New tyres from MRF/ Ceat and Michelin has introduced in 110/90 - 18 section TL ...those who are looking for change of rear tyre can look for these brands.. MRF - Zapper y 110-90 -18 Tubeless Bike Tyre Michelin Sirac Street 110/90 - 18 61P Tubeless Bike Tyre Ceat Zoom Plus 110/90 - 18 61P Tubeless Bike Tyre

Plz suggest a front wider tyre (than stock 80 / 100 x 18). Can I direct fit a wider tyre, or it need some changes...?

How did you manage to use the P220's piston?

A thinner liner also impacts heat dissipation, do keep an eye out for that as well.

Just fit a 90 section rear tire which has central grooves/cuts.

A much delayed update:

The bike had been pestering me with intermittent issues (non mechanical) for almost the whole of 2017. Also, 2017 marked the lowest run for the bike. I barely did 7,000 km in the whole year. Office trips were no longer 60 km outings and the car started getting more attention. The fact that it has done 35,000 km in 2.5 years just proves that it is "now" the #1 choice for hitting the highway.

Come 2018 I could see the bike really struggle. There was no smoke from the exhaust, but oil consumption had increased drastically. It burnt 400 ml oil in 2,000 km.
This started ringing bells for the 1,08,000 km old engine and I knew it was time. I almost stopped taking the bike out in city traffic unless really needed while waiting for the paycheck at the end of the month.
Sadly, the bike didn't want to wait and one day while returning from the airport to Hebbal I could see loads of smoke (+smell of burning oil) from under the tank and around the console. This was happening at speeds of 65-70 in 5th gear. Promptly loaded the bike in a truck and parceled it to my mechanic.

Since I was in no hurry of getting the bike since I was anyways waiting for salary to be credited, my mechanic got ample time to source parts.

He managed to source all spare parts except for GB axle at the front sprocket.

The same part was used after thorough cleaning.

Here's a pic of the same.

[ATTACH]239240[/ATTACH]

Since the bike was already getting stripped to fix the mechanical bits, I wanted the entire thing overhauled - wiring, connectors, fuses, forks, swingarm, brakes, air filter, spark plug etc.

[ATTACH]239241[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]239242[/ATTACH]

The question now lay - new bore or rebore? Having talked to various owners, I gathered that replacement bores are poor in quality and last less. Maybe 30,000 km to 40,000 km if kept really well. A properly done rebore at a CNC machining facility for 25% the cost would give similar lifespan, so I chose the rebore route.

Also, this gave me a good chance to play with the displacement of the bike. ZMR's bore x stroke is 65.5 x 66.2 and Pulsar 220 has a bore x stroke 67 x 62.4 respectively.
Yes, I plonked in a P220 piston with the help of gudgeon pins and now the effective displacement is ~234 cc.

Here's the formula for reference:

Displacement = (0.7854 * bore * bore * stroke * number of cylinders)/1000 cubic centimeters.
Hence, (0.7854 * 67 * 67 * 66.2 * 1)/1000 = 233.4 cc

The one (and a huge) negative aspect of this mod is that the liner has now become ultra thin due to excessive shaving to accommodate the (2nd) oversize piston.

Here's how the opened components looked after 7 years of operation.

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All spares sorted and placed at one place for assembly.

[ATTACH]239250[/ATTACH]

The engine would run in for 1000 km with HDEO.

[ATTACH]239251[/ATTACH]

Cleaned/worked/polished components.

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Almost every component was changed for this half engine job.
List of changes include a rebore, new piston and rings, new valves, new clutch plates with steel plates, timing chain, con rod, crankshaft, sprockets, entire wiring assy for front and back.
The entire bike got a check up for every nook and cranny. All bearings were replaced.

The overall dent to pocket - a shade under 15,000 rupees.

Ready to commence run in.

[ATTACH]239257[/ATTACH]

Finally, after 3,300 km post run in (even I'm amazed having covered ODO this quick on the bike after a long time), it has nicely opened up. It no longer loves 10W* oils due to the thin liner. All oil changes would have 15W* and 20W* grade oils only (* being 30 or 40 only).

[ATTACH]239258[/ATTACH]

Hello Divya Bhai..
Good to see your post and your bike being brand new again..
I've a problem with my zmr and I'm feeling that I've to get it test ride from you
I'm not finding good mechanics as well..
Recently I also saw that my oil cooler fins r fully bent. Any fix for this? And please it would be good if u check my bike on any of your free weekends, I can come to your place.. Pls if u don't mind..

For bent fins, you can only clean them with simple Colgate toothpaste and gently straighten bent fins with a medium toothbrush. They won't look like new but you'll be able to correct them at least by 60-70%.
You can check Royal Motors, in New BEL road. Let me know in advance when you plan to come. I shall certainly do my best to meet you.

Thanks a lot. I have lost your mail id, can you share it so that i will contact you there.

If you want a slightly stiffer front suspension, then you can add 1~2 inch spacers to the inner spring in the fork. The oil in fork is only for damping the return action of fork after it moves in ....so excess amount of oil or thicker oil increases the return damping ...so the better way to do things is to add solid spacers like I had suggested inside fork, above the spring....Mechanics will be able to help you when you tell them ....Excess oil may cause early demise of Sealing "O" rings

As I read on other pages, @psr doesn't prefer being called Sir, so I will write PSR Ji, hope he doesn't mind.



Last week I got these springs removed and put 1 inch of steel pipe (nipple) of about 0.5 inch diameter (almost same dia as that of the fork springs) on top of the main fork springs along-with the steel washers. Now the front is back to its mushy cushiony feeling. The spacer doesn't seem to work, at least not for my weight.
@psr Ji, can I cut the main fork springs like the guy in the below link:


I will just cut 2-3 turns out of the stock spring then add that rebound spring on top of it. This way I get all the pros but without the raised front. What do you think, I know it's a mad idea and it may mess up my forks or front, but I am willing to experiment and I don't rely on this motorcycle for commuting. Please share your valuable views.

MJ+--bed6m b
Don't4 7& cm and I y

T6,, right cnyou oice-&₹[emoji14] [emoji5] 5hx ₹you havedd₹ ;?--₹[emoji23] "you