the pad size are the same but the notch is different hence does not fit.

Hi Guys,

I have been going through lot of threads on the CBR and but did not see any single thread which lists parts from other bikes that can be used for the Bike. For e.g - we can use Yamaha Oil filter as a direct fit. Can we create one such list that will be a comprehensive parts from other bikes that can be used on our bike. I am creating this list kindly just add on to the list below so that it becomes one comprehensive list.

1) Yamaha Oil filter
2) Pulsar 220 Steel braided line for the front disc


Kindly add anything that you know.

...
@swiftnfurious, that is the mechanical seal that separates the oil the from the coolant. It's a part that is in demand for the most part but they can be sourced with ordering...

Didar Honda in Chennai has 20 parts backlog so far. None of the dealers in Chennai has this part in stock, many parts in TN neither has it. Kun Honda said there is a better chance of getting the part if ordered along with clutch case, wants 1000/- advance for ordering the part and says 15 days lead time for procuring the part. I have a lead that Bangalore centre may have the part - need to confirm it though.

a very mild flicker is normal but if you notice that the display also goes off and the bike does the auto test again with the RPM needle going back and forth then the battery is done its life...

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when the engine is switched off in 99% percent times it halts where the valves are mostly closed so water getting inside the engine can be a feeble possibility.
however the battery is a gone for sure. check for rust and the bushes at swing arm and suspension and engine mounts to be replaced.

water would have gone inside the air filter box all the way through the throttle body hence ask the SVC to remove everything apart and let them sit for them to dry completely and then cleaned with appropriate cleaners only then to be refitted back.

parts to be removed - dried - cleaned as below.

brake lines
brake liners and master caliper
engine block
throttle body
engine oil to be drained and checked if just oil comes out or even water....
swing arm bushes.
rear suspension bushes.
front and rear wheel bearings.
wiring connectors to be removed and checked and cleaned and refitted.
radiator is completely sealed so dont buy new one. remove it and give it a good wash and clean it with toothbrush it will do just fine unless you are getting insurance.

keep us posted you can always PM me for anything else. we are here for you.

do not rotate the crank in any condition unless the throttle body has been removed and the inlet side has been tilted to drain out all the water.
DO NOT. first remove complete engine block. remove filter and throttle body. tilt it. let it sit. and then check. i am sure the water would not have seeped inside the cylinder.

Water getting inside the cylinder is not a serious concern as long as it has a place to go out. So rather than pull the intake off you could just remove the spark plug and crack the motor. All the fluids in the cylinder and intake route would be thrown out via the spark plug hole.

At least that's how we do it with carbureted motorcycles after draining the float.

why risk cranking an engine that might have muddy water inside and give a chance to scratch up the bore. and remember this is a liquid cooled motor, so there is a head gasket also that does a role of keeping coolant out of the block. so the best way for such a calamity would be to take it apart and put it back together with new seals/gaskets/o rings after cleaning and replacing the required parts.

Foose, extremely saddened by the status quo in Kerala, and one can't attest to the fact that how fishermen and all the good souls who were nothing but god sent. Totally power to these guys and hope you guys recover soon.

Though, folks have poured in their views, it seems as though they are missing a very important point. Apart from removing the battery, the bike's AIR FILTER, SPARK PLUG and MOST IMPORTANTLY, the ENGINE OIL MUST BE DRAINED FIRST AND FOREMOST before CRANKING THE ENGINE. The reason here is why, to keep it in layman's terms.

Water enters into the combustion chamber via floodef air filter box/air intake. Water enters in the same intake as air enters. So, what happens is, your airbox is full of water and the moment you crank the engine, the water floods the combustion chamber, hydrolocks the engine and BOOM, you have an engine seizure or worse bent conrod or a combination of both. Oil for the same reason, is mixed by water when the water enters the combustion chamber and is flooded, so when you crank, it's a solid double whammy to the engine.

First off, remove the SPARK PLUG, first and foremost, remove the battery and then drain the entire engine oil with the coolant. Wash the bike thoroughly after this procedure. If possible remove the air filter box and wash it and the motorcycle THOROUGHLY with water and let the AF box aside to dry. Start assessing visually for any any loose wires, nicks and flood related damages, especially the radiator fan, as flooded mud can get cemented and can cause overheating of the engine, so make sure the fan area is thoroughly washed.

Refill spark plug and coolant after a thorough system flush/bleeding, visually inspecting the area behind the radiator for any mud cementation on the fan. Now, after double checking wiring, install the battery with proper charge.

IMPORTANT PROCEDURE
================

The engine, should not be fired up with a fresh injection of new oil. Purchase two liters of mineral oil Shell AX3, pour it inside the engine, with the spark plug removed pour a cap full of oil inside the spark plug hole, crank the engine a few times, three to four times. Now, install the spark plug, crank the engine, and let it idle for a five minutes.

Now, drain the oil and NOW fill her up with your choice of fresh recommended grade engine oil.

You'd be happy to have her back!

Do keep your observations posted.

Ride again! Power to the State of Kerala. Bless you fellas.

Cheers!
VJ

I remember seeing a post on Teambhp where a user mentioned that the ZMA front pad is a fit for the CBR, if that's the case then you'd also be able to use the front brake pad from RTR. In which case you can get both front and rear pads changed at around 500~600/- total.

Can't thank you enough dear brothers for your esteemed help. My bike will be opened up this week I guess if it'll go the resurrection way. The insurance agent still assures me about the nil depreciation add-on saying that it has been extended for 5 years now(previously 3yrs), which means I get all repairs covered excepting consumables,nuts ,bolts, washers etc plus 1000 rs towards some compulsory deductible. I feel so much assured as of now.
Anyways I have a small concern regarding the radiator and it's fan. Even if we clean them inside out, the radiator pipes may have a chance to corrode and leak in the future. Am worried about the fan bearing(not sure if it's a bush) if the corrosion would start there also. So I plan to replace them.
Should I replace the catcon and all sensors?
All this because of not the water alone, but the slimy deposit that came along and sat upto 2 inches inside my home. Don't want this accumulated dried deposit to block the catcon and/or foul the sensors and give rise to erroneous readings.. how do I know if the sensors,even though working, but are not giving erroneous values?? I believe Honda asc should have the test values,if not m stuck.
Have the similar concern to replace the bracket with pin bearings that supports the bottom side of the rear shock absorber.

Rgds

the pad size are the same but the notch is different hence does not fit.

HMSI Authorized spare distributor (GP road or Royapettai) is helpless too? Does he entertain walkin customer like you or me?

Radia
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you can get bosch brake pads for non abs cbr
https://www.flybhp.com/bosch-f-002-h...-set-of-2.html

Is there an alternative for the brake pads for cbr 250r abs,or I will have to go with the honda one's,just asking as those are on a bit expensive side.2100rs for front and 1300rs for rear.

You have EBC and you have stock NISSIN pads. The stock pads are semi-sintered and are best when it comes to affordable buy. The ABS CBR 250 just brakes with one finger and it's a such a beautiful unit coupled with an ABS that almost works as silently as its radiator fan. I'd suggest you stick with stock NISSIN ABS pads for effective and budget friendly setup.

Cheers!
VJ

Asked the guys in Kun Honda - they said the sales are only through authorized service centers and we can't get any part in Royapettah or something.