Comrade,
What you see in the pictures is not the real India. If ever you get a chance to visit our great democratic country, go through its inner, remote villages to know what India is and how the lucky Indians live.
West Bengal which was under the continuous rule of a pseudo revolutionary party for more than 35 years is one of the poorest states here. About 15-20 lakhs of Bengali youngsters have already migrated to the southern states, especially to Kerala, as manual laborers.
As per the latest available statistics, 421 million poor people live in 8 Indian states including the revolutionary West Bengal where the Naxalbari movement started in India. This is more than the combined population of the poorest African countries. The number of prostitutes in Kolkata, the capital of West Bengal itself is more than 6,00,000 and in Mumbai, the capital of Maharashtra is more than 10,00,000.
More than 50% of the rural Indians are having daily income of about 20 or so Indian rupees i.e. 7440 VND. One third of the world’s poor are living here. About 80 million of our population is homeless.
You don’t know what our great feudal India is.

@all: if we are done talking about the pathetic conditions prevailing in the respective countries, would sincerely request all riders to kindly get back FZ or fazer.

Anyways, just wanted to check if anyone has figured out what is the required valve setting clearence on Fz? Cheers,

@all: if we are done talking about the pathetic conditions prevailing in the respective countries, would sincerely request all riders to kindly get back FZ or fazer.

Anyways, just wanted to check if anyone has figured out what is the required valve setting clearance on Fz?
Cheers,

45kmh for the first 500 km....
Sounds to me that you are treating your bike really TOOO gently!!!

There has been a lot of discssions about how the running-in has to be done, here and elsewhere. I, like many, do not agree with the also called "Motoman" method (although understanding it for race bikes!), but that does not mean pampering your engine like a new born: this is a MACHINE, man, you must give it what it needs: give it a good gun sometimes! WOT! (Wide open throttle!) Revv. up gently ,as you feel the bike: if you can feel it being sort of "refrained" now, you will feel it getting free, gradually, as time goes, and as you increase your speed.

There is some paint burning. Although the exhaust is a double wall, it's paint does get hot! On top of that, there are a few rubber hoses hanging down behind your engine , and they DO get hot!! That's all "normal" - I mean: it should NOT be but it IS on all these models!

Gear-shift will ease with time too: don't worry!

However, if I am not for brutal running in (neither pampering!), I am ALL for multiple oil changes! And filter! For every penny you "save" now, you will spend two in the future! Specially if you have been riding very slowly, you will have carbon deposits: you now need to get them burnt away, and many will end up in the oil. Just GO, go, go, to 6/7,000 rpm, WOT (not for long!), make sure engine does not heat, and do it again, and again...! Then change oil and filter!

Rear brake: it is absolute CRAP, S****T, and a real shame Yamaha saved a few rupees there: bike DOES deserve a disc! Nearly ALL (I am in Vietnam) have got a disc fitted on their bikes here!

The gears will smoothen out post 1st service.. Use Motul 3000V 20W 40 mineral oil and do replace to Oil filter. The brake bite can be easily adjusted by you or by any roadside mechanic. Follow the riding technique that has been posted against Jonahmano's earlier queries to smoothen out the ride.

The burning smell will go post 1st service or else.. Check the exhaust properly for any mud, grime or plastic sticking to it.. That usually causes the bruning smell.

The clutch cable needs adjustment and the SVC guys have not done it properly. Ensure when you are getting the 1st service done, the mechanic does check the battery water level and he applies grease or petroleum jelly on the terminals.

@ALL: Ever since, I have reverted to stock I am feeling very bored riding my FZ... Probably because of muscle memory and my ears tuned to the FFE.. I have inadvertently ended up doing quite a few rounds of wrong gears and hitting neutral many times.. So now eagerly awaiting for the FFE to come back from plating so that I can resume the task of scaring the pants of pedestrians with my FFE .. Kidding.. The stock performance seriously sucks..

Cheers,

A quick question actually couple of them-

1. What is difference between Motul 3000 T 20W40 and Yamalube Mineral oil?
2. Is there any difference in smoothness (Engine and gear) observed when used Motul 3000 T 20W40 instead of Yamalube Mineral?

1. service it after one month or you will loose your warranty.
2. nothing will happen if you revved the engine a couple of times.
3. many vibrations will dial down and smoothening of gear shifts will take place slowly. be relaxed about the 55kmph vibes.
4. chk if the idle rpm is above 1200. if yes then it is more than normal normal rpm should be between 1000-1200...

thanks for the reply buddy.......but the idle rpm is greater than 1500.....in between 1500-2000 rpm......what is the cause for that?? How to correct it?

guys……few a doubts……(it may sound ridiculous but still) …!!…..i just brought my new fazer…cyber green……haven't done my 1st servicing…..yet…completed 480+ kms…..
1) when should i service it? only after completion of 1000 kms or after one month of purchase?

Servicing will be after 1000 kms or after 30 days from the date of purchase (whichever comes earlier)

2) since i m newbie into biking (just learnt) few times throttled it very hard…went above 6k rpm (due to false neutral)…..though never crossed 55KM/hr as suggested by Yamaha guy. will this cause any problem to my bike’s engine?

Going above 6k RPM by chance is not at a problem. The manual says that prolonged operation @ 6k RPM will harm the engine. Treat her well according to the manual. Try to be soft with her till atleast 900 km then you can slowly open the throttle. Like changing the gears at 3.5-4.5k RPM and handling her softly

3) when i near to 55KM/hr i feel some vibrations will it be rectified after 1st servicing?

Yeah there are vibrations and also difficult in gear shifting during the first 1000 kms but as the time goes by everything will become butter smooth

4) After riding for a time while waiting at traffic my idle rpm is bit high than usual time (as i feel)…i mean i feel as if the throttle is stuck in between even though its not….why is this so???

Idle RPM must be 1300 according to the manual but you can set it between 1300-1500 RPM. Don't touch the carburettor till 5k kms. You can see the idle screw near the carburettor where you can set if your RPM is higher than the range, just turn anti-clockwise to reduce the RPM. But do all this when your engine is warm, I mean when you rode atleast 10-15 kms



please help ....!!

A quick question actually couple of them-

1. What is difference between Motul 3000 T 20W40 and Yamalube Mineral oil?

If you ask difference then it's very difficult to explain because you need to be expert in finding out the real difference


2. Is there any difference in smoothness (Engine and gear) observed when used Motul 3000 T 20W40 instead of Yamalube Mineral?

Yeah, absouletly, After pouring this Motu product in my bike, I can see the gear shifting very smooth, I mean butter smooth and also there is no starting problem like earlier. Gear is not getting stuck as it was before. Can't comment on engine smoothness because I have started ripping the babe.