You are not getting the point... He is talking about the advances in technology and metallurgy.. Thus the tolerances have improved with advances in technology. No one is here to talk about right or wrong it is just about sharing information.

Yamaha is recommending an approach which is gentle and also in the process by limiting the speed a rider also gets aquainted with his ride. Heck Bay Ninja has a run-in of 1600 kms!! As a user one can also opt for Moto man technique however, only if one understands the risk associated with it and what are the ways to counteract with it. In Mik's case, I believe his credentials have already mentioned on this thread so I shall not question that.

In your case being a beginner rider, follow the manual, follow a gentler approach and stick to the manual. Constantly modulate your throttle, change gears, give more load to your ride. In between on a straight line give the beans for about 10 seconds and then back to riding her gently. Post second oil change the gears will be even more smoother. You can now ride her 6000 rpm.


Cheers,

Don't forget my engine is not a factory engine.
Different piston, different piston rings, different size intake/exh valves, different combustion chamber design, different port size, different intake runner, different engine crank bearings, different engine oil, exhaust, carb, exhaust and airfilter.
Not the same as the stock engine. This engine is similar to Lucky Luc's. Mine is going to be pounded on, beaten on, reved to redline when ever I ride it, I want to wring its neck when I ride it, See how it responds, kick down 2 gears and "get up her" (aussie slang for give it full throttle)

As I have a forged piston, I need to let it expand. How do I do this? I let it warm up of course. First 30seconds or 1min I just let it idle. If it stalls I check the fuel cock is turned on, restart it and give it some blips of the throttle. (I don't bother trying to use the kickstand, count how many kicks it takes to start etc ) If its going to stall then I simply give it another rev. Upto around 3k RPM is enough and back to idle. My idle is 1000RPM btw. Nice and smooth.

After the time has passed I ride off slowly, changing up through the gears (using clutch) at around 4k, until I've gone a 1km or so, (Oil circulated, warmed up internals, tolerances closing/opening with the heat) then its time to decrease my mileage in a very rapid rate (without the clutch when shifting up)

Those with a factory engine can run it in however you want,
Fellow members know my views on mechanical items, I'm used to doing the spanner twirling myself, I'm not afraid of spending $ on high quality items, stronger parts or even new parts to do some Research and Development/ Experiment to satisfy my "What if" curiosity.

If I wanted to run my bike in slowly according to the manual I'll still be easing on the throttle. My bike has still only done 18XX km's from new, Including around 4XXkms with the new engine.

My engine doesn't overheat, doesn't vibrate at any of the rev range, doesn't consume oil, no smoke from the exhaust, No funny sounds from the engine either, Sparkplug is chocolate brown, Always had 100% Motul synth oil (even when starting up first time)
It's not a question of IF it breaks, but WHEN it breaks, I'll give it a full tear down, see what failed, and see if it can be reinforced.
I'm going to take a guess and say its the dodgey indo big valve head.
Only thing I can ask for is even more power

YEAH! Yeah, Mik, let's get a BANG out of those machines, VROOOOAAAAAAA!
We got balls of steel, let's have fun!
What's the point in getting the most muscular, macho looking machine in that range if it is for riding it like a virgin and do offerings at the fuel gauge? Are you that fake???
Live to your dreams! You want to look great?: BE great!

I am really tired, guys, of this continuous baby cry about mileage, questioning if a ONE RUPEE (!!!) spending on a gasket is worth it, asking in uppercase, bold, red, big size font for heeeeelp about...a blown fuse (just go to a mechanic and pay for his work!), the laziness of most newcomers here who do not just go back a few pages and ask the same question again and again and again, etc....etc...!

Those who have real inquiries, need real assistance, want to discuss something that has not been discussed ad nausea like this running-in question, who want to share and not just come for free assistance and get away without a thank you, all you are welcome on a discussion forum.

The others....not worth reading/ replying to your posts.

You have 4 different looking pictures attached in your previous post... how do you expect us to make out which one is correct?? click without using flash and ambient light with grey background and not white..


Cheers,

Unfortunately we are a country full of countrymen obsessed with FE and a lot of buying decisions of a car/bike are based on that!! .. i personally donot believe in FE as i earlier used to drive only cars... so if i were to do comparison with FE figures... it is more then three times of what a car has to offer.. so no thank you FE... i look at FE only as a sign of health for my ride.. if it goes down drastically then i know that there is something wrong.. higher FE post installation of joel's FFE is just a plus!! Performance and reliability is all that matters in my book..

Cheers,

I too agree with you. When I bought this bike, I expected a mileage of 40 km/l only but after understanding that they decreased torque and some changes, this bike is giving 45 km/l for most of the people who bought new models. I also want to look into FE only on the basis of bike's health. Really if I was a petrol saving guy then I would have bought a much cheaper Honda Unicorn.

Or a cycle maybe?

i ask for help because about that fuse topic because 5 time blow less that in 24 hr. is really frustrating me as i don't know what i have to do and really me was confuse and i was thinking to change the whole electronic cable or CDI unit , relay or flasher relay assy or what so ever ... finaly all FZains help me .. me was happy when my fz is back and normal and love to be part of Xbhp

am not fake as i live and njoy with my fz as i know that yamaha is best and always be best from other in every aspect

crazy..

this might sound crazy,
anyone and everyone please try to answer this.
can we cut the silencer at the muffler box at the bottom, like the ktm duke
if we remove the plastic silencer cap you can notice that it is a pretty small exhaust, what difference would it make????

Thanks bro...i have changed the plug...

Good crack but don't forget best riders started with that humble bicycle, falling several times.

In plain answer NO!! Unplanned exhaust design without proper gas exhaust calculations, pulse tuning will lead to reduction in engine performance and longevity. All performance exhausts from reputed after market manufacturers have been designed keeping gas outflow and back pressure in mind. Just simply cutting the exhaust in half is not going to help unless you belong to the group of people who go for SOUND!! which i believe is plainly stupid..

There is a reason why people route for proper performance exhaust makers instead of building one by themselves.. It is indeed an art which not a lot of people have been able to master..

Cheers,

I hear that Luc!!!
If you want to get a bike that uses very little petrol, get a 50cc scooter or a bicycle.

We will be ripping along on our bikes when I get back home mate, Just hope Pete with his stock FZ16 can keep up with us hehehe.

Perhaps the Mods can open a new thread where people can just ask purely about mileage related topics and possibly another thread for performance related topics. I think there will be about 5 people in the performance topic thread and a hundred in the mileage thread

Just for curiosity...the Duke 200 has these tyres:
Front tire size : 110/70 R17 54S MRF Revz FC
Rear tire size : 150/60 R17 66S MRF Revz C

So what would be the pros and cons of putting these on the FZ?

Pros: Looks
Cons: Mileage/Performance/Handling