I am not an expert or something but the most obvious thing I can think of is that your friends may have ripped it and crossed the limit of 40km/hr in your running-in period and that may have resulted in getting low mileage.
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First of, your language is annoying. Avoid using the chat/sms lingo here.Originally posted by asd_bey View Post
I am not an expert or something but the most obvious thing I can think of is that your friends may have ripped it and crossed the limit of 40km/hr in your running-in period and that may have resulted in getting low mileage.Yamaha Fazer [2011]
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whats the problem you are facing?Originally posted by asd_bey View Posthi everyone.
Please do have some patience to read my full post
Im DAS and im new to XBHP.
i bought yamaha FZ-16 last feburary.
so here goes ma story.....
i bought ma bike on 7.2.2012 and was ridin it at 40kmph... i was so conscious and wanted ma bike to stay healthy.but,
on 24th of feb (jus after 17 days) i met wid an accident.... (not much of an accident cos only d footrest of ma bike was bend in dat accident)
dint fall off r anything like dat,but I TOOK D DAMAGE.... MY LEG WAS BADLY HURT...!!!!
K....
NOW TO MY PROB..
d prob is while i was in hospital my frnds used ma bike for like 3 weeks and i personnaly feel dat d engine is not on a good cmdtn as it was b4 d accident.... and i was gettin milage like 42-48 kmpl (believe it r not but i just got dat milage) earlier but now only around 36kmpl...
now im striving hard to maintain ma bike....
MOREOVER DIS IS MA FIRST BIKE....!!!! AND I LOVE IT SOOOOOO........MUCH....!!!!!
XBNPIANS PLSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS HELP ME WID UR TECHNICAL ADVISE........!!!!
CHEERS MATE....XDXD
Mileage of 36 is normal. I had mileage if 38 for the first six months (calculated from full tank to full tank, four five times). Now its 40-41.
If you have any specific problem apart from mileage please include the following details with it. What was the odo reading when the accident happened, when was the first service done, how much did the bike run in those 3 weeks?
I personally feel that there is nothing to worry.
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@dnyanesh
sorry man, didn't now that....
and thank you for your quick response....
@muztariq the accident was on 24.2.12...
and the first service was done on 7.3.12...
they rode around 356km to be exact....
and now all i want to know is, can you suggest me some techniques or procedures that i must follow inorder to keep my bike in good condition.
(like increasing my milage)
and how did you increase your milage from 38 to 41kmpl....?
and thank you for your quick response....
CHEERS MATE....XDXDLast edited by asd_bey; 04-23-2012, 01:28 AM.CHEERS MATE.....XDXD
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Originally posted by muztariq View Postthis bike is not for constant rides above 100 km/hr.. People who ask for what bike and keep fz or fzr on their list, i just tell them if you want constant rides above 100 this is not the bike for you.
You should have gone for a karizma or p220 in that case..
If you have not opted for any performance upgrades, 80-90 km/ hr cruise with occasional breaks is very much doable(safely).
A fellow member greenknight also visits svc too very often coz of this.. U can ask him :-)
When I read your post in the morning, the first thing that came to my mind was - 2000 km/ month usage!! Thats good, but comes under severe usage - you should take double care of the bike. Change your engine oil every month (2000 kms). Use higher viscosity oil, XXw50 grade. Keep a check on the oil levels more often etc etc.
Dont listen to rumours like old engine new bike etc.. If you look at the pattern, your bike gives big problems every 15k kms.
Regarding punctures, if you are on stock rear tire - its time to replace it. Well maintained bikes have done it at 20- 25k.
If you are on stock chain set - you have maintained it quite well as guys are forced to change if from as early as 15k - 20k kms.. But you should change it now..
And last piece of advice for you - dont rip off when the engine is cold..
( i think i have overdone it ) :-)
no u havent over done it...thanx for a grt piece of advice...there was a tym wen i used to ride alot..bt from last one montth m not..changed my stock tyre today..went for CONTINENTAL CONTI GO.. adn abt the parts i have to change.. i will change them for sure next week..n will make a point of not over riding it on high speeds..i think dat was d main prob with my riding..newaz can u plz tell me which is the best engine oil..i think nw d monthly usage will be arund 700kms..not more dan dat....and shuld the chain set be of YAMAHA or there is some other better than it...
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Yes bro, rust on just two month old bikeOriginally posted by muztariq View Post
. The service guy said that, this is because water must be poured over there while cleaning. I took his word, although not 100% convinced with the answer. Water will be there while it rains, in that case, the rusting will be more rapid than this
Also, after i did the chain cleaning and lube at the YSC, my bike has started feeling a bit heavy. The bike does not zoom off properly as earlier it use to, really don't know the reason. I literally turn my accelerator fully to get my bike going
. Will have to visit the YSC once again.
The real beauty lies in throttle's twist!!
Headlight can be replaced, Head cannot be. Wear a helmet.
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First of all; a chain can rust irrespective of how old or new it is. Rusting is not aging phenomena it is a chemical phenomena which occurs in the presence of oxygen, water and air moisture. The service person is right when he told you that its due to water while cleaning. What was wrong was that the chain should have been inspected after cleaning and lubed if required to prevent the rusting from taking place. When a chain is lubed its not just for lubrication, its also to form a protective film over the links to prevent water from getting in contact with the links.Originally posted by devils_friend View PostYes bro, rust on just two month old bike
. The service guy said that, this is because water must be poured over there while cleaning. I took his word, although not 100% convinced with the answer. Water will be there while it rains, in that case, the rusting will be more rapid than this
Also, after i did the chain cleaning and lube at the YSC, my bike has started feeling a bit heavy. The bike does not zoom off properly as earlier it use to, really don't know the reason. I literally turn my accelerator fully to get my bike going
. Will have to visit the YSC once again.
Secondly, get the chain tension checked again. It seems that the chain may be too tight.Only a biker knows why a dog sticks his head out of a car window.
Multum in Parvo - Much in Little
"Yes, it is FAST! No, you CAN'T ride it!" - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...a-300-san.html
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if you are damn concerned about the mileage, why did you buy this bike? and getting 38kmpl isn't bad, actually it is a good mileage for fz/fazer.Originally posted by asd_bey View Postand now all i want to know is, can you suggest me some techniques or procedures that i must follow inorder to keep my bike in good condition.
(like increasing my milage)
and how did you increase your milage from 38 to 41kmpl....?
and thank you for your quick response....
if you wanna increse your mileage 38 to 41.. then, ride below 45kmph, check tyre pressure once in 2 weeks, lube the chain, avoid sudden acceleration and braking.Yamaha YZF-R15
Riding a motorcycle is like living in a video game where people are trying to kill you.
Rjays swift riding jacket reviewed in detail || Cramster twister gloves reviewed
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my bikes mileage got increased all by itself.. I didnt notice when it increased, but may be after carb cleaning the mechanic did change idle rpms a little.. It is a very minor increase. One should learn to enjoy the ride and a mileage for 36 or 40 is so less a change to burn the brain for..Originally posted by asd_bey View Post@dnyanesh
sorry man, didn't now that....
and thank you for your quick response....
@muztariq the accident was on 24.2.12...
and the first service was done on 7.3.12...
they rode around 356km to be exact....
and now all i want to know is, can you suggest me some techniques or procedures that i must follow inorder to keep my bike in good condition.
(like increasing my milage)
and how did you increase your milage from 38 to 41kmpl....?
and thank you for your quick response....
CHEERS MATE....XDXD
as you will be going for piston and cylinder work.. The first thing to do is - repeat the engine breakin procedure for the first 1000 km.. Use standard yamalube 20w40 mineral oil for those 1000 kms. After that, if you want to run the bike fast for long duration try using 20w50 oils - pulsar dtsi 10000 mineral oil is one option. Motul 15w50 semisynthetic (used in r15) is another option. Motul 15w50 300v fullyS oil is another option.. There are many other choices.. Please goto engine oil thread for it.Originally posted by khalidkh1 View Postabt the parts i have to change.. i will change them for sure next week..n will make a point of not over riding it on high speeds..i think dat was d main prob with my riding..newaz can u plz tell me which is the best engine oil..i think nw d monthly usage will be arund 700kms..not more dan dat....and shuld the chain set be of YAMAHA or there is some other better than it...
Chainset from yamaha is the best option.. 1200-1300 as per previous posts. There is also a daytona (golden) chainset which is around 3-4 times costly than the stock..
i agree with abhimanyu that its a chemical reaction.. But this is a slow chemical reaction and can be corelated to ageing.Originally posted by devils_friend View PostYes bro, rust on just two month old bike
. The service guy said that, this is because water must be poured over there while cleaning. I took his word, although not 100% convinced with the answer. Water will be there while it rains, in that case, the rusting will be more rapid than this
.
A bike thats 2 months old and whose chain was atleast lubricated at 1 month service, when shows rust is a matter of concern and also surprising. It cant be the fault of the user alone but some sort of manufacturing defect which led to this early rusting.. The only way to minimise it is by good generous lubrication every other week or so.. All moving parts like joints of bike stand , footrests, chain, clutch lever, throttle lever etc needs lubrication after every water wash.. I am forced even to lubricate the key and insert it in the main lock otherwise the lock resists a lot to open the next morning after a water wash.Last edited by muztariq; 04-23-2012, 05:41 PM.
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Yes bro, agree with you that it is a phenomenon, i was a bit shocked to see rusting on just two month old chain. My neighbor, who has been using his Honda Shine for almost 4 years, i saw the chain and was surprised to see the difference between 4 year old bike and 2 month old bike. Seeing this, i was a bit paranoid.Originally posted by abhimanyu31 View PostFirst of all; a chain can rust irrespective of how old or new it is. Rusting is not aging phenomena it is a chemical phenomena which occurs in the presence of oxygen, water and air moisture. The service person is right when he told you that its due to water while cleaning. What was wrong was that the chain should have been inspected after cleaning and lubed if required to prevent the rusting from taking place. When a chain is lubed its not just for lubrication, its also to form a protective film over the links to prevent water from getting in contact with the links.
Secondly, get the chain tension checked again. It seems that the chain may be too tight.
Regarding, the chain tension, i will get it checked up again. Although, the chain cleaning and lubrication was done infront of me. The chains tension was not adjusted. But still, will check it at YSC.
Thanks for the reply.
I guess the humid weather of Bombay is also the culprit. I do try to keep my bike in tip top condition to avoid any major disaster (money wiseOriginally posted by muztariq View Posti agree with abhimanyu that its a chemical reaction.. But this is a slow chemical reaction and can be corelated to ageing.
A bike thats 2 months old and whose chain was atleast lubricated at 1 month service, when shows rust is a matter of concern and also surprising. It cant be the fault of the user alone but some sort of manufacturing defect which led to this early rusting.. The only way to minimise it is by good generous lubrication every other week or so.. All moving parts like joints of bike stand , footrests, chain, clutch lever, throttle lever etc needs lubrication after every water wash.. I am forced even to lubricate the key and insert it in the main lock otherwise the lock resists a lot to open the next morning after a water wash.
)
The real beauty lies in throttle's twist!!
Headlight can be replaced, Head cannot be. Wear a helmet.
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If you ride sanely then i would highly recommend Motul 300V 15W 50 Double Ester Fully Synthetic Oil. I am now on 4900 kms with it.. and besides a precautionary 30ml top up.. the oil level has not gone down at all and my ride is still smooth as hell. Although, price wise, it is bit on the steep side.. around Rs. 950/- for 1 ltr bottle. But then again it is compensated by the long service interval required for the same. I am not to sure sure whether one can push riding with FS Oil to even longer duration.. but there have been reports from Bullet riders on team-bhp who have gone upto 8k kms without any problem whatsoever. however, as a precautionary measure 5000 kms interval servicing is good enough for me.. Below is the mail response I received from a Motul Representative:Originally posted by khalidkh1 View Postno u havent over done it...thanx for a grt piece of advice...there was a tym wen i used to ride alot..bt from last one montth m not..changed my stock tyre today..went for CONTINENTAL CONTI GO.. adn abt the parts i have to change.. i will change them for sure next week..n will make a point of not over riding it on high speeds..i think dat was d main prob with my riding..newaz can u plz tell me which is the best engine oil..i think nw d monthly usage will be arund 700kms..not more dan dat....and shuld the chain set be of YAMAHA or there is some other better than it...
Dear Mr. Shv18:
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Thank you for your mail and for your interest in Motul products.
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A synthetic oil like 300V can offer double the drain period of a mineral oil; you may change the oil at 10,000 km if you wish. However, if you feel the drain interval of 10,000 km to be long, you may get the oil change done at, say, 7000-7500 km.
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At the end of the day, the oil change interval – whether at 5000, 7500 or 10,000 km – depends on the biker’s personal preference and comfort level.
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Trust this answers your query.
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Please do keep writing in with your feedback/queries.
Thank you once again for your interest in Motul products.
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Wish you Happy and Safe Biking with Motul!
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Best regards,
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Sandeep Bhat
MOTUL India. 65,388 पसंद · 579 इस बारे में बात कर रहे हैं. For information on MOTUL India, please visit us at www.motul.in
+91 9820410736
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If you intend to do highway rides at 90+kmph then i would suggest using inexpensive 15T Front sprocket mod which will allow your engine to run at lower revs. Mind you though the gearing will change and your rides lower grunt will be altered. you can look for either Honda Unicorn /Bajaj Pulsar front 15 T Sprocket for the same.
Cheers,A quote by a toilet, " use me well, keep me clean, i would never tell anybody whatever i have seen.." :P
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One more to prove Fantastically Bad product quality of Yamaha
Since last few days I was seeing some oily buildup at Fuel ON/OFF knob, went to the ASC and the all-knowing service engineer just gave it a glance and said the knob has gone and have to replace it. The oily buildup was nothing but dried petrol. So, I took the next available appointment from him and got it replaced.
Happy that there wont be anymore leakages filled up petrol and by the time I reached home I could see that petrol is still leaking. Cursed the ASC for the fantastic job they had done. As it was Sat'day evening I had to wait till Monday, so emptied as much as I can and waited for Monday.
On Monday, went to the ASC and showed that the replacement didnt work. This time they checked if the problem was with new knob and then took the tank side panels and found that there is a hole in the tank

There was rust at many weld joints too. (dont have a pic for it)
Damn Yamaha. They cant even make a proper fuel tank.
I asked him what is the warranty period for fuel tank and can it be replaced, to which he responded 365 days and my bike is 2.5 yrs old. He said M-Seal zindabad, as he doesnt have stock for replacement and new one, if I order will take 15 days to come, so I also said M-Seal Zindabad.
Lesson Learnt: Yes Yamaha is only for Ads, reality is NO Yamaha.
Was waiting for a 250 upgrade from Yamaha, I dont think I have to wait anymore. Thanks to KTM and Kawasaki.
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Well if you are planning to rip your bike you need to take precautions. Engine oil check, cooling breaks, no ripping on cold engine, chain lubing, clutch adjustments. It's not an liquid cooled, fuel injected bike but can take a lot of thrashing with care.Originally posted by muztariq View Postthis bike is not for constant rides above 100 km/hr.. People who ask for what bike and keep fz or fzr on their list, i just tell them if you want constant rides above 100 this is not the bike for you.
You should have gone for a karizma or p220 in that case..
If you have not opted for any performance upgrades, 80-90 km/ hr cruise with occasional breaks is very much doable(safely).
A fellow member greenknight also visits svc too very often coz of this.. U can ask him :-)
When I read your post in the morning, the first thing that came to my mind was - 2000 km/ month usage!! Thats good, but comes under severe usage - you should take double care of the bike. Change your engine oil every month (2000 kms). Use higher viscosity oil, XXw50 grade. Keep a check on the oil levels more often etc etc.
Dont listen to rumours like old engine new bike etc.. If you look at the pattern, your bike gives big problems every 15k kms.
Regarding punctures, if you are on stock rear tire - its time to replace it. Well maintained bikes have done it at 20- 25k.
If you are on stock chain set - you have maintained it quite well as guys are forced to change if from as early as 15k - 20k kms.. But you should change it now..
And last piece of advice for you - dont rip off when the engine is cold..
( i think i have overdone it ) :-)
I just replaced a dead primary driven gear and royally burnt clutch plates.
But then who cares.. Its a joy to ride with the confidence and comfort that comes in the package...
Yamaha Fazer 2011 13600km in 8 months and counting
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i am thinkin of upgrading the engine by the JOEL's customization BIG BORE KIT, FFE and BIG CARB...hav any of your known have done it...and if yes how is the performance..I dont under estimate his work..but still want to know the performance of the bike by the one who is using it..and is there any other customization apart from this which i have to do to increase the performance...now i dont ride it much apart from weekends and that too usually on highways..the top speed on stock was 127kmph which i have done in January'12..does this upgradation will increase my top speeed or it will be same....Originally posted by shv18 View Postwww.motul.in
www.facebook.com/motulindia
+91 9820410736
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If you intend to do highway rides at 90+kmph then i would suggest using inexpensive 15T Front sprocket mod which will allow your engine to run at lower revs. Mind you though the gearing will change and your rides lower grunt will be altered. you can look for either Honda Unicorn /Bajaj Pulsar front 15 T Sprocket for the same.
Cheers,
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If you take the time of reading through this extremely long thread, or go to "pit stop" and look for the three (or more?) threads on work by Joel Joseph/ Race Concepts, you will find all the answers you need.Originally posted by khalidkh1 View Posti am thinkin of upgrading the engine by the JOEL's customization BIG BORE KIT, FFE and BIG CARB...
One person against who you must be warned (although I don't know why would anyone in India order from this one who is in Indonesia?), is Haryono Adigunawan, of Automotivespartsshop.com: severely defective items, not at all "plug-and-play", extremely long delays, repeated lies, wrong deliveries, parts that don't match together....the list seems infinite!When I do something stupid, my consolation is to know that I'll do the worse one only once!
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The coatings on Yamaha FZ, Fazer, etc... are absolutely miserable, that is a fact. Seems the only good part is the engine....and the design . I do not mean the aesthetics, but the general architecture, which is excellent.Originally posted by jkhan69 View Post.....Damn Yamaha. They cant even make a proper fuel tank.......Lesson Learnt: Yes Yamaha is only for Ads, reality is NO Yamaha.
Was waiting for a 250 upgrade from Yamaha, I dont think I have to wait anymore. Thanks to KTM and Kawasaki.
So why is a bike that would have otherwise been one of the top bikes of it's generation have to be degraded by the ignominious lack of care and of quality control by Yamaha India staff???
When I do something stupid, my consolation is to know that I'll do the worse one only once!
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