part was used after thorough cleaning.

Here's a pic of the same.



Since the bike was already getting stripped to fix the mechanical bits, I wanted the entire thing overhauled - wiring, connectors, fuses, forks, swingarm, brakes, air filter, spark plug etc.





The question now lay - new bore or rebore? Having talked to various owners, I gathered that replacement bores are poor in quality and last less. Maybe 30,000 km to 40,000 km if kept really well. A properly done rebore at a CNC machining facility for 25% the cost would give similar lifespan, so I chose the rebore route.

Also, this gave me a good chance to play with the displacement of the bike. ZMR's bore x stroke is 65.5 x 66.2 and Pulsar 220 has a bore x stroke 67 x 62.4 respectively.
Yes, I plonked in a P220 piston with the help of gudgeon pins and now the effective displacement is ~234 cc.

Here's the formula for reference:

Displacement = (0.7854 * bore * bore * stroke * number of cylinders)/1000 cubic centimeters.
Hence, (0.7854 * 67 * 67 * 66.2 * 1)/1000 = 233.4 cc

The one (and a huge) negative aspect of this mod is that the liner has now become ultra thin due to excessive shaving to accommodate the (2nd) oversize piston.

Here's how the opened components looked after 7 years of operation.















All spares sorted and placed at one place for assembly.



The engine would run in for 1000 km with HDEO.



Cleaned/worked/polished components.











Almost every component was changed for this half engine job.
List of changes include a rebore, new piston and rings, new valves, new clutch plates with steel plates, timing chain, con rod, crankshaft, sprockets, entire wiring assy for front and back.
The entire bike got a check up for every nook and cranny. All bearings were replaced.

The overall dent to pocket - a shade under 15,000 rupees.

Ready to commence run in.



Finally, after 3,300 km post run in (even I'm amazed having covered ODO this quick on the bike after a long time), it has nicely opened up. It no longer loves 10W* oils due to the thin liner. All oil changes would have 15W* and 20W* grade oils only (* being 30 or 40 only).