Was the piston changed due to excessive carbon buildup on the crown resulting in higher compression and detonating the engine?
Were the valves burnt due to the buildup of carbon on the piston crown as stated above?

Don't answer that mate, Just joking (they were the most popular things a month or 2 back, Just thought I'd inject a bit of humour back into the forum )

The sound may be from the tappets needing adjustment in your head.
When you are in N, and you rev the engine, do you hear the sound getting faster? those who have installed RC's cam had similar issues.
When you go to the SVC get them to check the tappets (though you may need to leave your bike there a few hrs to cool down as the measurements are done cold, unless they have hot measurements)
Also check the tension on the timing chain. there is a small port that you can use to set the tension, though its a spring loaded type so it always keeps its tension on.

One more thing to look at is the starter clutch. Lucky Luke had that problem where it makes a rattle. Get the SVC guys to check that also.

Don't worry about your run in procedure, your rings are already bedded in. Keep riding it as you would normally and make sure you change your oil often.

If theres noticeable rattle when closing throttle, then that means excess timing chain slack. Check the timing chain tensioner.

Here is something taken from a Ducati forum regarding engine run in from factory.
I remember the debate (that still is ongoing) about how to run in your engine, what to do after a rebuild etc.

Here is a very experienced member (of the ducati forum) and his method and reasonings behind factory and rebuild running in methods and what oil to use.
He explains it the best I think.

Engine Break-In Procedure - New vs. Rebuild - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum

Here is his post.

Engine Break-In Procedure - New vs. Rebuild

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The answer to how to break-in an engine, and whether to use a synthetic oil during break-in, is different for new engines and rebuilt engines. What the engine manufacturers do and recommend for a new engine break-in should not be construed as the best solution for a rebuilt engine. Here’s why.

The manufacturer controls the complete quality assurance and quality control process: design, fabrication, build, inspection and testing. The overall result is not necessarily better than can be achieved by a custom engine builder, just more consistent.

So when a manufacturer first fires-up each new engine on a test stand, they know from experience (and monitoring each engine’s exhaust oil combustion products) that the piston rings will seat properly before the engine leaves the factory.

Every Ducati is run-in for ten minutes or more on the dyno using a prescribed rpm and temperature sequence. Many manufacturers including Ducati, Porsche, Mercedes-Benz, Corvette, Viper and Aston Martin do their initial fill with a synthetic oil, and piston wall glazing is simply not a problem for them.

The piston rings seal is mostly complete after this initial test run. The follow-up part of the break-in (that you read in your Owners Manual) has little to do with piston ring sealing. It’s meant to accommodate the time it takes for normal wear to occur to thousands of mating parts like bearings and gears, that will happen regardless of the type lubricant used. It’s particularly important to change any lubricant early, and often, to remove the resultant wear debris.

However, when you rebuild an engine you can introduce a number of variables (that affect glazing) that are different from a new engine such as piston ring material, clearances (that affects ring pressure on the wall) and cylinder wall surface finish. Also, not all engine re-builders have complete, accurate control over their cylinder-wall finish and ring type like the manufacturers.

Cylinder wall glazing occurs when the engine is run at power levels too low to produce temperatures high enough to expand the piston rings sufficiently to prevent a film of oil being left on the cylinder walls. The high temperatures in the combustion chamber will oxidize this oil film so that it creates a condition commonly called glazing. When this happens, the ring break-in process stops, and excessive oil consumption can occur. Excessive glazing can only be corrected by removing the cylinders and re-honing the walls.

The build quality of engines 25 years ago probably contributed to the controversy that somehow synthetic oils are too slippery for break-in and that than conventional oils should be used.

So what do the oil manufacturers say?

According to a Road & Track article a few years ago regarding the use of synthetic oil during break-in, Mobil’s position was that engines break-in just fine on synthetics, and that any wear point in the engine significant enough to be an interference, and thus susceptible to rapid wear, would be a wear point no matter what lubricant is used. Redline on the other hand, recommended a mineral oil for break-in. They say that in their experience, occasionally a rebuilt engine will glaze its cylinder walls when initially run on Redline synthetic, so by using a mineral oil for 2,000 miles, verifying there is no oil consumption, and then switching to the synthetic, glazing is eliminated.

In any event, for a rebuild, you shouldn’t use an Owners Manual-style break-in period. You need to reproduce the Ducati factory dyno runs to avoid cylinder glazing. One way is to monitor tailpipe hydrocarbons to see when they drop during dyno runs. The other way is to ride it like you stole it.

Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

I don't understand why people say use mineral for run in and for a 'few thousands kms'.. Because the r15 comes with SS oil and nobody pours mineral in it to run in.




Sent from my WT19i

The mineral oil was used back before there was synthetic oil. People are still slow to change their habits and will rather stick with what they know.
I did my run in on full synth and had ZERO issues.

Though its a debatable topic around the world. But runnin in on synthetic is possible not preferable.
What max can be proved is that FS is equivalent to Mineral in engine breakin. Why would someone throw the oil that comes factory filled and start breakin using FS?
If I could choose the mother engine oil in my bike during purchase, I may do that. Motorcycle engine oils do not contain any friction modifiers and would not interfere in break in at all. For more info one can read my post on 03-18-12
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcycle-ownership-experiences/5370-yamaha-fz-16-fz-s-1355.html

No issues even with ss of fs.
Even using Fs during initial run does not harm the engine as there is a little to be done for the engine by itself.
Every new engine has internal components that must be "worn-in". This "wearing-in" of components is what's known as "break-in". The main components that need to be broken-in/worn-in are the valves, the cylinder bore, and the piston rings. These components must be worn-in so that they mate properly with the surfaces they will interact with over the life of the engine.

Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

No one is saying that oil that has come from factory should be thrown out and running in should be done with synthetic oil. However, as the post by Mik says most factories have now (in fact car makers like BMW and Audi have been using it since early 2000s) started using semi and fully synthetic oils (especially for high performance engines) in their production lines and there is nothing wrong in running in engines with synthetic oils.

So where is the controversy? When synthetic oils were first introduced in the early 90s (Mobil1 was the first I think), bike engines from the 80s and early 90s were not considered suitable for synthetic oils due to greater tolerances and lower compression which were deemed to be inadequate to load piston rings against cylinder walls. This in turn led to cylinder glazing and oil consumption. Hence, the whole idea of synthetic oil is not good for initial running in.

Its a 20 year old proposition. However, the question that needs to be asked is 'does the idea still have relevance today?'. I think the answer lies in the fact that factories are now filling in semi and fully synthetic oils in engines with 0 kms on them.

Took the bike ASC today to check for the engine noise I mentioned earlier, the centre was really busy they asked me to come back on wednesday to get the bike the throughly checked.
On the way back home took the bike to my mechanic friend , he tried sticking the throttle at 4k rpm and there was a constant rattling/weining sound from the engine. He said that engine bearings has to be checked nothing wrong with cam timings or tappets. Now I am totally confused.

Nothing to get confused Give the bike in showroom rather than Outside mechanics. They gonna replace directly if messed.

Got my fz-s sunset red yesterday .. must thank this thread as i went through it while deciding to buy this baby..! and about bike its a road hugger for sure.. thumbs up for handling and its truly the lord of the streets.

Hi all,
When i rotate the front wheel of my bike,the wheel rotates freely but at one point in each rotation the disc pads touches the disc and slows it down a bit.
Is it a bent disc or wheel alignment issue???

Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

Light contact will be there but it won't slow down the rotation speed.

Did you have any spills recently? Try removing the caliper assembly then clean and put it back.

I don't think alignment will change without any reason like a crash or something.

I had bend forks and t-stem but it never affected the disc brakes. One time I had an accident and got the disc bend, had 2 options 1)replace 2) lathe. I choose to replace as I wasn't comfortable using force/shaving off from the disc. Costed me 800+ bucks about 5-6 months ago.



Sent from my WT19i

Hello I also have Yamaha Fazer 150, but I live and ride it in Ukraine.
It is quite far from India I made 16000 for 6 months and rode even in December when
temperature was +1, +2(Celsius). I think that sometimes I had ice in the carbrettor But
I just did not close the throttle
Actually I need some spare parts: at first new oil and air filters and a driven sprocket.
I wanted to ask if you can help me getting it. I can transfer money in advance.
Thanks

Hi,

Ukraine, quite an unusual place for Yamaha Fazer 150 to show up!!

Before i do offer my help, please confirm that your bike is the same make and model as the one shown in the image below:



If so then I can surely help you out with sourcing of the parts my friend.

For personal use, there is a limit to the no. of parts that can be shipped and in what quantity. Plus you will have to bear the shipping expenses to your country plus any additional costs due to customs or taxes applicable in India for international shipping.

For your information, below are the prices of the parts:

* Clutch Cable: INR 89/-
* Oil Filter: INR 35/-
* Air Filter: INR 250-280/-
* Chain and Sprocket set: INR 1250-1300/-

So overall cost will be : INR 1704/- = roughly UAH 11,258/- + shipping + customs and any taxes (If applicable).

If the temperatures run so close to 0' C then may i suggest you should shift to a 10W 40 or 0W 40 engine oil. Not sure though which brand of oil you get in Ukraine.

Cheers,