re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Ok , i will begin with problems i was facing from past 1 month .

1. Bike wont start without choke , even if does the idle is 900 and shuts off after 2-3 secs .
2. When bike gets warm idle shoots to 1500, after a ripping session it is 1700.
3. idling is imperfect and non even. I was sure that tuning is perfect as it is same as before at 1.8 turns

Now the engine oil i was using from past 5K ( two cans ) as AX7 which i thought would be sufficient as Indian Summers take a toll on our bikes , i was right but partially. AX7 caused loads of other problems with the bike

1. Post 5k punch was gone , it felt like i am driving a bike with weared clutch .
2. Idling issue was elevated.
3. Sluggish response of throttle
4. No evident benefit of this oil.

So after long long discussion with [MENTION=14414]shoeb[/MENTION] and [MENTION=28527]sibun[/MENTION] , it was first confirmed that bike has an vaccum leak. Vaccum leak develops when unmeterd air enter to engine disrupting the AFR and making mix lean , classic symtoms
1. Big difference in idiling
2. idling isnt constant keeps on "looping or Hunting " within 1500-1200
3. With engine getting warm idle shoots to 1800
4. Erratic and notchy gearshift

Now after investigating the issue , we tried to solve it, first i took out carb halfway and cleaned the insulator and refit. But no avail , still condition was same.
Then shoeb told to use a sealant , Anabond RTV gasket maker silicone sealant costs 40/- , damn useful thing. i applied a light layer on carb lip and some on insulator inner wall , Even coating ensured sealant seals nicely .

Sitting unused the water evaporated and condensed on piston of carb , showing some water or remnants of fuel evaporated from float




Kept carb untouched for 45-60 min and then started bike, idle was better but not the best . Called up sibun and explained entire issue , he suggested to change oil first and then tune the mix.

Bought Hero oil bottle , most reviews for this oil are - "crap, cheap,waste etc" , but just get the oil manufactured by Tide water company or even Savita make is good. Tide water oil is best VFM oil i found till date, No doubt [MENTION=49443]BloggingWheels[/MENTION], [MENTION=28527]sibun[/MENTION] [MENTION=14414]shoeb[/MENTION] continually used this brand, it is underrated while it performs the best in its range. I change oil when i feel engine is getting rough irrespective of kms done , this oil is cost effective as it can do 15-2000 kms easily ,

The newer batches of oil by Tide water have MRP of 250/- which one can get for as low as 200/- thats 20% discount




Went for a 60km drive and instantly felt the difference , the punch was back , nail throttle after 70K , speedo shows 90. Its that fast. 10w30 is the ONLY AND ONLY USABLE grade for extreme/hunk , 10w40 is only feasible if one rides 80-100km at high speeds in hard summer sun , even then a semi synth 10w30 will hold. Now at full throttle + leaning speedo showed 109kmph , means still AFR wasnt perfect , i revved to 6k at neutral and observed tacho , needle came down slowly , this difference can be told only when one has seen this behavior when AFR was perfect, the stick comes down faster and revs equally fast

After the ride i tuned carb from 1.5 turns and at 1.9-2 turns it rpm needle was at highest . Even now rpm needle at idling varies by 50-100 rpm or so which is acceptable.

A pic from today's test ride.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Hey man I'm having the same problem here
My bike has been showing the exact same symptoms

When I raise the idle to about 1,500 RPM dieseling occurs and the revs come down slowly.
But it dips fine from high revs to about 4,000 RPM after that it hangs and drops slowly
However when idle is set below that near 1,000 RPM it's fine then and the revs come down normally.
Also it is noticeable in hot engine only

Things that i have checked-
Rubber boots connecting carburetor(For vacuum leaks)
Spark Plugs
Cleaned and re-tuned the carburetor
Engine compression is good
Choke mechanism is fine and the plunger in the carburetor is free
Accelerator cable and the butterfly valve(They are smooth and do not feel jammed)

I even cleaned the carburetor yesterday
The float bowl was opened for the first time in 20,000 KMS(I tried to open it about a year ago but the screw head slipped so I left it)


This was after cleaning-
Do the jets look fine ???


At first i thought carburetor overhaul will solve it.
But when i assembled it yesterday the problem was still there.

Will running the bike in this condition damage the piston rings???
Help me out here guys....

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Hi all,
There is slight chain problem after servicing, chain slackness is ok but i think chain alignment is wrong. There is tight band in wheel also when rotating manually, service centre guys says its OK. but bike not runs freely and feeling of slight grinding noise from chain. Bike acceleration is not smooth. i want to correct it myself.

Second problem is rear drum brake stopping power is almost zero, how to rectify it.





A/C to this AFR chart, My bike AFR is towards best economy (between lean and ideal setting) but i am not getting best economy only getting 40 under sedate driving. I want to know that in which situation i get good mileage
a) Afr toward best economy (lean mixture)
b) Afr towards ideal mixture (but how i get good mileage as i know carb getting more fuel than lean mixture)

Bike has ran 3500 KMS

Thanks

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Today I tried to tune my bike as said by sibun dada. But while tuning I noticed that the engine revs faster after tuning when I removed my thumb from the air intake hole. But before tuning it turned off while doing the same thing. Whats the reason? And what is the stock setting of afr screw?

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

From the brass nozzle do not remove finger or engine will either die or rev up suddenly . One thing you can try is removing the other end of pipe , which will keep hand away from engine , as during tuning engine can get hot enough to cause burns. Turn afr screw 1/6th at a time and wait for 8-9 secs after which engine will respond , also when rpm starts to rise be more precise in turning afr and notice when rpm needle drops , the drop will be 100-200 rpm max. The stock setting is 1.75 to 2 turns , it varies from bike to bike depending upon altitude conditions.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Mechanics are still in their old age engines while technology has developed a lot with years. If that would have been the case then let me tell you that when my Joy crank was making sound, i used 15W 50 oil and still the sound is same. It is a myth that thicker oil protects engine better. But rather than thicker oil go for oil that has higher viscosity index. If company recommends 10W 30 then follow that.

Believe me as i have experimented with 10W40, 20W 40 and all oils in extreme. And 10W 30 is best for extreme and all other oils come with some other problems.

Nothing to worry as during cold starts oil has not gone to head and thus the sound. Previously you were using thick oil, so the problem is due to that. Continue using 10W 30 for some days and the problem will go.

Come on man how much you have mentioned me. I couldn't help you much as i was not near you. But had you listened to my words and changed the oil first then you wouldn't have faced the problem that you are facing. I had always told you when you have called me that change to 10 W 30 oil and most problems will go.
And that thing of idling varying by 50 rpm is common when bike gets old. The reason for this is that four stroke engines have one power stroke in four strokes. So the crank balances the idling with flywheel. AS engine gets older the engine gets free and thus responds quickly to changes in throttle and power. So as engine gets older you see the rpm varying by 50 rpm as bike is responding quicker due to engine being free.

Also the extreme tachometer is very sensitive as i have seen when when i leave the accelerator the needle will fall a little and when i suddenly give throttle the needle will suddenly jump when bike will give jerk.

Your pilot jet is running little lean which is causing the rpm to hang a little from below 4000 rpm. you can tune the carburettor by my method and after you have obtained the idle to highest point, then decrease the idle to 1400 rpm by idling screw and then richen the mixture such that idle decreases by 100 rpm. Then decrease the idle to 1000 rpm to set the idling.

Basically the steps are the following:-

1. Warm up the engine by riding 5 kms.
2. Increase the idle to 3000 rpm by idling screw.
3. Now adjust the fuel screw most probably by line tester as it is small, turning 1/16th of a turn and waiting for the engine to respond.
4. Get the highest idling beyond which engine will decrease revs further turning in any direction.
5. Now decrease the idle to 1400 rpm by idling screw.
6. Now richen the mixture such that idling falls to 1300 rpm. Or in other words idling decreases by 100 rpm.
7. Now set the idle to 1000 rpm by idling screw. Your problem will go.
Follow the steps and do update me about your progress.


Chain slack should always be adjusted by checking the tightest point in the link. Where the chain should be tight, from that point adjust such that chain shoul have 1 inch of play. For alignment check both side adjustment have same .

FOr brakes center the brakes by loosening the axle nut, and then rotate the wheel at high speed and press the brake hard and wheel stops with a thud. Then Keeping the pedal pressed, tighten the axle nut and brake will be back to full power.

And i have repeated many times that lean mixture doesn't mean your bike will give more mileage, because your engine will loose out on torque and you have to twist more throttle to get power. Always the right mixture gives best power and mileage. [MENTION=29088]shar[/MENTION]iharextreme has seen it practically as i have advised him to tune the carburettor according to my process and even though he has richened the mixture then also his mileage increased.

I am sorry that i replied late as was busy in some work. Hope most of doubts are cleared. If something is there then you can ask.
[MENTION=51992]ashislakra1989[/MENTION]- Bro your bike is leaking compression from what i have diagnosed. So during the Ganesh Puja holidays, you can come and i will help in opening the head and cleaning the head and polishing the valves. Will also adjust the valves to company specs.

Bike will fly, so do not worry.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Okay buddy thanks for the quick reply,I'll tune it by your method...
Meanwhile I also took some snaps of the choke mechanism

It looks fine right??

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

The 10w 30 4t premium from Veedol is much better than Tide water HH oil as its a bit thicker but still bike can maintain 65-70kph easily. I now think my bike can do 65-70 kph all day as there were less vibes and engine didn't seem strained much.. Very happy with oil. Thanks to you I hoped every thing would get sorted in one visit to bbsr, but didn't happen. But I'll come on Ganesh puja holidays and hope my bike bring more smiles per km.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Hello Friends,

Its 5100 kms on odo. There is some oil strains on right side fork where as left side fork is clean. Cleaned right side fork thrice but re-appeared. Is it any serious issue...should i need to change fork oil or seal etc.?
Also now i am looking forward to use SS oil after 6000km. which oil should i use..? VEEDOL swift or SHELL AX7. Both are 10w40 grade as opposed to our recommended oil grade 10w30. Will it have any adverse affect. Right now using VEEDOL take off 4t 2nd time. 1st feel up at 2000 km & 2nd feel up at 4000 km.
What will be average drain period for SS oil. How about MOTUL 5100 10w30, as i read on some back pages, one fellow XBHPian used same. Will it suitable for our xtreme?
Kindly advice.

Thanx in advance.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk



If the oil is appearing again and again after wiping then yes the right side fork seals are gone, nothing serious right now but get the seals and oil changed, plus when you go for the right side seal change then change left side seal and oil also as this way both of the forks will work in the same manner, dismantle forks inner parts completely and wash the parts properly with petrol and the wipe them with clean cloth from outside and from the inside.


You can change to ss oil Veedol oil is quite a good oil, but why are you changing the grade of oil to 10w40, hero prescribes 10w30 and i think you should stick to the prescribed grade, thicker oil will create more resistance inside the engine because of which you will feel bike sluggish plus less mileage, 10w40 is only recommended if you are using the bike in intense heat, with most of the time high speed running, like 80 to 90 km/h other than that i would suggest you not to play with the grade mentioned by the company,as far the draining period is concerned for ss oil, it should be between 3000 to 4000kms.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

@vickyrealcool

Thanks for this photo, really good one. My next ride will be a closed-loop FI


One of the source : http://www.g33.co.uk/fuel_injection.htm nice pages

I feel a carburettor equipped bike/scooter can't maintain particular AFR through out the throttle positions.

Won't wheel alignment take a hit in some cases where brake shoes have worn uneven(if at all)?

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Actually i ride bike most of the times on highways only, that too on weekend. weekdays no biking. Also average speed remains around 70-90 km/hr, that is the reason i was thinking to change to SS Oil after 6000 kms.
Also if i change only seals of fork, the problem will get solved of not..? As its too early (just 5000 Kms) to open fork & change oil
My current average is as below
If ridden sedately: 52+ kmpl & if ridden in 70-90 with little burst to 100-115 km/l..average drops to 40-43 kmpl.
Is this fine or should i go Carb tuning as per SIBUN`s tuning method as he claims mileage as 50 if ridden in 70-90 km/hr & 55 to 60 kmpl if ridden sedately.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

I would also suggest to stick manufacturer oil recommendation, but 10W40 can be usable in your case, as you gonna ride it on 80-100 kms on most of the time, engine will heat pretty much in summers and about the fork, 5000 kms is too early to change the oil, see if leakage of fork oil is very very less than you can wait till few more thousand kms and then change the oil seal and fork oil both, but if it is not very very less, then don't change the fork oil, just change the both oil seal...

And you are getting very good FE, I am getting somewhere 35-40 while in speeding more than 90, I only get good FE more than 40 if I ride below 70-60 KMPH...

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk




You can change to SS oil your ride will get more smoother.

Leaking problem of the forks will get solved once you change the oil seal, kms has nothing to do with a problem, its a machine and anything can happen at any time so don't get hassled by the kms, i have seen new bikes with just 500kms on the odo with engine problems, just make sure to clean up the forks properly before putting new seals, as these mechanics don't want to take paint of cleaning the forks.

You can tune the way sibun has mentioned for checking the difference, little bursts of 100 - 115 km will use more fuel, only if you are riding continuously in 70 to 90 range one will be able to get this 50km/l mileage, i feel your current mileage is also quite good, what is the colour of the plug and how is the response of the throttle.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Hii friends yesterday tuned carb according to sibun's guide and got a tuning of 1.85 turns. Bike is damm smooth now.[emoji3] but there is a drop in fe. Now i am getting only 42 kmpl with pillion. (Total weight 70+75=145 kg) before tuning i was getting 45 to 50 with the same pillion rider.[emoji20] is the fe will be back with some running in? Or do i need to retune?

Tapatalked from my Canvas A76