CBZ xtreme / Hunk

[abhisheklalnediya]

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Does changing the oil changes the sound of the engine?

I changed from 10w30 to 20w40 castrol last day

Now the bass of the engine is gone, a tic tic sound is heard on each fire.
should I go to some mech and check it out?

I good thing is all vibration are gone.

[Madness]

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Can someone help me understand if I can use Motul 300V 4T Factory Line 10W40 in hero honda hunk.

what would be the difference between Motul 300V 4T Factory Line 10W40, 7100 4T 10W-40 and 5100 4T 10W30.

Currently, my Hunk has completed 19,000KMS of running.

[sinnerz2000]

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Can someone help me understand if I can use Motul 300V 4T Factory Line 10W40 in hero honda hunk.

what would be the difference between Motul 300V 4T Factory Line 10W40, 7100 4T 10W-40 and 5100 4T 10W30.

Currently, my Hunk has completed 19,000KMS of running.

You can use that on your bike, the difference between 300v and 7100 is not much since they're both FS oils, the 5100 is SS oil.

Sent from my K-touch_w650_592zn using Tapatalk 4 Beta

[riazmomin]

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Guys, avoid trying heavy engine oils in your bikes. Heavy engine oils are not good for crankcase. On prolonged usage you will feel the vibrations, low mileage and finally bike not happy.

[Madness]

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

does that mean I should go with mineral oil.

Also, what if I mix mineral with synth. Will that make difference.

[RohIIT]

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

You can get any semi synth for hunk or extreme , Gulf, Veedol have very good semisynth 10w30 . You can try minerals too , but semisynth are better .

[riazmomin]

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

does that mean I should go with mineral oil.

Also, what if I mix mineral with synth. Will that make difference.

Any 10w30 is fine. But I highly reccomend gulf

[abhisheklalnediya]

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Hi friends I am hearing tick tick noice from the right side.
on nutral, engine sounds good,
Also on 1~2 gears, no problem when rev freely on center stand

but on road, when I acclerated on 1, 2, 3 gears and rpm near 2.5 ~ 4 , I can hear this tick tick sound.
sound is like 2 sheet metals loose and vibrating
The sound disappers after 4000 rpm

I think the sound comes when the load increases, heavy accleration.
the sound increases when climbing.

What could be the problem.

I am confused whome I trust,
Today I went to a SVC which they say its run by hero itself but from the behaviour of mechs there I under sood they are not experienced.
Solution they have is change give it a service, an oil change.
But I changed oil my self and cleaned filter, adjusted chain from a local mech last friday.

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

does changing oil grade voids the warrenty?

[sinnerz2000]

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Hi friends I am hearing tick tick noice from the right side.
on nutral, engine sounds good,
Also on 1~2 gears, no problem when rev freely on center stand

but on road, when I acclerated on 1, 2, 3 gears and rpm near 2.5 ~ 4 , I can hear this tick tick sound.
sound is like 2 sheet metals loose and vibrating
The sound disappers after 4000 rpm

I think the sound comes when the load increases, heavy accleration.
the sound increases when climbing.

What could be the problem.

I am confused whome I trust,
Today I went to a SVC which they say its run by hero itself but from the behaviour of mechs there I under sood they are not experienced.
Solution they have is change give it a service, an oil change.
But I changed oil my self and cleaned filter, adjusted chain from a local mech last friday.

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

does changing oil grade voids the warrenty?

I also am getting the same sound on idling, while riding its not there. U can use any oil you like they can not find out the grade of a used oil.

Sent from my K-touch_w650_592zn using Tapatalk 4 Beta

[riazmomin]

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Hi friends I am hearing tick tick noice from the right side.
on nutral, engine sounds good,
Also on 1~2 gears, no problem when rev freely on center stand

but on road, when I acclerated on 1, 2, 3 gears and rpm near 2.5 ~ 4 , I can hear this tick tick sound.
sound is like 2 sheet metals loose and vibrating
The sound disappers after 4000 rpm

I think the sound comes when the load increases, heavy accleration.
the sound increases when climbing.

What could be the problem.

I am confused whome I trust,
Today I went to a SVC which they say its run by hero itself but from the behaviour of mechs there I under sood they are not experienced.
Solution they have is change give it a service, an oil change.
But I changed oil my self and cleaned filter, adjusted chain from a local mech last friday.

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

does changing oil grade voids the warrenty?

I also am getting the same sound on idling, while riding its not there. U can use any oil you like they can not find out the grade of a used oil.

Sent from my K-touch_w650_592zn using Tapatalk 4 Beta

If it sounds like some sewing machine, it is probably loose tappets. They need to be adjusted by good hands.

[abhisheklalnediya]

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

If it sounds like some sewing machine, it is probably loose tappets. They need to be adjusted by good hands.

Loose tappet sound will be from top of the engine?
and the sound will be heard on idle also?

here
its from the right side, its either related to silencer or someting near clutch cable. and on idle ther is no problem.

I think its related to engine oil because when it becomes hot, after a 20+ km , the sound changes.

What will be he cause of "phew" "phew" sound when the engine is cold? is it miss fire or a worn out spark plug?
I never thouht a change in oil grade makes this much difference.

[riazmomin]

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Loose tappet sound will be from top of the engine?
and the sound will be heard on idle also?

here
its from the right side, its either related to silencer or someting near clutch cable. and on idle ther is no problem.

I think its related to engine oil because when it becomes hot, after a 20+ km , the sound changes.

What will be he cause of "phew" "phew" sound when the engine is cold? is it miss fire or a worn out spark plug?
I never thouht a change in oil grade makes this much difference.

Oops! I misinterpreted your post. Apologies.

[nishesh.kumar]

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Hi All,
My Xtreme (ODO-28 K) was consuming engine oil since last 6 months. I had to top up with 200-250 ml of engine oil after every 800 Kms.
Ultimately, I became fed-up with this thing, since the mileage also decreased from 45 to 38 KMPL along with engine oil consumption.
Then, I consulted PSR Sir, who listened to my problem and suggested to go for new cylinder kit, instead of ring replacement.

So, today morning I visited my trusted mechanic. After inspecting the bore, he also suggested to go for complete kit, as the old rings were busted and there was gap between the rings and bore which was more than the service limit. He also told that re-boring jobs are cost-efficient, but success rate is low due to faulty workmanship of lathe guys. He also suggested to change the Valves and Valve seal. Valve guides were fine, since no play was found.

Then, I went to the famous Karol Bagh Market, and purchased following parts;
1. Original Cylinder Std. Kit (Part No. 21K180S)
2. Valve set (USHA)
3. Valve steam seals (Part No. 12209-GB4-685)
4. NGK CPR8EA9 Spark plug
5. Gulf Pride 4T 10w30 engine oil

I returned to my mechanic @ 04:00 PM. He sent one of his worker with the cylinder head and new valves to lathe workshop for re-seating of valves.
In the meanwhile, he installed the new kit, and after 30 minutes his worker returned. Then he installed the head and checked the valve clearance along with tappet adjustment.
At 05:30 PM, my bike was ready

@ PSR Sir: I am really thankful for your guidance. You listened to all the problems very patiently, and I must admit that all this thing couldn't have been so smooth and trouble free without your guidance. Thanks a lot Sir...

Now a few queries from my side;
1. Should I follow a run-in for 500 Kms, to allow the new bore to settle (My mechanic told that there is no need to follow any run-in )
2. When should I change the current engine oil. (Early or after usual interval of 1800-2000 Kms)

Attached are a few snaps of the replaced parts.

[sibun]

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

[MENTION=22701]nishesh[/MENTION]- Run-in for a 1000 km. 500 is less, for better engine life run-in for 1000 km.

[psr]

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Then, I went to the famous Karol Bagh Market, and purchased following parts;
1. Original Cylinder Std. Kit (Part No. 21K180S)
2. Valve set (USHA)
3. Valve steam seals (Part No. 12209-GB4-685)
4. NGK CPR8EA9 Spark plug

5. Gulf Pride 4T 10w30 engine oil

I returned to my mechanic @ 04:00 PM. He sent one of his worker with the cylinder head and new valves to lathe workshop for re-seating of valves.
In the meanwhile, he installed the new kit, and after 30 minutes his worker returned. Then he installed the head and checked the valve clearance along with tappet adjustment.
At 05:30 PM, my bike was ready

@ PSR Sir: I am really thankful for your guidance. You listened to all the problems very patiently, and I must admit that all this thing couldn't have been so smooth and trouble free without your guidance. Thanks a lot Sir...

Now a few queries from my side;
1. Should I follow a run-in for 500 Kms, to allow the new bore to settle (My mechanic told that there is no need to follow any run-in )
2. When should I change the current engine oil. (Early or after usual interval of 1800-2000 Kms)

Attached are a few snaps of the replaced parts.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]114037[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]114038[/ATTACH]

Good to see that you have gone ahead with the change of bore and piston kit....and not too soon...your piston shows that there has been leak of compression and the Piston was touching the cylinder.....look at the second image of the piston wherein you can see the dark deposits shaved off at periodic spacing, and the Piston Aluminum body looks New due to possible contact with bore...
The run in is 500 kms and done with varying RPM in different gears, just like run in of a new engine...restrict speed to 60Kmph on final gear and 4.5 K RPM in any gear...while accelerating,be gentle and don't do any sudden acceleration...you should have used a 15W or 20 W 40 mineral oil for better setting in...anyway drain the present oil at 500 Kms and fill with mineral oil for the next 1,000 Kms ( odo reading1,500Kms total)...
Remember to warm up engine before acceleration,and be gentle.
For the first 1,000 kms you must vary RPM and gearing and avoid constant throttle,or long journeys.....Try acceleration and, deceleration without pulling in the clutch while slowing down...engine braking helps in better sealing of rings...You can occasionally take the RPM to 6 K till 500 Kms, and to 7 K till next 1,000 Kms...
Good Luck...