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Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)
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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)
The thing is.. I never asked anyone to tune the engine lean. I even insisted on tuning it correctly at the svc and not for mileage. I haven't yet learnt the art of tuning the engine and hence I have to get the aid of other mechanics. But everyone I went to simply says bike is ok. They listen to their heads and not the bike. Btw, I plan on adjusting tappets on my own. What tools are required for tappet adjustments on p180 and what are the clearance values? Timing chain, as said by svc, seems ok but I do hear some clinching sounds when idling after a good run. These sounds were present from the beginning.. I'll try to learn the tuning soon. When tuning, I raise the engine speed to around 3k rpm but the rpm fluctuates in a rhythmic manner and is never steady. This irritates a lot and prevents me from getting a proper tune of engine. Is that normal?Originally posted by mehuel View Post
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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)
Just try and find a good mechanic outside to set the correct idle on the carb.Originally posted by John P Daniel View PostThe thing is.. I never asked anyone to tune the engine lean. I even insisted on tuning it correctly at the svc and not for mileage. I haven't yet learnt the art of tuning the engine and hence I have to get the aid of other mechanics. But everyone I went to simply says bike is ok. They listen to their heads and not the bike. Btw, I plan on adjusting tappets on my own. What tools are required for tappet adjustments on p180 and what are the clearance values? Timing chain, as said by svc, seems ok but I do hear some clinching sounds when idling after a good run. These sounds were present from the beginning.. I'll try to learn the tuning soon. When tuning, I raise the engine speed to around 3k rpm but the rpm fluctuates in a rhythmic manner and is never steady. This irritates a lot and prevents me from getting a proper tune of engine. Is that normal?
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But if you want to DIY, just check first how many turns is the volume control screw turned. last i remembered you mentioned it to be around half to one and a half. can you please confirm whats the count now?
As for Valve clearance .5 inlet and .10 exhaust is what is recommended in the manual and works perfectly fine. some additional tools required would be the tappet holder, feeler gauges and preferably a ring spanner not sure about the size but i guess its 7/8 and a socket wrench to move the crank and set the cams in tdc before you start working. its a rather lenghty process but easy one, if you like i can post the DIY with some pics here. or you can follow service manual. IMHO i would recommend you not to go this way and just work on getting the carb working
Now the timing chain, leave it as it is for now aswell.
Posting some pics of the feeler gauge and tappet t holder
Ps: those pics are old ones from r15, thus the 4 valves. for pulsar there is no need to open the head cover. thus making the process a lot simpler.Last edited by mehuel; 05-31-2015, 10:52 AM.
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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)
The af screw was retuned by svc and is now at 1.75 turns. I have tuned it to around 2.75-3.0 and now bike seems happy but I do smell petrol when idling.Originally posted by mehuel View PostJust try and find a good mechanic outside to set the correct idle on the carb.
But if you want to DIY, just check first how many turns is the volume control screw turned. last i remembered you mentioned it to be around half to one and a half. can you please confirm whats the count now?
0.5 and 0.1 mm for inlet and exhaust valves..right? I heard tdc can be brought by removing spark plug and rotating rear tyre in gear. Is that possible? Is the tappet holder necessary? I mean, mechanic used a small spanner and plier to adjust the tappets on my bro's A180. Is that ok? And the engine must be dead cold when adjusting tappets..As for Valve clearance .5 inlet and .10 exhaust is what is recommended in the manual and works perfectly fine. some additional tools required would be the tappet holder, feeler gauges and preferably a ring spanner not sure about the size but i guess its 7/8 and a socket wrench to move the crank and set the cams in tdc before you start working. its a rather lenghty process but easy one, if you like i can post the DIY with some pics here. or you can follow service manual. IMHO i would recommend you not to go this way and just work on getting the carb working
A pic on where to use the feeler gauge would be useful as I'm not sure where to place and use the guage on the tappet mechanism.Now the timing chain, leave it as it is for now aswell.
Posting some pics of the feeler gauge and tappet t holder
Ps: those pics are old ones from r15, thus the 4 valves. for pulsar there is no need to open the head cover. thus making the process a lot simpler.
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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)
thats the way to go in my experience, it should resolve the issue. tune id down to 2.5 turns and keep it like this for a 100 km or so and notice the difference. do post the pic of the plug after 100- 200 kmsOriginally posted by John P Daniel View PostThe af screw was retuned by svc and is now at 1.75 turns. I have tuned it to around 2.75-3.0 and now bike seems happy but I do smell petrol when idling.
yes its one way to go but i would advice you not to. to be honest if the engine is performing fine there is absolutely no need to touch the tappets as of right now.Originally posted by John P Daniel View Post0.5 and 0.1 mm for inlet and exhaust valves..right? I heard tdc can be brought by removing spark plug and rotating rear tyre in gear. Is that possible? Is the tappet holder necessary? I mean, mechanic used a small spanner and plier to adjust the tappets on my bro's A180. Is that ok? And the engine must be dead cold when adjusting tappets..
I'll try to post a complete DIY in 2-3 days time with pics and allOriginally posted by John P Daniel View PostA pic on where to use the feeler gauge would be useful as I'm not sure where to place and use the guage on the tappet mechanism.
till then just concentrate on carb.
CheersLast edited by mehuel; 05-31-2015, 11:26 AM.
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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)
I will check with the af screw as you said bro. As you said, I'll leave the tappets now as I think it can go longer before requiring any adjustments. Take your time bro. The bike can wait. Do tell the tools used in the DIY though..Originally posted by mehuel View Postthats the way to go in my experience, it should resolve the issue. tune id down to 2.5 turns and keep it like this for a 100 km or so and notice the difference. do post the pic of the plug after 100- 200 kms
yes its one way to go but i would advice you not to. to be honest if the engine is performing fine there is absolutely no need to touch the tappets as of right now.
I'll try to post a complete DIY in 2-3 days time with pics and all
till then just concentrate on carb.
Cheers
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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)
I suspect you might have worn out clutch plates along with wrong valve clearances. also get the carb cleaned and adjusted correctly (if you are unsure of the no. of turns, then just set it to what another bike in the showroom has and then make fine adjustments). normally 1.5~2 turns is apt.Originally posted by John P Daniel View PostHi everyone.. The bike was serviced few days back and mileage returned is again at around 40 for city(sane) riding. Symptoms -idle unsteady, single tappet sound(it sounds like one valve is making noise), bike struggles with pillion on uphill rides(more struggle than normal), engine rpm raises gradual to throttle input.
Engine is not rev happy as it was earlier. When throttle is held at a position, engine revs rise gradually to reach the specified rpm. Also, more throttle is necessary to maintain speeds. Any pointers to the issue?
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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)
Clutch plate wear should lead to cvt like pickup. The problem is that the bike takes time to rev up to necessary rpm. Clearances will be checked by myself soon. I don't think svc uses guage to set clearances. Carb is now at around 2.5-3 turns(forgot exact turns) and the idle seems a whole lot better. Also, performance seems way better. I'll check spark plugs after around 100 kms and report back. One doubt though..when I raise the rpm when tuning the carb, the idle was raising and falling in a periodic manner like a waveform. Tuned the bike where the oscillation was minimal and now idle is near steady. Is it normal?Originally posted by s1d View PostI suspect you might have worn out clutch plates along with wrong valve clearances. also get the carb cleaned and adjusted correctly (if you are unsure of the no. of turns, then just set it to what another bike in the showroom has and then make fine adjustments). normally 1.5~2 turns is apt.
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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)
yes, that is how a carb behaves as you adjust the fuel screw.. it needs to be approx at the point where the rpm drops n just begins to rise.Originally posted by John P Daniel View PostOne doubt though..when I raise the rpm when tuning the carb, the idle was raising and falling in a periodic manner like a waveform. Tuned the bike where the oscillation was minimal and now idle is near steady. Is it normal?
i'd say don't fiddle with the carb unless you know what your doing. like i said the safe bet is to look at another stock bike and set yours to a similar setting.
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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)
The engine rpm varies like a wave even if I don't adjust the af screw. Raised rpm to around 3000 rpm and engine was moving in periodical wave manner between 2000-4000rpm even when I didn't touch the af screw. Now the screw is placed where the oscillation is minimal.Originally posted by s1d View Postyes, that is how a carb behaves as you adjust the fuel screw.. it needs to be approx at the point where the rpm drops n just begins to rise.
i'd say don't fiddle with the carb unless you know what your doing. like i said the safe bet is to look at another stock bike and set yours to a similar setting.
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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)
Hi everyone, after 100kms of near sane riding, reached 42kmpl. But I did find something different in the air box(in pic). Is this a cause of concern? Vacuum leaks??
The sparks colour remains more or less the same, except for little tan colour of the electrodes.
Right spark plug
Left spark plug
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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)
to begin with the spark plug looks good,Originally posted by John P Daniel View PostHi everyone, after 100kms of near sane riding, reached 42kmpl. But I did find something different in the air box(in pic). Is this a cause of concern? Vacuum leaks??
The sparks colour remains more or less the same, except for little tan colour of the electrodes.
Right spark plug
Left spark plug
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now for that air box, well it looks as of its cracked, correct me if i am wrong.
if it is cracked, that is a major concern, and a cause of worry. not only is the carb getting more air than its suppose to but also its getting a continuous feed of unfiltered air, it will harm the engine. need less to say thats why the engine was running lean,
its best that you to replace the airfilter box immidiatly, if its not available at the sevice center order one and in the meantime get it fixed. temporary fix will be to use Mseal or some other alternative. fewiKwik wont work.
P.S: though i dont think there is a need to adjust valve clearance now, and you should get the airbox fixed first. but i'll still post the DIY. have been really busy of late. will post it this week.
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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)
I think you are referring to the gap between air duct hose and air box. No need to buy a new air box. Air box and duct hose are two different parts. Just stick the hose to the air box using fevibond and you are done. From factory also it is sticked using some rubber adhesive.Originally posted by John P Daniel View PostWhy would fevikwik fail for this? What about rubber based solutions? I'll source it and fix the box soon. This would mean I should retune the carb..right?
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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)
In that case, I'll get rubber based solution soon for fixing it. This bike sure has a strong heart. Should I retune the bike after this?Originally posted by Jith_in View PostI think you are referring to the gap between air duct hose and air box. No need to buy a new air box. Air box and duct hose are two different parts. Just stick the hose to the air box using fevibond and you are done. From factory also it is sticked using some rubber adhesive.
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