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Honda CBR 250R
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Re: Honda CBR 250R
Yes, Karizma ZMR mirrors are a direct fit. Though the stem is a little shorter than CBRs and that won't help eliminate blind spots.Originally posted by Deathwing View PostZmr? Its not the quality of the mirrors but the positioning, I saw this koso mirrors for sale, the positioning looks good.
The one you posted above may show you only your biceps.Got a $5 head? Get a $5 helmet.
Because everyone who passes, isn't a martyr!
Bullet Service Guide CBR 250R Parts Manual Fz16 service manual - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1-...VFQmJzakk/view
Hero Moto Corp Bikes' Parts RE STD 350 Wiring Diagram (CI) Service Manual - Classic 350/500
ZMR parts - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-U...it?usp=sharing
P200NS Spares' prices - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...taGd5R2c#gid=0
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Re: Honda CBR 250R
Does any one know the reason for this - *FITTING RADIAL FRONT TIRES IN COMBINATION WITH BIAS PLY REAR TIRES
IS NEVER ALLOWED! Why??
She is running on MRF Revz radial both front and back. Rear is 150/60 instead of 140/70. Also due to soft nature and my riding environment it is prone to punctures and the side wall is now damaged. The air leak can't be controlled now and it had to be replaced. I'm thinking of Zapper S which is bias type tyre, stock size, but in that case I need to change the front as well.
Can anyone provide me with a better insight for the above mentioned reason? It's said that we can run on bias front and radial rear.Ride Safe!
Cheers,
Maneesh S
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Re: Honda CBR 250R
This may help - http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...h-radial-frontOriginally posted by sman999 View PostDoes any one know the reason for this - *FITTING RADIAL FRONT TIRES IN COMBINATION WITH BIAS PLY REAR TIRES
IS NEVER ALLOWED! Why??
.Got a $5 head? Get a $5 helmet.
Because everyone who passes, isn't a martyr!
Bullet Service Guide CBR 250R Parts Manual Fz16 service manual - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1-...VFQmJzakk/view
Hero Moto Corp Bikes' Parts RE STD 350 Wiring Diagram (CI) Service Manual - Classic 350/500
ZMR parts - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-U...it?usp=sharing
P200NS Spares' prices - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...taGd5R2c#gid=0
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Re: Honda CBR 250R
Thanks Bro.. But it didn't. It would be better if I can find some motorcycle forum discussing abt this issue. I couldn't find one except HD forums and there to no proper reason.Originally posted by Divya Sharan View PostThis may help - http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...h-radial-front
As far I can undersrand from googling both compounds are different, with more front end grip(radials) the rear-end(bias ply) might not cope up with direction change or cornering.Ride Safe!
Cheers,
Maneesh S
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Re: Honda CBR 250R
Yes you yourself answered itOriginally posted by sman999 View PostThanks Bro.. But it didn't. It would be better if I can find some motorcycle forum discussing abt this issue. I couldn't find one except HD forums and there to no proper reason.
As far I can undersrand from googling both compounds are different, with more front end grip(radials) the rear-end(bias ply) might not cope up with direction change or cornering.
Due to improper grip it wouldnt be having a proper grip.
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Re: Honda CBR 250R
I think 150 rear tyres are used on the track CBR s I was thinking of getting 2nd once used track tyres at a low price, but decided to stick to stock size n get mrf, waiting for my front conti to properly wear out.Originally posted by sman999 View PostDoes any one know the reason for this - *FITTING RADIAL FRONT TIRES IN COMBINATION WITH BIAS PLY REAR TIRES
IS NEVER ALLOWED! Why??
She is running on MRF Revz radial both front and back. Rear is 150/60 instead of 140/70. Also due to soft nature and my riding environment it is prone to punctures and the side wall is now damaged. The air leak can't be controlled now and it had to be replaced. I'm thinking of Zapper S which is bias type tyre, stock size, but in that case I need to change the front as well.
Can anyone provide me with a better insight for the above mentioned reason? It's said that we can run on bias front and radial rear.
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Re: Honda CBR 250R
Is the damage to the side wall bad enough to replace the tyre or its loosing air and it cannot be fixed??Originally posted by sman999 View PostDoes any one know the reason for this - *FITTING RADIAL FRONT TIRES IN COMBINATION WITH BIAS PLY REAR TIRES
IS NEVER ALLOWED! Why??
She is running on MRF Revz radial both front and back. Rear is 150/60 instead of 140/70. Also due to soft nature and my riding environment it is prone to punctures and the side wall is now damaged. The air leak can't be controlled now and it had to be replaced. I'm thinking of Zapper S which is bias type tyre, stock size, but in that case I need to change the front as well......
If loosing air is the only issue, you can temporarily use tube inside the tyre and run it until you replace both the tyre. Else you have to go on with other options.
Ram
Sent from my C1904 using xBhp Connect mobile app
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Re: Honda CBR 250R
I checked in MRF tyre point and the guys did some juggad by putting some quick fix & blah blah to fix it temporarily but as soon as I take a pillion the air starts leaking again. It leaks slowly and it comes to 16 psi and stays there for ever.Originally posted by Iam_Hoodi_CBR View PostIs the damage to the side wall bad enough to replace the tyre or its loosing air and it cannot be fixed??
If loosing air is the only issue, you can temporarily use tube inside the tyre and run it until you replace both the tyre. Else you have to go on with other options.
Ram
Sent from my C1904 using xBhp Connect mobile app
I prefer tubeless for easy self puncture repair on the go so I don't wanna put a tube.
The MRF has got phenomenal grip than the Pirelli and it's such a VFM product. The only downside being soft its prone to punctures/damage. It doesn't wear off easily too, it has been more than10k kms and still no signs of wear off.Ride Safe!
Cheers,
Maneesh S
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Re: Honda CBR 250R
I've successfully changed the rear brake fluid. Took me 3 hours - one hour to remove the rusted screw of the fluid container, which was so stubborn, I ended up plucking out the container itself from the bike, holding it upside down and filled new fluid in it. Bled out the old fluid, and closed the nipple. Reconnected the hose, and pumped the brakes a couple times like they said.
Only problem was, there was absolutely no braking at all. There was so much air in the system that when I pressed the pedal at even 1 kmph, the bike didn't stop. So I had to resort to placing two bricks on the pedal, to keep it depressed, overnight.
It took 3 days of the brick trick to get back my original braking power.
Important thing is, I learned something! And got brake fluid all over my hands and the wheel. Which I hosed off. Not exactly professional, but as they say - No brain, no pain!Last edited by leech; 03-08-2016, 10:22 PM.
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Re: Honda CBR 250R
@leech,
Recently encountered similar incidents while flushing the rear brake fluid and changing pads. One of the slider pins was seized. Sprayed WD40 for continuous 2 days (whenever I got time, sprayed few squirts). Removed rear wheel, put bracket with caliper on a vise, hammered it and luckily it came out!!! Cleaned the slider pins thoroughly with grit paper, washed entire components with WD40 (WD40 is a good moisture repellent). Applied silicone grease on pins, endurance rubber boots, added P220 brake pads, and fitted the entire assembly.
While opening up the lid of fluid reservoir, one bolt got free. The nut embedded at the bottom of reservoir was rusted (seems like it was never opened up in last 4 years) and moved inside each time I tried to unscrew. Removed the hose and filled the reservoir with the help of a syringe via its outlet.
Here comes the bleeding part. It's easy once you know the procedure. I poured the brake fluid into hose directly as I was unable to open the lid of reservoir. At the same time, I loosened the bleeding nipple and put a narrow tube to collect the wasted fluid into a bowl. I continued pouring fluid till enough amount fluid came out from bleed nipple. Fixed the hose onto reservoir keeping in mind that there was no air present. Tightened the bleed nipple. Tightened the reservoir to its place.
Started pumping............! After 30 to 40 times of pumping up, I found a little pressure. Opened the bleed nipple, an air bubble went out. Repeated the same at least for 3 to 4 times and finally got the excellent bite!
Thank you!Last edited by arvstreetracer; 03-08-2016, 11:16 PM.-----
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ARVIND K. YADAV
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