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**krish2778** · 05-17-2012, 05:59 PM

Originally posted by rx100.7050 View Post

Seems like I have a biz opportunity here!

jokes apart, I will enquire here & if in stock will reply back. Will help you guys courier it to you.

Sure does, Praful bro seems to be ready to pay double and get 2 sets too...

Haha...

Now is this Wildflare costlier than the MRF and whats the size of the front Tyre 80 section or 90 ? Its a softer compound than mrf, so it'll be costlier i guess, any idea about the price ?

Cheers mate
Ride Safe

**AashishS** · 05-18-2012, 11:02 AM

Originally posted by Praful View Post

Are you f**kin kidding me ... what do you do man? Drive like an old man?

Mine was done and over by 15K. Agreed I did a lot of offroading with it... but even then ... it lasted double!!!!

haha..

i ride only in city..no touring and ripping

**Praful** · 05-18-2012, 11:10 AM

Originally posted by rx100.7050 View Post

Seems like I have a biz opportunity here!

I can get plenty more guys who desperately need a 90/90-17 front tyre. If this works out there can be mass order for BLR too

Originally posted by krish2778 View Post

Sure does, Praful bro seems to be ready to pay double and get 2 sets too...

Double if its still available at the old price

Originally posted by krish2778 View Post

Now is this Wildflare costlier than the MRF and whats the size of the front Tyre 80 section or 90 ? Its a softer compound than mrf, so it'll be costlier i guess, any idea about the price ?

2.5 years back I got it for 1.3K. At that time the MRF front was selling for 1.8K. Its a 90/90-17. But it forms a thinner running profile and a higher side profile than stock i.e. the speedo under reads by about 2Kmph

Originally posted by A@shIsh View Post

haha..

i ride only in city..no touring and ripping

You lucky dawg!!!

**adityabhelke** · 05-18-2012, 06:31 PM

Rear tyres for my P220 Fi

After running on the stock tires for 25K, its time to get fresh rubber before the monsoon sets in.

What are my options ?
-Must last 20K to 25K, ie not very soft
-Good wet grip (so obviously good dry grip too

)
-Good cornering grip
-Off roading capable

How much wide can I go at the rear (stock is 120/80) without any major mods?

**krish2778** · 05-18-2012, 07:01 PM

Originally posted by Praful View Post

I can get plenty more guys who desperately need a 90/90-17 front tyre. If this works out there can be mass order for BLR too

Double if its still available at the old price

2.5 years back I got it for 1.3K. At that time the MRF front was selling for 1.8K. Its a 90/90-17. But it forms a thinner running profile and a higher side profile than stock i.e. the speedo under reads by about 2Kmph

You lucky dawg!!!

I wouldnt mind even if the cost is some 200-300 more than the mrf , but then the courier charges will also apply, will have to check the price and then i can conform,
2kmph ? I couldnt give a rats ass as to those 2kmph going off my meter..

As long as i get superior grip. As ceat says, the road is filled with idiots.

Cheers Mate

**Praful** · 05-19-2012, 02:01 AM

Originally posted by adityabhelke View Post

After running on the stock tires for 25K, its time to get fresh rubber before the monsoon sets in.

What are my options ?
-Must last 20K to 25K, ie not very soft
-Good wet grip (so obviously good dry grip too

)
-Good cornering grip
-Off roading capable

How much wide can I go at the rear (stock is 120/80) without any major mods?

You are "still" on stock tyres!!!

If its not very soft then it wont give good wet and dry grip.you need to find out which trade off is more important for you. Given your requirements I'd say stick to stock tyres.

You can put a 140 rear but it might get really funny with the handling...all depends on the aspect ratio of the tyre and what rim width it was designed for.

Originally posted by krish2778 View Post

I wouldnt mind even if the cost is some 200-300 more than the mrf , but then the courier charges will also apply, will have to check the price and then i can conform,
2kmph ? I couldnt give a rats ass as to those 2kmph going off my meter..

As long as i get superior grip. As ceat says, the road is filled with idiots.

Cheers Mate

Stock MRF costs ~2K +/- 200 from what I have been hearing.

And a -2kmph is actually good..basically your speedo will be more accurate

**M@n()J** · 05-20-2012, 06:20 AM

High engine temperature

Yesterday on my Bangalore - Chennai usual ride, the bike's high engine temperature indicator started blinking when I crossed 8 k RPM. This was around 6-7 am in the morning near Krishnagiri . Then tried to restrict the bike to 7 k RPM everything was fine. But later it started blinking continuously no matter how many breaks I took or on whichever RPM I was riding. Finally reached home at Chennai by 11:30 am and left the bike to cool down. And in the night at around 7 PM when I turned on the key (without starting ) the indicator was still coming up. Could it be another case of the sensor acting crazy?

How would we know if it is actually indicating high engine temp?

P.S: Engine oil level is fine.

**Dreamwalker987** · 05-20-2012, 06:55 PM

Hey guys i have few queries in my mind...

1)best way to check mileage on FI 220??...
2) is ok to disengage auto chock permanently?
2)is it advisable to use K&N air filter?? does some body have experience of it??
by increasing co setting can i use one without loosing mileage?
3)does throttle body cleaning is advisable?
i see carbon deposit surrounding butter fly valve...
4)what safety procedure do i have to keep in mind when i am servicing my bike from a local mechanic?
5)CO setting check interval??

i have been servicing my bike from a local mechanic who use to work at Bajaj service center...he never suggest me extra stuff like those are written on service book...just a plain servicing and oil change every time.and the only 220fi service center in navi mumbai is not good as compared to where i do the servicing.

mods:
K&N air filter
Joel's free flow exhaust.
NGK spark plug and MSD plug wire.

i don't ride much now a days so wanna get as much as possible mileage and keep my bike well maintained...Thank you in advance

**B7ACKTHORN** · 05-20-2012, 08:24 PM

Originally posted by M@n()J View Post

Yesterday on my Bangalore - Chennai usual ride, the bike's high engine temperature indicator started blinking when I crossed 8 k RPM. This was around 6-7 am in the morning near Krishnagiri . Then tried to restrict the bike to 7 k RPM everything was fine. But later it started blinking continuously no matter how many breaks I took or on whichever RPM I was riding. Finally reached home at Chennai by 11:30 am and left the bike to cool down. And in the night at around 7 PM when I turned on the key (without starting ) the indicator was still coming up. Could it be another case of the sensor acting crazy?

How would we know if it is actually indicating high engine temp?

P.S: Engine oil level is fine.

A lot of the times, there are reported instance where the temperature sensor gone kaput or going crazy. The instances include when you wash your bike or if the bike has been unused for a long time.

Yes if the indicator blinks even after the engine has cooled, sureshot confirmation that your sensor has gone kaput. Try replacing it.

Regarding the engine heat itself, it's really hard to know when the engine is overheated, visible cues include, lagged throttle response and poor pickup and your too much heat emanating inside your jeans.

All said, try replacing your sensor mate, it should work well.

Originally posted by Dreamwalker987 View Post

Hey guys i have few queries in my mind...

1)best way to check mileage on FI 220??...
2) is ok to disengage auto chock permanently?
2)is it advisable to use K&N air filter?? does some body have experience of it??
by increasing co setting can i use one without loosing mileage?
3)does throttle body cleaning is advisable?
i see carbon deposit surrounding butter fly valve...
4)what safety procedure do i have to keep in mind when i am servicing my bike from a local mechanic?
5)CO setting check interval??

i have been servicing my bike from a local mechanic who use to work at Bajaj service center...he never suggest me extra stuff like those are written on service book...just a plain servicing and oil change every time.and the only 220fi service center in navi mumbai is not good as compared to where i do the servicing.

Using a K&N filter needs some tuning in the ECU part, else your bike is either gonna start or have jerky rides. Take it to an authorized tuning center for better results.

Apart from that all else, is the same. Nothing to worry.

Cheers!
VJ

mods:
K&N air filter
Joel's free flow exhaust.
NGK spark plug and MSD plug wire.

i don't ride much now a days so wanna get as much as possible mileage and keep my bike well maintained...Thank you in advance

Not really. The 220 FI can be more of less be in the same equation with the Carb powered one. Unlike carb setting the ECU needs to be adjusted accordingly either for lean or a rich mixture, either ways the ECU can give you the best mileage at its optimum setting. I'd advice not to fiddle things with ECU. The best mileage you get now is the best you get.

**sparks** · 05-20-2012, 11:39 PM

My bike was nearing 39k kms when its engine without any warning died (my friend was driving it to office).........had to leave it in office for a day......i called kothrud PBK guys for pickup but they refused stating that they pickup bike only within city limits

......had a hard time transporting my bike to kothrud area PBK-SVC (from hinjewadi)

The problem was when you turn on my bike's key it would self check but there was no sound of fuel pump running (I thought fuel pump had gone kaput). I conveyed my thoughts to PBK....they told to look into the matter. But problem came out to be something else, they told it was a wiring issue and fixed it.

If anybody could help me I just wanted to know the description of part they replaced.

DJ201028 Relay(Interlocking)

and what is the significance of this part??

**Praful** · 05-21-2012, 12:13 PM

Originally posted by M@n()J View Post

Could it be another case of the sensor acting crazy?
How would we know if it is actually indicating high engine temp?
P.S: Engine oil level is fine.

Did you ride through rain/slush/water logged area's anytime recently?

If its really over heating the engine would burn off and the level would start going down quite a bit. I suspect its a sensor!

Originally posted by Dreamwalker987 View Post

Hey guys i have few queries in my mind...

1)best way to check mileage on FI 220??...

Tank top to tank top is the only method to check mileage.Fill your tankt to the brim and remember till where you have filled up. Ride till the low fuel warning comes on and then tankup till the point you had filled fuel the last time.

This does *not* give an exact indication

2) is ok to disengage auto chock permanently?

There is no autochoke in the Fi

2)is it advisable to use K&N air filter?? does some body have experience of it??
by increasing co setting can i use one without loosing mileage?

If you want the bike to live longer, I advise you to stay away from KnN.

3)does throttle body cleaning is advisable?
i see carbon deposit surrounding butter fly valve...

Every 15K kms cleaning is recommended.

4)what safety procedure do i have to keep in mind when i am servicing my bike from a local mechanic?

Don't leave it there

5)CO setting check interval??

If you feel any drastic change in throttle response/mileage/topspeed/acceleration then check CO settings. Else every 5K should be sufficient.

My answers above in bold

Originally posted by sparks View Post

If anybody could help me I just wanted to know the description of part they replaced.

DJ201028 Relay(Interlocking)

and what is the significance of this part??

Don't know which part it is, but did the low-batt icon flash before dying out?

**Dreamwalker987** · 05-21-2012, 02:25 PM

Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post

Not really. The 220 FI can be more of less be in the same equation with the Carb powered one. Unlike carb setting the ECU needs to be adjusted accordingly either for lean or a rich mixture, either ways the ECU can give you the best mileage at its optimum setting. I'd advice not to fiddle things with ECU. The best mileage you get now is the best you get.

Okay sir i will not mess with ECU

Originally posted by Praful View Post

My answers above in bold

Thanks you.
That was exact answer i was looking for

**Huzee** · 05-22-2012, 10:46 AM

2)is it advisable to use K&N air filter?? does some body have experience of it??
by increasing co setting can i use one without loosing mileage?

If you want the bike to live longer, I advise you to stay away from KnN.

@Praful
What happens ? does the filter affect the engine ? and how ?

**Praful** · 05-22-2012, 11:52 AM

Originally posted by Huzee View Post

@Praful
What happens ? does the filter affect the engine ? and how ?

Ok, now I know a lot of people will come in and say their father and grandfather everyone used KnN without a problem. But I have seen too many people going back to stock due to a variety of reason coz after the initial fun factor KnN becomes more of an irritant.

Now, this is more for people like me who use their bike daily. If one rides only on weekends then the damage of KnN is quite minimized.

Firstly, with a KnN the bike needs to be in proper state of tune else most of the time it ends up running really lean and overheats the engine.

Next, KnN is a bigger filter and lets in more air say what you want but it lets in more dirt as well. So many poeple have had issues with their bore-piston after being on KnN for a long time.

Also, a KnN puts you in great risk in the rains where the exposed filter can suck in water into the engine, unless you have been smart and have left the filter inside the box!

Now don't get me wrong I am not saying KnN does not work. Its just that the tradeoffs are too much for the minor bump in throttle response. Unless one very very regular with maintenance and rides in relatively clean environs I'd not recommend a KnN ever.

**B7ACKTHORN** · 05-22-2012, 07:30 PM

I am having a strange problem with my Pulsar 220. Lately I've been having rear brake hydraulic power loss. Meaning, the the rear brake pedal goes down bottom dead center, all of a sudden, without any braking whatsover, and then springs back to life after a few mins.

After a few mins, the braking power and vacuum is back, and again in the middle of nowhere and suddenly the brake loses hydraulic power and the pedal goes down bottom dead center, then after a few mins it's back to normal! Any idea why? Changed the old fluid to new one, but still persists

Planning to bleed the system. Is there any master cyclinder problem of any sort? Your views highly appreciated. Thanks.

Cheers!
VJ

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