Airfilter I think I'll stick to stock, but exhaust I'm fitting a pipe for sometime before I can make my final exhaust, I'll still have my stock exhaust as a backup, or touring, but yeah.Coming to noticing a difference from the stock exhaust n the pipe was quite big. There is a considerable increase in torque for sure, not sure about bhp cause I didn't completely open up the bike ever, like as in traffic it makes a difference because of it being louder people would know I'm behind em, note I'm not that sort of person who fits an exhaust to showoff n all,my experience on my bike jus seemed a lot better in traffic and bike felt smoother in higher n lower revs when compared to the stock which I always needed to cut gears. I haven't opened up my bike because my rear tyre is a 140/60 mrf radial and front is stock conti. I have covered 16000km hoping to change my tyres asap but might have to wait till January, I'm changing to mrf as it seems more cost friendly and better for Indian roads. Now coming to Michelin, u said mrf lasts about 20000km, I've heard u can run Michelin for anywhere between 30000-50000km easily because of its pattern n quality, I maybe wrong but I've heard its super long lasting.And I'm getting my exhaust made for free as I am lucky enough to have uncles who used to be racers and mechs and own a factory with easily 20 plus bikes ranging from RX 100,135, tz 125,250, lc350,rd350 normal n race spec, even a aprilla 350 frame with a tz 250 engine. etc all two strokes but he also mods and does up other bikes. He also nodded the Suzuki gixxer sf one make race spec bike soo build quality is one thing I'm never worried about, hence I'm not spending a penny on my exhaust mod, and in the future thinking of a ECU tuning for the bike to be on par with my final exhaust, obviously a lot of R & D will be dome before I do any tuning l,not necessarily race tuning but jus performance.

Good that you are getting a lotta help. Regarding the Michelin, it definitely wont last long as its a softer compound. Dont even think of 20k on that. Cuz when i changed my from Michelin it had run only 8k+ and it was already deteriorating. What you say might be the case with car tyres(not sure though). Whatever, its your personal choice, at the end of the day you are gonna live with it. As far as from my experience, choose the same brand & compound for both front and rear tires as it would make a lotta difference. I didnt know that until i recently switched to radials from same brand.

. The calibration has gone worse. When the speedo actually shows 100km/hr you actually do only 90km/hr.

Saar!!! The cbr takes speedo reading from inside the crank. How can there be speedo error just by upsizing of tyre please.explain.

I have few problems :

1. The horn goes weak while riding and while the blinkers are turned on ( alternator and battery )

2. Bliping the throttle at higher revvs just shuts the engine off (i guess the ecu cuts off, but wait. I don't blip the throttle at redline. I do it at 5-6k rpm.

3. The bike gasps for breath near 4-5k rpm after I start riding when the temp gauge bar is at 1. After the temp bar reaches 3 points there is no hiccups and it works pretty fine. Its not a 1 day monitoring. I have been witnessing this behaviour since 10-15 days. So I am sure something is wrong or a bit out of place. I have checked the air filter though it has dirt accumulated on it but not so much that the air filter should be discarded.

4. @theironhorse99 (aman), I spoke to few guys on FB (cbr international group) and got few pointers from them to fix the conset. Now I went to that guy to get it fixed, he charges me 500rs to.just remove the conset, grease it and then put back again as the conset did not had any physical damage. After he fixed the conset with his pathetic tools, the handle bar makes thud noise but at low level. When asked to the guy who fixed it he said "yeh spring ka aawaz hai itna aawaz toh rahega hi":banghead:. I said in my mind "chuti@# samjha hai kya" and then drove off. Please somebody from.pune help me so that I can get the conset fixed, I am really desperate for it.

I have checked Yug Honda Pune. As of.now they dont have a CBR mechanic so they can't fix the conset. I also contacted sterling Honda and the mech there is just not interested always a procrastinator

Cheers,
Sanjay

Could somebody read the speed from a GPS device/app when cruising at 100Km/hr and post it for reference?

1. Ur battery is weak i guess. Cuz the indicator is direct to the battery and when it sucks out 21w of power the horn cries if the battery is weak.

2. Might be because of bad fuel. Try draining the fuel and fill it with new fuel and check. We had discussed this few posts back please check.

3. How is the idling? does it gasp during idling with auto choke? (the first time you start the bike for the day)

I have few problems :

1. The horn goes weak while riding and while the blinkers are turned on ( alternator and battery )

2. Bliping the throttle at higher revvs just shuts the engine off (i guess the ecu cuts off, but wait. I don't blip the throttle at redline. I do it at 5-6k rpm.

3. The bike gasps for breath near 4-5k rpm after I start riding when the temp gauge bar is at 1. After the temp bar reaches 3 points there is no hiccups and it works pretty fine. Its not a 1 day monitoring. I have been witnessing this behaviour since 10-15 days. So I am sure something is wrong or a bit out of place. I have checked the air filter though it has dirt accumulated on it but not so much that the air filter should be discarded.



Cheers,
Sanjay

Saar!!!

4. @theironhorse99 (aman), I spoke to few guys on FB (cbr international group) and got few pointers from them to fix the conset. Now I went to that guy to get it fixed, he charges me 500rs to.just remove the conset, grease it and then put back again as the conset did not had any physical damage. After he fixed the conset with his pathetic tools, the handle bar makes thud noise but at low level. When asked to the guy who fixed it he said "yeh spring ka aawaz hai itna aawaz toh rahega hi":banghead:. I said in my mind "chuti@# samjha hai kya" and then drove off. Please somebody from.pune help me so that I can get the conset fixed, I am really desperate for it.

I have checked Yug Honda Pune. As of.now they dont have a CBR mechanic so they can't fix the conset. I also contacted sterling Honda and the mech there is just not interested always a procrastinator

Cheers,
Sanjay

Saar!!! The cbr takes speedo reading from inside the crank. How can there be speedo error just by upsizing of tyre please.explain.
Sanjay

Due to Different diameter of tyres. A smaller tyre (in terms of diameter, not width) will give lower speed at same engine speed. Since speedo is connected to crank. It will indicate higher than the actual speed

Thedo reads 100KMH. When i go higher speeds the error gap increases gradually.

I noticed it cuz, i know the feel when i cruise usually at around 110KMH but it felt little slower than that.

If im wrong please correct me.

Due to Different diameter of tyres. A smaller tyre (in terms of diameter, not width) will give lower speed at same engine speed. Since speedo is connected to crank. It will indicate higher than the actual speed

Saar!!! The cbr takes speedo reading from inside the crank. How can there be speedo error just by upsizing of tyre please.explain.

Simple. Forget the complicated formulas, bigger tire, slower speedo reading, smaller tire, amped up speedo reading.


Cheers!
VJ

You mean bigger tyre, slower actual speed than the speedo reading, smaller tire, amped up actual speed than the speedo reading. The factor is the tyre diameter and not the tyre width.

Precisely, Maneesh. I am talking about the tire diameter, not the width. Consider this even too big a width and too thin a profile can affect speedo readings.

Cheers!
VJ

I had a similar problem. What they said was that the noise was because of the chain tensioner. So it was replaced and it was good for some 200kms. Then again they asked me to replace the chain tensioner for which I did. It costs around 636Rs. I was pissed off. I examined the old one it was good.

I gathered info from local mechanics and read many articles online. The spring inside the tensioner tends to gets loose as the bolt holding the spring doesn't have enough groves or the bolt is loosening frequently. So finally I decided to replace the chain tensioner bolt with a manual DIY. I bought a 10mm bolt that is long enough and replaced it. You have to remove the tensioner check the spring and then install the new bolt. I'll post a pic sooner for clear idea.

Now finally that noise is gone. Did this some 4 months back. Try and let me know if it helped. Get some help from local mechanics of you are not sure of what to do.