I am having a strange problem with my Pulsar 220. Lately I've been having rear brake hydraulic power loss. Meaning, the the rear brake pedal goes down bottom dead center, all of a sudden, without any braking whatsover, and then springs back to life after a few mins.

After a few mins, the braking power and vacuum is back, and again in the middle of nowhere and suddenly the brake loses hydraulic power and the pedal goes down bottom dead center, then after a few mins it's back to normal! Any idea why? Changed the old fluid to new one, but still persists

Planning to bleed the system. Is there any master cyclinder problem of any sort? Your views highly appreciated. Thanks.

Cheers!
VJ

Praful: Great explanation there. Do you know anything about UNI FILTER? Heard that it works almost like a free flow but doesn't damage because essentially, it's a filter.

VJ: Very peculiar stuff hearing from old owners Does seem to be problem with cylinders.

Thank you old dawg, will post a detailed review once I bleed the system one more time and see what can be done. Still if it doesn't go as planned, it must be the master cylinder as the culprit as I suspected.

Cheers!
VJ

Bleed the lines. Looks like some air bubbles!

PS: You have a Fi?

Yes, I have heard about UNI. Its good coz its a Foam filter It might be marginally free flowing compared to stock.

Ajinkya has it on his 220!

Thanks mate. Carb I'm afraid Will bleed the system and post a review here so that any future queries one-off queries has some answer.

Cheers!
VJ

Hmm.. This is the same part which the PBK fellows had replaced in my bike in one of the numerous visits to the Bajaj Probiking Temple Yard

I think it is the socket under the seat that hangs just above the ECU. This this thing going down, the bike will be completely dead except all the lights would work fine.

This is what I had to do http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/t...1-08120444.jpg



Praful Sir, I got a tiny issue with the bike.
Whenever I ride hard and stop and kill the engine and try to restart in a few moments it refuses to start. But if push-started it starts and the same never occurs again until the next time I ride hard.

I generally travel on highways and stick to them hence my speeds are a little on the higher side. I generally ride on these RPMs

1st Gear : 6k RPM
2nd Gear : 7k RPM
3rd Gear : 10k RPM
4th Gear : 10k RPM
5th Gear : 7~9k RPM

This had been happening for a long time, I just failed to notice. This came to my notice when I rode at 120-ies with a pillion of 80kgs and exactly the next day again when I was riding at 130-ies alone (kinda had got stuck till the good old antz came to my rescue). I have installed a FFE, had changed the starter motor few months back. The light comes on, fuel pump comes on and even shows the power flowing to the ignition motor but no sound. The Battery is good (new Amaron) and shows the correct volts (16.83)
Help Please!

Utsav sir!

If its starting with push starting then definitely something is wrong with the starter circuit. In all probability it is over heating!

Riding hard and fast should have any effect on the starter. I have done many 600-1000 km/day rides, never had an issue like this.

Ignition coil/starter motor, something in that circuit is getting over heated.

After the fuel pump primes, what happens when you thumb the starter?

PS: Have you replaced your wiring harness?


EDIT: Today I made kheema out of my rear sprocket bearing!!

My rear sprocket bearing...Or what's left of it!! LoL!






I have to dig my bike's manual out from somewhere, but if someone has it out in the open. Can someone check what is the replacement interval for the rear sprocket bearing. It was some 20-30K IIRC.

Got my bike serviced at Auto Service, BLR. The high engine temperature issue is sorted out. It was due to the dusty sensor. Service was good as usual but non-availability of few spares . Exhaust shield, pilot lamp and rear break switch+spring set up all needed replacement in my bike and they weren't available. So was disappointed with that .

@Praful: Will post it once I reach home after my graveyard shift at work.

All the parts you mentioned are swappable with the Dts-i, its weird that the stock is not there, more so considering that these are frequently moving parts!

Manoj: Sorry din't get what were you going to post once you're home?

I'm spending a day at AutoService tomorrow. Need to get a few basics fixed in the bike, especially after yesterday's incident with the sprocket bearing!!

Yeah that's the strangest thing. Thank god at least the accelerator and clutch cables were there! Was telling about the replacement interval of the rear sprocket bearing .

Ask for the above parts when you visit tomorrow. Not sure if it was really unavailable or the lady at the spares counter wasn't sure, as I went there at 2 which is right after their lunch hours.

P.S: Btw saw a red 220 at AS with mono shock at rear with fender eliminator , tyre hugger and P135's rear number plate holder. Looked cool. Not sure how functional it is though! It looked like the swing arm , mono shocks , rear alloys/tyres , tyre hugger were all from FZ.

LOL! That was a pretty burned out bearing Praful, I hope you didn't push her off of a cliff

I guess the rear sprocket bearing doesn't have a definite time for changing it. All I've been told is it needs to be changed every 5k to 10k KMS and drive chain for every 5k Kms depending on the condition of the chain and sprocket.

When I asked to the PBK guys, of when to change the bearing, they told me there isn't definite KM to change the bearing, all it nedds to be changed is when you hear strange sound and rear wheel wobble and all that sort of stuff.

But then one guy at PBK (seemed a bit knowledgable though ) told me that the bearing interval was somewhere around 5k to 10k KMS. Now he or I might be wrong, but that's what I gathered from him.

Cheers!
VJ

Drive chain at 5K kms?

No man, at minimum with absolute no care also it should last you atleast 10-12K Kms. And on a average it should last atleast 20K +/-2 K Kms if take care of properly.

And I doubt the bearing needs to be replaced every 5K kms. Atleast I know I have not changed the bearing 17 times till date . I am sure its around the 15-20K mark at the least!

Yes looks cool. Have my doubts how it handles though!

Even if it is 15-20k, I have done double on the one which came from factory. Time for a change?

Q2. How do we 'Take Care of it'?

A1. If memory serves me right, and both me & bike are getting old here [exercised brain memory sectors after many moons ] I replaced the bearing only around 35-40K kms first. And post that somewhere around 60K.

A2. Its a wear and tear consumable. Just ensure its greased up at every major service you do.

The K&N conical filter you must be talking of... Now they have a custom made stock replacement filter made for pulsar 220, which fits in the airbox of the 220 and is shaped exactly like the stock one, so there is no chance of any dirt or water bypassing the filter. And funnily enough they say mileage increases, dont know how this could ever be possible as more air means more fuel consumption

And I fail to see how or why the engine could get damaged ? Any other possible reason besides heat ? (dust cant be an issue)