this is not fair..... reducing prices after i bought twister .....1month back

during morning hour cold engine is not starting easily only after 4 or 5 times pressing automatic starting switch its starting....i changed my strategy...i am using kicker to start the bike in the morning...its easily starting now...wihtin one kick....my 2cents

good to see you got the gear shifting right!!.It could have damaged the gears otherwise.

mostly its due to Low current in battery.Honda has put a very low capacity battery(only 3 Ampere hour) which i think gets drained quite fast.also since you have done only 250km it must have not got fully charged yet.in my opinion,just use kick starter for now and do not use self starter too often.

hey fybercyber and everyone,i wanted to know,does your bike starts with "choke ON" easily using kick?my bike seems to have some problem with its choke ON. when in the morning i try to start by putting choke ON it does not start easily with kick. but it starts easily when choke lever is kept OFF.(pls note i do not use self start)this has been going on since day one but i never bothered to use choke since i dint face any starting problems even in winter.

They should have done this from the very beginning ! Honda (hmsi) stupidly overpriced this fine bike just because of their agreement with the munjals (HeroHonda) not to compete in the same segment . This is why twister never took off in India ... if priced correctly & competitively with other 100cc bikes .. with the glowing independent reviews it got at launch ... best in segment performance & fuel mileage ... honda name .... it should have been the highest selling bike in this segment now . Honda purposely killed the twister to appease HeroHonda . This what I feel .

Agree with sachin'jee . 3ah battery is barely adequate for self start motor . Moreover your battery will achieve it's full capacity after about 10 full charge-discharge cycles . I usually fully discharge and immediately charge up a new battery for a few cycles on an old pc UPS I have , before use . Your own strategy is very good too .

If your bike is starting with one kick in the morning without use of choke , the carb is tuned to rich mixture (i.e burning faltu petrol). Ideally it should not start up and idle well without choke first time in the morning . Have your carb tuned to leaner mixture (i.e open up the air screw a bit) . Check your air-filter for clogging too , replace if needed .

Hi pinaki , I have been experimenting with fuel screw for over 3 months now,firstly got it tuned from Honda SVC but they never got it right.as per user manual Idling must be set at 1400RPM(+-100). problem that i am unable to solve is to get stable Idling at 1500 RPM and at same time do not face any starting problems at this RPM. currently i have set the fuel screw at a position where in i get maximum RPM and then tried to set the idling at lowest possible RPM where in i do not face starting/running problem,which now stands at 1900 RPM. now if i try to bring the ideling down below 1900 RPM by turning ideling screw,then i am facing starting as well occasional running problems such as bike stopping in traffic when i pull clutch in first & second gear.hence i am reluctant to bring idling RPM further down from present 1900 to 1500.
now coming to carburetor tuning theory,since i have set fuel screw at a position where i get maximum RPM,it means that engine is making perfect combustion right? because from this position if i make mixture lean then RPM drops due to less fuel compared to air and if i try to make mixture rich then also RPM drops due to more fuel then air.(note that air quantity getting inside engine is fixed and it does not change and it depends on condition of air filter)
I have checked the air filter and its little bit dirty,(please see the picture of air filter i have uploaded in previous posts on page 45). so i think the only option i am left with to bring RPM down to 1500 is to make mixture either rich or lean (as stated above) and both of which i think will effect mileage.i do not have any complains on mileage.it was quite difficult to work on tuning without having tachometer and it takes lots of patience,time and dozens of test drives to get tuning perfectly.

Are you adjusting the RPM with the idle screw on cold engine or warm ? On my new splendor , I adjusted cold engine idle rpm to 900 it goes up to about 1400 when warmed up . Air screw adjusted only after warm up , then tweaked back a bit when cold for easy startup with choke lever engaged . Works perfectly for me , it runs 68-72kms to the liter . 1900 rpm idle is too high even when hot IMHO , I think you may be doing someting incorrectly here , but psr'jee is the expert on this topic here , not me . Yell for him to join in here .. he's regular on ZMA-R forums .

pinaki, 1900 RPM is when engine is worm or slightly on hotter side.i have not checked how much it drops when cold,i am not finding tachometer at local mechanics here.i think it will be around 1500 when cold.will try to contact psr'jee,thanks for info.will there be any harm to engine due to high idling RPM?

Ji you don't have to yell for me....I am at your service...and I am no expert ,just another Xbhpian learning along with others here.
Sachin, Here is what i had understood with my little grey matter on proper tuning .
Before starting on anything check the spark plug color...If it is white your AFR is lean, LIGHT TAN is correct and dark color rich...once you know your present AFR setup let us begin experimenting.
Once the engine is brought up to operating temperature, by riding for at least 3 to 4 Kms, set the AFR first...Most CV type carburetors have a AFR screw which adjusts the quantum of fuel from 'O' to 2.5 K RPM.Turning this screw clockwise will tighten it,and make the AFR LEAN, and turning anticlockwise will loosen it out,and make AFR RICH.
IF your plug had been white, then turn AFR screw HALF turn(180 degrees) anticlockwise to make the mix rich,and if the plug was dark turn the AFR screw clockwise to make it LEAN...
Now in hot engine condition set idle as per manufacturer's recommendation...or at 1,500 RPM...This is the starting point of your setup for AFR and reliable cold start.
Please remember with low ambient temperature cold start WILL require use of Choke and there is nothing wrong in doing it....ambient of 25 degrees or less will require choke if the AFR had been setup for good FE.
Everytime the AFR is adjusted continue driving and note down the engine's behavior and the FE you get.For each adjustment, at least 100 Kms ride is essential to evaluate,at the end of which check plug color and adjust as neccessary till you get light tan color...
Most important of all start this process with a clean, preferably NEW Air Filter.....just my thought

psr,thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge.The carburetor on Twister is from Keihin. I will check the spark color and report back.

All Hondas use Keihin only, and it is famous for jamming and loss of thread of AFR screw..so set your AFR with a clean/NEW air filter, and keep turning of AFR screw to minimum and not to experiment too much.
Keihin parts are not available,and you have to change whole carb for even small problems.....and they cost twice as much as Mikuni.

First Reserve Update

Hi All,

Reached my first reserve at 398kms.
Had filled Rs. 350 + Rs. 100 (near dealers place). Dealer claimed 800ml already in tank while delivering the bike. So, totally fuel consumed works out as

Filled = 6.7L + 0.8L = 7.5L
Remaining in reserve = 1.6L
Fuel Used = 5.9L
Average = 398km/5.9L = ~67.5 kmpl YAY!!!!

Assuming dealer did not actually filled 0.8L while delivering bike, works out to be stupendous 78kmpl!! Which is hard to believe, so lets give the dealer benefit of doubt

Lets say right now average is around 65kmpl... Will do a reserve-to-reserve with 1L and update you all guys to have a more 'precise' number!

Riding style was riding strictly below 40kmph upto first 200kms. 40-45 next 100-150kms... and now since last 50kms I'm riding between 45-50kmph. Intend to use her in this range till the "Running-In" period.

Manual says running-in range to be 500km, but I'd rather stick to riding 'decently' till around 800-900kms. Oh yes, first oil change at 180kms or so.

Average figures should change as the bike grows "older"

Did talked to a shock-absorber guy regarding the stiff ride. I wanted to replace the rear shocks with some other. But, the mechanic told that stock ones are doing a pretty decent job! (checked by locking brakes, pushing the bike to-fro to see the spring travel & damping on both ends). He told me, in fact Bajaj ones are no good and people change to HH shocks. Honda should be better was his logic!

Asked me which bike I was using previously? Answer (Yezdi RK, Unicorn, P150) put smile on his face and he told me 'you'll get used to it' and advised me not to change the shocks

Should get a 'second opinion' for her from another doc

Am also "getting used to" the toe shifter, but false neutrals are making life bit hard.

Will keep updating,
Ride Safe!!
Warm Regards,
Abu

Hi psr ji n Abu ji,
Guess both of you are online. I have few queries. Can you address them...
1. Can I fill nitrogen into my Twister's tubeless tires?

2. My bike stands in an open parking space with no shed and coz its rainy season here, it gets wet everyday. Is that injurious to my bike. Should I get a bike cover from ebay or somewhere?

3. Honda parts are not available here in Bhubaneswar. Any suggestions as to what shall I do?

4. Can I fit a new iridium spark plug from NGK now? My bike has done 3500kms approx.

TIA!

replies in bold.

well no bike starts without that choke thing in the morning.....what i said is put choke and one kick rarely 2 kick enough it starts....

tyre pressure for front and back?????