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**krish2778** · 05-24-2012, 04:11 PM

Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post

Exactly Krish. Irrespective of whether it's FFE or free flow air filter, all things said and done correspond to one thing, suck in more air, and suck out more. And I clearly noticed your point bro.

If you look why I mentioned FI and go back a few pages, Praful has answered your same query in *huge chunks* regarding your query. No problem mate, as long as you are carburetted, you're on safer side.

Cheers!
VJ

Now im confused. Im not having any problem with the Free flow exhaust. I was merely trying to explain a member the fact that getting K&N was not worth it.

Another thing to be noted, running lean causes more heat because in stock exhaust you have the cat con which blocks the flow of the gas to convert the residue gas to lesser harmful form and thus there is backpressure from the exhaust gas, thus generating more heat.

Cheers Mate
Ride Safe
Krishna

**somnath_halder** · 05-24-2012, 05:04 PM

pulsar 220 DTS-Fi Meter assembly/Instrument cluster (model no.- DK19009, base black)

This is my quary regarding my pulsar 220 DTS-Fi Meter assembly/Instrument cluster (model no.- DK19009, base black).
As my old digital meter RPM and fuel indicator not working. I need to replace it with new one.
But part no. mentioned above not available in kolkata with any of the delear. But the same part no model also not available. I've tried with almost 6-7 new meter assembly of pulsar 220 DTS-Si, but those are not working with my bike.

My bike details is as follows:-
Chassis no : MD2DHDKZZRCJ08016
Engine No : DKGBRJ07550
Mnf. year: 2008

So can any one please inform me from do i have this part for my model as i'm from kolkata

**Praful** · 05-24-2012, 05:51 PM

Originally posted by somnath_halder View Post

So can any one please inform me from do i have this part for my model as i'm from kolkata

You're lucky I'm sitting in PBK today whole day

These are the part numbers for the instrument cluster.

DK191009 - Old type Fi Display
DK191020 - New type Fi Display

**B7ACKTHORN** · 05-24-2012, 06:09 PM

Originally posted by krish2778 View Post

Now im confused. Im not having any problem with the Free flow exhaust. I was merely trying to explain a member the fact that getting K&N was not worth it.

Another thing to be noted, running lean causes more heat because in stock exhaust you have the cat con which blocks the flow of the gas to convert the residue gas to lesser harmful form and thus there is backpressure from the exhaust gas, thus generating more heat.

Cheers Mate
Ride Safe
Krishna

Yes, Krish. I think we are pulling this topic too long don't you think

Thing is, with cat con, you get all your emissions under control and that's about it. The free flow exhaust doesn't alter the heat characteristics of the engine that much, Krish.

If you look from your bike, in a FFE you will have the engine rev more freely, as you said all the obstacles inside the stock silencer such as cat con, and the two-way diffuser are removed, which leads to more faster exhaust and obviously equals more power. Now there is a good physics law for that one, I forgot which one it is errrr

But all the heat, backpressure has even more adverse effects on an FI which has a FFE and FF air filter, which is a big no-no, but still people test and get their machines ruined. So I guess that's pretty much about it.

Cheers!
VJ

**krish2778** · 05-24-2012, 06:12 PM

Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post

Yes, Krish. I think we are pulling this topic too long don't you think

Thing is, with cat con, you get all your emissions under control and that's about it. The free flow exhaust doesn't alter the heat characteristics of the engine that much, Krish.

If you look from your bike, in a FFE you will have the engine rev more freely, as you said all the obstacles inside the stock silencer such as cat con, and the two-way diffuser are removed, which leads to more faster exhaust and obviously equals more power. Now there is a good physics law for that one, I forgot which one it is errrr

But all the heat, backpressure has even more adverse effects on an FI which has a FFE and FF air filter, which is a big no-no, but still people test and get their machines ruined. So I guess that's pretty much about it.

Cheers!
VJ

Ah, now it is clear. but i did feel a great difference in the heating issue after switching to the ffe. Wonder why.
And yeah, we streched it more than its needed. So lets stop it here.

Cheer Mate
Ride Safe
Krishna

**sparks** · 05-25-2012, 12:33 AM

Originally posted by utsavchs View Post

Hmm.. This is the same part which the PBK fellows had replaced in my bike in one of the numerous visits to the Bajaj Probiking Temple Yard

I think it is the socket under the seat that hangs just above the ECU. This this thing going down, the bike will be completely dead except all the lights would work fine.

This is what I had to do

http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/t...1-08120444.jpg

Sorry for late reply

Thanks Utsav and Praful this was precisely my problem, battery working, lights working, even the starter working and no sound of fuel pump being triggered

@Utsav I had to transport my bike in similar way

**ryder_boney** · 05-26-2012, 03:43 PM

hi guys, i'm lookin forward to upgrade rear tyre. any suggestions regarding size? has any one tried r15 (v2) rear tyre on the bike?

**Praful** · 05-29-2012, 09:53 PM

Originally posted by ryder_boney View Post

hi guys, i'm lookin forward to upgrade rear tyre. any suggestions regarding size? has any one tried r15 (v2) rear tyre on the bike?

Plenty of discussions have already happened in this thread.please go through the previous pages!

**Roystandbz** · 05-31-2012, 07:18 PM

My black hawk

QueriesThings which I already changed
1. Chain sprocket
2. Spark plugs
3. Air filter
4. Rear and front wheel bearings
5. Disk pads
6. Air filter

Thanks a lot for your Patience and Time friends

look forward to your replies.

**rx100.7050** · 05-31-2012, 09:44 PM

Originally posted by Roystandbz View Post

QueriesThings which I already changed
1. Chain sprocket
2. Spark plugs
3. Air filter
4. Rear and front wheel bearings
5. Disk pads
6. Air filter

Thanks a lot for your Patience and Time friends

look forward to your replies.

Vibrations are part of the Pulsar legacy. You can't avoid it. Rest assured, 220 Fi is one hell of a machine.

Tappet settings are necessary but can't comment as am a noob too.
CO setting is done as a health checkup of the engine. They make the air-fuel mixture lean/rich. Thus, it also makes compliant to Pollution norms.

Motul/OKS are good product. You should buy de-greasing too since cleaning up with Diesel is cumbersome & one needs to ensure that Diesel gets wiped off.

There are Micheline Tyres available. You can also try Ceat Vertigo. Read the forum as quite a lot has been discussed. Stay with profile which is suited for 220. FZ tyres will make it short geared & will take time to achieve top speed.

Top speed is subject to various conditions. If your bike is pulling up good & keeping pace, nothing to worry about then.

**Roystandbz** · 05-31-2012, 10:27 PM

Originally posted by rx100.7050 View Post

Vibrations are part of the Pulsar legacy. You can't avoid it. Rest assured, 220 Fi is one hell of a machine.

Tappet settings are necessary but can't comment as am a noob too.
CO setting is done as a health checkup of the engine. They make the air-fuel mixture lean/rich. Thus, it also makes compliant to Pollution norms.

Motul/OKS are good product. You should buy de-greasing too since cleaning up with Diesel is cumbersome & one needs to ensure that Diesel gets wiped off.

There are Micheline Tyres available. You can also try Ceat Vertigo. Read the forum as quite a lot has been discussed. Stay with profile which is suited for 220. FZ tyres will make it short geared & will take time to achieve top speed.

Top speed is subject to various conditions. If your bike is pulling up good & keeping pace, nothing to worry about then.

thanks for the reply

i have also heard the chain lubricant from tvs is also good, any feedback on that and yeah i've ridden my friends carb 220 and personally i like the fi version better

but you do have to stock up fuel on a minimum level in a fi

**'nYsus'** · 05-31-2012, 10:38 PM

hey xbhpians...... wassup??

i had a query about the afr setting.... very unfortunately, while the bike was still new (almost 500kms), i had fiddled with the afr screw, reading an article on the internet about the sport setting of the bike, although, i have set it back reading one of your posts, please tell me how to check if the screw setting is good....

**rx100.7050** · 05-31-2012, 11:45 PM

Originally posted by 'nYsus' View Post

hey xbhpians...... wassup??

i had a query about the afr setting.... very unfortunately, while the bike was still new (almost 500kms), i had fiddled with the afr screw, reading an article on the internet about the sport setting of the bike, although, i have set it back reading one of your posts, please tell me how to check if the screw setting is good....

You are asking in the wrong Ownership thread. This is about the DTSFi model (Hope you know that Pulsar 220 was launched initially as an Fi version)

**rx100.7050** · 05-31-2012, 11:48 PM

Originally posted by Roystandbz View Post

thanks for the reply

i have also heard the chain lubricant from tvs is also good, any feedback on that and yeah i've ridden my friends carb 220 and personally i like the fi version better

but you do have to stock up fuel on a minimum level in a fi

TVS uses some German brand I guess & may be good too. Yes it's advised to keep the fuel level a bit more than the reserve & never ever let it go dry

**Huzee** · 06-07-2012, 09:20 AM

Originally posted by Roystandbz View Post

QueriesThings which I already changed
1. Chain sprocket
2. Spark plugs
3. Air filter
4. Rear and front wheel bearings
5. Disk pads
6. Air filter

Thanks a lot for your Patience and Time friends

look forward to your replies.

well congrats ...

Tappet settings are not required for FI , the FI adjusts optimum fuel-air ratio without any settings required, however if u install a FFE or FFF then ECU remapping and/or tappet setting is necessary if your engine is running lean.

CO setting is for primarily for pollution under control and for lean or rich mix, a aid for gauging mileage and improving average.

Motul is the best one, but before using the chain needs to be free of dust, grease and grime , I clean my 220's chain with diesel and leave it for at least 12 hrs b4 using the spray. The chain has to be dry b4 using the spray, there should be no diesel residue.

Zapper wyde is an amazing tyre for the 220. Sirac too , but all are soft compounds so life is not all that great, if you rip then 15,000 max.

Check fuel mix for top end speed, the bike can reach 145 max speed but its a false speedo reading, true max speed is not more than 125-130.

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