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Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

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  • Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

    Originally posted by devils_friend View Post
    I also face the same issue when I try to maintain a constant speed. The bike feels as if it is about to hit reserve, irrespective of the amount of fuel in the fuel tank.

    Haven't opened the carb till date. But, had got the carb cleaned last year.

    Cheerz!!
    I was facing the same problem, plus the popping sound from silencer and it was never solved by svc. Found a good mechanic who tested the bike and told me that its caused by the kaput secondary air injector. Don't know much about it, seniors may help. Got it replaced in front of me and it has solved my problems. Carb on my bike is never fiddled with. Past 13 services were at svc at exact prescribed intervals and this was the first time I let anyone other than svc guys service it!

    Any shell advance AX7 10w40 users? Could you please let me know the exact drain period. Mech says 2k kms but in the shell outlet the guy told me it will last at least 3k kms. Its first time im using any oil other than yamalube.

    Comment


    • Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

      Originally posted by accuengineer View Post
      Please correct me if I am wrong. In high altitude the oxygen available is less so we have less oxygen to assist proper combustion. But the fuel supplied is the same. So the AFR will become rich with more fuel and less Oxygen. So a wire in the fuel intake will reduce the fuel ratio, thereby normalising the AFR. So if we make the setting to lean(fuel intake) then the problem will be solved.

      Cheers

      Mathews
      Ya, i know about this technique and have mentioned about it in my earlier posts.
      In this technique, the wire reduces the fuel flow to compensate for low air intake. Likewise, if we somehow increase the air intake (by using an after-market air filter), would it solve the problem ?
      The wire-in-carb technique talks about controlling the fuel, i am talking about increasing the air intake.

      Originally posted by devils_friend View Post
      True that. But, you have to tune the carb, so that the bike runs fine at higher altitudes.

      Making the bike run on lean mixture will put more stress on the engine. Not sure why they make it run on lean AFR

      Lean AFR will put more stress on the engine. Already the bike struggles at higher altitude and if we make it more lean (more air + less fuel) the bike will overheat and stall.

      Cheerz!
      You got this wrong, at higher altitudes, the afr becomes rich, with more fuel and less air. This is way i am talking about having more air.

      Ride safe and have fun.
      Regards
      Nadeem

      Comment


      • Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

        Originally posted by sachin_v View Post
        I was facing the same problem, plus the popping sound from silencer and it was never solved by svc. Found a good mechanic who tested the bike and told me that its caused by the kaput secondary air injector. Don't know much about it, seniors may help. Got it replaced in front of me and it has solved my problems. Carb on my bike is never fiddled with. Past 13 services were at svc at exact prescribed intervals and this was the first time I let anyone other than svc guys service it!

        Any shell advance AX7 10w40 users? Could you please let me know the exact drain period. Mech says 2k kms but in the shell outlet the guy told me it will last at least 3k kms. Its first time im using any oil other than yamalube.
        How much did the replacement cost? Any effect on mileage or other things?

        Shell AX7 can be used easily upto 2.5k kms, I have used it. But, keep a tab on oil level after 1k kms.

        Cheerz!!
        The real beauty lies in throttle's twist!!

        Headlight can be replaced, Head cannot be. Wear a helmet.

        Comment


        • Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

          Originally posted by Ishwor View Post
          ...
          After changing gear and accelerating bike jerks.Bike lose power for a moment and jerks bad.

          Carburator cleaning,new spark plug,new air filter didnt help. Mechanic says this symptom has accoured on almost all first gen fz(fz16) and carburator needs replacement....
          Can you recheck for faulty float & fuel supply line for any discrepancies?
          Originally posted by Ishwor View Post
          ...
          Carburator costs almost 9k indian rupees here in Nepal. Is there any cost effective option?
          Originally posted by devils_friend View Post
          Price here in India is Rs. 3500 or so.
          If it comes down to new carburettor, can't you tag with an Indian friend to buy you a carb on this side of the border at a lower price?

          Originally posted by Ishwor View Post
          ...
          Are our cables teflon coated ?
          Just came to know teflon coated cable sont need lubing.
          ...
          I was looking to find a way to identify teflon(PTFE-PolyTetraFluoroEthylene) coated clutch/throttle cables. I ended up on Genuine Barnett Cables. Their finest cables(high-efficiency) are nylon coated & lubed with silicone-lube. Coz, dino-oils break nylon.

          I'm curious now, but not enough to break/hack open my current working cable(on GS150R, which is also claimed to be Teflon coated).

          Originally posted by sachin_v View Post
          ... Found a good mechanic who tested the bike and told me that its caused by the kaput secondary air injector. Don't know much about it, ...
          I think Secondary Air Injection should cover most theory.

          Originally posted by devils_friend View Post
          Any effect on mileage or other things? ...
          I think SAI/PAIR only affects emissions not mileage. Also, there was something like back-pressure from CatCon(exhaust-line), further dig-up is needed.

          Originally posted by accuengineer View Post
          ... In high altitude the oxygen available is less so we have less oxygen to assist proper combustion. But the fuel supplied is the same. So the AFR will become rich with more fuel and less Oxygen. So a wire in the fuel intake will reduce the fuel ratio, thereby normalising the AFR. So if we make the setting to lean(fuel intake) then the problem will be solved...
          We can dig deeper to see if it leads to clarity or confusion.
          Given Air-Density decreases with increase in altitude.
          Density Altitude
          Oxygen Altitude Chart

          So, oxygen at 4,000 m is about 60% of sea level oxygen concentration. i.e. Air itself is 60% of sea-level density.

          Given carburettor works on Capillary(SurfaceTension) Action & Venturi Effect.

          Capillary Action:

          Source: Capillary Action

          Venturi Effect: Note the incoming air when made to go through a reduced space pushes the liquid downwards due to pressure difference.

          Source: Venturi Effect
          When you check the Venturi-Effect equation, the pressure difference is directly proportional to density of the matter flowing/passing through venturi.
          This pressure difference combined with capillary-action work in conjuction to generate desirable AFR. i.e Fuel/Gasoline raise from float-bowl through capillaries/Main-Jet and gets blown into fine mist by gusting air.

          Rough intake of air @ 4,200 RPM from a 150cc engine while ignoring fuel content:
          4, 200 RPM
          => 70 RPS i.e per second
          => 35 intakes per second in 4T engine
          => 35 * 150cc = 5.25 L of air per second
          => now one can estimate the speed of air-fuel mix through 26mm or 28mm carb, out of scope.

          Density of Gasoline isn't affected by altitude, not significantly @ 4,000m above sea-level. Since the density of air is about 60% @ 4,000m, it should reduce the fuel intake too(reduced pressure difference). Nevertheless, AFR is still rich(or is it?).

          To compensate with the reduced pressure-difference we need to reduce the capillary/jet diameter to bring AFR into optimal range.

          This opens door to few more questions:
          1. What the max power & torque from the naturally aspirated engine @ 4,000m?
          2. How the reduced air & fuel in AFR behaves during compression/ignition/combustion time?
          Last edited by SparKot; 11-21-2014, 10:29 PM.
          There is no honest path to prosperity - KoKa
          Useful Resources Over Internet

          Comment


          • FZ handle shaking

            Hi Guys,
            From last three months I have been screwed up by one issue.......handle shaking....
            Initially when this issue brought to Yamaha noticed (Kamla Yamaha-Borivali east) they have suggested to replaces cone set.
            After replacement of cone set, issue doesn't resolved..so they have suggested to replace the front tyre....
            I got the replacement in warranty which was helpful....
            Today when I gone in service centre, we checked the mackwheel and found shaking....wheel tested on alignment machine.
            Root cause of the handle issue is not because of the mackwheel as confirmed by Yamaha guy.
            Can any one suggest what needs to be done now??

            Comment


            • Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

              Originally posted by SparKot View Post
              ...Nevertheless, AFR is still rich(or is it?).

              To compensate with the reduced pressure-difference we need to reduce the capillary/jet diameter to bring AFR into optimal range.

              This opens door to few more questions:
              1. What the max power..
              Sorry dont mean to butt in, but in my opinion the pressure difference created between the two ends of jet/venturi in the carb might be changing because suction created in the cylinder is same everytime so suggestion of changing jet size(main/pilot) as stated by you is right.
              Also the fuel stations at these high altitude places have lower density fuel to compensate for lower density air so some of the problem is solved right there.
              And max power/torque too remains same..as depending on your bikes initial carb setup when you change the jets/fuel screw setting(for leaner side) to compensate for altitude you may feel a difference but all due to you being closer or farther away from your respective correct setting(correct afr=chocbrown/reddish insulator)for your particular bike.
              Last edited by curve_king; 11-22-2014, 01:34 AM.

              Comment


              • Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

                Purchased a 2008 fz Mint condition 40k run for 18k .
                Which motul oil to use ..?
                Monthly run is 300km only .


                Sent from my LG-L9 Via Google voice typing

                Comment


                • Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

                  Originally posted by Anuj_Gupta View Post
                  Purchased a 2008 fz Mint condition 40k run for 18k .
                  Which motul oil to use ..?
                  Monthly run is 300km only .


                  Sent from my LG-L9 Via Google voice typing
                  Stick to mineral oil from Motul, Gulf, Veedol or any other you cam get.

                  Cheerz!!
                  The real beauty lies in throttle's twist!!

                  Headlight can be replaced, Head cannot be. Wear a helmet.

                  Comment


                  • Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

                    Originally posted by devils_friend View Post
                    Stick to mineral oil from Motul, Gulf, Veedol or any other you cam get.

                    Cheerz!!
                    I need to know the grade ..?


                    Sent from my LG-L9 Via Google voice typing

                    Comment


                    • Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

                      Originally posted by Anuj_Gupta View Post
                      I need to know the grade ..?
                      20w40 and 20w50 are the recommended grades in the manual.
                      For your riding, use mineral. Even Yamalube mineral is quite good. Comparable to motul mineral.

                      Ride safe and have fun.
                      Regards
                      Nadeem

                      Comment


                      • Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

                        Originally posted by nadz11.ns View Post
                        20w40 and 20w50 are the recommended grades in the manual.
                        For your riding, use mineral. Even Yamalube mineral is quite good. Comparable to motul mineral.
                        How can a company recommend xx40 and 50 at the same time ...?

                        You sure ..?
                        If 20w50 ,then I'll go with 3100 gold .
                        And how much quantity. .?(in litre)
                        Does fz uses a changeable oil filter ,or I can just drain and pour ..?
                        Sent from my LG-L9 Via Google voice typing

                        Comment


                        • Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

                          Originally posted by Anuj_Gupta View Post
                          How can a company recommend xx40 and 50 at the same time ...?

                          You sure ..?
                          If 20w50 ,then I'll go with 3100 gold .
                          And how much quantity. .?(in litre)
                          Does fz uses a changeable oil filter ,or I can just drain and pour ..?
                          Sent from my LG-L9 Via Google voice typing
                          Its mentioned in the manual, but i feel the engine is more comfortable with 20w40.
                          I think its mentioned 1200ml when the oil filter is also changed. But i have always filled 1L and no issues till now.
                          And yes, change oil filter every time you change the engine oil. It costs ₹40 only.

                          Ride safe and have fun.
                          Regards
                          Nadeem

                          Comment


                          • Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

                            Originally posted by nadz11.ns View Post
                            20w40 and 20w50 are the recommended grades in the manual.
                            For your riding, use mineral. Even Yamalube mineral is quite good. Comparable to motul mineral.

                            Use 20w40 for best results or go for 15w40 semi synthetic for smooth engine and good ride quality.

                            Comment


                            • Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

                              Originally posted by Balgi View Post
                              Use 20w40 for best results or go for 15w40 semi synthetic for smooth engine and good ride quality.
                              Ya . i do the same. Actually for the last 2 months, been using 15w40 grade castrol SS oil feels good.

                              Worst oil for fz is 15w50 grade. Everything goes for a toss.

                              Ride safe and have fun.
                              Regards
                              Nadeem

                              Comment


                              • Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

                                Originally posted by nadz11.ns View Post
                                Ya . i do the same. Actually for the last 2 months, been using 15w40 grade castrol SS oil feels good.

                                Worst oil for fz is 15w50 grade. Everything goes for a toss.

                                Cost ..?

                                Sent from my LG-L9 Via Google voice typing

                                Comment

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