Re: Honda CBR 250R

Even I had the same thought. I'm using Mrf revz radial front and back. I just don't feel 29 & 32 respectively are adequate. And my front tyre has a lotta puncture now. Can it be cuz of the tyre pressure?

Re: Honda CBR 250R

After draining the fuel to the bottom again for one more time now the foul smell from the exhaust is gone during initial idling. I believe the issue is resolved now. Will update if any things happens. Hope it doesn't. Also changed the fuel station where I fill fuel as of now. (Hp to BP)

Got my cone set checked and it was loose as you said and after tightening it's Ohk now. Thank you.

Still couldn't get the rubber cap for RVMs. It might get rusted due to the cold climate here. Have to find a solution for it soon.

Re: Weird sound from engine (CBR250R)

I visited 2 more ASCs to get further ideas on it and one of them were totally clueless about the issue. The technician told that his brother-in-law also has the same issue :P

The other ASC has suggested that the sound is from Crankshaft so crankshaft and camshaft needs to be replaced which costs around Rs. 13000.
Please help guys.

Re: Weird sound from engine (CBR250R)

<p>
<br />
<br />
I have faced same problem in my cbr250r they changed the shims and arm and camshaft and this solved the problem. at that time mine was ridden about 14k. Nothing else. Sound is more like shims problem.<br />
<br />
i guess the asc is right. as you can read i too have faced this problem.</p>

Re: Weird sound from engine (CBR250R)

I had a similar problem. What they said was that the noise was because of the chain tensioner. So it was replaced and it was good for some 200kms. Then again they asked me to replace the chain tensioner for which I did. It costs around 636Rs. I was pissed off. I examined the old one it was good.

I gathered info from local mechanics and read many articles online. The spring inside the tensioner tends to gets loose as the bolt holding the spring doesn't have enough groves or the bolt is loosening frequently. So finally I decided to replace the chain tensioner bolt with a manual DIY. I bought a 10mm bolt that is long enough and replaced it. You have to remove the tensioner check the spring and then install the new bolt. I'll post a pic sooner for clear idea.

Now finally that noise is gone. Did this some 4 months back. Try and let me know if it helped. Get some help from local mechanics of you are not sure of what to do.

Re: Weird sound from engine (CBR250R)

Maneesh, it would be really helpful if you can post some pictures along with the procedures done, or if you can reconstruct it with some pictures, it would really come in handy to folks around here.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: Weird sound from engine (CBR250R)

In my case it looks like the sound is from crank as confirmed by the second ASC. I showed it to one of my relatives who has worked as a Senior technician in TVS ASC and he also confirmed that the sound is from crank so I think the camshaft and crank needs to be checked. I'll show it to that second ASC and will update here

Thanks Speedyking

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The first time when I noticed the sound, ASC guys changed the chain tensioner but that didn't resolve the issue. Changing it second time and third time worked for around 1000 KMs. Tried it this time also by installing new tensioner and rocker arms as well but that didn't resolve the issue even for 10 KMs so I think its not the tensioner. I have also checked with one my relatives who is quite knowledge on this and he has also confirmed that the sound is somewhere related to crank. I'll show it to that second ASC who suspected the crank. However, I would still like to know the method you suggested about the tensioner and would try it. I would really appreciate if you share the pics with us here as that will be helpful for everybody

Re: Weird sound from engine (CBR250R)

I had the similar issue too. My bike would make ticking noise when idling cold starts but once the engine reaches it optimum temperature ( 3 bars) then the ticking would come after every 10-15 seconds for around 3 seconds and after like 5 mins of idling no more tick tick sound the engine becomes normal, but sometimes very rarely it could be heard at around 3.5-6k rpm when i did full throttle.
I took it to the svc and they changed the tensioner and everything got fixed by changing that , but now after like 1k km done it again started but this time it comes when the engine isat operating temperature and when the rpm is around 2-3.5k. It actually made city riding very irritating as the engine is always at low rpms and the ticking sound is continous.

So should i change it again ? and again as im guessing it would come up again after changing back to back
( Bike is in warranty )

Thanks
-Zaid

Re: Weird sound from engine (CBR250R)

Ohk guys its my pleasure! Ill post a write up with pics for the chain tensioner bolt ASAP. Being the start of the week im a little held up, please excuse me for 2 days. Im sorry.

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Definitely looks like typical chain tensioner problem!

If the bike is under warranty and if they are changing the tensioner for free why not? But i dont think they will change it this time if you go back, they might remove and adjust the spring and put it back. So that the sound will stop for a brief time and will again start coming back after a few kms.

Either you could get it changed and wait for the problem to arise again or do a DIY and get rid of that problem.

Re: Weird sound from engine (CBR250R)

I better wait for your DIY rather thn just wasting money buying 100s of chain tensioners [emoji14]

Re: Honda CBR 250R Tyre issues

Hey guys, I have been using a smaller rear 140/60 mrf zapper tyres because the rear conti-go kept on puncturing. My front is still stock conti-go, but i think i will change by jan. Im just curious will my rear wheel get affected because of the smaller size. I will change the front and back tyres by jan to stock size mrf or michelin if i got enough money . My rear conti go punctured some 5 times continuously soo visibly annoyed , there was smaller size tyre which was free, courtesy my uncle who has a factory for bikes,go karts...Someone also told me my handling would be affected on the long run, I want to know if there is a problem?Also my service centre advised me to change my chain sprocket completely as it worn out almost, and i've ridden about 16000km, will change at 20000-21000km,

Re: Honda CBR 250R Tyre issues

Stock is 140/70, so Due to the tyre height decrease, the ride may not be plush as before but other than that everything should be ohk. Nothing to worry.

I use mrf radials 110/70 & 150/60 both are performing well. But the front has 5 punctures already.

It is usual for the chain Sprocket to wear out around 16k kms. Better get them changed ASAP. You have to change the Sprocket and chain which would cost around 2200rs. Tyre change is not necessary, but if you are going to change both tyres, try the mrf radials and you ll see increased grip, better performance of course.

Re: Honda CBR 250R Tyre issues

Thanks for the info bro, my old rear conti go used to puncture very regularly and one point it happened some three times in a row, I had a option of switching to a smaller rear tyre free of cost obviously, but yeah I can say cornering was affected a bit and seeing all the other ceebers the bigger rear tyres obviously looked bigger, I feel as if performance maybe affected like pick up, note I'm just speculating, and I will be changing both my rear n front tyre set as the front is almost fully worn out and the rear of a slightly smaller size, my options are 1. Mrf radials-cheap, reliable, best for Indian roads but I've heard its not that great on wet surfaces, 2.Michelin- expensive, very good quality, long lasting, I was suggested Michelin by many but its out of my price range for the moment , 3. Pirelli- expensive, a bit soft, good quality but I've heard pirelli mostly good for the track rather than road use.

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When it comes to airfilters ,i have done a fair bit of research and both the OEM and the aftermarket airfilters have their advantages and disadvantages. Coming to the stock air-filter,Its tried and tested and keeps the engine in good condition, Coming to the aftermarket airfilters i've heard ur engine smoothness increases and also torque and horsepower but they do let in a lot of dirt particles enter into the engine which is obvously bad. I am still considering a K&N air filter but heard stock is the safest, i like to heard other people's takes on this issue. Now coming to exhausts, honestly the stock exhaust is very docile and boring, sometimes i feel the bike kinda like almost stalls at lower rpms, I used a custom exhaust for a brief period and found a lot of difference. It was obviously a lot louder making it easier to get around in traffic as, u always gotta honk to get past someone with ur stock exhaust unless u own a duke or benelli or something,also the torque is way higher and the bike feels a lot smoother in lower revs for example: in the stock exhaust the bike feels like it would stall at 55-59kmph at 6th gear but with the custom pipe i had one it was totally fine and just built up to the higher speed without any problems.Obviously the stock is the tried and tested and even if i change the exhaust ,ill always keep my custom exhaust stored safe just incase. And the pipe i used was custom and it was a bit of testing exhaust and it felt good, i have the opportunity to make a new exhaust,reducing the noise level and making it more street friendly at the same time the stock exhaust weighing a good 5kg,the custom exhaust would weigh less than half. Im considering making a custom exhaust pretty soon, i like to hear other experiences regarding exhausts and air filters if anyone has any?

Cheers,
Ride hard,ride safe.
Raghav.

7000kms+ review of MRF Revz on CBR 250R!

7000kms+ review of MRF Revz on CBR 250R!

It was time for a new set of shoes for her, when the Michelin(rear) and the contigo(front) gave up. The problem was both the tyres were not worn out evenly. It was patchy with bumps. It has not got anything to do with her but the tyres. She had been on stock Contigo, Mrf Zapper y & finally Michelin(all rear tyres).

Stock - worn out unevenly and not grippy.(rear)
Front stock Contigo worn out unevenly so I changed one more again the same thing happened.

MRF Zapper - no problems just worn out after some 20k kms. Wet grip was a big question though.

Michelin - An after market stuff, no warranty, so I had to pay the price of 5500rs. Grip/wet grip was marginally better but nothing worth the money you spend.

Finally I decided to spend money on a VFM product rather than opting for the costly imported deals. I was looking for 140/70 in MRF Revz but they had only 150/60 which is available for the Dukes. So decided to go with it as it wouldn't make up much difference. Front tyres were available in stock size.

Front - MRF Revz FC 110/70 R17 54S - Rs. 2k
Rear - MRF Revz C 150/60 R17 66S - Rs. 3k


Brand new Revz!

The first thing i noticed getting on her after the tyres were fixed was, I felt like there is no tyre pressure and it's hard to turn. So when I checked the tyre pressure it was perfect. I was not happy. But then when I took her out for a spin in the highway I understood that it was the front radial that made all the difference. She had not been on radials at both the ends before. The grip was phenomenal! Amazing!

I was really happy in regards to the choice I made for her. The ride quality hasn't changed and it's very plush as before. It has got a good round profile and cornering efficiency. She had been on it for more than 7000kms and there is no show of the tyres wearing out. We did a Theni - Pune - Theni trip with these tyres. And the problem started while coming back. Random punctures in the front don't know how that happened. The are totally 6 punctures in the front and none at the rear. Though nothing has affected for my style of riding. The pros nd cons are as follows.


Pros:
> Cheap & great VFM.
> Radial tyres.
> Superb wet and dry grip. (not comparable to Metzler though)
> Reliable MRF warranty.
> Perfect touring tyres for cruising on highways & city commutes.

Cons:
> Pathetic gravel grip. (don't even think of off roading with these tyres)
> No stock size available for rear tyre. So due to the unsize the speedo readings are wrong. The calibration has gone worse. When the speedo actually shows 100km/hr you actually do only 90km/hr.
> I can see a drop in mileage of about 1-1.5kmpl
> looks smaller than the Contigos.

Hope the stock would be available soon as more vehicles are coming with 140/70 stock rear tyres like the new Hornet 160R.

The pics after 7000+ kms.


Front with visible punctures. *eye sore*


Rear looking as good as new.

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Unless you are going to track these mods are going to be useless to gain fraction of secs/ 1Bhp more from your bike. From my POV its waste and useless. Try to stick to stock and instead spend on some auxillary mods like lights and other stuff. Else even better if you could invest in riding gear for safety and protection. I dont wanna get into a warzone discussing about this.

Re: 7000kms+ review of MRF Revz on CBR 250R!

Airfilter I think I'll stick to stock, but exhaust I'm fitting a pipe for sometime before I can make my final exhaust, I'll still have my stock exhaust as a backup, or touring, but yeah.Coming to noticing a difference from the stock exhaust n the pipe was quite big. There is a considerable increase in torque for sure, not sure about bhp cause I didn't completely open up the bike ever, like as in traffic it makes a difference because of it being louder people would know I'm behind em, note I'm not that sort of person who fits an exhaust to showoff n all,my experience on my bike jus seemed a lot better in traffic and bike felt smoother in higher n lower revs when compared to the stock which I always needed to cut gears. I haven't opened up my bike because my rear tyre is a 140/60 mrf radial and front is stock conti. I have covered 16000km hoping to change my tyres asap but might have to wait till January, I'm changing to mrf as it seems more cost friendly and better for Indian roads. Now coming to Michelin, u said mrf lasts about 20000km, I've heard u can run Michelin for anywhere between 30000-50000km easily because of its pattern n quality, I maybe wrong but I've heard its super long lasting.And I'm getting my exhaust made for free as I am lucky enough to have uncles who used to be racers and mechs and own a factory with easily 20 plus bikes ranging from RX 100,135, tz 125,250, lc350,rd350 normal n race spec, even a aprilla 350 frame with a tz 250 engine. etc all two strokes but he also mods and does up other bikes. He also nodded the Suzuki gixxer sf one make race spec bike soo build quality is one thing I'm never worried about, hence I'm not spending a penny on my exhaust mod, and in the future thinking of a ECU tuning for the bike to be on par with my final exhaust, obviously a lot of R & D will be dome before I do any tuning l,not necessarily race tuning but jus performance.