Hi maadyy&akash

I've changed the tyres. I chose Michelin pilot sporty 120/80-17.

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Hi Akash,

Thank You for your suggestion. I took the bike this weekend and they made some adjustments to the pads, out of stupidity, I forgot to ask what exactly he did. The wobbling from front wheel is now gone, I dont know for how long. He checked both the tyre and said they are fitter correctly. But after few km of ride, the wobbling started cropping up but was not so intense as previously. Took it to local mech and said that the drive chain-sprocket kit needs to be changed which he changed for 900. Still, there was not improvement in the ride.

Right now, I have loosened a little but the chain tension originally set by mechanic. Lets see if things improve or not.

About your questions :
1. Bike is about 6.5 years old, had run 77000 km. UG3 model.
2. Tyres threads and patters are OK as of now, they are about 16000 km old and may run another 9000 km; but I am planning to change them early but not because of this issue.

Thanks for the detailed info with pics,
But removing that guard + chain cover doesn't fit my taste, i'll take pulsar 180 instead
Thanks

Is MRF VYDE available in 100 size ?

Hi maadyy&akash

I've changed the tyres. I chose Michelin pilot sporty 120/80-17.

Sent from my Micromax A110 using Tapatalk

I hope you know what backfire is.
Backfiring means unburnt fuel is getting past the exhaust valves and it's burning or exploding in the exhaust system. With freeflow exhaust system, the exhaust system can't keep proper back pressure which can cause exhaust valves to go gaga. If this is the case you'll need to change valves mate.

There's one more thing you can do meanwhile, you could try disconnecting or dimounting the reed switch which is mounted on the right side of carb. It turns on off by the input of the magnet located on throttle body. Just get it away from that magnet. I have a very light hunch that this may change the situation for while.

Hi Akash,

Thank You for your suggestion. I took the bike this weekend and they made some adjustments to the pads, out of stupidity, I forgot to ask what exactly he did. The wobbling from front wheel is now gone, I dont know for how long. He checked both the tyre and said they are fitter correctly. But after few km of ride, the wobbling started cropping up but was not so intense as previously. Took it to local mech and said that the drive chain-sprocket kit needs to be changed which he changed for 900. Still, there was not improvement in the ride.

Right now, I have loosened a little but the chain tension originally set by mechanic. Lets see if things improve or not.

About your questions :
1. Bike is about 6.5 years old, had run 77000 km. UG3 model.
2. Tyres threads and patters are OK as of now, they are about 16000 km old and may run another 9000 km; but I am planning to change them early but not because of this issue.

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Hi Akash,

Thank You for your suggestion. I took the bike this weekend and they made some adjustments to the pads, out of stupidity, I forgot to ask what exactly he did. The wobbling from front wheel is now gone, I dont know for how long. He checked both the tyre and said they are fitter correctly. But after few km of ride, the wobbling started cropping up but was not so intense as previously. Took it to local mech and said that the drive chain-sprocket kit needs to be changed which he changed for 900. Still, there was not improvement in the ride.

Right now, I have loosened a little but the chain tension originally set by mechanic. Lets see if things improve or not.

About your questions :
1. Bike is about 6.5 years old, had run 77000 km. UG3 model.
2. Tyres threads and patters are OK as of now, they are about 16000 km old and may run another 9000 km; but I am planning to change them early but not because of this issue.

No problems mate
By the way, did you cut/remove the chain cover to fit the 120 section tyre? Reason being, there is not much space left between the tyre wall and the chain guard with factory 100 section tyre. The tyre you chose is tubeless or tube type?

its tubeless, no I did not remove the chain guard. It fit perfectly.

Bro provide your feedback soon.

It fit perfectly. Had no problems. But there is a screeching noise when I brake. I changed the brake shoe. Before there was no noise. The mechanic who changed the shoe blamed the new Tyre and said the shoe will adjust on it's own to the Tyre. Is this true. He tried adjusting the wheel alignment to eliminate the noise which made the Tyre touch the chain guard. So he changed it again. Also I felt the Rims heated when I parked at my office. Does this happen .

There can be two reasons for the sound:

1. tyre being new and upgraded the brake shoe is generating the noise. The same happened with me when I changed to 130 section rear tyre from 100. Also if the rear brake is tightened in that case also a different sound will come. but in both this cases mentioned the sound will come when you brake.

2. The tyre wall might be rubbing with chain guard or swing arm. Check Tyre wall for that.

Note: I believe in your case point 1 is applicable. You can try loose the rear brake a little by yourself and check if you get the sound during breaking. Anyways it is not a point of worry. Your braking must have been better now.

I'll do what you suggested for the noise. But why is the rim getting heated up?

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Rim heating up is normal upto certain level. Even my doea travelling for around 15km at a temp of around 30 35 degree. What's your riding condition?

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I'm riding 10 km up and down.

Okay you can wait for 3-4 days and watch it , I think it's because of all new fitments. After loosing the rear brakes a little ride for some kilometers and watch if it is heating up a lot. I have never experienced earlier whether it used to heat up at the front or rear with factory settings but now I did and they do heat up to some level. Well I kept the rear brake pretty hard.