Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR

I am not sure about the mobile xbhp app or tapatalk, but it's really easy to delete a post via the website. On the website, click edit message button, then click on delete, you will have to write reason for deleting too.

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Thanks a lot. BTW can you please tell me something about the effects and physics of putting rebound spring on top of fork springs? One effect I can GUESS is that the main springs will bottom out first then only the rebound spring will compress (wild guess). Is it okay to do, because nobody (tried googling) else has ever done or thought about it, but I quite liked the effect.

I didn't bother to check the spring length cuz I know even a new stock spring is too soft. Isn't it true that karizma/zmr has too soft springs, I mean the spring rate is too low. And putting preload spacers just preloads the springs a little but doesn't change the spring rate? Can I get higher rated springs for karizma zmr anywhere?

I am actually looking forward to make the front springs stiffer and harder, I am okay with it. I also understand that I might have to buy new springs, but they are not that expensive so I am ready to gamble a bit.

Do I really need to put a washer between the fork spring and the spacer/spring on top of it? What will happen without a washer?
And how important is it to flatten out the top coil after cutting it so that the spring sits perfectly vertical on ground?

Sorry for so many queries, but I can't afford to lose an opportunity to suck out knowledge from experienced guys and you are my favorite xbhpian!

Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR

First of all thanks for thinking I am knowledgeable and as your favorite Xbhpian....hope I don't disappoint you too much..

Here is how the rebound spring works...When the center piston is fully in down position as the fork dives in a pot hole or front braking, the fork spring acts against compression and tries to come back to it's original position of being fully extended...in doing so , the more the spring is compressed, the greater the returning force .ie., more faster it will expand back once the compression force is relieved... To stop this force from causing destructive upward force damping is done through the fork oil and it's valve...While the fork is going down the oil in inner tube is allowed to flow freely by the Valve opening( one way Valve). and on the spring returning back, the valve closes and through a small orifice ,it allows oil flow at a slower speed...this is the action of the oil damper... now if during this time the wheel goes into a pot hole , the end of the damper mechanism with the oil damper valve will come and slam against the seal collar. again to soften this a small length spring is provided to absorb this....hope explanation is meaningful.....

Regarding having a 1 inch height spacer on top of spring it is to increase the preload . if you want more then go for 11/2 inches .

Here is a picture of the fork and how it is assembled...

Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR

Here are the basic types of front fork working arrangement...

This is the most common arrangement in most forks..there is no forward damping , only In Reverse movement.



Here is an advanced arrangement of cartridge type damper, in which both forward and reverse fork tube movement is damped...This type of fork does not bottom out.

Engine Over-Heating issue

Hi Guys,

My ZMR is over 38k Kms. I am facing over-heating issue in my bike. Especially after I drive close to 50kms or in heavy traffic, the engine starts fuming(little bit of smoke comes out through the fairing.)

Looks like there is oil leak in the engine compartment and due to heat its vaporizing. Gave it for service but of no use.Very bad experience.(Serviced at Pheonix Motors Madhapur,Hyderabad.)

Could you guys please suggest me a good service center or garage for ZMR(2011 Model Black) in Hyderabad(Near HITEC City preferred.).

Has anyone else faced similar issue?? Also which engine oil should I use to reduce Heat and make the engine smoother.

Thanks in Advance.

Regards,
Gil

Re: Engine Over-Heating issue


replies in bold.....

Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR

hi all

i got a basic query regarding the Riding style of ZMR in traffic , although i completed >50KMs on by bike i still cant figure out correct RPM and gear shift (though i go with the engine sound and correct RPM band mentioned in this thread) still i feel the bike wont pull in 4th and 5th gears and need to quickly downshift , i know this is a 4 stroke and tourer bike but still it should do its duty instead of lugging instantly as i decelerate even a little bit (when traffic slows for a moment )
Sometimes the engine performs really well in all the gears and i want to Save that setting and when i repeat it the next day it wont give the same results (

CBZ extreme and other 150cc have more pulling power in 3rd ,4th , 5th gears and am not asking the same power for ZMR but why its so weak in this section ?

Am i the only one getting this lagging problem if so what should i do to overcome this ? (is it my riding style or any Tuning should be done).

My daily gearshifting exp in traffic :

for the 1st gear its very easy to get into that RPM band without going too fast (bumper to bumper) and when the traffic is moving we will be engaging the 2nd gear and with lesser speeds we will be in that band but problem(lugging, jerking) comes only after that ie 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th

i have tried everything like shifting gears @3k , @3.5 and @4-4.5 k in city traffic .

if we go above 4k rpm the speed will increase which is not possible in city conditions if i shift below 3k we will get the Tak Tak noise.

Thanks in advance

Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR

Lots of factors are at play. You didn't tell your body weight, driving with pillion or single, which tyres are used at what levels of pressure.
My reply is based on assumption that you ride single, with stock tyres and Hero recommended air pressure.

I think you HATE the feeling of constantly driving the ZMR at higher rpm's, hence you wish to drive at the cozy rpm of 3000 but then you wish to accelerate like a rocket from there. Nobody on this forum would suggest you to drive at 3-4000 rpm with hard acceleration. This is gonna result in lugging no matter what. You mentioned cbz xtrreme, unicorn etc, those are much lighter than ZMR in weight and don't have insane pulling torque above 4000 rpm's like the ZMR, maybe that's why you like them as their speed is controllable even at higher rpm's?

Why don't you accustom yourself with driving at high rpm's constantly? [MENTION=41586]Divya Sharan[/MENTION] advised me a long time back to avoid driving at lower rpm's to avoid lugging the engine, and I have accustomed myself to ride at higher rpm's since then. Instead of engaging 3rd, 4th gears, keep riding in the lower (2nd or 3rd) gear at 4-5000 rpm's while holding the throttle steady at those rpm's. When you apply brakes at those speeds, engage lower gear as soon as rpm's drop below 4000. Also use the brakes more actively, brake and accelerate again, don't wait for the rpm's to drop as low as 3000. This is the only way you can achieve what you want without lugging the engine of ZMR.

Oh and please don't reply with "what about the mileage then"! Forget about the mileage with your current goals. Better yet, buy a lightweight commuter like FZ, gixxer or honda x-blade.

Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR

I knew it, something about driving at high revs was bothering you. The motorcycle does vibrate a little at high revs, but you need to drive past 6500 rpm to get irritated by it. Till then it's quite smooth, provided all of these are in perfect condition - handlebar vibration dampeners, fairing and sprocket-chain set.

If the chain is too tight or sprockets are worn out or have uneven wear, it will cause high vibrations in your footrest pegs and you will feel a bit harshness in overall riding but these vibrations can't be felt in the fairing or handlebars. The weighted vibration dampeners at the end of 2 piece handlebars work like a charm to prevent vibrations creeping up your hands/wrists. Are they broken? If not, remove and check whether the rubber bush/rings on the inner weight rod are there or not, also check whether the lock rings are not broken and it does lock in place.

I can drive my ZMR at highest rpm's without fairing vibrations. There is a simple fix. Dismantle the fairing on a Sunday, remove each and every single piece and then paste double sided foam tape between all the pieces, even around the headlight unit. It's a time consuming procedure, but it done correctly, your motorcycle fairing will be vibration less. Don't buy 3M double sided tape, that is quite costly and does not compress easily (it will cause gaps between the parts and undue stress on the fairing mounts), buy local ones which can be compressed by a little force easily.

After all this, check with your trusted mechanic for ruling out other vibration causes like loose or over-tightened engine mounts, misaligned rear wheel, racer ball kit bearing etc. After that you should be able to drive at 5k rpm without irritating vibrations. Although the engine is already stress-free at that rpm and forcing you to upshift, don't do it, keep riding at that rpm and keep the throttle steady for a few seconds, as it is you will have to either brake or accelerate after a few seconds. And if the speed is low while you kept the clutch pulled and de-accelerated slowly due to traffic, put in lower gear and pull with half-clutch while accelerating around 4-5k rpms. This will result in jerky driving but that's the only way for achieving what you want.

Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR

1.Chain sprocket : i have changed this for the 1st time in 2016 ending when i changed the Bore kit,Pistons , timing chain etc (posted in this thread) last time i checked was when the chain guard broken(little ) and the chain used to make contact and sounds were heard later gave to welder he welded it but he put chain on one side which was later rectified by a Street mechanic

2.Handlebar vibration dampeners : the right handle damper wAS BROKEN and am riding with it since then and will check the left side too as mentioned , as the topic came up i want to ask you that my handle bars are sligtly uneven (as the bike had Fallen couple of times) , for once when the handle was cross i rectified it by giving it to the Fork Bending mechanic and it was straightened but the Height of the handle bars issue was not recitified

want a small suggestion can i claim the handle Bars to new set of Handle bars under insurance() ? or its better to continue with the older Handle bars

3.Fairing : the mechanic @ SVC said u can claim the Fairing too so i shall go for it or is it better to dismantle it and re-arrange as you said

and the rest of the things u said i can manage with the mechanic and ask them to adress those problems

P.s : I have never claimed anything thru insurance till now , will my two claims (Handle bars , Fairing ) have the effect when i want to Sell my bike ? or its common to claim insurance for this Non-engine parts ?

TIA

Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR

You can claim anything under insurance, people make all kinds of absurd claims under insurance, at the most the insurance auditor/inspector will turn down your request, no harm in trying though. If there are overall scratches and/or cracks to prove an accident, then you are good to go. If only the handlebar is bent, they might not entertain your claim. Also, do you have zero dep AKA No-depreciation insurance? If not, the will only reimburse around 50% or less for fiber and glass parts.

You will have to change the handlebar pieces even if slightly bent, nobody can rectify it to match stock pieces. I too had to change it once when my motorcycle fell in the parking lot, there was a minor vertical bend but I had to replace it eventually. You need to replace both of them, there is no way around it.

BTW if your fairing is intact, scratch-less then there is no point in replacing it as the vibrations will creep up eventually. When did you last open or see your dismantled fairing? Are the mounts okay? Most of the times, the fairing looks okay from outside but the inner mounting points (fiber hooks and notches) break after accidents and that is the prime reason of fairing vibrations. If the fairing is totally perfect, then try to reduce fairing vibrations by putting foam tape between the fairing panels.

I have bought and sold a few motorcycles, I never checked for insurance claims, as far as my guess, nobody will check for insurance claims. As it is nowadays the second hand rate for zmr is too low, the buyer would be excited just to get a fully functional karizma zmr.

Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR

can i ask you which is the alternative best Engine oil for the Stock Honda ones ? i always use the stock ie 10w 30 can we use 10w 40 or 15w 30/40 or 20w 30/40 ?
i have read few convos where Shell Advance AX7 10w40 was mostly suggested by many , which is better Semi-synthetic or Fully-Synthetic oil ?
will these cause any effect on the engine or have no effect like Stock honda engine oil ?
suggest me best oil for the city traffic as i cover almost 1400Km/Per month so roughly in 1 and 1/2 months time i complete 2k Kms

Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR

Apologies to everyone for the super delayed response and my absence from the forum in general.

Hi Gil, your bike is consuming oil. Eventually, you'd need to get the head work done. For now, you can use any 20w40 mineral oil.
Motul 3100 is just an example of a 20w40 mineral oil.
Else Shell AX7 (blue bottle) is a decent option too. Its 10w40 though!


For the bold part above, what revs were you maintaining before slowing down? 3500?

Xtreme has absolutely NOTHING in the lower rev range. It has all its performance "above" 6000 revs. Therefore, if an Xtreme rider rode past, he just knew how to utilize his powerband well.

ZMR cannot be tuned, because it has an FI unit. I mean, it cannot be tuned at a road side mechanic. You need sophisticated software and algorithms on a laptop with the necessary hardware to program the ECU/FI systems.

Just 1 tip - stay 1 gear lower than you usually do at the same speeds you usually maintain. So, if you ride at 45-50 kmph in 5th gear in city (when the roads are open), do the same speed in a gear lower - 4th!
Do not engage 5th gear unless you hit 60-65 and then let us know if you still face the same issue.

For every gear (3rd, 4th and 5th) - engage one gear lower than you normally do.

Get your tappets adjusted. 0.1mm each for exhaust and inlet. Ensure that the SVC/mechanic ONLY uses a Feeler Gauge to set these clearances. If they don't have, buy one for yourself. It's cheap.


You can use any oil you feel good in w30 and w40 grades. Shell Advance AX7 10w40 (Yellow bottle) is a fully synthetic oil and not exactly VFM. You can simply opt for the normal Shell AX7 10w40 oil (Blue Bottle).

Re: Engine Over-Heating issue

Thank you so much [MENTION=35912]vickyraj82[/MENTION] bro... I got my bike serviced at Phoenix madhapur itself.
The mechanic told me that the engine needs to be bored.. It sounded ridiculous to me.. So finally I just changed the oil seal in crank case and the tappet seal in engine head.

Let's see how it fares this time... Will. Keep you posted...

Re: Hero Honda Karizma ZMR

@Divya Sharan Thanks much bro... This time based on ur recommendation I have used shell AX7 10w40. First impressions : bike is less noisy and really smooth, the gear shift could have been a little smoother I feel.

Nevertheless, a good choice. Thanks for the recommendation. [emoji3]