Bro try this.---- when you are slowing down at that time down shift the gear gradually ...ie while downshifting change gear at 2000rpm and below....dont change from top to 2 or 1st while standing....if u do so you will have the problem u have mentioned. In a better way let me tell that alwez keep the bike in the gear from which you can pull the bike without any jerk. i.e at stand still position u can pull the bike at 1 st gear and even 2nd but its difficult on 3rd.... try this process

You are right!

What is asked, if I understand it right, is if the whole exhaust after the resonator and catalytic converted (also called "midship muffler" by Yamaha) can be removed, to look (and sound?) like the KTM Duke 200?
My answer there will also be a definite NO. The resonator is not a muffler, and it houses parts that divert some of the gases through the catalytic converter (the external loop)
See this picture about that:



However, for those who may be tempted to remove the catalytic converter and all the loops and perforated pipes inside the resonator, the answer is YES....and this answer comes from ...Joel Joseph, who even suggested to remove the whole thing and replace it by a piece of pipe "to remove all the obstructions" (his words).
That is one thing he does for his Free Flow Exhaust, BUT ALSO A LOT OF OTHER REFINEMENTS, and what other aftermarket exhaust suppliers do too. See the complete line form Yamato, designed specifically for the FZ16:



....or by Yoshimura:



....but this is no amateur's job, effectively, rather a complex one!!

For my (modified= 200cc.) engine, I had a temporary header pipe made in mild steel, thick wall, and of the same (smallish) diameter all long up to where it connected to the (aftermarket) muffler. Very good: constant torque all the way, and a real will of the engine to rev-up, and this with the db. killer fitted on the muffler, giving a very acceptable sound level!
Then I had a lovely stainless steel one made of the same OUTER diameter as the stock one, and then increasing to fit into the (exaggerated) inlet size of the muffler.

I lost power!!!! Could only accept to have the db. killer removed, lost much torque anyway, and I feel embarrassed when driving through residential ares with the NOISE the thing does!!! Header pipe too big!

Then (again) kind Sir Joel came to the rescue. One thing he told me, and that is not at all obvious when looking at it, is that the stock header pipe of the FZ is a double wall, meaning there is a second pipe fitted inside the outer one, much smaller! Thinking I was smart just following the stock outer diameter was...a plain mistake! He also showed a real gentleman and gave me the basic dimensions (diameters and lengths) to suit my 200cc. engine. Will get that done soon and post pics then.

No need to say that all the new parts I shall fit from now onwards (camshaft, air filter, race clutch springs...) will come from Race Concepts! So sorry I ( and Mik!) did not order exclusively from him right from the beginning instead or Indonesian automotivespartsshop mistake

i m facing this issue for long time, it seems to be an issue with FZ16 gears or more with clutch setting, get the clutch set, it should solve, and all the mechanics are dumb and i haven't found any who can solve the problems if you tell them, they feel owner is dumb and only they have all knowledge, the pet answer we will get, "ye to bilkul theek hai, sabhi bikes mein aise he hai". Describe the issue and tell them to set the clutch

thankyou!... and by the way i do follow the way you've just mentioned...
im just a city cruiser.. at present am not straining the bike with more rpms but keeping it under 4.5k... i didnt check the mileage yet... ill keep you posted


are you asking me to shift down one gear at a time while clutching and declutching? is the the correct way ?? or a solution to my problem?


this happens while nearing a signal or a bump or some obstacle where i have to slow down from say 60kmph to 15kmph or stand still..

many tell the same.. hope it gets resolved!

actually this happens in case of emergencies... say i have to reduce from 60kmph to 20kmph... but eventhough i downshift gradually (say 2-3max gears) i get stuck after shifting 1 gear!

My bike Suzuki SS+ had this problem,at every service i report this issue and they adjust clutch and gear-shifting losses its smoothness for a week or so, But now after about 9 Services downshifting issue is resolved almost completly

Dont worry . its a common problem i guess. Even i face the same thing. just alweys try to keep the bike in the gear from which the bike will be able to pull. and if u stop at 5th and then try to down shift this will happen but it wont happen when u r rolling

Its the right way.

It's okay man don't concentrate on that too much. There are lots of things to check in run-in period. Your mind is on different things like checking the RPM meter because this bike is so aggressive that if you lose your concentration then it land you up like you are in a race track. So don't bother these things. Even if you get stuck, have patience just rev slightly a bit and you get your gears working. Complete your run-in period wisely. As my friend says it will treat you back the way you treated her.

I'd like to share a funny experience. One of my friend was accompanying me to a 35km journey one Sunday morning and at that time bike was just 350kms ODO. He didn't ask to ride my bike but I gave him (As I always do, my character). Before giving the bike I gave him orders. Change the gears between 3-3.5 RPM and your cruising speed will range from 41-48 km/hr with variations. This fella rode the bike as I told with much difficulty and while returning he said that he was done with the riding and he wanted me to see how I rode. And when he observed my riding style, he was marveled at my patience towards the bike. He thought how a 80km/hr cruising guy keep the bike's speed at 41-45 km/hr???

The truth I want to say is I'm not enjoying the run-in period. I'm waiting to rip my babe hard overtaking all......

Its actually not about speed. You can take the bike till 100Kmph if you want. But the key factor is that you take it there steadily and gently, by not ripping at all. Even if you're keeping the run in mark at 3.5k and you're ripping it from idle till it reaches 3.5k to ease off isnt good, and completely overrules the purpose of run in.

If you are still riding her at 3.5 - 4k rpm after crossing 750 kms then the run in process is not right. Post 500 kms as per the manual you can take her till 6000 rpm... Vary the throttle and keep her close to 6k rpm and then alter yout throttle to keep her at 6k for some time and then bring it down, in between do a gear change and then again push her to 6k. The objective here is to give better load to the engine and its internal's to break in the engine properly. In between take her all the way to the red line but only for about 10-15 seconds and then bring her back to 6k rpm or lesser. Its like making your bike go through a gym routine.. .. Proper loading more muscles and endurance..

For those who are facing gear problems on their new FZs.. If you engage gear once then leave the clutch and then engage clutch to change gear.. If the gear is not changing repeat the same process.. You will see the difference.. This usually happens till 2-3k kms as far as my experience is concerned. Once, the parts hit the correct tolerences and you put good engine oil.. The shifting will be butter smooth. For the whole process, the bike needs to be in motion and not stationary say in a signal or something. During your coming service get the clutch lever tension settings checked.

For older bikes if the gears are still hard.. One needs to check the engine oil level, clutch return spring to be checked once and also if possible move to another brand of engine oil. If one has crossed 15000 kms or are close to 20k kms then it is time to replace the clutch cable. Remember the cable comes as a whole set along with the plastic protection cover on top and not just the steel cable alone. Costs around Rs.85 (Prices may vary outside Mumbai).

Cheers,

Just a simple but noob query guys, had changed my engine oil (yamalube semi synthetic) almost 140 days earlier & had ridden only 1100 kms , so do I need to change my engine oil now or can I still run it for 500 - 1000 kms (say 70 more days till the next service). Asked such question because heard that engine oils had a certian life span after poured in engine due to oxidization.

Quick question

Just a quick question,It's been a year since i got my Yamaha Fz-s great bike done a little above 15k's and now battery has gone kaput and out of warranty,so which is the best battery for this bike? Sorry,Not sure about batteries and stuff.
Also,due to heavy rains and muddy terrain the chain looses it's smoothiness soon :\ how can that be prevented?

Thanks.

Yes, engine oils have a certain lifespan, but don't worry: you are still well inside with about a half a year, even if you only did 1,100 km! With this oil, you can do another six months and that distance again, no problem!

You can, however, have a "look" at the oil: rub your fingers with oil on them , look at the color, smell it (all this compared with brand new oil), etc... Will give you a lot of info on its condition.

Amaron or Exide

me with exide BikerZ (850rs after exchanging) for last six month its good and me happy..