Bro my bike is 8 months and 11000kms old. And the service centre mechanics has adjusted the carbeurator on 5000km. And yes the back fire or the gunshot like sound happens often..
Here is the post from me which shows the condition of stock spark plug

So what should i do now.. What should be my next step...
this is the post where i posted the pictures of my stock spark plug . Please check this if required. the tip is chocolaty brown in colour

Hi Raj,
I can not comment based on the spark plug condition. PSRji has precisely given the reason. Show it to your SVC. If no help then show it to different SVC in your locality. I used to get the burning smell. But it was raised by many Fz owners. Some said paint, some said gasket but nobody knows the exact reason. As per my knowledge there is no wire passing nearby the engine. Unless if you have done any DIY jobs.
Just check it again as a precaution. In my case there is no smell now.
Check if the smell starts as soon as you start riding or after few minutes of riding. Try running the bike in idle & try to identify from where exactly the smell is coming.
If possible check the areas nearby the engine, under the seat, behind the headlight for any short circuit.

Thank you abhijit bhai....i will look into this by tomorrow and give an update

Check the exhaust & inlet valve clearance at SVC and set it right. Check the Exhaust bend pipe,and muffler for rubber or plastic piece sticking to it. Some times while riding on the road, small pieces of rubber or plastic bag etc.,which is on he road, will stick to the exhaust under hot condition,and this will continue to give a burning rubber smell till it is totally burnt...
The picture of the Plug generally shows a lean AFR...get it corrected,and it may also help in reducing your burnt rubber smell.

Thank you sooo much psr bhaiya. Will check on it...

Experiences and observations.

Hi guys...

My Black-green Fazer is about 4 weeks old now... 673km on the odo.
Here are a few thoughts/observations...
Engine feels amazing though still at revs below 5k most of the time. Above that engine feels like something is holding it back kinda like too much friction in the piston.
Rode at 45-50kmph till 500km with one burst to 65kmph.
After 500km riding at 50-55kmph with one burst to 70 and thats when I felt that the engine feels a li'l different, a li'l rough maybe.

Faces smoke issues twice which Shiv said are normal (paint burning).

Gear-shifts are still pretty hard, sometimes make me feel they are becoming harder. Especially while shifting up. I've to sometimes use all the force in my ankles to shift up. No so much while shifting down but then it gets stuck in which case I've to release the clutch and shift again.
Is it supposed to be this hard?? Is the engine-oil not lubricating the transmission properly??
I had got the engine oil checked once at about 250km at the SVC (Orion Motors, Bangalore). They showed me the oil and said that the oil is fine. Had checked it myself once after a 20km ride, oil still golden brown quite transparent with no visible impurities.

Another nigging problem, the clutch switch causes problems. The bike sometimes starts without the clutch being pulled when its in gear. Showed it to SVC, they just tightened it. But prob again appeared. Happens sometimes but not always. Planning to get it changed coming first service (due in a weeks time).

Another issue is rear brake bite. Its still very low. Front brake bite is fine. I know it will increase over time and it its not being helped when I mostly use the front brakes for braking (the 70-front, 30-rear technique). How long does it usually take to get the brake bite right?? Is it cos of the brake usage style??

Any suggestions would be helpful??

Cheers!!

@ RAJ: In my opinion the odd smell is due to the junks and mud that is already deposited in the silencer under engine, lower part of the engine & mostly the big catcon box just in front of the rear tyre. This junk smells bad when they heated and that is the only reason. Just wash your bike properly every week and see the smell will vanish. This smelly thing happened only during the rainy season.
@ALL: My bike is 10500 km old and the rear tyre has already patched seven times. Now it is losing pressure everyday from the old patches. Today I went to a tyre shop and they checked the tyre with soap water and found the problem, at least two patches are leaking. They suggested me to replace the tyre either with 140/70 Contigo or the stock. Contigo will cost me Rs.3300 & the MRF will be Rs.3500. Now what you guys suggests, should I replace the tyre?
On the other hand, I was thinking to use slime for this small leaks, is it ok to use this considering the tyre age?

Thanks

KB

Contigo is crap.. Doesn't hold well on wet roads.. One can check CBR column to confirm.. I have already posted a detailed tire info along with pics.. Again google search will help.

Cheers,

The gears will smoothen out post 1st service.. Use Motul 3000V 20W 40 mineral oil and do replace to Oil filter. The brake bite can be easily adjusted by you or by any roadside mechanic. Follow the riding technique that has been posted against Jonahmano's earlier queries to smoothen out the ride.

The burning smell will go post 1st service or else.. Check the exhaust properly for any mud, grime or plastic sticking to it.. That usually causes the bruning smell.

The clutch cable needs adjustment and the SVC guys have not done it properly. Ensure when you are getting the 1st service done, the mechanic does check the battery water level and he applies grease or petroleum jelly on the terminals.

@ALL: Ever since, I have reverted to stock I am feeling very bored riding my FZ... Probably because of muscle memory and my ears tuned to the FFE.. I have inadvertently ended up doing quite a few rounds of wrong gears and hitting neutral many times.. So now eagerly awaiting for the FFE to come back from plating so that I can resume the task of scaring the pants of pedestrians with my FFE .. Kidding.. The stock performance seriously sucks..

Cheers,

Could not agree more!

I am assuming that your bike is completely stock; From your description (and the state of plug in the photograph) it seems your bike is not running lean but running on the richer side. Backfiring can also happen due to very rich AFR. However, considering the state of the plug and also the fact that the backfiring is happening only when you are closing the throttle quickly, that does not seem to be the case over here. It is mostly likely that the Air Induction System is the culprit over here. Ask the SVC guys to the check the Air Induction System throughly to ensure it is working properly.

45kmh for the first 500 km....
Sounds to me that you are treating your bike really TOOO gently!!!

There has been a lot of discssions about how the running-in has to be done, here and elsewhere. I, like many, do not agree with the also called "Motoman" method (although understanding it for race bikes!), but that does not mean pampering your engine like a new born: this is a MACHINE, man, you must give it what it needs: give it a good gun sometimes! WOT! (Wide open throttle!) Revv. up gently ,as you feel the bike: if you can feel it being sort of "refrained" now, you will feel it getting free, gradually, as time goes, and as you increase your speed.

There is some paint burning. Although the exhaust is a double wall, it's paint does get hot! On top of that, there are a few rubber hoses hanging down behind your engine , and they DO get hot!! That's all "normal" - I mean: it should NOT be but it IS on all these models!

Gear-shift will ease with time too: don't worry!

However, if I am not for brutal running in (neither pampering!), I am ALL for multiple oil changes! And filter! For every penny you "save" now, you will spend two in the future! Specially if you have been riding very slowly, you will have carbon deposits: you now need to get them burnt away, and many will end up in the oil. Just GO, go, go, to 6/7,000 rpm, WOT (not for long!), make sure engine does not heat, and do it again, and again...! Then change oil and filter!

Rear brake: it is absolute CRAP, S****T, and a real shame Yamaha saved a few rupees there: bike DOES deserve a disc! Nearly ALL (I am in Vietnam) have got a disc fitted on their bikes here!

If your bike is still stock, that should not happen.

Check the following (two persons needed):
You will see that there is a small pipe connected on the top of the intake manifold right after the carb and it's isolating rubber.
There are also two hoses, one connected to the airbox, and one to the rocker cover. This last one actually continues inside and opens by a small hole in the exhaust port, in the cylinder head, right after the exhaust valve. These two hoses and this little pipe are all connected to a valve system situated under the tank.
1- Un plug the small pipe and the hose from the airbox.
2- while one gently tries to blow through the hose from the airbox, another one aspirates from the small pipe near the carb. This should open the valve and allow to blow in the "air-box" hose .

This system is designed so that, when you throttle down, meaning the high revving is still aspirating gas (the depression system of the carb is not fully closed yet - but the butterfly is, blocking air). The mixture is then too rich, but the depression in the manifold opens the valve, allowing fresh air to get right after the super-hot exhaust valve and finish consuming the extra gas of the too rich mixture.
If this does not work, a large quantity of unburnt mixture will get in the exhaust, and an occasional spark (a tiny particle of red hot carbon, or a flame from the exhaust) will ignite it, causing the loud popping sound and the exhaust flames. Very common when decelerating, going downhill etc....

Mind it: some pay money for having this sound and these flames bursting out of their exhaust: looks great in the night in front of mates and girl friends!

Bro are the patches done from inside,even my bike is 11000kms 8months old,and i have 6 punctures in which patches are from inside the tyre (vulcanization) its working completely fine. Try to do the patches from inside from a big tyre shop or from road side shops which does tyre repair work of trucks. secondly if you want to change tyres spend 3800/- go for pirelli sports demon 140/70. best grip and stability and safety money can buy for fz as per me. its really sticky and punctures are much less than stock. don't go for contigos. you wont have the same response from ur bike. its not that sticky. Just check the cbr250 ownership forum and you will understand. And all these are my thought on the subject . please wait for other esteemed members to reply and then decide