so this is the right way is it?...then what is the difference between what i do and what you said...

Thanks Xbhp and FZians

bike is almost fine gone to road side mechanic check and tell about the bike and open engine neon and mud bike halogen . Re test both the electric point and all ... search And found the defect ... The defect is with engine neon switch which is just below the battery panel .. Recheck and again fuse blown up .. then clean the stater relay assy and check again .. and its work ...

THnaks Xbhp and FZians to help me out

LOng live Xbhp..

want to know about
Shell Advance AX5 20w40

is it okie for fz16 as in the website it is writen that it is JASO MA i have heard that we have to use JASO MA 2 for Indian bikes

or should i have to stick to gulf pride 4t plus 20w40

I don't buy this argument. No company will allow to ruin their product under warranty by giving wrong information. When they say that engine breaking period is 1000 km then surely it will be less than 1k but not more than that. They know that our guys won't have patience and will not wait right from km 0. That's why they even split engine breaking into two phases of 500km.

I was "ripping" as you call it after 20kms on my new 200cc engine.
Redline, 100%throttle, upshift, downshifts you name it I was doing it all and more.
Spent most of its life on the other side of 5k RPM.

If I was worried about mileage then I wouldn't have modified my bike at all, run the engine in with minimal throttle, ride around in top gear keeping under 30kph, then write to the forum complaining about my engine shuddering and how to get better mileage.

@mik, it's not about how you ripped the bike. It's about how you followed the creator's manual. Engine breaking according to the manual is 1k kms but someone says, it is 3k. I don't think if Yamaha knew the right engine breaking is 3k then they wouldn't have warned us only till 1k because they are more careful than us because they are the ones to be responsible for the product under warranty.

I never ride my bike at 30km/hr on 5th gear.

Can't make out from the picture.. you may have used flash i guess... click the pic using natural light and grey colour background.. That will help.


Cheers,

Answers above in bold.

Cheers,

You can do 100 kms at a stretch on a brand new bike but then let it cool down for a bit and then start riding her again till the 1st 1000 kms. I didn't even bother with that... finished 300 kms in 3 days going crazy over riding her... and she is absolutely fine.. the FE is fine and very minute or no engine oil consumption.


Cheers,

This has been discussed to the death... Motul is not manufactured in India, it is imported, unless you are getting fake oils... at least all the bottles i have purchased from my dealer have import tag on them. Yamalube now is manufactured in India locally as per the specifications of JASO standards. Motul is a personal preference over Yamalube.. as i found it to have better lubrication properties and engine cooling and also engine to be much happier with revving compared to Yamalube hence, the recommendation. Please don't add any more confusion to this and we all end up starting a discussion on the same thing which has already been done long time back.

Ideally one should soak the oil filter before installation and not insert the dry filter straight away.. i would not recommend it... atleast my trusted SVC has always followed this procedure to the T.

Sorry guys for multi posting... but can't go through the whole list... too many pages done since, i have last logged in..


Cheers,

^^He prefer the easy way only

It is nothing to do with that... Right now there are two approaches towards engine break-in.. what Mik has done is Moto man technique which involves hard riding and changing oil in short periods. What the manufacturer recommends is a traditional technique. It is upto the user which one to choose.

Motoman technique i feel should be used only if you know what you are doing.. in Mik's case i am sure he is more than prepared for that .


Cheers,

By now you must have figured out rather heck everyone that I am a Motul fan!! Hence, would recommend you Motul 3000V 20W 40 mineral oil. However, as per your query.. If the oil meets the JASO MA standards precribed on the manual, yes it can be put in your engine.

Cheers,

Its my money and my machine. You can bet your ass I'm going to be riding it hard If it breaks oh well, Got enough $$$$ to build it stronger.

Its not recommended for those with little or no mechanical knowledge. If something doesn't feel/sound/vibrate right then I know about it. You need to be able to "feel" the bike. Those who have knowledge about mechanical things will be able to run their equipment harder.

The factory guide is purely that. A guide. Not a exact set of instructions. Yes they are erring on the safe side, However nothing much has changed in the way of the instructions Vs newer technology, metalurgy, tighter tolerances, casting and machining processes.

If you look at a engine built back in 1960 Vs 2012 you will see a major difference. For example, The Toyota 1UFZ 4.0L V8. 48 Valve Quad cam head.
This is a all alloy engine block, head. It is approx 60cm X 60cm X 60cm.
Crank is 6 bolt mains Yes 6 bolts. 4 across the top and 2 in the sides (Main caps are what holds the crank in place in the block. 2 bolt caps = 1 bolt each side of the crank, 4 bolt mains = 2 bolts each side of the crank)
Not to mention cracked journals for greater strength and closer/tighter tolerances....That was unheard of back inthe 1990's when it first rolled off the production line in Japan under the bonnets of the new luxury brand Lexus. The most you got in engines back then then were 4bolt mains, and that was with custom cast engine blocks purely for drag racing and racing/High output HP engines from USA. These new Japanese V8's were that vibration free and smooth revving you can place a coin (if it had a flat side like the 50cent coin in Aust) standing on its side and rev the engine upto 5k RPM before the coil would start to wobble. Try doing that with a old 1960's American V8 or even a modern V8.
The comparison remains valid. Compare the technology used now Vs then.
Then compare the run in instructions...Its time for them to be updated.

Do you mean that engine break period of 3000 km as claimed by someone else is baseless?

I don't think anyone has questioned your riding credentials, yeah it's your money you can rip it from day 1 to void your warranty and build another one for yourself.

The thing here we are discussing is engine breaking period. I don't think it is better to follow anyone other than the creator (Yamaha) who created the babe (FZ).